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#1
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That nut-grass won't die
It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? |
#2
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On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 00:58:43 GMT in Arrest Spam wrote:
It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? Mulch. Seriously. Replace the lawn with large swatches of mulch and interesting plants and your nutgrass problem will be history. -- Chris Dukes Suspicion breeds confidence -- Brazil |
#3
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You need a herbicide that specifically targets nutgrass. The Ortho product
and Round-up will not do the trick in my experience. Basagran T/O is such a product and I have used it in my flower beds. It is labled for over-the-top spraying of many perennials such as daylilies. However, it takes several applications and it burns the desirable plants. I have recently switched to Manage. After the first application less than a week ago, I can already see the nutgrass dying. However, killing the foliage is easy. You must kill the nuts that are growing on the root tips. Manage will do this. You will probably need to be aggressive with your spraying because there is probably a good supply of young nuts in the ground that will continue to emerge. You will probably want to spray every three weeks during next year's growing season. Manage is labled to kill nutgrass in turfgrasses so it should be fine to spray on your entire lawn. You will be better off purchasing the 1 1/2 ounce bottle instead of the 0.9 gram size. Here is a current ebay auction that has it for sale for $165.00. However, you should be able to find it for around $120.00 from regular chemical supplier. The lowest price I have heard of is $90.00. Bobby Baxter http://happymoosegardens.com |
#4
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You are too nice to it spammer.. Rhizome type plants are very very hard to kill becuase the plant stores energy in its roots so if you kill the top off the plant just sends up new tops, bamboo is like this, the key is to shrink the support system of the plant. You have to do the following First pull up what you can 1 - spray the plant DO NOT mow let the plant absorb the herbicide 2 - when the top dies back mow it 3- Let the plant grow some again - not above the grass line - this is also key 4 - repeat If you let the plant get too tall then the root system will also be growing as well so you want to prevent that as well You need to exhaust the supply of energy in the roots of the plant - you need to let the herbicide be absorbed into the plant. You may need to do this for 2-3 months Next year use a quality pre-emergent remember to only spray on days where you think it will not rain. Ortho nut-grass is fine - you just need to keep spraying the plant - one application will never be enough. Tomatolord "Arrest Spam" wrote in message .. . It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? |
#5
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No offense to TomotoLord, but I totally disagree with his statement to
"first pull what you can". All this is going to do is make the situation worse for you. I have posted a picture on my domain at http://daylily.net/ebay/nutgrass.gif that shows you the basic plant structure of nutgrass. If you pull the emerged shoot then in most instances the main "nut" for that shoot will remain in the soil. But even worse, you will be ripping it free from the very thin tuborous roots that all the new nuts are growing on. All these nuts that are left behind will then mature and start sending up shoots and will develop even more elaborate tuborous systems and more nuts. If you spray the emerged shoots without pulling the nutgrass grass, then the chemical will find its why to the entire root system and will kill those young nuts. Pulling nutgrass will only make the situation worse in the long run. The sooner you start addressing the situation properly, the sooner you will resolve your problem, and the less money you will spend. As far as mowing the nutgrass... it is advised to not cut it two days before spraying and two days after spraying with Manage. Bobby Baxter http://thegardensite.com |
#6
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Bobby - I have to disagree The key is to weaken the root structure that it sending up leaves. If you remove the energy producing portion of the plant (the green top part) then the roots will have to send up new shoots, which will greatly weaken the root system. Spray the new shoots which will quickly absorb the hebicide. Tomatolord "Happy Moose" wrote in message om... No offense to TomotoLord, but I totally disagree with his statement to "first pull what you can". All this is going to do is make the situation worse for you. I have posted a picture on my domain at http://daylily.net/ebay/nutgrass.gif that shows you the basic plant structure of nutgrass. If you pull the emerged shoot then in most instances the main "nut" for that shoot will remain in the soil. But even worse, you will be ripping it free from the very thin tuborous roots that all the new nuts are growing on. All these nuts that are left behind will then mature and start sending up shoots and will develop even more elaborate tuborous systems and more nuts. If you spray the emerged shoots without pulling the nutgrass grass, then the chemical will find its why to the entire root system and will kill those young nuts. Pulling nutgrass will only make the situation worse in the long run. The sooner you start addressing the situation properly, the sooner you will resolve your problem, and the less money you will spend. As far as mowing the nutgrass... it is advised to not cut it two days before spraying and two days after spraying with Manage. Bobby Baxter http://thegardensite.com |
#7
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If you really want to control the problem, till the entire affected area &
apply an appropriate soil fumigant or steam. That's probably the only realistic100% method of control. Be learly of using sod in the area, as that is a primary vector of purple & yellow nutsedge in my experience. -- Baine "Arrest Spam" wrote in message .. . It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? |
#8
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Our neighbor brought in some topsoil and did the yard and made some beds and
it all is filled with nutgrass tomatolord "Baine Carruthers" wrote in message ... If you really want to control the problem, till the entire affected area & apply an appropriate soil fumigant or steam. That's probably the only realistic100% method of control. Be learly of using sod in the area, as that is a primary vector of purple & yellow nutsedge in my experience. -- Baine "Arrest Spam" wrote in message .. . It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? |
#9
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Some helpful pages
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7432.html http://threeissues.sdsu.edu/three_is...lofacts02.html Arrest Spam wrote: It has been a real struggle trying to get rid of nut-grass in our fescue lawn. Last year we used Round-up and re-seeded thereafter. The nut-grass has come back with vengeance. This year we have treated the lawn with Ortho Nut-grass and Crabgrass killer. No luck. The nut-grass is growing like mad. We even got down on our knees and tried to dig them out as deep as possible. This method will take us another month and a lot of blisters. Is there hope? Any suggestions? |
#10
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Quote:
Nutsedge Management Guidelines--UC IPM |
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