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profpam 24-09-2003 05:14 AM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
Jeff,

I just love the blooms that the Stanhopia produces, and I have several
grown in wire baskets with greater than 12" leaf-spans. Leaves are not
real dark green are provided cattleya light. But, only once have I had
a bloom on them despite the fact that they appear to be getting ample
light -- tips sometimes will get sunburned; so, in this respect I'm in
the same boat as Shell.

.. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System
http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html


Wendy wrote:

Yes Jeff, whatever you are doing, don't change a thing. I think my Stans are
in dire need
of a change of sphagnum moss.
Cheers Wendy
"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a
very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including
the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it

in
a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown
steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest
pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this
morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any

indication,
your wait may not be so long.

Jeff

"Shell91" wrote in message
y.com...
I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some
reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to

be
to
flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tegory=42 218
&rd=1

This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant?

Shell






nanook 24-09-2003 06:04 AM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the
earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when
fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have
the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before
the other ones!
Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big
enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside.
Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine
and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I
have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I
have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms
with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and
about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and
grows with no visable leaf burn.
Good Greenery
NOOK



On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino"
wrote:

haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the
triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very different
conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the
same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net pot.
You think it could spike at that size?

I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I
might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the
winter...unless it would like a chill.

I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like a
good idea for a tight space.

"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Hi Diane,
I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant in

an
enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which I
have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the

section
where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading
effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which
supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near
Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @ 1/2
tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at

every
watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary.
Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the entire
basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the
plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the

medium
appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum moss
(that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the
medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I

began
using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the winter,
the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F.

Good luck,

Jeff

"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
t...
Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever

your
doing I need to try it
"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02

for
a
very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not

including
the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed

it
in
a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown
steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest
pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this
morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any
indication,
your wait may not be so long.

Jeff

"Shell91" wrote in message
y.com...
I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing

some
reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has

to
be
to
flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old?





http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tegory=42 218
&rd=1

This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant?

Shell












Diane M. 24-09-2003 02:22 PM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2 right
now and I know there are several varieties.

Diane


"nanook" wrote in message
...
From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the
earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when
fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have
the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before
the other ones!
Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big
enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside.
Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine
and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I
have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I
have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms
with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and
about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and
grows with no visable leaf burn.
Good Greenery
NOOK



On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino"
wrote:

haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the
triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very

different
conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the
same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net

pot.
You think it could spike at that size?

I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I
might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the
winter...unless it would like a chill.

I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like

a
good idea for a tight space.

"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Hi Diane,
I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant

in
an
enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which

I
have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the

section
where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading
effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which
supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near
Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @

1/2
tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at

every
watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary.
Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the

entire
basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the
plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the

medium
appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum

moss
(that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the
medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I

began
using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the

winter,
the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F.

Good luck,

Jeff

"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
t...
Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever

your
doing I need to try it
"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02

for
a
very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not
including
the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I

placed
it
in
a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has

grown
steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The

largest
pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike

this
morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any
indication,
your wait may not be so long.

Jeff

"Shell91" wrote in message
y.com...
I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been

doing
some
reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant

has
to
be
to
flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old?






http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=42 21

8
&rd=1

This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant?

Shell














nanook 24-09-2003 05:12 PM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
I sell them, give them away, but mostly I hoard them for myself. Right
now I have eight or so baskets of Costarricesis that are big enough to
sell, but I think all of them are allready spoken for. If they don't
all go in the next few months I'll give you first crack at one since
you asked. I have some more of those that are alot younger. I won't
let them go untill sometime next year. I will be dividing a
Gigantia(or Grandflora) in the spring. That one should make about five
good plants. All the other kinds are a good year and a half to two
years away before I'll let them go. (I only like to sell once they
are very established and good size)
I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a
division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/
It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!!


NOOK
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:17:37 GMT, "Diane M."
wrote:

hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2 right
now and I know there are several varieties.

Diane


"nanook" wrote in message
.. .
From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the
earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when
fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have
the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before
the other ones!
Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big
enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside.
Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine
and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I
have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I
have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms
with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and
about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and
grows with no visable leaf burn.
Good Greenery
NOOK



On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino"
wrote:

haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the
triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very

different
conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the
same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net

pot.
You think it could spike at that size?

I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I
might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the
winter...unless it would like a chill.

I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like

a
good idea for a tight space.

