Hello all,

I tried to download the latest 3000 messages to enable me to lurk a bit,
but not many turned up, so here I go:

We have an ugly area of solid concrete in our back garden which used to
be the base of dog kennels and runs. We would like to build a fish pond
on top of it.

Our idea is to use breeze blocks (18 inches x 9 inches) three high
(circa 28 inches high in total) and 14 foot x 11 foot. We then thought
of rendering then painting the outside of the breeze blocks, leave the
inside of the breeze blocks au natural and bung in a big liner.

Then I thought of the weight of all that water! Will the breeze blocks
remain standing or would the whole lot collapse once filled up with
water (or worse still, once stocked with fish)!

If anybody has any experience they could share, or head me in the
direction of a useful site on this subject, I would be most grateful.

Regards,
--
Peter

Breeze blocks????????? I have no idea what they are. Concrete blocks
(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should drill into the old
slab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around the inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.
That would be my plan, Hank
"Peter" ] wrote in message
news:SFip7pEwn51+EwbM@nospamwantedherethankyouvery much.com...
Hello all,

I tried to download the latest 3000 messages to enable me to lurk a bit,
but not many turned up, so here I go:

We have an ugly area of solid concrete in our back garden which used to
be the base of dog kennels and runs. We would like to build a fish pond
on top of it.

Our idea is to use breeze blocks (18 inches x 9 inches) three high
(circa 28 inches high in total) and 14 foot x 11 foot. We then thought
of rendering then painting the outside of the breeze blocks, leave the
inside of the breeze blocks au natural and bung in a big liner.

Then I thought of the weight of all that water! Will the breeze blocks
remain standing or would the whole lot collapse once filled up with
water (or worse still, once stocked with fish)!

If anybody has any experience they could share, or head me in the
direction of a useful site on this subject, I would be most grateful.

Regards,
--
Peter

Hello Hank Pagel,

You wrote:

Breeze blocks????????? I have no idea what they are. Concrete blocks
(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should drill into the old
slab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around the inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.
That would be my plan, Hank

Sorry, Breeze Blocks is probably the wrong description, they are also
called concrete blocks over here (solid).

Is it really important to drill into the concrete base and why please?

Regards,
--
Peter

Concrete blocks(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should drill
into the oldslab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around the
inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.That would be my
plan,

I agree....you NEED rebar. I don't think it absolutely necessary to drill into
the base...but it would be better to do it. I think the sand inside is a good
idea to cushion the bottom of the liner, especially where the block meets the
bottom base. I assume you will then line it, and put more blocks on the top of
liner to hold it in place.....Jerri

http://www.fringeweb.com/Ponds/JerrisPond

Hello Jerrispond,

You wrote:

Concrete blocks(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should drill
into the oldslab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around the
inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.That would be my
plan,

I agree....you NEED rebar.

What is rebar please?
--
Peter

What is rebar please?

metal bars about as big around as your finger, used to reinforce concrete. Buy
at the lumber or hardware store. They come in lenghts of a few feet to over 10
feet. Jerri

http://www.fringeweb.com/Ponds/JerrisPond

Peter, rebar is steel rod that you put into concrete footings and is
available at most building centers. (reinforcement bar) As for the drilling
into the old slab. Mortar does not adhere well to old concrete. Drilling
holes and putting rebar in the holes through the first row of block will
keep the weight of the water from pushing out the wall. Also the cove of
sand at the base displaces much of the weight. This is also recommended for
swimming pools and is why dams are thicker at the bottom.
"Peter" ] wrote in message
news:kxAkWpD0hM2+EwXw@nospamwantedherethankyouvery much.com...
Hello Jerrispond,

You wrote:

Concrete blocks(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should
drill
into the oldslab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around
the
inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.That would be
my
plan,

I agree....you NEED rebar.

What is rebar please?
--
Peter

Thanks Hank & Jerri,

All is becoming more clear now :-)

--
Peter

"Jerrispond" wrote in message
...
Concrete blocks(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should
drill
into the oldslab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around
the
inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.That would be
my
plan,

I agree....you NEED rebar. I don't think it absolutely necessary to drill
into
the base...but it would be better to do it. I think the sand inside is a
good
idea to cushion the bottom of the liner, especially where the block meets
the
bottom base. I assume you will then line it, and put more blocks on the
top of
liner to hold it in place.....Jerri

My greenhouse pond has breeze blocks 2 high with cement joining them as
usuall. This was laid ontop of solid earth! with just a bit of cement to act
as a kind of footings! This all makes a big rectangle. There is a pond liner
on the inside to keep the water in. There are no pins or things stuck in
the ground. But...... The greenhouse is screwed down to the breeze blocks
with six screws.

If I did it againg then I may reinforce it.
If you do build it then if you have your rectangle get the liner and put it
in. Buy some wood and screw it to the liner and through to the blocks. A
kind of edgeing. You could also try stone.

--
SEE YER..
IAN P. GARDNER
SOUTH ENGLAND
ISLE OF WIGHT.
www.gardner44.freeserve.co.uk

Remember to use a heater if there is any significant surface icing in the
winter as the water freezing will swell and exert pressure on the sidewalls.


"IAN GARDNER" wrote in message
...


"Jerrispond" wrote in message
...
Concrete blocks(8x8x16) three high with steel rebar yes,but you should
drill
into the oldslab because it won't bond. Also a 6 inch cove sand around
the
inside
before the liner goes in would support some of the weight.That would be
my
plan,

I agree....you NEED rebar. I don't think it absolutely necessary to drill
into
the base...but it would be better to do it. I think the sand inside is a
good
idea to cushion the bottom of the liner, especially where the block meets
the
bottom base. I assume you will then line it, and put more blocks on the
top of
liner to hold it in place.....Jerri

My greenhouse pond has breeze blocks 2 high with cement joining them as
usuall. This was laid ontop of solid earth! with just a bit of cement to act
as a kind of footings! This all makes a big rectangle. There is a pond liner
on the inside to keep the water in. There are no pins or things stuck in
the ground. But...... The greenhouse is screwed down to the breeze blocks
with six screws.

If I did it againg then I may reinforce it.
If you do build it then if you have your rectangle get the liner and put it
in. Buy some wood and screw it to the liner and through to the blocks. A
kind of edgeing. You could also try stone.

--
SEE YER..
IAN P. GARDNER
SOUTH ENGLAND
ISLE OF WIGHT.
www.gardner44.freeserve.co.uk

Peter wrote:
Hello all,

Our idea is to use breeze blocks (18 inches x 9 inches) three high
(circa 28 inches high in total) and 14 foot x 11 foot. We then thought
of rendering then painting the outside of the breeze blocks, leave the
inside of the breeze blocks au natural and bung in a big liner.

At that height I'd be tempted to line the inside with 1" polystyrene foam
sheet, which will both delay freezing and act as a cushion if the pond does
freeze over, relieving some of the pressure on the walls. And use plenty of
wall ties during building.