Topping off the pond
The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with
the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? |
Topping off the pond
We just use a hose and put de-clor. in at the same time. We top off about
once or twice a week depending on temps. Plus we may have a bit of a leak somewhere. Anyway, we have koi and goldfish, with topping off a couple times a week with the hose and de-clor. has not affected the water quality or the fish. Pond is clear, fish are happy, pond is full :) "Me" wrote in message ups.com... The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? |
Topping off the pond
We just use a hose and put de-clor. in at the same time. We top off about
once or twice a week depending on temps. Plus we may have a bit of a leak somewhere. Anyway, we have koi and goldfish, with topping off a couple times a week with the hose and de-clor. has not affected the water quality or the fish. Pond is clear, fish are happy, pond is full :) "Me" wrote in message ups.com... The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? |
Topping off the pond
In article . com,
Me wrote: The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? My 800+ gal pond acccidently got drained to almost 1 ft of water a couple weeks ago. Stuck the hose in and filled it, and added a few 5 gallon buckets of mixed de-chlor and tap water every so often during the filling. Fish are fine, and seemed more lively after the water change. My level drops a few inched every 2-3 weeks to where I just stick the hose in to fill it back up. I don't even de-chlor it then. -- To reply by email, remove the word "space" |
Topping off the pond
On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 08:41:18 CST, Me wrote:
The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? IMO, Best way, is use a carbon filter on the hose end and use chlorine test to make sure you haven't used up the carbon's capacity. Next best way, imo, is add the dechlor and let the pond circulate that around then trickle or spray in the water down the waterfall if you have one (my method). ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
This is a good place to add that I hope everyone is not just topping off,
but is taking some of the water out and putting fresh in, about 10% once/week minimum. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
"Me" wrote in message ups.com... The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? ================================= I add water with a greenhouse or nursery type sprayhead. It makes a course spray. This helps degass the water on it's way to the water surface. Unless I'm adding more than around 25% I don't bother with dechloring the water. We don't have much in our tap water. -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Topping off the pond
"Reel McKoi" wrote:
"Me" wrote in message ups.com... The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? ================================= I add water with a greenhouse or nursery type sprayhead. It makes a course spray. This helps degass the water on it's way to the water surface. Unless I'm adding more than around 25% I don't bother with dechloring the water. We don't have much in our tap water. I've seen this mentioned before. Doesn't seem like spraying water in the air would have any effect on the chlorine level of the water once it hit the pond. Can you expand this further? Also, to the original poster, you should find out if your municipality uses chloramine instead of just chlorine in your tap water. The chlorine will dissipate fairly soon. The chloramine will not and it needs to be treated. See this for more than you'll ever want to know about the subject: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php San Diego Joe 4,000 - 5,000 Gallons. Koi, Goldfish, and RES named Colombo. |
Topping off the pond
This is the way I add water to our pond for topping off - "aerating" the
water helps dissipate the chlorine, Not Chloramine - if your municipal water has chloramine, you need a de-chlor Gale :~) I've seen this mentioned before. Doesn't seem like spraying water in the air would have any effect on the chlorine level of the water once it hit the pond. Can you expand this further? Also, to the original poster, you should find out if your municipality uses chloramine instead of just chlorine in your tap water. The chlorine will dissipate fairly soon. The chloramine will not and it needs to be treated. See this for more than you'll ever want to know about the subject: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php San Diego Joe 4,000 - 5,000 Gallons. Koi, Goldfish, and RES named Colombo. |
Topping off the pond
San Diego Joe wrote:
