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#1
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crown rot
A phal with dying leaves turned out to have crown rot, even though I
was sure that it wasn't. Even spraying with Physan 20 didn't stop the rot. Now I have a pot with lots of healthy roots but no leaves. Is there any way to save the plant and have it grow more leaves, or should I just admit failure and move on? (I don't know why people call these "beginners' orchids"--I keep killing them, but my catts and dendrobiums do just fine.) |
#2
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crown rot
Hang in there Cady!
Crown rot seems to occur when water gets into the crown and foster bacteria. I've also seen it when the young leaf is forming and damage occurs to that leaf. The leaf dies and rots out the entire crown. Maybe it was bug damage or just rough handling....who knows for sure. You have to decide at this point how much the plant is worth to you. Some Phals will send out a new lead from a domant bud. It will be a couple of years before the plant fully recovers if the plant does this. If the plant was a generic phal you purchased to enjoy the blooms then I'd say dump it and start over. If it was a gift from a child who saved pennies to buy it for dear aunt Cady then you will do anything to keep it alive. I'd say about 90% of the phals that get crown rot never make it back to blooming again. The ones I've had recover usually had a healthy leaf left to nurish the plant until the new growth get large enough to survive. Some Phals are very prone to crown rot. I've killed a dozen Phal amablis species over the years. I finally put one in a hanging basket hung on end to keep the water from building up in the crown. Phals are beginner plants but we have to keep it challenging. This is what keeps us separate from the African Violet growers! Good Growing, Gene wrote in message t... A phal with dying leaves turned out to have crown rot, even though I was sure that it wasn't. Even spraying with Physan 20 didn't stop the rot. Now I have a pot with lots of healthy roots but no leaves. Is there any way to save the plant and have it grow more leaves, or should I just admit failure and move on? (I don't know why people call these "beginners' orchids"--I keep killing them, but my catts and dendrobiums do just fine.) |
#3
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crown rot
"Gene Schurg" writes:
You have to decide at this point how much the plant is worth to you. Some Phals will send out a new lead from a domant bud. It will be a couple of years before the plant fully recovers if the plant does this. I'd say about 90% of the phals that get crown rot never make it back to blooming again. The ones I've had recover usually had a healthy leaf left Does this apply to other orchids as well, or does it go just for phals? Geir |
#4
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crown rot
Thanks for the advice! This was an unknown cross that I bought at my
local nursery, so I guess I will just say goodbye, even though I hate to give up on anything that looks halfway alive. I'll give phals one last try and buy a replacement--which I will immediately put into PrimeAgra so I don't kill it by over-watering it or over-head watering it. Carter and Holmes has some nice phal crosses--and some nice species. The mini catts that I've bought from them are as tough as nails, so maybe their phals are too. In article k.net, "Gene Schurg" wrote: Hang in there Cady! Crown rot seems to occur when water gets into the crown and foster bacteria. I've also seen it when the young leaf is forming and damage occurs to that leaf. The leaf dies and rots out the entire crown. Maybe it was bug damage or just rough handling....who knows for sure. You have to decide at this point how much the plant is worth to you. Some Phals will send out a new lead from a domant bud. It will be a couple of years before the plant fully recovers if the plant does this. If the plant was a generic phal you purchased to enjoy the blooms then I'd say dump it and start over. If it was a gift from a child who saved pennies to buy it for dear aunt Cady then you will do anything to keep it alive. I'd say about 90% of the phals that get crown rot never make it back to blooming again. The ones I've had recover usually had a healthy leaf left to nurish the plant until the new growth get large enough to survive. Some Phals are very prone to crown rot. I've killed a dozen Phal amablis species over the years. I finally put one in a hanging basket hung on end to keep the water from building up in the crown. Phals are beginner plants but we have to keep it challenging. This is what keeps us separate from the African Violet growers! Good Growing, Gene wrote in message t... A phal with dying leaves turned out to have crown rot, even though I was sure that it wasn't. Even spraying with Physan 20 didn't stop the rot. Now I have a pot with lots of healthy roots but no leaves. Is there any way to save the plant and have it grow more leaves, or should I just admit failure and move on? (I don't know why people call these "beginners' orchids"--I keep killing them, but my catts and dendrobiums do just fine.) |
#5
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crown rot
Geir and Cady,
With any orchids that are sick you have to make a decision about the value of bringing it back to a quality plant. Most of them grow so slowly under healthy conditions so a sick plant has double the work to get back to health. During the recovery period there are many opportunities for the plant to just give up and your work is lost. For me there has to be something more than just the challenge to bring it back. Perhaps its the original cost or the person who gave it to me that gives it value beyond just the plant. Cady, I think part of your problem may be the local nursury. If they don't specialize in orchids or are at least knowledgable about orchids they may be setting you up for failure. I see them abuse plants at the big nursuries around northern Virginia. These people put the plants out for sale and let the cold wind blow in and dry out the roots and flowers. They over price the plant to begin with and after they abuse it they think they are doing you a favor by marking it down by 50%. I know of one place I visit all the time that sells plants for about 3 times the price of professional growers. Most of them have no tags because they feel the tags confuse people. I think they want to protect the consumer from going to the source to get more plants. They get upset with me when I tell them that the out of bloom no name phal that they mark down to $30 is worth maybe $5 if it's in good shape. They just let them dry out and rot on the bench before they throw them out. Get your plants from one of the reputable growers and I expect that you will have better success. Good Growing, Gene |
