dd wrote:

That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I
may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my
humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as
greenhouse plants.



Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that
doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2
bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've
never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always
over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding.
Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny
percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations:

1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant.
They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often
more cool growing.
2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the
smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower.
3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a
rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool
growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are
quite free blooming.
4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually.
5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I
think they are easier to grow under lights.
6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors
concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point,
without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing
these charming little things indoors.

Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most
of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open
the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can
make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall
weather.

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

dd wrote:

That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I
may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my
humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as
greenhouse plants.



Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that
doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2
bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've
never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always
over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding.
Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny
percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations:

1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant.
They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often
more cool growing.
2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the
smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower.
3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a
rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool
growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are
quite free blooming.
4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually.
5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I
think they are easier to grow under lights.
6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors
concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point,
without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing
these charming little things indoors.

Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most
of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open
the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can
make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall
weather.

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

dd wrote:

That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I
may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my
humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as
greenhouse plants.



Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that
doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2
bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've
never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always
over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding.
Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny
percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations:

1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant.
They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often
more cool growing.
2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the
smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower.
3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a
rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool
growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are
quite free blooming.
4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually.
5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I
think they are easier to grow under lights.
6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors
concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point,
without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing
these charming little things indoors.

Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most
of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open
the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can
make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall
weather.

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark
Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for
us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to
keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are
also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny
yellow] performing well here.

Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of
Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool
temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are
usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from
infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box
'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well.

So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the
nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been
there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not
to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty
close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch"
(experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into"
an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform,
they don't make it to the website.

On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob
mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C.
aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact,
and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them
tends to impart great heat tolerance.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com


"Rob Halgren" wrote in message
...
dd wrote:

That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I
may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my
humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as
greenhouse plants.



Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that
doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2
bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've
never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always
over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding.
Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny
percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations:

1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant.
They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often
more cool growing.
2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the
smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower.
3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a
rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool
growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are
quite free blooming.
4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually.
5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I
think they are easier to grow under lights.
6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors
concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point,
without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing
these charming little things indoors.

Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most
of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open
the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can
make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall
weather.

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark
Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for
us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to
keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are
also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny
yellow] performing well here.

Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of
Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool
temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are
usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from
infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box
'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well.

So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the
nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been
there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not
to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty
close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch"
(experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into"
an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform,
they don't make it to the website.

On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob
mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C.
aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact,
and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them
tends to impart great heat tolerance.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com


"Rob Halgren" wrote in message
...
dd wrote:

That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I
may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my
humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as
greenhouse plants.



Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that
doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2
bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've
never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always
over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding.
Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny
percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations:

1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant.
They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often
more cool growing.
2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the
smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower.
3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a
rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool
growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are
quite free blooming.
4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually.
5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I
think they are easier to grow under lights.
6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors
concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point,
without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing
these charming little things indoors.

Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most
of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open
the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can
make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall
weather.

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

Thanks to both of you for the information. I read about the C.
walkeriana hybrids in a recent issue of Orchids magazine--pretty
flowers!

It does seem that the very small Slc. crosses are more reluctant to
bloom for me. I bought all of my Slc's from Carter & Holmes. (Actually
took a trip down there--a long drive from the airport in Charleston, if
anyone else is so tempted to make the trip...) In South Carolina they
have high temps too, but they also have much higher light that I do. In
New England, being in front of a south-facing window and under a
400-watt MH light is as good as I can do for these guys. Last year
under those conditions, there were no flowers on my Slcs, but a few of
the bigger cattleya crosses, such as Lc. Robert Strait, bloomed like
troupers. This year, summering the catt family outdoors certainly
helped them to set buds, but the Slc's are still dragging their feet.
The fact that a Potinara free spirit 'Lea' has two buds that are just
opening-- and she's been in a south-facing window but not under the MH
light--tells me that both you and Rob are right on about the high light
requirements of the Sophronitis crosses.

This spring, I would like to make a last-ditch effort and try a few of
the crosses that Kenni and Rob note. Because space is at a premium for
me, I'd really like to be successful with the minis. If my present Slcs
don't put on a good show by next summer, they may find themselves
donated to an orchid society auction.


In article , Kenni Judd
wrote:

As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark
Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for
us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to
keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are
also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny
yellow] performing well here.

Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of
Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool
temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are
usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from
infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box
'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well.

So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the
nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been
there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not
to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty
close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch"
(experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into"
an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform,
they don't make it to the website.

On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob
mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C.
aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact,
and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them
tends to impart great heat tolerance.

Good growing,

Thanks to both of you for the information. I read about the C.
walkeriana hybrids in a recent issue of Orchids magazine--pretty
flowers!

It does seem that the very small Slc. crosses are more reluctant to
bloom for me. I bought all of my Slc's from Carter & Holmes. (Actually
took a trip down there--a long drive from the airport in Charleston, if
anyone else is so tempted to make the trip...) In South Carolina they
have high temps too, but they also have much higher light that I do. In
New England, being in front of a south-facing window and under a
400-watt MH light is as good as I can do for these guys. Last year
under those conditions, there were no flowers on my Slcs, but a few of
the bigger cattleya crosses, such as Lc. Robert Strait, bloomed like
troupers. This year, summering the catt family outdoors certainly
helped them to set buds, but the Slc's are still dragging their feet.
The fact that a Potinara free spirit 'Lea' has two buds that are just
opening-- and she's been in a south-facing window but not under the MH
light--tells me that both you and Rob are right on about the high light
requirements of the Sophronitis crosses.

This spring, I would like to make a last-ditch effort and try a few of
the crosses that Kenni and Rob note. Because space is at a premium for
me, I'd really like to be successful with the minis. If my present Slcs
don't put on a good show by next summer, they may find themselves
donated to an orchid society auction.


In article , Kenni Judd
wrote:

As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark
Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for
us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to
keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are
also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny
yellow] performing well here.

Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of
Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool
temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are
usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from
infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box
'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well.

So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the
nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been
there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not
to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty
close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch"
(experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into"
an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform,
they don't make it to the website.

On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob
mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C.
aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact,
and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them
tends to impart great heat tolerance.

Good growing,