"Reel McKoi" wrote: I add water with a greenhouse or nursery type sprayhead. It makes a course spray. This helps degass the water on it's way to the water surface. Unless I'm adding more than around 25% I don't bother with dechloring the water. We don't have much in our tap water. I've seen this mentioned before. Doesn't seem like spraying water in the air would have any effect on the chlorine level of the water once it hit the pond. Can you expand this further? "Once" it hits the pond, it won't make much difference. If chlorine is used, though, rather than chloramine, you can get rid of a great deal of it by increasing the surface area of the added water by spraying. Also, to the original poster, you should find out if your municipality uses chloramine instead of just chlorine in your tap water. That would be the key. The chlorine will dissipate fairly soon. The chloramine will not and it needs to be treated. I'm less than convinced (and references to reef aquarium literature don't help). A pond is a massive (compared to an aquarium) biological process and between UV from sunlight and bacterial action, I don't think chloramine bonds hold up very long. Any amount of chlorine (and ammonia - the "amine" part of chloramine) is hard on your fish, but small (I'd say less than 5%) amounts get processed pretty well by the pond. -- derek - Unless otherwise noted, I speak for myself, not rec.ponds.moderated moderators. |
Topping off the pond
"San Diego Joe" wrote in message ... "Reel McKoi" wrote: I add water with a greenhouse or nursery type sprayhead. It makes a course spray. This helps degass the water on it's way to the water surface. Unless I'm adding more than around 25% I don't bother with dechloring the water. We don't have much in our tap water. ========== I've seen this mentioned before. Doesn't seem like spraying water in the air would have any effect on the chlorine level of the water once it hit the pond. Can you expand this further? The chlorine, a gas, escapes from the streams of water BEFORE the water hits the ponds surface. Probably not all of it but most of it, as it does work. I was also told or read it picks up oxygen on it's way through the air. Also, to the original poster, you should find out if your municipality uses chloramine instead of just chlorine in your tap water. Yep! That can be a problem that needs a chemical cure. The chlorine will dissipate fairly soon. The chloramine will not and it needs to be treated. See this for more than you'll ever want to know about the subject: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php -- RM.... Frugal ponding since 1995. rec.ponder since late 1996. My Pond & Aquarium Pages: http://tinyurl.com/9do58 Zone 6. Middle TN USA ~~~~ }((((* ~~~ }{{{{(ö |
Topping off the pond
In article ,
~ jan wrote: This is a good place to add that I hope everyone is not just topping off, but is taking some of the water out and putting fresh in, about 10% once/week minimum. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us 10% is quite a bit for once a week! I've never done this in many years of having a pond. Maybe every couple months. Water has always been manageable. -- To reply by email, remove the word "space" |
Topping off the pond
On Jul 6, 8:41 am, Me wrote:
The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? I have a 35 gallon container near the pond! I fill that up with water and add the dechlor,deammoniator - Denver water has ammonia in it! I let it age, then I siphon it in as needed! |
Topping off the pond
On Sun, 8 Jul 2007 20:50:56 CST, Kurt wrote:
10% is quite a bit for once a week! I've never done this in many years of having a pond. Maybe every couple months. Water has always been manageable. And I use to only do a 20-25% change once a month, but the experts (keep in mind these are strict koi pond people) say for best results, flow thru. Next best, once/week. I think with a garden pond we have a lot more leeway... and if your tests are good, and your water is clear, if it isn't broke... applies. ;-) ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
Kurt wrote:
In article , ~ jan wrote: This is a good place to add that I hope everyone is not just topping off, but is taking some of the water out and putting fresh in, about 10% once/week minimum. ~ jan 10% is quite a bit for once a week! I've never done this in many years of having a pond. Maybe every couple months. Water has always been manageable. Sure it's a lot, but it would make for a healthier pond. I'd disagree with "minimum", though. Most ponders don't manage to change that much, and most ponders don't have serious problems. I suspect that it depends greatly on evaporation (Jan lives in the desert), and fish load. -- derek - Unless otherwise noted, I speak for myself, not rec.ponds.moderated moderators. |
Topping off the pond