#6
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crown rot
I've had good luck with Phals, but I've read that you can minimize
crown rot problems if you support pots in a semi-horizontal position, or even mount the plants on bark. Tom From: Organization: AT&T Broadband Newsgroups: rec.gardens.orchids Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:43:23 GMT Subject: crown rot Thanks for the advice! This was an unknown cross that I bought at my local nursery, so I guess I will just say goodbye, even though I hate to give up on anything that looks halfway alive. I'll give phals one last try and buy a replacement--which I will immediately put into PrimeAgra so I don't kill it by over-watering it or over-head watering it. Carter and Holmes has some nice phal crosses--and some nice species. The mini catts that I've bought from them are as tough as nails, so maybe their phals are too. In article k.net, "Gene Schurg" wrote: Hang in there Cady! Crown rot seems to occur when water gets into the crown and foster bacteria. I've also seen it when the young leaf is forming and damage occurs to that leaf. The leaf dies and rots out the entire crown. Maybe it was bug damage or just rough handling....who knows for sure. You have to decide at this point how much the plant is worth to you. Some Phals will send out a new lead from a domant bud. It will be a couple of years before the plant fully recovers if the plant does this. If the plant was a generic phal you purchased to enjoy the blooms then I'd say dump it and start over. If it was a gift from a child who saved pennies to buy it for dear aunt Cady then you will do anything to keep it alive. I'd say about 90% of the phals that get crown rot never make it back to blooming again. The ones I've had recover usually had a healthy leaf left to nurish the plant until the new growth get large enough to survive. Some Phals are very prone to crown rot. I've killed a dozen Phal amablis species over the years. I finally put one in a hanging basket hung on end to keep the water from building up in the crown. Phals are beginner plants but we have to keep it challenging. This is what keeps us separate from the African Violet growers! Good Growing, Gene wrote in message t... A phal with dying leaves turned out to have crown rot, even though I was sure that it wasn't. Even spraying with Physan 20 didn't stop the rot. Now I have a pot with lots of healthy roots but no leaves. Is there any way to save the plant and have it grow more leaves, or should I just admit failure and move on? (I don't know why people call these "beginners' orchids"--I keep killing them, but my catts and dendrobiums do just fine.) |
#7
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crown rot
I have a gigantea hybrid growing in an eight-inch basket hung sideways. It
still provides a decent medium-holding arrangement while totally avoiding rot. -- Ray Barkalow First Rays Orchids http://www.firstrays.com Secure Online Ordering & Lots of Free Info! "tom bell" wrote in message ... I've had good luck with Phals, but I've read that you can minimize crown rot problems if you support pots in a semi-horizontal position, or even mount the plants on bark. Tom From: Organization: AT&T Broadband Newsgroups: rec.gardens.orchids Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 15:43:23 GMT Subject: crown rot Thanks for the advice! This was an unknown cross that I bought at my local nursery, so I guess I will just say goodbye, even though I hate to give up on anything that looks halfway alive. I'll give phals one last try and buy a replacement--which I will immediately put into PrimeAgra so I don't kill it by over-watering it or over-head watering it. Carter and Holmes has some nice phal crosses--and some nice species. The mini catts that I've bought from them are as tough as nails, so maybe their phals are too. In article k.net, "Gene Schurg" wrote: Hang in there Cady! Crown rot seems to occur when water gets into the crown and foster bacteria. I've also seen it when the young leaf is forming and damage occurs to that leaf. The leaf dies and rots out the entire crown. Maybe it was bug damage or just rough handling....who knows for sure. You have to decide at this point how much the plant is worth to you. Some Phals will send out a new lead from a domant bud. It will be a couple of years before the plant fully recovers if the plant does this. If the plant was a generic phal you purchased to enjoy the blooms then I'd say dump it and start over. If it was a gift from a child who saved pennies to buy it for dear aunt Cady then you will do anything to keep it alive. I'd say about 90% of the phals that get crown rot never make it back to blooming again. The ones I've had recover usually had a healthy leaf left to nurish the plant until the new growth get large enough to survive. Some Phals are very prone to crown rot. I've killed a dozen Phal amablis species over the years. I finally put one in a hanging basket hung on end to keep the water from building up in the crown. Phals are beginner plants but we have to keep it challenging. This is what keeps us separate from the African Violet growers! Good Growing, Gene wrote in message t... A phal with dying leaves turned out to have crown rot, even though I was sure that it wasn't. Even spraying with Physan 20 didn't stop the rot. Now I have a pot with lots of healthy roots but no leaves. Is there any way to save the plant and have it grow more leaves, or should I just admit failure and move on? (I don't know why people call these "beginners' orchids"--I keep killing them, but my catts and dendrobiums do just fine.) |
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