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Charles Peters 16-11-2003 09:12 PM

No Spikes???
 
I'm kind of new to all this, but have about 20 orchids, mostly onc's
and phals. I've grown them outside in the summer (Baltimore, MD) and
wintered them in my basement under HID lights ( 250 HPS in the Fall, MH
in the Spring, cycling from 14 hours in October to 12 in December) with
flours to supplement. Fertilize with Dyna Grow 1/4 tsp. every
watering. But very poor results to date. Good root growth, many in
semi-hydro, but no spikes so far this year. I'm wondering if the drop in
temperature in the basement, 55-60 F at night, might be inhibiting
blooming. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Charles


J Fortuna 17-11-2003 12:22 AM

No Spikes???
 
Charles,
I'm also kind of new myself, having only 9 orchids (Phals and Dtps only),
but at least two of mine are re-spiking for the second time this year, so I
must be doing some things right. That said, if someone more expert than me
replies, please listen to them instead.

-- It is my understanding that for most Phals at least a temp drop to 55-60F
at night is actually desired to initiate spiking, so I don't think that is
the problem.
-- I may be wrong on this, but a 1/4 of a teaspoon of fertilizer with every
watering seems like a lot to me. How much do you dilute it? My understanding
is that sometimes orchids will not spike if they are overfed. I used to
overfeed mine the first year I had them, and they did not reflower then.
-- Another thing I have read recently (while lurking here on rdo) is that
Phals require at least 12 hours of darkness at night during the winter. I
don't know how essential that is to spiking -- I suspect that mine get less
than 12 hours -- but you might consider reducing the hours of light.
-- Also how close/far from the lights are the plants?
-- How long have you had these orchids? If it has only been a year or so, I
believe, it is not unusual for orchids to not rebloom the following year
after they have changed environments and are still getting aclimated,
especially if the place you got them from was very different from yours.
-- Finally have any of these plants rebloomed for you since you got them? I
have heard that some plants will just not rebloom for some people. If they
won't respike for you after several years, consider threats, move them
closer to the garbage, or give them away to friends for whom they will of
course spike immediately just to spite you.

Best,
Joanna

"Charles Peters" wrote in message
...
I'm kind of new to all this, but have about 20 orchids, mostly onc's
and phals. I've grown them outside in the summer (Baltimore, MD) and
wintered them in my basement under HID lights ( 250 HPS in the Fall, MH
in the Spring, cycling from 14 hours in October to 12 in December) with
flours to supplement. Fertilize with Dyna Grow 1/4 tsp. every
watering. But very poor results to date. Good root growth, many in
semi-hydro, but no spikes so far this year. I'm wondering if the drop in
temperature in the basement, 55-60 F at night, might be inhibiting
blooming. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Charles




J Fortuna 17-11-2003 01:02 AM

No Spikes???
 
One correction: When you say temperature drop to 55-60F, do you mean night
temperature drop only, or does it stay that way during the day time as well?
If it's that cold in the day, I think the temp might be the problem after
all.

(I would greatly appreciate comments/corrections from more expert members of
the group, since I am definitely not an expert yet, emerging from lurker
status, and I feel just a bit insecure :-)

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
Charles,
I'm also kind of new myself, having only 9 orchids (Phals and Dtps only),
but at least two of mine are re-spiking for the second time this year, so

I
must be doing some things right. That said, if someone more expert than me
replies, please listen to them instead.

-- It is my understanding that for most Phals at least a temp drop to

55-60F
at night is actually desired to initiate spiking, so I don't think that is
the problem.
-- I may be wrong on this, but a 1/4 of a teaspoon of fertilizer with

every
watering seems like a lot to me. How much do you dilute it? My

understanding
is that sometimes orchids will not spike if they are overfed. I used to
overfeed mine the first year I had them, and they did not reflower then.
-- Another thing I have read recently (while lurking here on rdo) is that
Phals require at least 12 hours of darkness at night during the winter. I
don't know how essential that is to spiking -- I suspect that mine get

less
than 12 hours -- but you might consider reducing the hours of light.
-- Also how close/far from the lights are the plants?
-- How long have you had these orchids? If it has only been a year or so,

I
believe, it is not unusual for orchids to not rebloom the following year
after they have changed environments and are still getting aclimated,
especially if the place you got them from was very different from yours.
-- Finally have any of these plants rebloomed for you since you got them?

I
have heard that some plants will just not rebloom for some people. If they
won't respike for you after several years, consider threats, move them
closer to the garbage, or give them away to friends for whom they will of
course spike immediately just to spite you.

Best,
Joanna

"Charles Peters" wrote in message
...
I'm kind of new to all this, but have about 20 orchids, mostly onc's
and phals. I've grown them outside in the summer (Baltimore, MD) and
wintered them in my basement under HID lights ( 250 HPS in the Fall, MH
in the Spring, cycling from 14 hours in October to 12 in December) with
flours to supplement. Fertilize with Dyna Grow 1/4 tsp. every
watering. But very poor results to date. Good root growth, many in
semi-hydro, but no spikes so far this year. I'm wondering if the drop in
temperature in the basement, 55-60 F at night, might be inhibiting
blooming. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Charles






Ray 17-11-2003 02:22 AM

No Spikes???
 
