|
Stanhopia Oculata Question
Jeff,
I just love the blooms that the Stanhopia produces, and I have several grown in wire baskets with greater than 12" leaf-spans. Leaves are not real dark green are provided cattleya light. But, only once have I had a bloom on them despite the fact that they appear to be getting ample light -- tips sometimes will get sunburned; so, in this respect I'm in the same boat as Shell. .. . . Pam Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html Wendy wrote: Yes Jeff, whatever you are doing, don't change a thing. I think my Stans are in dire need of a change of sphagnum moss. Cheers Wendy "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message hlink.net... I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it in a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any indication, your wait may not be so long. Jeff "Shell91" wrote in message y.com... I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to be to flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tegory=42 218 &rd=1 This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant? Shell |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the
earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before the other ones! Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside. Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and grows with no visable leaf burn. Good Greenery NOOK On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino" wrote: haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very different conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net pot. You think it could spike at that size? I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the winter...unless it would like a chill. I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like a good idea for a tight space. "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message thlink.net... Hi Diane, I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant in an enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which I have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the section where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @ 1/2 tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at every watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary. Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the entire basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the medium appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum moss (that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I began using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the winter, the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F. Good luck, Jeff "Diane Mancino" wrote in message t... Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever your doing I need to try it "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message hlink.net... I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it in a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any indication, your wait may not be so long. Jeff "Shell91" wrote in message y.com... I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to be to flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tegory=42 218 &rd=1 This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant? Shell |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2 right
now and I know there are several varieties. Diane "nanook" wrote in message ... From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before the other ones! Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside. Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and grows with no visable leaf burn. Good Greenery NOOK On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino" wrote: haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very different conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net pot. You think it could spike at that size? I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the winter...unless it would like a chill. I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like a good idea for a tight space. "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message thlink.net... Hi Diane, I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant in an enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which I have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the section where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @ 1/2 tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at every watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary. Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the entire basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the medium appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum moss (that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I began using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the winter, the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F. Good luck, Jeff "Diane Mancino" wrote in message t... Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever your doing I need to try it "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message hlink.net... I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it in a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any indication, your wait may not be so long. Jeff "Shell91" wrote in message y.com... I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to be to flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=42 21 8 &rd=1 This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant? Shell |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
I sell them, give them away, but mostly I hoard them for myself. Right
now I have eight or so baskets of Costarricesis that are big enough to sell, but I think all of them are allready spoken for. If they don't all go in the next few months I'll give you first crack at one since you asked. I have some more of those that are alot younger. I won't let them go untill sometime next year. I will be dividing a Gigantia(or Grandflora) in the spring. That one should make about five good plants. All the other kinds are a good year and a half to two years away before I'll let them go. (I only like to sell once they are very established and good size) I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/ It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!! NOOK On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:17:37 GMT, "Diane M." wrote: hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2 right now and I know there are several varieties. Diane "nanook" wrote in message .. . From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before the other ones! Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside. Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and grows with no visable leaf burn. Good Greenery NOOK On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino" wrote: haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very different conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net pot. You think it could spike at that size? I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the winter...unless it would like a chill. I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like a good idea for a tight space. "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message thlink.net... Hi Diane, I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant in an enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which I have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the section where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @ 1/2 tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at every watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary. Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the entire basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the medium appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum moss (that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I began using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the winter, the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F. Good luck, Jeff "Diane Mancino" wrote in message t... Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever your doing I need to try it "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message hlink.net... I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it in a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any indication, your wait may not be so long. Jeff "Shell91" wrote in message y.com... I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to be to flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=42 21 8 &rd=1 This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant? Shell |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
