Bacteria & Physan
 

I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

IIRC, I use 2 tsp./gallon, but Ray is the expert on this stuff. I believe
that the frequency is weekly. Hope it works for you. I lost a ton of Phals
last year, and it started just like you describe. In my case, it was pythium
(sp).

At that time, I asked for advice here, and the recommendation was Cleary's
3336, followed weekly by Phyton. My problem had begun to spread to the
Vandas, and the Cleary's stopped it in its tracks, so I'm a believer.

Diana

"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

No, he's not.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Diana Kulaga" wrote in message
. ..
IIRC, I use 2 tsp./gallon, but Ray is the expert on this stuff. I believe
that the frequency is weekly. Hope it works for you. I lost a ton of Phals
last year, and it started just like you describe. In my case, it was
pythium (sp).

At that time, I asked for advice here, and the recommendation was Cleary's
3336, followed weekly by Phyton. My problem had begun to spread to the
Vandas, and the Cleary's stopped it in its tracks, so I'm a believer.

Diana

"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Actually, the 1 tsp/gal is intended as the treatment dose for killing algae.
For regular use - and even in a case like yours - I'd follow the
manufacturer's directions:

SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar. Soak
compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep hands and
tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings once per month
as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is evident.
Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once per
month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - DIVIDING PLANTS
Remove compost from plant, then soak plant for 2-5 minutes in PHYSAN 20
solution. Operate with wet hands and cutting tools. After division and root
trim, soak divisions in PHYSAN 20 solution for 2-5 minutes. Pot in compost
dampened with PHYSAN 20 solution.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand
for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to a
lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces again
with PHYSAN 20 solution.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20
solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead algae.
Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will
inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat
application if algae growth returns.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - BOTRYTIS*
During cool damp weather, spray plants, flowers and under benches at first
sign of the spotting on flowers. Normally weekly spray will greatly reduce
or eliminate the botrytis spotting.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 3 gallons of water.

CUT FLOWERS
For containers, tubes and decorative vases. Recommend flower spikes be
hardened in PHYSAN 20 treated water during harvesting, storage and shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per 2 gallons of water.

ORCHID - ROT (such as Erwinia)*
Remove compost from plant, then soak entire plant 10 minutes or more. Cut
away all rot with treated tool. Soak plant wounds again for 10 minutes.
Repot in PHYSAN 20 soaked compost.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - CROWN ROT (Phalaenopsis)*
Spray plants weekly to assure solution getting around and in base of leaves.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Gene,

There is no telling whether your problem is the same as what I experienced.
But I'll tell you what it looked like.

It varied. Some of the Phals developed a thin, bright yellow line around the
edges of the leaves. Shortly after that, they started to turn yellow in some
cases, black in others. Some leaves turned bright yellow and retained a
green edge. All turned to mush eventually, a sure sign of bacterial rot. A
few plants had pitted spots on top and bottom of the leaves. In my case, I
think (and it's only a semi-educated guess) that I had a spider mite
infestation and that the damage from those allowed bacteria to permeate the
plants.

This all happened in a nanosecond. One day the plants looked fine, and the
next - literally - they were sick. I was fortunate and scored a little bit
of Ridamil, but it was too late. The stems were rotted. In retrospect, had I
tossed the plants that looked bad initially, I would have lost less. But who
knew? I'd never seen anything like it, and though I got excellent advice
here, no one was really sure what it was.

I don't mean to alarm you. But I do think that it would be prudent to get
those plants away from all others asap.

Diana



"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Gene - that's per 20 gallons

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

From the Physan website:

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.



2 tsp/gallon (I think you saw the PHYSAN 20 and were a bit dyslexic)

Gene





In article FYSYj.2268$aJ1.1273@trndny03,
"Ray B" wrote:

Gene - that's per 20 gallons

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

When I first saw that I also thought "20 gallons?".

Diana

"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
From the Physan website:

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.



2 tsp/gallon (I think you saw the PHYSAN 20 and were a bit dyslexic)

Gene





In article FYSYj.2268$aJ1.1273@trndny03,
"Ray B" wrote:

Gene - that's per 20 gallons

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without
any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Yep.. Dyslexia it must be! ('cause I haven't started drinking yet today)

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
From the Physan website:

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.



2 tsp/gallon (I think you saw the PHYSAN 20 and were a bit dyslexic)

Gene





In article FYSYj.2268$aJ1.1273@trndny03,
"Ray B" wrote:

Gene - that's per 20 gallons

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without
any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

hanks for this Ray, yes I have been using it at 1Tablespoon per gallon.s
What I am wondering is if once you have made up a solution, can you save any
that is over?
I keep a spray bottle of it in each g/h & one out in the yard.
Cheers Wendy
"Ray B" wrote in message
news:YoHYj.1038$5H5.766@trndny02...
Actually, the 1 tsp/gal is intended as the treatment dose for killing
algae. For regular use - and even in a case like yours - I'd follow the
manufacturer's directions:

SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar. Soak
compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep hands and
tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings once per
month as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is evident.
Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - DIVIDING PLANTS
Remove compost from plant, then soak plant for 2-5 minutes in PHYSAN 20
solution. Operate with wet hands and cutting tools. After division and
root trim, soak divisions in PHYSAN 20 solution for 2-5 minutes. Pot in
compost dampened with PHYSAN 20 solution.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let
stand for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to
a lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces
again with PHYSAN 20 solution.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20
solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead
algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product
will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and
repeat application if algae growth returns.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - BOTRYTIS*
During cool damp weather, spray plants, flowers and under benches at first
sign of the spotting on flowers. Normally weekly spray will greatly reduce
or eliminate the botrytis spotting.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 3 gallons of water.