"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Hi Diane,
I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant

in
an
enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which

I
have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the
section
where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading
effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which
supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near
Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @

1/2
tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at
every
watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary.
Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the

entire
basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the
plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the
medium
appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum

moss
(that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the
medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I
began
using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the

winter,
the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F.

Good luck,

Jeff

"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
t...
Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever
your
doing I need to try it
"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02
for
a
very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not
including
the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I

placed
it
in
a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has

grown
steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The

largest
pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike

this
morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any
indication,
your wait may not be so long.

Jeff

"Shell91" wrote in message
y.com...
I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been

doing
some
reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant

has
to
be
to
flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old?






http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=42 21

8
&rd=1

This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant?

Shell














Ted Byers 24-09-2003 07:32 PM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 

"nanook" wrote in message
...
[snip]
I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a
division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/
It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!!


You don't have to worry about me! That seems like a lot to pay for
something which has flowers that last only a few days. :-) If the flowers
lasted a few weeks, and the plant is impressive, it would be a different
story.

But they do have quite a few catts that appeal to me. Have you done
business with them before? Do you have any information on their quality of
plants and service?

Cheers,

Ted



nanook 24-09-2003 08:42 PM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
I have not purchased any from them yet. I have seen plants that came
from them and they were well worth the money. I have been thinkin
about gettin me some of those mini catts. They are so bright and
chearfull.
I live just a few miles away from them and will be gowing there when
they start letting us in by appointment. Also I will probably go to
the green growers visit if I am back in town by then. I will give you
a run down after I check it out.
nanook




On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:07:53 -0400, "Ted Byers"
wrote:


"nanook" wrote in message
.. .
[snip]
I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a
division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/
It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!!


You don't have to worry about me! That seems like a lot to pay for
something which has flowers that last only a few days. :-) If the flowers
lasted a few weeks, and the plant is impressive, it would be a different
story.

But they do have quite a few catts that appeal to me. Have you done
business with them before? Do you have any information on their quality of
plants and service?

Cheers,

Ted



Diane M. 25-09-2003 02:02 AM

Stanhopia Oculata Question
 
Sounds good, I buy them, gladly take orphans, accept Christmas gifts etc. In
a few years I'll happily trade when my collection starts multiplying.

Shared plants have a special spot on the shelf!

Diane
"nanook" wrote in message
...
I sell them, give them away, but mostly I hoard them for myself. Right
now I have eight or so baskets of Costarricesis that are big enough to
sell, but I think all of them are allready spoken for. If they don't
all go in the next few months I'll give you first crack at one since
you asked. I have some more of those that are alot younger. I won't
let them go untill sometime next year. I will be dividing a
Gigantia(or Grandflora) in the spring. That one should make about five
good plants. All the other kinds are a good year and a half to two
years away before I'll let them go. (I only like to sell once they
are very established and good size)
I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a
division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/
It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!!


NOOK
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:17:37 GMT, "Diane M."
wrote:

hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2

right
now and I know there are several varieties.

Diane


"nanook" wrote in message
.. .
From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the
earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when
fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have
the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before
the other ones!
Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big
enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside.
Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine
and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I
have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I
have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms
with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and
about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and
grows with no visable leaf burn.
Good Greenery
NOOK



On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino"
wrote:

haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but

"the
triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very

different
conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have

the
same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net

pot.
You think it could spike at that size?

I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside-

I
might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the
winter...unless it would like a chill.

I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked

like
a
good idea for a tight space.

"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
thlink.net...
Hi Diane,
I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the

plant
in
an
enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate,

which
I
have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the
section
where structural members give a little more of an intermittent

shading
effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage,

which
supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near
Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20

@
1/2
tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer

at
every
watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been

necessary.
Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the

entire
basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist

the
plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the
medium
appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum

moss
(that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of

the
medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off,

I
began
using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the

winter,
the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F.

Good luck,

Jeff

"Diane Mancino" wrote in message
t...
Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what

ever
your
doing I need to try it
"P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message
hlink.net...
I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in

5/02
for
a
very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not
including
the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I

placed
it
in
a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has

grown
steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The

largest
pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike

this
morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any
indication,
your wait may not be so long.

Jeff

"Shell91" wrote in message
y.com...
I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been

doing
some
reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a

plant
has
to
be
to
flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old?







http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=42 2

1
8
&rd=1

This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant?

Shell

















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