Hi folks,
It's been awhile since I was around. It's great to see so many familiar
names still active. My name is Elizabeth and I'm a ponder in South
Louisiana. My pond is about 2000 gallons, has waterlilies and goldfish,
frogs and snakes (and an occasional puppy). No bottom drain installed,
sludge build up on bottom is about two inches deep.
Water quality is rock solid. pH 7.9, KH 240, GH 120, NO3 & NO4 nonexistant.
Reasonably clear, the bottom (20") is visible with a small amount of
particulate in the water column. I've never been obsessive about crystal
clear water as long as the fish are visible. Crystal generally only happens
here in the middle of winter when the water is cold.
Traditionally, I have used manual cleaning methods combined with Bio Sludge
Controls to keep the crud to manageable levels. Earlier this spring I found
a submersible pump/filter/UV sterilizer at clearance pricing that I couldn't
resist :-)
It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.
Thanks for your help. It's great to see everybody,

elizabeth

On Wed, 20 May 2009 09:57:46 EDT, Elizabeth wrote:

It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.

Yes you should be fine. The UV is only strong enough to clump the
floating algae that cause green water, it isn't strong enough to kill
much bacteria in the water column. I'll add usually because in a pond
your size you would need a 2Kw UV but I doubt if it's that large :-)

Is this your first/only filter? It will take out the floating things
that block your vision but you will need to clean it when the flow
falls. Be aware also that the UV tube looses efficiency and the bulb
needs changing about once a year, you also need to clean the shroud
once in a while to allow the light through.

Best of luck.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk

In article ,
"Elizabeth" wrote:

Hi folks,
It's been awhile since I was around. It's great to see so many familiar
names still active. My name is Elizabeth and I'm a ponder in South
Louisiana. My pond is about 2000 gallons, has waterlilies and goldfish,
frogs and snakes (and an occasional puppy). No bottom drain installed,
sludge build up on bottom is about two inches deep.
Water quality is rock solid. pH 7.9, KH 240, GH 120, NO3 & NO4 nonexistant.
Reasonably clear, the bottom (20") is visible with a small amount of
particulate in the water column. I've never been obsessive about crystal
clear water as long as the fish are visible. Crystal generally only happens
here in the middle of winter when the water is cold.
Traditionally, I have used manual cleaning methods combined with Bio Sludge
Controls to keep the crud to manageable levels. Earlier this spring I found
a submersible pump/filter/UV sterilizer at clearance pricing that I couldn't
resist :-)
It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.
Thanks for your help. It's great to see everybody,

elizabeth

I'd just make sure the UV is not one that sits in the filter. Mine is
inline before the filter.

--
To reply by email, remove the word "space"

"Kurt" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Elizabeth" wrote:

Snipped for brevity.....
Earlier this spring I found
a submersible pump/filter/UV sterilizer at clearance pricing that I
couldn't
resist :-)
It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question
is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.
Thanks for your help. It's great to see everybody,

elizabeth

I'd just make sure the UV is not one that sits in the filter. Mine is
inline before the filter.

--
To reply by email, remove the word "space"

...
The UV sits inline after the filter media and before the pump. Why does it
matter?

...

"Rodney Pont" wrote in message
news:atcfzvasbuvgflfgrzfygqhx.kjyo0s0.pminews@ouse .infohitsystems.ltd.uk...
On Wed, 20 May 2009 09:57:46 EDT, Elizabeth wrote:

It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.

Yes you should be fine. The UV is only strong enough to clump the
floating algae that cause green water, it isn't strong enough to kill
much bacteria in the water column. I'll add usually because in a pond
your size you would need a 2Kw UV but I doubt if it's that large :-)

Is this your first/only filter? It will take out the floating things
that block your vision but you will need to clean it when the flow
falls. Be aware also that the UV tube looses efficiency and the bulb
needs changing about once a year, you also need to clean the shroud
once in a while to allow the light through.

Best of luck.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk


Thanks for your advice. Chances are the filter/UV will only be in use when
the water turns green. I got tired of cleaning filters long ago. Around the
pond are a couple 'settling' catch basins baffled with cotton rope. Easy to
rinse at season's end and remarkably efficient at collecting gunk. I scoop
leaves and large debris as needed and let the gunk busters (Ponzyme, Laguna)
do the rest. I try to manage to water quality (hardness, alkalinity and
nutrient levels) to keep the water clear.

elizabeth

On Wed, 20 May 2009 09:57:46 EDT, "Elizabeth" wrote:

Hi folks,
It's been awhile since I was around. It's great to see so many familiar
names still active. My name is Elizabeth and I'm a ponder in South
Louisiana. My pond is about 2000 gallons, has waterlilies and goldfish,
frogs and snakes (and an occasional puppy). No bottom drain installed,
sludge build up on bottom is about two inches deep.
Water quality is rock solid. pH 7.9, KH 240, GH 120, NO3 & NO4 nonexistant.
Reasonably clear, the bottom (20") is visible with a small amount of
particulate in the water column. I've never been obsessive about crystal
clear water as long as the fish are visible. Crystal generally only happens
here in the middle of winter when the water is cold.
Traditionally, I have used manual cleaning methods combined with Bio Sludge
Controls to keep the crud to manageable levels. Earlier this spring I found
a submersible pump/filter/UV sterilizer at clearance pricing that I couldn't
resist :-)
It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.
Thanks for your help. It's great to see everybody,

elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth!

