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Old 18-05-2004, 10:08 PM
Alison
 
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Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

Hi,
I have a blc/pot cross which I got as a seedling, which has finally
reached blooming size. The last 2 shoots to mature, had something in
the centre that looked like it was going to develop into a spike, but
before it got to be more than a little knob, it stopped growing &
turned brown at the tip. They looked dried out but I did not change
the watering, and had read somewhere that you should actually cut back
on watering when the shoot matures, & move it to a cooler place -- but
if it's drying out with normal watering that doesn't sound like a good
idea. It lives on a south windowsill with a sheer curtain.
Also I have a beallara which was supposed to be blooming size
according to the vendor, but didn't bloom on the last shoot. It's now
growing another.
And, for that matter, I just remembered the ascocentrum which bloomed
2 years ago & has not done so again. Nothing has changed in its
growing conditions. Same place, same watering habits.
I do have orchid fertilizer which is supposed to encourage blooming.
Is there something more I should be doing with these, to coax them to
bloom?
Suggestions appreciated; thanks

Alison
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Old 18-05-2004, 11:07 PM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"Alison" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
I have a blc/pot cross which I got as a seedling, which has finally
reached blooming size.


Maybe not. Some of these have to get rather big in order to come to
blooming size. Do you know the cross?

The last 2 shoots to mature, had something in
the centre that looked like it was going to develop into a spike, but
before it got to be more than a little knob, it stopped growing &
turned brown at the tip. They looked dried out but I did not change
the watering, and had read somewhere that you should actually cut back
on watering when the shoot matures, & move it to a cooler place -- but
if it's drying out with normal watering that doesn't sound like a good
idea. It lives on a south windowsill with a sheer curtain.


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough. Or a draft, or
fluctuating temps/ambient humidity with weather variation. Hard to say.
And hard to control on a windowsill.

The idea behind a cooler place WITH A POTINARA is to take advantage of the
deeper color the sophronitis gives to the flower. I wouldn't necessartily
do so with all flowers.

Also I have a beallara which was supposed to be blooming size
according to the vendor, but didn't bloom on the last shoot. It's now
growing another.
And, for that matter, I just remembered the ascocentrum which bloomed
2 years ago & has not done so again. Nothing has changed in its
growing conditions. Same place, same watering habits.
I do have orchid fertilizer which is supposed to encourage blooming.
Is there something more I should be doing with these, to coax them to
bloom?
Suggestions appreciated; thanks


How about being sure they are getting at least a 10 F diurnal fluctuation in
temps?

K Barrett


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Old 19-05-2004, 04:04 PM
Reka
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

Also, maybe if you tell us what you *do* get to bloom alongside these, we
could tell what your conditions are like.
--
Reka

This is LIFE! It's not a rehearsal. Don't miss it!
http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html

"K Barrett" schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:Inuqc.21168$gr.1719296@attbi_s52...
"Alison" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
I have a blc/pot cross which I got as a seedling, which has finally
reached blooming size.


Maybe not. Some of these have to get rather big in order to come to
blooming size. Do you know the cross?

The last 2 shoots to mature, had something in
the centre that looked like it was going to develop into a spike, but
before it got to be more than a little knob, it stopped growing &
turned brown at the tip. They looked dried out but I did not change
the watering, and had read somewhere that you should actually cut back
on watering when the shoot matures, & move it to a cooler place -- but
if it's drying out with normal watering that doesn't sound like a good
idea. It lives on a south windowsill with a sheer curtain.


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough. Or a draft, or
fluctuating temps/ambient humidity with weather variation. Hard to say.
And hard to control on a windowsill.

The idea behind a cooler place WITH A POTINARA is to take advantage of the
deeper color the sophronitis gives to the flower. I wouldn't necessartily
do so with all flowers.

Also I have a beallara which was supposed to be blooming size
according to the vendor, but didn't bloom on the last shoot. It's now
growing another.
And, for that matter, I just remembered the ascocentrum which bloomed
2 years ago & has not done so again. Nothing has changed in its
growing conditions. Same place, same watering habits.
I do have orchid fertilizer which is supposed to encourage blooming.
Is there something more I should be doing with these, to coax them to
bloom?
Suggestions appreciated; thanks


How about being sure they are getting at least a 10 F diurnal fluctuation

in
temps?

K Barrett




---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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Old 29-05-2004, 04:09 AM
Alison
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"K Barrett" wrote
Do you know the cross?

It's a Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x Blc. Jeremy Island
"Carmela".


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough.


Do you mean, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit? I
have no experience with this variety & am a beginner anyway, so I'm
not too clear how blooming "works" with them.

Alison
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Old 29-05-2004, 04:10 AM
Alison
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"Reka" wrote in message ...
Also, maybe if you tell us what you *do* get to bloom alongside these, we
could tell what your conditions are like.
--
Reka


I have a miniature phalaenopsis which is quite happy beside them.
It's a south window with sheer curtain; day temps 70-85F, night 60-70.

Alison


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Old 29-05-2004, 06:11 PM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"Alison" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote
Do you know the cross?

It's a Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x Blc. Jeremy Island
"Carmela".


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough.


Do you mean, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit? I
have no experience with this variety & am a beginner anyway, so I'm
not too clear how blooming "works" with them.