"Reel McKoi" wrote Also, to the original poster, you should find out if your municipality uses chloramine instead of just chlorine in your tap water. The chlorine will dissipate fairly soon. The chloramine will not and it needs to be treated. See this for more than you'll ever want to know about the subject: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php Municipal water systems are required by the EPA in the USA to disclose the chemicals used in their water treatment processes must publish this information each year for its customers. For instance, here in New Orleans, the Sewerage and Water Board publishes a booklet annually that describes what they do (see http://www.swbno.org/waterpurification.html and http://www.swbno.org/wq2006rptinframe.html ). Here's an exerpt: "The raw river water is treated with chemicals called "coagulants" which cause the small particles in the water to come together to form larger particles which are then allowed to settle out of the water. Rapid sand filtration is used to remove even smaller particles. During the process chloramine is added to disinfect the water. Lime is added to provide corrosion control and to increase the pH of the water to stabilize the disinfectant. Fluoride is added to prevent tooth decay." The coagulants used are polyelectrolites and ferric sulfate, both of which are almost entirely removed during the initial coagulation (flocculation) processing. Lime is added to increase the pH level of the water and to stabilize the disinfectant. Later, free chlorine and anhydrous ammonia are added to produce the disinfectant chloramine (technically that's soldium hypochlorite NH2Cl)). Sodium hexametaphosphate is added to keep the lime in solution. The flouride added is fluorosilicic acid. This process is not unlike that used in many cities. The separate addition of the chlorine and ammonia to produce chloramine is typical and effective because chlorine is dangerous to transport and chloramine is more stable as the water is distributed. However, as "Reel McKoi" says, it has to be treated with commercial chemicals (generally sodium thiosulfate) before introduction into the pond. For some interesting info on chloramines and fish culture, see http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/doc...chlorine.shtml ). Michael New Orleans, Louisiana USA ================================================== ============== |
Topping off the pond
On Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:25:14 CST, Derek Broughton
wrote: Sure it's a lot, but it would make for a healthier pond. I'd disagree with "minimum", though. Most ponders don't manage to change that much, and most ponders don't have serious problems. I suspect that it depends greatly on evaporation (Jan lives in the desert), and fish load. I wasn't suggesting adding evaporation as part of the change out. Nor was I talking regionally. I rarely give suggestions based on my location or my situation. I was talking from the viewpoint of the KHA program and what is currently considered best for koi, especially in a koi only pond. IMO, even in a planted pond, if one is doing a lot of moving plants around, in/out, dividing, adding new, etc. it is still good to remove 10-20%/week just to get rid of some of the organics in the water given off by the planting media. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
~ jan wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jul 2007 08:25:14 CST, Derek Broughton wrote: Sure it's a lot, but it would make for a healthier pond. I'd disagree with "minimum", though. Most ponders don't manage to change that much, and most ponders don't have serious problems. I suspect that it depends greatly on evaporation (Jan lives in the desert), and fish load. I wasn't suggesting adding evaporation as part of the change out. Neither was I. Salination increases as evaporation increases, and so removal of old water becomes more important. I was talking from the viewpoint of the KHA program and what is currently considered best for koi, especially in a koi only pond. I know, and I'm sure it _is_ best, but there really aren't that many people who make the effort. -- derek - Unless otherwise noted, I speak for myself, not rec.ponds.moderated moderators. |
Topping off the pond
On Mon, 9 Jul 2007 13:25:19 CST, Derek Broughton
wrote: I know, and I'm sure it _is_ best, but there really aren't that many people who make the effort. That's why I keep encouraging them to do so. ;-) Our club has been heavy on the encouragement, and not just from me, but the other KHA more so. Neither of us has had any pond problem calls from members. Either they're following our suggestions, or don't want to hear the lecture again thus aren't reporting problems. I don't know. ~ jan ;-) ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
organics dechlor chlorinated water. has anyone just tried running
city water thru peat moss? Ingrid |
Topping off the pond
On Jul 9, 11:22 pm, wrote:
