I'd like to deepen the pond this year and make it slightly bigger in
diameter. The plan was to move the shrub (flowering crab) and replace the
waterfall with a waterwheel. I was just looking at those stone blocks that
they use to raise flowerbeds and thinking I could use these to deepen the
pond.

But I can see several problems:

One, it may look like crap, giving the pond a wishing well look. I don't
have a lot of room between the walkway and the pond's edge.

Two, I don't know enough about these stones (I've seen a couple of styles)
to know if they would support the liner. Although I currently have two
layers of pavers below the water line on the top 'shelf' of the pond to hold
the liner in place before it gets folded under. Something similar might work
again. Any suggestions appreciated here.

Three, would the gaps in the stones let critters chew holes in the liner or
expose it to the elements. I guess I'd need to backfill the bottom rows (two
or three) and then put the cap stone on top of the liner.

Four, Might provide easier access for critters, raccoons etc.

Five, this would make it difficult to add a water feature (wheel or
waterfall) with the raised edge. Creative ideas appreciated.

I'm not sure this would even apply to your
situation but...
When we dug out pond poor DH got very
tired of dealing with basketball sized boulders.
It was rough going.
He decided to raise the pond by digging
stacking turf. I got a new border out of the
deal and he added a foot to the depth.

k :-)

Before I start with my answer, I guess I better tell you that I have enjoyed
lurking on the new group. Had to leave a while back and find a new home.
Now I will share time with both. This is back to what we once had. Thumbs
up. (bottom)

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I'd like to deepen the pond this year and make it slightly bigger in
diameter. The plan was to move the shrub (flowering crab) and replace the
waterfall with a waterwheel. I was just looking at those stone blocks that
they use to raise flowerbeds and thinking I could use these to deepen the
pond.

But I can see several problems:

One, it may look like crap, giving the pond a wishing well look. I don't
have a lot of room between the walkway and the pond's edge.

Two, I don't know enough about these stones (I've seen a couple of styles)
to know if they would support the liner. Although I currently have two
layers of pavers below the water line on the top 'shelf' of the pond to
hold the liner in place before it gets folded under. Something similar
might work again. Any suggestions appreciated here.

Three, would the gaps in the stones let critters chew holes in the liner
or expose it to the elements. I guess I'd need to backfill the bottom rows
(two or three) and then put the cap stone on top of the liner.

Four, Might provide easier access for critters, raccoons etc.

Five, this would make it difficult to add a water feature (wheel or
waterfall) with the raised edge. Creative ideas appreciated.
I rebuilt my first real liner pond in 2005, removing the plant shelves and
raising the sides of the pond about 2 feet with the stackable landscape
blocks. I then covered the blocks with a geotextile fabric to protect the
liner. You can see the old pond with the block being finished before the
trade over, and the new finished pond on
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondpage6.html. Sorry I don't have any
distant shots on the site to show other views. The pond is now about 42
inches deep. The block is holding up fine. I did use the 6 inch thick
block. They weigh in at about 75 pounds per block. The thinner 4 inch
thick block probably does not have the mmmph to hold back much water.

On Fri, 13 Apr 2007 15:16:24 CST, "RichToyBox"
wrote:

I rebuilt my first real liner pond in 2005, removing the plant shelves and
raising the sides of the pond about 2 feet with the stackable landscape
blocks. I then covered the blocks with a geotextile fabric to protect the
liner. You can see the old pond with the block being finished before the
trade over, and the new finished pond on
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondpage6.html. Sorry I don't have any
distant shots on the site to show other views. The pond is now about 42
inches deep. The block is holding up fine. I did use the 6 inch thick
block. They weigh in at about 75 pounds per block. The thinner 4 inch
thick block probably does not have the mmmph to hold back much water.

Absolutely enjoyed the website/tour. Great shots, beautiful fish! Two large
ponds now, you'll have to take some shots from a distance so we can see how
they are laid out. :-) ~ jan

------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

Hey Rich!
Great to see you again!
Love the affectionate koi.

k :-)

"RichToyBox" wrote in message
. ..
Before I start with my answer, I guess I better tell you that I have
enjoyed lurking on the new group. Had to leave a while back and find a
new home. Now I will share time with both. This is back to what we once
had. Thumbs up. (bottom)

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I'd like to deepen the pond this year and make it slightly bigger in
diameter. The plan was to move the shrub (flowering crab) and replace the
waterfall with a waterwheel. I was just looking at those stone blocks
that they use to raise flowerbeds and thinking I could use these to
deepen the pond.