CUT FLOWERS
For containers, tubes and decorative vases. Recommend flower spikes be
hardened in PHYSAN 20 treated water during harvesting, storage and
shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per 2 gallons of water.

ORCHID - ROT (such as Erwinia)*
Remove compost from plant, then soak entire plant 10 minutes or more. Cut
away all rot with treated tool. Soak plant wounds again for 10 minutes.
Repot in PHYSAN 20 soaked compost.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - CROWN ROT (Phalaenopsis)*
Spray plants weekly to assure solution getting around and in base of
leaves.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

I don't see why not.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Wendy7" wrote in message
...
hanks for this Ray, yes I have been using it at 1Tablespoon per gallon.s
What I am wondering is if once you have made up a solution, can you save
any that is over?
I keep a spray bottle of it in each g/h & one out in the yard.
Cheers Wendy
"Ray B" wrote in message
news:YoHYj.1038$5H5.766@trndny02...
Actually, the 1 tsp/gal is intended as the treatment dose for killing
algae. For regular use - and even in a case like yours - I'd follow the
manufacturer's directions:

SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar.
Soak compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep
hands and tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings
once per month as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is
evident.
Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - DIVIDING PLANTS
Remove compost from plant, then soak plant for 2-5 minutes in PHYSAN 20
solution. Operate with wet hands and cutting tools. After division and
root trim, soak divisions in PHYSAN 20 solution for 2-5 minutes. Pot in
compost dampened with PHYSAN 20 solution.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let
stand for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to
a lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces
again with PHYSAN 20 solution.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20
solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead
algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This
product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on
surface, and repeat application if algae growth returns.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - BOTRYTIS*
During cool damp weather, spray plants, flowers and under benches at
first sign of the spotting on flowers. Normally weekly spray will greatly
reduce or eliminate the botrytis spotting.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 3 gallons of water.

CUT FLOWERS
For containers, tubes and decorative vases. Recommend flower spikes be
hardened in PHYSAN 20 treated water during harvesting, storage and
shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per 2 gallons of water.

ORCHID - ROT (such as Erwinia)*
Remove compost from plant, then soak entire plant 10 minutes or more. Cut
away all rot with treated tool. Soak plant wounds again for 10 minutes.
Repot in PHYSAN 20 soaked compost.
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

ORCHIDS - CROWN ROT (Phalaenopsis)*
Spray plants weekly to assure solution getting around and in base of
leaves.
USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
I am a bad bad gardener.

My phals look like the teenage kid working at the local greasy spoon
restaurant. They have plant acne.

Actually, I noticed that the phals (and the dendrochilum) had been hit
with something that caused pitted spots on the tops of the leaves. Some
of the plants have interesting designs where the leaves were infected.
I believe it to be contact related because a few leaves that were turned
upside down had the problem on the bottom surface of the leaf.

The Cattleyas, Oncids, Cymbos, and other stuff seem to be unaffected.
This crud really likes those nice succulent Phal leaves.

My suspected sources a

The swamp cooler that I did not change the pads like I should and
something bloomed on those nice moist aspen wood pads then got sucked
into the greenhouse. I promise to keep a closer eye on the swamp cooler
from now one. I promise (unless of course I get busy with something
else and put it off until another day like I normally do).

Another possibility is that when I cleaned the greenhouse with the
pressure washer something that normally would be on the concrete floor
got into the air and settled on the leaves. The floor of a greenhouse
is one of the dirtiest places on earth.

The third suspect was the bucket I use to mix fertilizer for the
Dosamatic. I may (ok I used to take shortcuts) not have cleaned it up
very well before I used it between waterings and something was growing
in the cesspool of old fertilizer.

So, here is my question. I want to start a regular spraying of Physan,
specially on the phals. I see where Ray recommends 1 tsp to a gallon
for plant contact.

How often can I apply Physan to the plant leaves at this rate?

What would I see if I am applying it too often? (Leaves burning, flowers
deformed, etc.)

Any other ideas of what I should do to prevent this crud from returning?

I am fanatical about cleaning up the dropped flowers and dead leaves in
my greenhouse. I keep the humidity very high in the winter and as a
result I get algae and moss growing under the benches and on the glass.
I clean it up periodically but it does return.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Sun's over the yard arm Ray!

Diana

"Ray B" wrote in message
news:FA_Yj.6683$bG1.653@trndny04...
Yep.. Dyslexia it must be! ('cause I haven't started drinking yet today)

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
From the Physan website:

ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once
per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is
evident.
Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.



2 tsp/gallon (I think you saw the PHYSAN 20 and were a bit dyslexic)

Gene





In article FYSYj.2268$aJ1.1273@trndny03,
"Ray B" wrote:

Gene - that's per 20 gallons

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!


"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Ray & Diana,

Yes, Ray you are the expert in our eyes when you know more or have
more
access to the info I need. I will increase the dosage to 2 tsp/gal.
Thanks for the info.

Diana, does this start as a green getting lighter on the top of the
leaves to turning black. Some of the species (gigantea, violacea) the
area turned a bright yellow. New leaves seem to be emerging without
any
problem.

I'll look up Clearys since I've never used it.

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

Next question....

I ordered a quart of Cleary's and it's coming to me.

What are the rule for using this and Physan? Should I space the
applications? How far apart?

Thanks,
Gene

Bacteria & Physan
 

What the group here told me to do:

Cleary's first. Then, Phyton (you are using Physan) weekly. Cleary's again
the fourth week. So, one Cleary's, 3 Physan or Phyton, back to Cleary's.
Though it didn't save most of our Phals, it did save the rest of the
collection, definitely.

Diana

"Gene Schurg" wrote in message
...
Next question....

I ordered a quart of Cleary's and it's coming to me.

What are the rule for using this and Physan? Should I space the
applications? How far apart?

Thanks,
Gene