Just turn off the UV for a day or two... though you could call the
manufacturer and see what they recommend. Would be interesting to know for
sure. ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

In article ,
"Elizabeth" wrote:

"Kurt" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Elizabeth" wrote:

Snipped for brevity.....
Earlier this spring I found
a submersible pump/filter/UV sterilizer at clearance pricing that I
couldn't
resist :-)
It worked beautifully to clear up my spring greenies quickly. Question
is,
can I use the Bio sludge control with the UV light? I'm concerned that it
will kill the (bacteria? enzymes?) in the solution. The UV could be
unplugged if needed.
Thanks for your help. It's great to see everybody,

elizabeth

I'd just make sure the UV is not one that sits in the filter. Mine is
inline before the filter.

--
To reply by email, remove the word "space"

..
The UV sits inline after the filter media and before the pump. Why does it
matter?

..

There are those UV clarifiers that can be placed in the filter.
It will kill the good bacteria that do all the filter work as well as
algae.

--
To reply by email, remove the word "space"

On Fri, 22 May 2009 20:46:26 EDT, Kurt wrote:

There are those UV clarifiers that can be placed in the filter.
It will kill the good bacteria that do all the filter work as well as
algae.

Hi Kurt,
It won't kill any of the filter bacteria. UV clarifiers aren't powerful
enough to kill bacteria, that's a UV sterilizer as used in aquariums.
Even with a UV sterilizer it can only kill bacteria that passes through
the tube containing the bulb and can't kill anything in the filter. UV
sterilizers use about 10W per gallon, for example - can't remember the
figure these days but it is very high compared to a clarifier.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk

In article
ohitsystems.ltd.uk,
"Rodney Pont" wrote:

On Fri, 22 May 2009 20:46:26 EDT, Kurt wrote:

There are those UV clarifiers that can be placed in the filter.
It will kill the good bacteria that do all the filter work as well as
algae.

Hi Kurt,
It won't kill any of the filter bacteria. UV clarifiers aren't powerful
enough to kill bacteria, that's a UV sterilizer as used in aquariums.
Even with a UV sterilizer it can only kill bacteria that passes through
the tube containing the bulb and can't kill anything in the filter. UV
sterilizers use about 10W per gallon, for example - can't remember the
figure these days but it is very high compared to a clarifier.

Thanks for that "clarification" :-). I had gotten my information from a
seasoned pond guy. Made sense.

I have an inline 40 Watt UV clarifier. Pretty bright bulb. Made sense
that one that powerful would affect other bacteria.

--
To reply by email, remove the word "space"

On Sat, 23 May 2009 15:27:33 EDT, Kurt wrote:

Thanks for that "clarification" :-). I had gotten my information from a
seasoned pond guy. Made sense.

It's easy to get confused by this. When the filter bacteria are just
getting started you want them spread around in the water column because
the grow on everything so it's always advisable to turn the tube off
for that. They do kill some of the bacteria passing through and you
don't really want that. Once it's established in the filter though it's
safe even if you are running at killer levels :-)

I have an inline 40 Watt UV clarifier. Pretty bright bulb. Made sense
that one that powerful would affect other bacteria.

Heres a link to some sterilizers on sale in the UK as an example:

http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/cat...terilisers.asp

To kill everything you have to get all of the water through the UV
light in about 20 minutes so that you don't give the bacteria time to
breed. You then also have to limit the flow rate so that the bacteria
is exposed for long enough for it's DNA to be disrupted. The first two
use the shorter T5 tube so flow rates have to be lower than the second
two using the T8 tube. My badly remembered 10W per gallon was way out,
it looks more like 5 gallons per watt so your 40W unit would be ok to
sterilize a 200 gallon pond providing you didn't pump the water through
at more than 600 gallons per hour (all UK gallons by the way).

You can see the pond clarifiers if you go into the pond section. Your
40W unit will do something like 6-7 thousand gallons and even larger
but not as quickly.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail ngpsm4 (at) infohitsystems (dot) ltd (dot) uk

the biofilter bacteria arent in the water column. they are colonies on the media. so
UV doesnt kill them. Ingrid
Somewhere between zone 5 and 6 tucked along the shore of Lake Michigan
on the council grounds of the Fox, Mascouten, Potawatomi, and Winnebago

In article
ohitsystems.ltd.uk,
"Rodney Pont" wrote:

On Sat, 23 May 2009 15:27:33 EDT, Kurt wrote:

Thanks for that "clarification" :-). I had gotten my information from a
seasoned pond guy. Made sense.

It's easy to get confused by this. When the filter bacteria are just
getting started you want them spread around in the water column because
the grow on everything so it's always advisable to turn the tube off
for that. They do kill some of the bacteria passing through and you
don't really want that. Once it's established in the filter though it's
safe even if you are running at killer levels :-)

I have an inline 40 Watt UV clarifier. Pretty bright bulb. Made sense
that one that powerful would affect other bacteria.

Heres a link to some sterilizers on sale in the UK as an example:

http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/cat...terilisers.asp

To kill everything you have to get all of the water through the UV
light in about 20 minutes so that you don't give the bacteria time to
breed. You then also have to limit the flow rate so that the bacteria
is exposed for long enough for it's DNA to be disrupted. The first two
use the shorter T5 tube so flow rates have to be lower than the second
two using the T8 tube. My badly remembered 10W per gallon was way out,
it looks more like 5 gallons per watt so your 40W unit would be ok to
sterilize a 200 gallon pond providing you didn't pump the water through
at more than 600 gallons per hour (all UK gallons by the way).

You can see the pond clarifiers if you go into the pond section. Your
40W unit will do something like 6-7 thousand gallons and even larger
but not as quickly.

Mine is overkill. I have about a 1000 gal pond with a 3000GPH pump
running 1.5" tubing,including the 40 watt Pondmaster clarifier (
http://www.aquatichouse.com/UVSteril...s/DannerUV.asp )
into a Savio Livingponds waterfall filter. Water enters/exits clarifier
through elbow fitting, so water, I'm assuming, is slowed a bit.

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