I rebuilt my first real liner pond in 2005, removing the plant shelves and
raising the sides of the pond about 2 feet with the stackable landscape
blocks. I then covered the blocks with a geotextile fabric to protect the
liner. You can see the old pond with the block being finished before the
trade over, and the new finished pond on
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondpage6.html. Sorry I don't have
any distant shots on the site to show other views. The pond is now about
42 inches deep. The block is holding up fine. I did use the 6 inch thick
block. They weigh in at about 75 pounds per block. The thinner 4 inch
thick block probably does not have the mmmph to hold back much water.

Thanks Rich,

The end result looks pretty good, but I hadn't really considered using the
HUGE stones. :-) Although I suspect you're right, there may not be much
choice. Are these Unilock stones or some generic variety? Do you remember
the style?

I was considering building a little bump (half wall) on the side to conceal
some sort of filter with outflow.

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

Thanks Rich,

The end result looks pretty good, but I hadn't really considered using the
HUGE stones. :-) Although I suspect you're right, there may not be much
choice. Are these Unilock stones or some generic variety? Do you remember
the style?

I was considering building a little bump (half wall) on the side to
conceal some sort of filter with outflow.

The block that I used was anchorwall diamond as shown in the link.
http://www.anchorwall.com/HomeOwners...tail.asp?pid=4

I have used it on both ponds. The larger pond needed approximately 3 foot
of wall on the downhill side of the pond to support the dirt removed from
the pond level with the high side. Within a couple of years of building
that pond, I went back and added a vortex filter just outside of the wall
and added more of the retaining wall to go around that vortex.

build with a stud wall and face with anything from real to fake brick.
http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm

also consider where to put a veggie filter to keep the pond clean. Ingrid


The end result looks pretty good, but I hadn't really considered using the
HUGE stones. :-) Although I suspect you're right, there may not be much
choice. Are these Unilock stones or some generic variety? Do you remember
the style?

I was considering building a little bump (half wall) on the side to
conceal
some sort of filter with outflow.

"drsolo" wrote in message
. com...
build with a stud wall and face with anything from real to fake brick.
http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm

also consider where to put a veggie filter to keep the pond clean. Ingrid

Thanks Ingrid, something else to consider.

I may need some sort of hybrid based on my space issues.

"RichToyBox" wrote in message
. ..

The block that I used was anchorwall diamond as shown in the link.
http://www.anchorwall.com/HomeOwners...tail.asp?pid=4

I have used it on both ponds. The larger pond needed approximately 3 foot
of wall on the downhill side of the pond to support the dirt removed from
the pond level with the high side. Within a couple of years of building
that pond, I went back and added a vortex filter just outside of the wall
and added more of the retaining wall to go around that vortex.

Thanks, did you use any crushed gravel under the stones to prevent them from
settling?

One problem I have is that the edge of the pond is very close to the walkway
on one side (less than 12"), so I don't know how I would support the stones
there. I think I would have to sink some supports into the dirt and backfill
with gravel. The walkway has poured curbs (KwikKerb) so it can't be moved or
overlapped.

A veggie filter can be stocked with plants that grow high rather than out.
my veggie filter isnt very big in footprint and I really only need about
half the length anyway. Ingrid

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I may need some sort of hybrid based on my space issues.

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

Thanks, did you use any crushed gravel under the stones to prevent them
from settling?

I cheated. Some of my block are sitting directly on the surface of the
ground. Some are partially buried to obtain a continous level plane for
each layer. They have not moved yet.

If you are on a very soft, wet, bog type soil then you would definitely need
some support. If you are in an area with significant periods of freezing
that might lift the wall by frost action, then you would definitely want to
get some form of foundation below the frost line.

On the first pond that I used the block, there is about 4 to 5 feet of soil
between the wall and the pond, so if there were any movement it would not be
of any consequence. On the pond that is shown on the web page partially
completed, it is located at the edge of the pond. I cover and heat my ponds
so frost action is not an issue with this pond.