organics dechlor chlorinated water. has anyone just tried running city water thru peat moss? Ingrid I don't know! Since it is actually Chloramine in city water you want to deal with! I don't know what peat moss would do! |
Topping off the pond
wrote:
organics dechlor chlorinated water. has anyone just tried running city water thru peat moss? Ingrid The problem with chlorine and organics is that the combination produces trihalomethanes (THM) - which are pretty bad for people. Does anybody know what they do to fish? (Apparently somebody does - the EPA has a report about the effects on Striped Bass at http://oaspub.epa.gov/eims/eimsapi.d...ail?deid=40377 but I don't want to spend $17.50 to get it only to find it doesn't mean anything to me - I wasn't even sure about the term "Hepatocyte"). In drinking water systems, the aim is to filter practically all the organics out of the water before treating with chlorine, to keep the THM levels within EPA limits. If the THMs are a problem with fish, you really don't want to use an organic filter to remove chlorine. [damn, I met an expert in this sort of stuff two weeks ago - but did I know then I needed to get his email address?] -- derek - Unless otherwise noted, I speak for myself, not rec.ponds.moderated moderators. |
Topping off the pond
In article .com,
chatnoir wrote: On Jul 9, 11:22 pm, wrote: organics dechlor chlorinated water. has anyone just tried running city water thru peat moss? Ingrid I don't know! Since it is actually Chloramine in city water you want to deal with! I don't know what peat moss would do! Yes, I think most cities are using chloramine instead of chlorine these days. -- To reply by email, remove the word "space" |
Topping off the pond
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 09:28:08 CST, Derek Broughton
wrote: The problem with chlorine and organics is that the combination produces trihalomethanes (THM) - which are pretty bad for people. Does anybody know what they do to fish? (Apparently somebody does - the EPA has a report about the effects on Striped Bass at http://oaspub.epa.gov/eims/eimsapi.d...ail?deid=40377 but I don't want to spend $17.50 to get it only to find it doesn't mean anything to me - I wasn't even sure about the term "Hepatocyte"). In drinking water systems, the aim is to filter practically all the organics out of the water before treating with chlorine, to keep the THM levels within EPA limits. If the THMs are a problem with fish, you really don't want to use an organic filter to remove chlorine. [damn, I met an expert in this sort of stuff two weeks ago - but did I know then I needed to get his email address?] Hmmm, sounds like dechlor all the time might be wise when using tap water? Usually for a top off we usually say don't worry, but the chlorine is surely reacting to the organics in a pond system, thus creating this THM? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
Me wrote:
The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? My pond is only 650 gals. I have an 80 litre plastic container into which I put dechlor, then spray water in. Then trickle feed from tap into pond. -- ßôyþëtë London, UK |
Topping off the pond
~ jan wrote:
Hmmm, sounds like dechlor all the time might be wise when using tap water? Usually for a top off we usually say don't worry, but the chlorine is surely reacting to the organics in a pond system, thus creating this THM? Could be, but I don't have a clue how harmful THMs might be to fish, and how much would be created from any given amount of chlorinated water. THMs seem to be the latest trend in drinking water supply scares, but even for people they're talking about long-term toxicity, not short term. -- derek - Unless otherwise noted, I speak for myself, not rec.ponds.moderated moderators. |
Topping off the pond
On Jul 10, 2:32 pm, ~ jan wrote:
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 09:28:08 CST, Derek Broughton wrote: The problem with chlorine and organics is that the combination produces trihalomethanes (THM) - which are pretty bad for people. Does anybody know what they do to fish? (Apparently somebody does - the EPA has a report about the effects on Striped Bass at http://oaspub.epa.gov/eims/eimsapi.d...?deid=40377but I don't want to spend $17.50 to get it only to find it doesn't mean anything to me - I wasn't even sure about the term "Hepatocyte"). In drinking water systems, the aim is to filter practically all the organics out of the water before treating with chlorine, to keep the THM levels within EPA limits. If the THMs are a problem with fish, you really don't want to use an organic filter to remove chlorine. [damn, I met an expert in this sort of stuff two weeks ago - but did I know then I needed to get his email address?] Hmmm, sounds like dechlor all the time might be wise when using tap water? Usually for a top off we usually say don't worry, but the chlorine is surely reacting to the organics in a pond system, thus creating this THM? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds:www.jjspond.us What about this?: http://tinyurl.com/2bn7a5 |
