The old pond had a double ring of serpentine pavers on a shelf to hold the
liner in place. The obligatory lime capstones sat on top of the pavers to
hide them and hold the liner in place. This looked very quaint, but it did
cost me a few gallons for the dirt to support the pavers and this is where I
had some minor slumpage lately.

So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would
then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to
hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner.
I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction
supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of
the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also
thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood.

Doing without the pavers will allow me 200+ more gallons for the dirt and
possibly 200+ more gallons for the higher water level. Since Koi are a major
reason for the upgrade, more water is good.

I'd like your opinions on the engineering feasibility of attaching the liner
this way (stretching, slumping, shifting rebar) and the loss of the quaint
factor.

my current pond is built that way. dont cut any liner at first. fill
the pond let it sit a few days, walk in it. then nail the sucker
down. worked for us. http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm
we used permalon with this pond. Ingrid

On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock"
wrote:

The old pond had a double ring of serpentine pavers on a shelf to hold the
liner in place. The obligatory lime capstones sat on top of the pavers to
hide them and hold the liner in place. This looked very quaint, but it did
cost me a few gallons for the dirt to support the pavers and this is where I
had some minor slumpage lately.

So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would
then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to
hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner.
I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction
supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of
the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also
thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood.

Doing without the pavers will allow me 200+ more gallons for the dirt and
possibly 200+ more gallons for the higher water level. Since Koi are a major
reason for the upgrade, more water is good.

I'd like your opinions on the engineering feasibility of attaching the liner
this way (stretching, slumping, shifting rebar) and the loss of the quaint
factor.

On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock"
wrote:

So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I would
then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber to
hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the liner.
I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction
supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of
the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also
thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood.

I had a pond built of PT lawn timbers and EPDM liner that lasted 8 or
10 years. It was well constructed, but settled. I jacked it up and
re-leveled it a couple times, but it continued to leak in the corners
and in lesser amounts that I couldn't see until I took the timbers out
and replaced them with retaining wall stones. I prefer stone and
concrete in future construction. Removing The lag screwed wood frame
pond wasn't as easy as building it.
--
Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8
http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb

wrote in message
. com...
my current pond is built that way. dont cut any liner at first. fill
the pond let it sit a few days, walk in it. then nail the sucker
down. worked for us. http://weloveteaching.com/mypond/2000/p2000.htm
we used permalon with this pond. Ingrid

Thanks,

I was looking at your pictures recently for ideas on the waterfall
(FastFalls).

"Hal" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 3 Sep 2007 20:40:42 CST, "Bill Stock"
wrote:

So I was considering using some 4" timbers held in place with rebar. I
would
then wrap the liner over the timber and nail a strip on top of the timber
to
hold the liner. But I thought this might put too much pressure on the
liner.
I could still cover the timber with my capstones if my construction
supervisor objected. The timbers are PT BTW, but they would be outside of
the liner and I would use some fish safe wood for my nailing strip. I also
thought I might attach my lights to the top of the wood.

I had a pond built of PT lawn timbers and EPDM liner that lasted 8 or
10 years. It was well constructed, but settled. I jacked it up and
re-leveled it a couple times, but it continued to leak in the corners
and in lesser amounts that I couldn't see until I took the timbers out
and replaced them with retaining wall stones. I prefer stone and
concrete in future construction. Removing The lag screwed wood frame
pond wasn't as easy as building it.
--
Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8
http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb

Yeah, I took out my old retaining wall (only 2 high) recently and I never
did get all the rebar out. I had to slice it up and take it out piece by
piece.

Thanks for the insight, I'm kinda leaning away from the wood frame due to
the extra work. It would not be square (6 or 7 sides), so I'd have to make
several lap joints to get the support I want with one row of timber. At the
rate I'm progressing with my clay, it will be Decemeber before I'm done
digging.

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 08:27:31 CST, wrote:

we used permalon with this pond. Ingrid

I see your pictures are dated 2000. I installed a Permalon pond about
1997 or 98, but I ordered some more this year and I didn't get the
same material as what I have in my pond. The difference was
unbelievable. The material they sent me this year, made by the same
company and with the same general description was much stiffer and far
more difficult to manage. I compared it to a scrap I had left over to
make sure and then I paid the freight to send it back and ordered
EPDM. If yours is the later version, I can see why you filled the
pond before making a cut. Mine had been buried for a year when I
decided to put in a bottom drain and filter barrels. It was a routine
job, the liner had taken on a bit of stiffness, but still was pliable
enough it worked well to cut and place the drain, then fill and adjust
the liner around the drain.
--
Hal Middle Georgia, Zone 8
http://tinyurl.com/2fxzcb