The key to phal spike initiation is the day-night temperature difference,
not so much the absolute minimum. It needs to be in the 10°-15° range.

1/4 tsp fertilizer/gallon is probably OK.

Phals - as far as I know - are not influenced by day length.

I concur with the question about distance from the lights, as energy
absorption is a factor of both time and intensity.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
Charles,
I'm also kind of new myself, having only 9 orchids (Phals and Dtps only),
but at least two of mine are re-spiking for the second time this year, so

I
must be doing some things right. That said, if someone more expert than me
replies, please listen to them instead.

-- It is my understanding that for most Phals at least a temp drop to

55-60F
at night is actually desired to initiate spiking, so I don't think that is
the problem.
-- I may be wrong on this, but a 1/4 of a teaspoon of fertilizer with

every
watering seems like a lot to me. How much do you dilute it? My

understanding
is that sometimes orchids will not spike if they are overfed. I used to
overfeed mine the first year I had them, and they did not reflower then.
-- Another thing I have read recently (while lurking here on rdo) is that
Phals require at least 12 hours of darkness at night during the winter. I
don't know how essential that is to spiking -- I suspect that mine get

less
than 12 hours -- but you might consider reducing the hours of light.
-- Also how close/far from the lights are the plants?
-- How long have you had these orchids? If it has only been a year or so,

I
believe, it is not unusual for orchids to not rebloom the following year
after they have changed environments and are still getting aclimated,
especially if the place you got them from was very different from yours.
-- Finally have any of these plants rebloomed for you since you got them?

I
have heard that some plants will just not rebloom for some people. If they
won't respike for you after several years, consider threats, move them
closer to the garbage, or give them away to friends for whom they will of
course spike immediately just to spite you.

Best,
Joanna

"Charles Peters" wrote in message
...
I'm kind of new to all this, but have about 20 orchids, mostly onc's
and phals. I've grown them outside in the summer (Baltimore, MD) and
wintered them in my basement under HID lights ( 250 HPS in the Fall, MH
in the Spring, cycling from 14 hours in October to 12 in December) with
flours to supplement. Fertilize with Dyna Grow 1/4 tsp. every
watering. But very poor results to date. Good root growth, many in
semi-hydro, but no spikes so far this year. I'm wondering if the drop in
temperature in the basement, 55-60 F at night, might be inhibiting
blooming. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Charles






Susan Erickson 17-11-2003 05:42 AM

No Spikes???
 
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 21:18:01 -0500, "Ray"
wrote:

The key to phal spike initiation is the day-night temperature difference,
not so much the absolute minimum. It needs to be in the 10°-15° range.

1/4 tsp fertilizer/gallon is probably OK.

Phals - as far as I know - are not influenced by day length.

I concur with the question about distance from the lights, as energy
absorption is a factor of both time and intensity.


I think Joanna is correct. I have seen something suggesting that
Phals with more than 12 hours of light grow slower and are not as
apt to spike as those held to 12 hours. I definitely would cut
the lights to 12 hrs. I also don't remember the type of light
your using. If it is fluorescent you need the lights very close
to the plants. If one of the high intensity lamps, the distance
is greater.

I would try Joanna's suggestion. Cut the fertilizer out
entirely. It will be a shock if nothing else, although I agree
with Ray, that should not be enough to bother the plants.

Generally - Note this is a general rule. Orchids with deep green
foliage and growing lush looking plants means you are not giving
them enough light. With summer outdoors you should be able to
bloom in the basement. I have done it with the old bulbs and
just 4 tubs to a shelf.

How long have you been bloomless? One year or 5? For one year,
it is a disappointment, but not completely unexpected. 5 it is
something else.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

dkar 18-11-2003 03:12 AM

No Spikes???
 
Just to add a completely worthless comment...
I've neglected my orchids (30 or so) more this year than any other year and
I have more in spike now than ever (9).
I think you can over pamper them. That, or they're just happier to see me
less ;)




"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 21:18:01 -0500, "Ray"
wrote:

The key to phal spike initiation is the day-night temperature difference,
not so much the absolute minimum. It needs to be in the 10°-15° range.

1/4 tsp fertilizer/gallon is probably OK.

Phals - as far as I know - are not influenced by day length.

I concur with the question about distance from the lights, as energy
absorption is a factor of both time and intensity.


I think Joanna is correct. I have seen something suggesting that
Phals with more than 12 hours of light grow slower and are not as
apt to spike as those held to 12 hours. I definitely would cut
the lights to 12 hrs. I also don't remember the type of light
your using. If it is fluorescent you need the lights very close
to the plants. If one of the high intensity lamps, the distance
is greater.

I would try Joanna's suggestion. Cut the fertilizer out
entirely. It will be a shock if nothing else, although I agree
with Ray, that should not be enough to bother the plants.

Generally - Note this is a general rule. Orchids with deep green
foliage and growing lush looking plants means you are not giving
them enough light. With summer outdoors you should be able to
bloom in the basement. I have done it with the old bulbs and
just 4 tubs to a shelf.

How long have you been bloomless? One year or 5? For one year,
it is a disappointment, but not completely unexpected. 5 it is
something else.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php





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