Topping off the pond
"chatnoir" wrote in message
ups.com... On Jul 10, 2:32 pm, ~ jan wrote: On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 09:28:08 CST, Derek Broughton wrote: The problem with chlorine and organics is that the combination produces trihalomethanes (THM) - which are pretty bad for people. Does anybody know what they do to fish? (Apparently somebody does - the EPA has a report about the effects on Striped Bass at http://oaspub.epa.gov/eims/eimsapi.d...?deid=40377but I don't want to spend $17.50 to get it only to find it doesn't mean anything to me - I wasn't even sure about the term "Hepatocyte"). In drinking water systems, the aim is to filter practically all the organics out of the water before treating with chlorine, to keep the THM levels within EPA limits. If the THMs are a problem with fish, you really don't want to use an organic filter to remove chlorine. [damn, I met an expert in this sort of stuff two weeks ago - but did I know then I needed to get his email address?] Hmmm, sounds like dechlor all the time might be wise when using tap water? Usually for a top off we usually say don't worry, but the chlorine is surely reacting to the organics in a pond system, thus creating this THM? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds:www.jjspond.us What about this?: http://tinyurl.com/2bn7a5 That type of filter should be listed for a certain number of gallons, rather than a minimum time. It is a charcoal filter and when it is full, it is full. The use for an aquarium for a year would be different than for a 10000 gallon pond. I have seen koi killed using a carbon filter that ran out of steam. If you are going to use one of these, it would be a good idea to have a chlorine test kit for a swimming pool to check the charcoal filter to be sure that it is still working. |
Topping off the pond
What about this?:
http://tinyurl.com/2bn7a5 That type of filter should be listed for a certain number of gallons, rather than a minimum time. It is a charcoal filter and when it is full, it is full. The use for an aquarium for a year would be different than for a 10000 gallon pond. I have seen koi killed using a carbon filter that ran out of steam. If you are going to use one of these, it would be a good idea to have a chlorine test kit for a swimming pool to check the charcoal filter to be sure that it is still working. RTB The other KHA in our club has done amazing stuff with carbon filtration. He purchased 2 whole house carbon filters with a spigot in between, he runs them in parallel. He tests from the spigot periodically, but not a pool tester, not really sensitive enough we found. If it registers, he pulls the filter from the 2nd and puts it in the 1st and a new one goes in the 2nd. That way he's always covered. This works really well for a large pond. For the rest of us, the item chatnoir listed, is probably do able, but again, one would have to test it, probably each time until they figured out just how many gallons it can do. People have made these from supplies at hardware stores cheaper, I believe. Seems one could run a couple of these cylinder units similar to what my co-KHA did with the whole house units. By using a quick disconnect to test the 1st cylinder periodically. Wow, after typing that, it seems like a lot of work... I think I'll stick with dechlor as long as my water supply sticks to chlorine. ;-) ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
Topping off the pond
well here in Milwaukee the questionability of the drinking water is
always a damn fine reason to drink beer....................... On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 18:35:19 CST, Derek Broughton Could be, but I don't have a clue how harmful THMs might be to fish, and how much would be created from any given amount of chlorinated water. THMs seem to be the latest trend in drinking water supply scares, but even for people they're talking about long-term toxicity, not short term. |
Topping off the pond
|
Topping off the pond
On Jul 12, 10:57 am, wrote:
well here in Milwaukee the questionability of the drinking water is always a damn fine reason to drink beer....................... But do the fish swim well in the beer? On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 18:35:19 CST, Derek Broughton Could be, but I don't have a clue how harmful THMs might be to fish, and how much would be created from any given amount of chlorinated water. THMs seem to be the latest trend in drinking water supply scares, but even for people they're talking about long-term toxicity, not short term. |
Topping off the pond
I just add city water with a sprinkler. I have done this for 20 years with no adverse affects. The less chemicals the better. Take care.
