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#1
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Pterostylis culture
Well, I've taken the plunge and acquired a colony of hybrid Pterostylis
orchids. It should arrive within the next few days, so I am soliciting advice on their culture. I have a fine book on cultivating Australian orchids, but I am eager to know any hints or tips on how to get these orchids to perform well in the Northern Hemisphere. I used to raise Pter. nutans, but it is so long since I had them, I've forgotten exactly how I grew them. Any advice is welcome, at least in regards to the Pterostylis. J. Del Col |
#2
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Pterostylis culture
Jadel wrote:
Well, I've taken the plunge and acquired a colony of hybrid Pterostylis orchids. It should arrive within the next few days, so I am soliciting advice on their culture. I have a fine book on cultivating Australian orchids, but I am eager to know any hints or tips on how to get these orchids to perform well in the Northern Hemisphere. I used to raise Pter. nutans, but it is so long since I had them, I've forgotten exactly how I grew them. Any advice is welcome, at least in regards to the Pterostylis. J. Del Col Colony forming Pterostylis are usually the easiest of the Australian temperate terrestrials to grow. Most of the hybrids available have been bred with ease of culture in mind so they tend to be very forgiving. I found the best approach to growing any temperate terrestrial orchid was to stop thinking about them as an orchid and learn their requirements from scratch. Culturally they have more in common with perenial bulbs like tulips and hyacinths than Catts and Phal's. They're mild temperate plants. I don't know where you live or grow your orchids but they do require definite hot/cool seasons for best growth. Check out the following website for suitable temperature range info: http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/forms/...imagemap.shtml If you stick to the capital cities with latitudes lower than about mid-New South Wales for the most suitable climates. My plants experience temperatures down to 0oC on winter nights. It might be worth posting your question to the Terrestrial Orchid Forum. There's quite a few non-Australians over there having success with Australian terrestrials. You might want to see how they're doing it. http://terrorchid.proboards27.com/ Here's a rundown of what works for me: About 50% shade is suitable. Too little light and the leaves start to point upwards, too much light may cause the emerging leaves to burn and in spring the plant may go dormant early. Watering is something you'll have to learn to judge for yourself. Water so that the mix is damp but not wet for any prolonged period during the growing period. As the plants go dormant hold back on the water. In Summer the pots should be kept dry, with a very light watering on very hot days to stop the tubers dehydrating. By very light I mean that the water shouldn't penetrate more than a few mm into the mix. If the temperature is above ~30oC, moisture around the tubers can cause them to rot. Begin watering carefully in autumn/fall or when the new shoots emerge which ever is earlier. Start watering normally when the danger of hot days is over. They don't need a particularly humid environment. There are various mixes that are suitable. The mix needs to be free draining but maintain sufficient moisture to stay damp/moist. Including a bit of organic matter is usually recommended. You can probably get away with a commercial potting mix mixed with sand or perlite and maybe a bit of leaf mould (something fibrous so it doesn't compact too much). I deflask pterostylis into a 50% perlite:50% potting mix (recommended by Melbourne Zoo) but I can't comment on how they'll go in this mix long term. Nesbitts Orchids recommends 45% loam, 50% course sand and 5% peat moss + a small amount of blood'n'bone in their culture notes. Last I heard Les Nesbitt had moved on from using this mix but it's still suitable for Pterostylis and other Australian genera. The mix I use is designed as a general Australian terrestrial mix so it's probably more complicated than you need for your Pterostylis hybrids. Unless you want to grow and have access to the more finicky species, eg Diuris, Thelymitra, Caladenia etc, I don't know whether it will be worth your effort sourcing the appropriate material for the sake one pot of Pterostylis. FYI the mix I use is the one recommended by ANOS Victoria: 2 parts ~2 - 5mm sand, 1 part loam, 1 part eucalypt leaf mould, 1 part wood shavings/eucamulch + a small mount of blood'n'bone. Whatever the mix a top dressing (~5-10mm) of casuarina leaves, pine needles or small pebbles (eg the above sand or 7mm pebbles) is recommended to lift the leaves off the mix to avoid them rotting. Regular fertilising is usually not necessary, especially where the mix includes blood'n'bone and/or organic matter. Some growers have uses weak applications with success. Pests: Snails, slugs and caterpillars are the main ones. Aphids can attack the flower stem. Fungus gnats like the mix but I haven't determined how much of a problem they are. I usually don't have a problem with anything else. Viruses are occassionally a problem in Asutralia but I don't know whether the viruses that attack Pterostylis are the same as those that infect the average cultivated exotic. I hope I haven't made you want to get a refund on your plants. My cultural conditions are biased by the fact that I grow number of Australian terrestrials and I need to have conditions set up to suit both easy and harder species. Invariably there will be people who grow a pot of Ptst. curta amongst their epiphytes and will tell you to grow your greenhoods in cheap potting mix next to your Cymbidiums and forget about them. By all means take their advice. If your plants can take the abuse and still grow, flower and multiply it's usually less work to give it to them. Andrew |
#3
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Pterostylis culture
Thanks very much. Your info should prove very helpful. J. Del Col |
#4
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Pterostylis culture
I forgot to mention that I live in Philippi, West Virginia, USDA Zone 6, (more or less). The plants in question are coming from Washington state. J. Del Col |
#5
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Pterostylis culture
Jadel Wrote:
I forgot to mention that I live in Philippi, West Virginia, USDA Zone 6, (more or less). The plants in question are coming from Washington state. So long as you can provide the cool temperatures during the winter you should be OK (aim at providing ~USDA zone 9-10 seasonal temperatures). As I mentioned, Check out the Terrestrial Forum. There are a lot of forum members from the colder parts of North America/Europe who grow Pterostylis. They'd be better suited to telling you how to grow them outside their normal climate range as opposed to someone slap bang in the middle of where they live naturally. Andrew |
#6
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Pterostylis culture
Andrew wrote: Jadel Wrote: I forgot to mention that I live in Philippi, West Virginia, USDA Zone 6, (more or less). The plants in question are coming from Washington state. So long as you can provide the cool temperatures during the winter you should be OK (aim at providing ~USDA zone 9-10 seasonal temperatures). As I mentioned, Check out the Terrestrial Forum. ... I have and am now registered with it. Thanks for providing the link. J. Dle Col |
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