On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 17:39:38 -0500, Rob Halgren
wrote:

Dan wrote:

My question involves the footer. What I'm thinking of at this point is to
have post holes drilled around the perimeter at every 4' at about 18" or 2'
depth. Then slam some rebar down in there, along with 6" diameter or so
steel pipe which will extend 2' above ground level. Will fill the holes and
pipe with concrete for a good base, and lay 4X4's across the top of the
piping ( or maybe 2x6 with 4x4 on top) to function as the base for the
walls. Wall frames to be bolted to this base

Does this sound reasonable? Will place concrete blocks between the pipes to
fill-in the space, with a stone facing on the exterior.

Does this sound like it will be strong enough to support the GH, as well as
keep the GH anchored to the ground during windy periods? It will be
sheltered on three sides by my home and sizable trees to reduce wind issues.
The exposed side will be the south.


I don't doubt that it would be strong enough (actually it sounds like
substantial overkill), but check with your local building department (if
you have one). My township insisted on some pretty unreasonable
requirements for my greenhouse. It is best to ask first rather than
make expensive alterations. Make sure the footings are below frost
level (assuming you get frosts), or they will heave right out of the
ground. Here we have to dig to 4 feet deep.

Rob

Along with twice as big... Make sure it is MUCH TOO TALL. After
you hang a basket or two of Ascda or a really tall Cattleya from
the ceiling bars you will find yourself ducking.

Our gh has a foundation as deep as the house. Outside walls only
(no floor) This was then filled with cobbles (melon sized rocks)
topped with gravel and eventually when it sunk a board walk was
installed. It drains well and holds temp. cooling in the summer
and warming in the winter. Holds the humidity up too.

Wish I had made it longer and wider.
Good luck and Congratulations.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Good advice, Sue.

The lower the surface-to-volume ratio, the more stable the temperature
control will be.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!


"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 17:39:38 -0500, Rob Halgren
wrote:

Dan wrote:

My question involves the footer. What I'm thinking of at this point is
to
have post holes drilled around the perimeter at every 4' at about 18" or
2'
depth. Then slam some rebar down in there, along with 6" diameter or so
steel pipe which will extend 2' above ground level. Will fill the holes
and
pipe with concrete for a good base, and lay 4X4's across the top of the
piping ( or maybe 2x6 with 4x4 on top) to function as the base for the
walls. Wall frames to be bolted to this base

Does this sound reasonable? Will place concrete blocks between the
pipes to
fill-in the space, with a stone facing on the exterior.

Does this sound like it will be strong enough to support the GH, as well
as
keep the GH anchored to the ground during windy periods? It will be
sheltered on three sides by my home and sizable trees to reduce wind
issues.
The exposed side will be the south.


I don't doubt that it would be strong enough (actually it sounds like
substantial overkill), but check with your local building department (if
you have one). My township insisted on some pretty unreasonable
requirements for my greenhouse. It is best to ask first rather than
make expensive alterations. Make sure the footings are below frost
level (assuming you get frosts), or they will heave right out of the
ground. Here we have to dig to 4 feet deep.

Rob

Along with twice as big... Make sure it is MUCH TOO TALL. After
you hang a basket or two of Ascda or a really tall Cattleya from
the ceiling bars you will find yourself ducking.

Our gh has a foundation as deep as the house. Outside walls only
(no floor) This was then filled with cobbles (melon sized rocks)
topped with gravel and eventually when it sunk a board walk was
installed. It drains well and holds temp. cooling in the summer
and warming in the winter. Holds the humidity up too.

Wish I had made it longer and wider.
Good luck and Congratulations.
SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

Thanks to Ray/Rob/Sue! Overkill is better than the reverse, so I suppose
we're on the right track. Frost line is negligible, with night freezes
almost always followed by 40 degree+ daytime temps.

Onward I go! Need to build this before the neighboring city finalizes their
annexation of my home!

Thank You! Thank You! I'll be back.

Dan...