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Old 14-04-2004, 05:02 PM
Dada
 
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Default PHYSAN

Is physan safe for phal seedlings growing in moss? i have had some damping
off problems. Currently i am not watering the plants and letting the moss
dry back. However i was wondering if i could drench it with physan as a
prophylactic measure

thanks

Dada.


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Old 15-04-2004, 12:03 AM
Diana Kulaga
 
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IMO, Physan is wonderful. I have used it on seedlings with no ill effects.

Diana


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Old 15-04-2004, 11:32 PM
V_coerulea
 
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Default PHYSAN

I deflask seedlings onto a plastic plate loaded with as much Physan as it
will hold. The seedlings are basically floating or semi-submerged in Physan
until I pot into compots or pot individually. After being potted or
compotted, I spray with Dithane. I alternate sprays of the 2 chemicals every
3 days or so for a couple of weeks and get little or no dieoff.
Gary

"Dada" wrote in message
. ..
Is physan safe for phal seedlings growing in moss? i have had some damping
off problems. Currently i am not watering the plants and letting the moss
dry back. However i was wondering if i could drench it with physan as a
prophylactic measure

thanks

Dada.




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Old 16-04-2004, 03:32 AM
Dave
 
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Default PHYSAN

Keep it off of blooms, it damages them. Voice of experience.

"Dada" wrote in message
. ..
Is physan safe for phal seedlings growing in moss? i have had some damping
off problems. Currently i am not watering the plants and letting the moss
dry back. However i was wondering if i could drench it with physan as a
prophylactic measure

thanks

Dada.





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Old 17-04-2004, 07:43 PM
Rob Halgren
 
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V_coerulea wrote:

I deflask seedlings onto a plastic plate loaded with as much Physan as it
will hold. The seedlings are basically floating or semi-submerged in Physan
until I pot into compots or pot individually. After being potted or
compotted, I spray with Dithane. I alternate sprays of the 2 chemicals every
3 days or so for a couple of weeks and get little or no dieoff.
Gary




I've never gotten a satisfactory explanation on why it is necessary
to soak sterile (deflasked) seedlings in physan... People do it all the
time, but what do they think they are killing? I don't ever treat my
deflasked seedlings with anything and they do just fine. Heck, I don't
even remove the agar, most times, and have never seen anything nasty
grow in a pot. Besides, most people can't buy dithane, AFAK. If I do
lose a few seedlings, I chalk those up to the 'crappy hard to grow'
category. In the past, I used to spend more time trying to keep
everything alive, but when I did that, there were always two or three
that just kind of sat there and refused to grow. Those are the two or
three I lose by not spraying, as far as I can tell.

I don't think there is a residual effect with physan (somebody can
correct me if I'm wrong). Dithane does have a residual effect, so I
guess I can see why that works. I suspect that every few days is
overkill, and the reason you may not be getting any dieoff is because
you are paying a lot of attention to your compots. Try the experiment
with spraying every three days with distilled water, see if there is a
difference. Be diligent though, the experiment only works if you use
the water just like the fungicides. Try it with something cheap though,
just in case I'm an idiot. In my conditions, it would work though...

Just something to keep me busy whilst I fight with the township about my
greenhouse. Anybody hear of a 50' rear setback requirement before?

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit


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Old 17-04-2004, 07:43 PM
Bob Walsh
 
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Rob,

Seems harsh for a Township requirement, though maybe not for the primary
structure on a property.

Wouldn't surprise me for a restrictive covenant though,but the twp.
shouldn't be enforcing those.

Bob

"Rob Halgren" wrote in message
...
V_coerulea wrote:

I deflask seedlings onto a plastic plate loaded with as much Physan as it
will hold. The seedlings are basically floating or semi-submerged in

Physan
until I pot into compots or pot individually. After being potted or
compotted, I spray with Dithane. I alternate sprays of the 2 chemicals

every
3 days or so for a couple of weeks and get little or no dieoff.
Gary




I've never gotten a satisfactory explanation on why it is necessary
to soak sterile (deflasked) seedlings in physan... People do it all the
time, but what do they think they are killing? I don't ever treat my
deflasked seedlings with anything and they do just fine. Heck, I don't
even remove the agar, most times, and have never seen anything nasty
grow in a pot. Besides, most people can't buy dithane, AFAK. If I do
lose a few seedlings, I chalk those up to the 'crappy hard to grow'
category. In the past, I used to spend more time trying to keep
everything alive, but when I did that, there were always two or three
that just kind of sat there and refused to grow. Those are the two or
three I lose by not spraying, as far as I can tell.