Alison


Hey! I have something similar! Mine's Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x
Blc. Wendy's Valentine from Carmela. If I undrestand the notes I put on the
tag I last repotted it in 9/03 and I probably had it 2 yrs before that, so
mine's probably 4-5 yrs old. Mine finally bloomed for me last year, a small
red flower.

Yes, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit. Catts will do that
when they approach flowering size, so next season could be the trick! Or
maybe later this season, since I can't recall whether mine bloomed in fall
or spring.

Nevertheless, your pollen parent Jeremy Island is a much larger plant than
mine's Wendy's Valentine. I'd expect yours to need to get to a decent
pseudobulb size (6-8 inches tall, maybe?) before flowering.

IIRC your culture conditions sounded OK, like it should bloom for you under
your conditions... but I can't recall exactly. As with anything else, opt
to push it into slightly brighter light or light thats available for more
hours in a day (Which I think you had)

Keep the faith

K Barrett


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Old 31-05-2004, 08:06 PM
Alison
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"K Barrett" wrote in message news:1t2uc.18652$Ly.13240@attbi_s01...
"Alison" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote
Do you know the cross?

It's a Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x Blc. Jeremy Island
"Carmela".


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough.


Do you mean, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit? I
have no experience with this variety & am a beginner anyway, so I'm
not too clear how blooming "works" with them.

Alison


Hey! I have something similar! Mine's Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x
Blc. Wendy's Valentine from Carmela. If I undrestand the notes I put on the
tag I last repotted it in 9/03 and I probably had it 2 yrs before that, so
mine's probably 4-5 yrs old. Mine finally bloomed for me last year, a small
red flower.

Yes, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit. Catts will do that
when they approach flowering size, so next season could be the trick! Or
maybe later this season, since I can't recall whether mine bloomed in fall
or spring.

Nevertheless, your pollen parent Jeremy Island is a much larger plant than
mine's Wendy's Valentine. I'd expect yours to need to get to a decent
pseudobulb size (6-8 inches tall, maybe?) before flowering.

IIRC your culture conditions sounded OK, like it should bloom for you under
your conditions... but I can't recall exactly. As with anything else, opt
to push it into slightly brighter light or light thats available for more
hours in a day (Which I think you had)

Keep the faith

K Barrett


Our plants are cousins I think mine must be at least 6; I've had
it 4 years & it was a decent seedling size when I got it. The last
shoot is at least 8" tall, & that was one of the ones that fizzled.
It's got 2 more coming. Don't suppose you recall, if you did anything
in particular with yours before it bloomed, like more or less water?
The only thing I could do light wise is to move it onto the really hot
unshaded south kitchen windowsill, from the bedroom south windowsill
with the sheer curtain. It's pretty hot & bright there too.
Thanks for the tips. It's nice to know they abort spikes normally;
maybe it wasn't my fault

Alison
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Old 31-05-2004, 09:05 PM
K Barrett
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to get these orchids to bloom?

"Alison" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote in message

news:1t2uc.18652$Ly.13240@attbi_s01...
"Alison" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote
Do you know the cross?

It's a Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano Queen" x Blc. Jeremy Island
"Carmela".


Could also be just an immature p/bulb trying to get to blooming size

and
aborting the sheath because its not mature enough.

Do you mean, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit? I
have no experience with this variety & am a beginner anyway, so I'm
not too clear how blooming "works" with them.

Alison


Hey! I have something similar! Mine's Pot. Hisako Akatsuka "Volcano

Queen" x
Blc. Wendy's Valentine from Carmela. If I undrestand the notes I put on

the
tag I last repotted it in 9/03 and I probably had it 2 yrs before that,

so
mine's probably 4-5 yrs old. Mine finally bloomed for me last year, a

small
red flower.

Yes, it could start to make a flower spike & then quit. Catts will do

that
when they approach flowering size, so next season could be the trick!

Or
maybe later this season, since I can't recall whether mine bloomed in

fall
or spring.

Nevertheless, your pollen parent Jeremy Island is a much larger plant

than
mine's Wendy's Valentine. I'd expect yours to need to get to a decent
pseudobulb size (6-8 inches tall, maybe?) before flowering.

IIRC your culture conditions sounded OK, like it should bloom for you

under
your conditions... but I can't recall exactly. As with anything else,

opt
to push it into slightly brighter light or light thats available for

more
hours in a day (Which I think you had)

Keep the faith

K Barrett


Our plants are cousins I think mine must be at least 6; I've had
it 4 years & it was a decent seedling size when I got it. The last
shoot is at least 8" tall, & that was one of the ones that fizzled.
It's got 2 more coming. Don't suppose you recall, if you did anything
in particular with yours before it bloomed, like more or less water?
The only thing I could do light wise is to move it onto the really hot
unshaded south kitchen windowsill, from the bedroom south windowsill
with the sheer curtain. It's pretty hot & bright there too.
Thanks for the tips. It's nice to know they abort spikes normally;
maybe it wasn't my fault

Alison


Yeah, I didn't think your trouble was light. I didn't do anything different
with mine, either. Just treated it like any catt. Day/night temp
differential, feed occasionally, there it is. See what happens.

K


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