"Goldlexus" wrote in message news:7dtji.16$CJ4.10@trndny08... We just use a hose and put de-clor. in at the same time. We top off about once or twice a week depending on temps. Plus we may have a bit of a leak somewhere. Anyway, we have koi and goldfish, with topping off a couple times a week with the hose and de-clor. has not affected the water quality or the fish. Pond is clear, fish are happy, pond is full :) "Me" wrote in message ups.com... The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. Can I put the hose in the pond and pour the water conditioner in all at the same time or do I need to put the water and conditioner in something separate (a trash can?), let it sit for a little while and then pour it into the pond? |
Topping off the pond
We just use a hose and put de-clor. in at the same time. We top off about once or twice a week depending on temps. "Me" wrote in message The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. I have a 1/2" "water leveler" that slowly, but automatically, puts in city water to compensate for evaporation which is truly significant (4-5" drop in water level/day) here in VERY hot sunny AZ. When I finally convert the pool into a pond, how do I figure out how much to de-clor and when? I certainly don't want to wait for symptoms from my fish. Will slowly adding the city water to the large stabilized 18000 gal pond be an insignificant addition? BTW, our city water is so hard and full of 'stuff" that it is just short of toxic. The Lime-Away gets used a lot to clean off the scum. And I developed kidney stones. Chip |
Topping off the pond
"Chip" wrote in message ... I have a 1/2" "water leveler" that slowly, but automatically, puts in city water to compensate for evaporation which is truly significant (4-5" drop in water level/day) here in VERY hot sunny AZ. When I finally convert the pool into a pond, how do I figure out how much to de-clor and when? I certainly don't want to wait for symptoms from my fish. Will slowly adding the city water to the large stabilized 18000 gal pond be an insignificant addition? Chip If you are adding that much water per day, then you need to find a way to dechlor the water. The best way would be a carbon filter. It would be advisable to have two carbon filters in series and test the water periodically between the first and second to see when the filter has been spent. There are chemical metering pumps that would allow you to introduce a very small quantity of dechlor to the water as the flow is going to the pond. |
Topping off the pond
"Chip" wrote:
We just use a hose and put de-clor. in at the same time. We top off about once or twice a week depending on temps. "Me" wrote in message The water level in the bottom tier of the pond has dropped some with the heat down here in the Southeast. I want to put some more in but not sure of the best way. I have a 1/2" "water leveler" that slowly, but automatically, puts in city water to compensate for evaporation which is truly significant (4-5" drop in water level/day) here in VERY hot sunny AZ. When I finally convert the pool into a pond, how do I figure out how much to de-clor and when? I certainly don't want to wait for symptoms from my fish. Will slowly adding the city water to the large stabilized 18000 gal pond be an insignificant addition? BTW, our city water is so hard and full of 'stuff" that it is just short of toxic. The Lime-Away gets used a lot to clean off the scum. And I developed kidney stones. Chip I've attached a meter to my hose end and figure the volume from that. When you know the gallons you just add that much dechlor. I disconnected my "auto fill" last year. It broke and I didn't realize it. Fortunately, I have a large pond and the filler wasn't spraying water, just a steady drip. Now I always do it by hand. San Diego Joe 4,000 - 5,000 Gallons. Koi, Goldfish, and RES named Colombo. |
My 800+ gal pond acccidently got drained to almost 1 ft of water a couple weeks ago. Stuck the hose in and filled it, and added a few 5 gallon buckets of mixed de-chlor and tap water every so often during the filling. Fish are fine, and seemed more lively after the water change.
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