I don't think there is a residual effect with physan (somebody can
correct me if I'm wrong). Dithane does have a residual effect, so I
guess I can see why that works. I suspect that every few days is
overkill, and the reason you may not be getting any dieoff is because
you are paying a lot of attention to your compots. Try the experiment
with spraying every three days with distilled water, see if there is a
difference. Be diligent though, the experiment only works if you use
the water just like the fungicides. Try it with something cheap though,
just in case I'm an idiot. In my conditions, it would work though...

Just something to keep me busy whilst I fight with the township about my
greenhouse. Anybody hear of a 50' rear setback requirement before?

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit



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Old 17-04-2004, 07:44 PM
Rob Halgren
 
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Bob Walsh wrote:

Rob,

Seems harsh for a Township requirement, though maybe not for the primary
structure on a property.



Not the primary structure, and I have a pole barn that is already
impinging on that 50' 'barrier' (at 45' from the property line). If I
have to keep 50 feet from the back line, and 55 feet from the front line
(road easement), that doesn't leave much buildable land on a wide lot.
Basically takes away 25% of my property.


Wouldn't surprise me for a restrictive covenant though,but the twp.
shouldn't be enforcing those.


Not where I live. Residential agricultural, no covenants. I'd
really hate to spoil the view that the 30 horses in my back neighbor's
property have of my barn... I have to get an actual copy of the zoning
requirements to see if I'm just getting fed bad information. I wouldn't
doubt it. I've heard a different story every time I go in there.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
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Old 17-04-2004, 07:44 PM
Susan Erickson
 
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On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 10:55:20 -0400, Rob Halgren
wrote:

Bob Walsh wrote:

Rob,

Seems harsh for a Township requirement, though maybe not for the primary
structure on a property.


Are you sure it is not a utility easement area? We have had that
sometimes. Then you have to sign a waver that you will
remover/uproot any impeding planting or structure IF the utility
company needs access. It kept us from planting a Lilac hedge
near the back fence.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php
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Old 17-04-2004, 07:44 PM
Rob Halgren
 
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Default PHYSAN

Susan Erickson wrote:

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 10:55:20 -0400, Rob Halgren
wrote:



Bob Walsh wrote:



Rob,

Seems harsh for a Township requirement, though maybe not for the primary
structure on a property.



Are you sure it is not a utility easement area? We have had that
sometimes. Then you have to sign a waver that you will
remover/uproot any impeding planting or structure IF the utility
company needs access. It kept us from planting a Lilac hedge
near the back fence.



No, not there, anyway. If it is, the office guy wouldn't know about
it. He didn't even ask where I lived, exactly. I don't know why you
couldn't put in a hedge anyway, if the utility needs access, chainsaw it
down. Lilacs grow fast.... Forsythia might work too. I keep hacking
mine down to the ground in hopes of killing them, and they keep coming
back (and blooming beautifully) the next year. Quite a tap root on a
forsythia bush...

I got lucky and they routed a gas pipeline about a mile to the east
of me. They were originally going to run it through my yard, I think.
That was before I bought the property, obviously I wouldn't have
purchased it if there had been a gas line running through it. Now that
is something you don't want to hit with the backhoe by accident...

Rob

--

Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
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Old 17-04-2004, 07:45 PM
K Barrett
 
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" Susan Erickson wrote:
Then you have to sign a waver that you will
remover/uproot any impeding planting or structure IF the utility
company needs access. It kept us from planting a Lilac hedge
near the back fence.


Rob Halgren" wrote ...

I don't know why you
couldn't put in a hedge anyway, if the utility needs access, chainsaw it
down.


That's what people do here. They go ahead and landscape their yards as they
see fit, with the understanding that if the cable companies need to trash
their yards in order to pull fiberoptic cable, then so be it. I suppose the
second person buying the property may be set up for a rude awakening,
disclosure being the joke that it is, but heck. Plants grow back. Fences can
be mended.

K Barrett


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