"nanook" wrote in message ... [snip] I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/ It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!! You don't have to worry about me! That seems like a lot to pay for something which has flowers that last only a few days. :-) If the flowers lasted a few weeks, and the plant is impressive, it would be a different story. But they do have quite a few catts that appeal to me. Have you done business with them before? Do you have any information on their quality of plants and service? Cheers, Ted |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
I have not purchased any from them yet. I have seen plants that came
from them and they were well worth the money. I have been thinkin about gettin me some of those mini catts. They are so bright and chearfull. I live just a few miles away from them and will be gowing there when they start letting us in by appointment. Also I will probably go to the green growers visit if I am back in town by then. I will give you a run down after I check it out. nanook On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:07:53 -0400, "Ted Byers" wrote: "nanook" wrote in message .. . [snip] I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/ It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!! You don't have to worry about me! That seems like a lot to pay for something which has flowers that last only a few days. :-) If the flowers lasted a few weeks, and the plant is impressive, it would be a different story. But they do have quite a few catts that appeal to me. Have you done business with them before? Do you have any information on their quality of plants and service? Cheers, Ted |
Stanhopia Oculata Question
Sounds good, I buy them, gladly take orphans, accept Christmas gifts etc. In
a few years I'll happily trade when my collection starts multiplying. Shared plants have a special spot on the shelf! Diane "nanook" wrote in message ... I sell them, give them away, but mostly I hoard them for myself. Right now I have eight or so baskets of Costarricesis that are big enough to sell, but I think all of them are allready spoken for. If they don't all go in the next few months I'll give you first crack at one since you asked. I have some more of those that are alot younger. I won't let them go untill sometime next year. I will be dividing a Gigantia(or Grandflora) in the spring. That one should make about five good plants. All the other kinds are a good year and a half to two years away before I'll let them go. (I only like to sell once they are very established and good size) I don't know if I should post this, cause I think I may want a division of this one myself: http://www.greenleaforchids.com/ It's 100 bucks but it sure is a nice plant!! NOOK On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:17:37 GMT, "Diane M." wrote: hi Nook, Are you selling Stans?- I might be interested. I only have 2 right now and I know there are several varieties. Diane "nanook" wrote in message .. . From the looks of those plants, it will be next year probably at the earliest before they bloom. They can sneak up on you and flower when fairly small. I grow lots and lots of Stans from flask. You can have the seedling from the same flask and some will flower a year before the other ones! Jeffs setup is very close to how I grow and fert. once they are big enough. except I hang the baskets under the eves on my deck outside. Inside I used to keep them in the back shaded by large vannilla vine and other Vanda baskets blocking alot of the light. In recent years I have moved them more to the front and they do better and better. I have a large 12" basket hanging by the door of one of my grow rooms with nothing shading it (it is about 5' away from a 400 watt MH and about 4' away from a 400 watt MH and a 400 watt HPS,) and it grows and grows with no visable leaf burn. Good Greenery NOOK On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:16:53 GMT, "Diane Mancino" wrote: haha, Jeff I'm reading this at 2am (heartburn), I got everything but "the triple-wall polycarbonate". Sounds like it's in a greenhouse. Very different conditions here in New England, but stanhopeas are grown here. I have the same seedling that Shell has- These only have 4 -6 leaves in a 3" net pot. You think it could spike at that size? I agree with adding more light, mine perked up when I put it outside- I might need to conceder a grow light since I've put mine inside for the winter...unless it would like a chill. I saw a halogen plant light at Wal-Mart- anyone use halogens? Looked like a good idea for a tight space. "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message thlink.net... Hi Diane, I am in humid central North Carolina, and have been growing the plant in an enclosure under a single layer of gray triple-wall polycarbonate, which I have found cuts out about 50% of the ambient light. It is up in the section where structural members give a little more of an intermittent shading effect. At any rate, I have observed no burning of the foliage, which supports the notion that they can tolerate and may prosper in a near Cattleya-like light regime. In R.O. water, I use Grow More 20-10-20 @ 1/2 tsp gal during spring, bumping it up to 1 tsp/gal during the summer at every watering about once a week. No adjustments of pH have been necessary. Between watering/fertilizing events, which consist of dunking the entire basket into a reservoir of the fertilizer solution, I heavily mist the plants w/ R.O. water once a day in the morning if the surface of the medium appears dry. This has encouraged the proliferation of live sphagnum moss (that probably came with the seedling) over most of the surface of the medium. Several weeks ago, when the ambient temperatures backed off, I began using Grow More 6-30-30 (Bloom Formula) @ 1/2 tsp/gal. During the winter, the minimum temperature in the enclosure is about 57-58 F. Good luck, Jeff "Diane Mancino" wrote in message t... Hi Jeff, what conditions are you growing in, feeding etc. - what ever your doing I need to try it "P.J. Bloodworth" wrote in message hlink.net... I obtained a small Stanhopea oculata seedling from Oak Hill in 5/02 for a very reasonable $4.00. At that time, the longest leaf blade, not including the petiole, was 5" atop a pseudobulb about 1/2" in diameter. I placed it in a 10" wire basket in pure sphagnum moss. Since that time, it has grown steadily longer leaves (5", 7", 6",11") on a single lead. The largest pseudobulb is now 1" in diameter. To my amazement, I saw a spike this morning protruding from the bottom of the basket! If this is any indication, your wait may not be so long. Jeff "Shell91" wrote in message y.com... I have just gotten a Stanhopia oculata on eBay. I have been doing some reearch on the web but I can't find anything on how old a plant has to be to flower. Is it like most and needs to be several years old? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=42 2 1 8 &rd=1 This is the page for the auction. Any opinions on the plant? Shell |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:17 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
GardenBanter