Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
To divide or not to divide lilies
Jan, your thread on lilies tweaked a question in my mind that I
thought I would do as a new thread. What is the trade off between dividing lilies and just letting them grow their tubers? We have not divided ours for years. We have a rope jungle in the tubs and on the floor of the pond where they have grown out of the tubs. The lilies seem to be doing fine and spreading. I will pull the tubers on the floor when they have spread as far as I am willing to permit. The tubs allow us to give each color its own location (deep red, pink, yellow, white) The big-leafed whites from Tom LeBron are doing most of the spreading on the floor. I am interested in anyone's thoughts about dividing or not dividing. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
To divide or not to divide lilies
On Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:03:13 EDT, Jim wrote:
Jan, your thread on lilies tweaked a question in my mind that I thought I would do as a new thread. What is the trade off between dividing lilies and just letting them grow their tubers? We have not divided ours for years. We have a rope jungle in the tubs and on the floor of the pond where they have grown out of the tubs. The lilies seem to be doing fine and spreading. I will pull the tubers on the floor when they have spread as far as I am willing to permit. The tubs allow us to give each color its own location (deep red, pink, yellow, white) The big-leafed whites from Tom LeBron are doing most of the spreading on the floor. I am interested in anyone's thoughts about dividing or not dividing. My thoughts on dividing. When I don't do it every year it is a much bigger job when I eventually do, do it. I'm also selling the babies to afford the hobby. Thus I sort of have to get'er done. I went to a meeting where I'm sure they hadn't divided their lilies, they were bigger than mine and blooming like crazy. If they jumped the pot this gives them the ability to keep on growing and blooming. The problem lies when they can't jump the pot, and get stifled up against the side of it. Stopping most growth and all blooming (so I've read). Personally, if you don't have to divide and growing along the floor isn't a big concern (isn't trapping debris to the point of being unhealthy for the inhabitants) let them go. I would think eventually you'd want to get rid of the dead tuber part(s)? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
To divide or not to divide lilies
Here is what Mastersons says in their online item. I may want to
divide my colored ones that have not jumped the pot.. dividing hardy water lilies Hardy water lilies should be divided every two to three years, depending on the size of the container they are growing in. Early spring is the best time, but hardy lilies can be divided any time during the growing season. Check your lilies. If the pots are bulging out at the sides, or the lily tubers are hanging out over the top of the pot, it is time to divide. You may also notice smaller and fewer leaves and flowers, this can also be a sign that it is time to divide and repot. The best container is a five to seven gallon pot that is wide and shallow. Here are five easy steps to get your lilies growing and blooming again: β Carefully remove the plant from its existing pot (you may have to cut the old pot away). Gently wash the soil away with a garden hose to expose the tuber, roots and growing tips. β Examine the tuber, you will see the newer growth on one end that includes leaves, flower buds and roots. Often there will be more than one end with good growth and roots. Select the best looking piece(s) and cut to 3-5β long with a sharp knife, keeping the end with good roots and top growth. Trim off excess roots (leave the white, emerging roots), all older and damaged leaves and all flower buds. The βnewβ plant must put most of its energy into developing a new root system, not making leaves and flowers right away. β Partially fill your container with an aquatic soil or heavy garden soil, not traditional potting soil that includes peat and vermiculite or perlite. If there are large holes in your pot, line it with burlap or weed fabric first to keep the soil from washing out through the holes. Push the tuber down into the soil at a 45 degree angle, with the cut end down and near the side of the pot. This will provide the most room for your new plant to grow. Place three aquatic fertilizer tablets, into the soil about half way down, equally spaced around the pot. Add more soil as necessary, press it around the tuber and roots but do not cover the growing tips. Finally, add a layer of pea gravel on top, this will help to keep your fish from digging at the roots and will hold the soil in place. β Slowly submerge the pot into your pond. It is best to start it in shallow water (6-12β) until the first few new leaves appear, it can then be lowered to depths up to three feet. You will likely notice a little cloudiness in the water from the soil but this will settle out quickly. β Fertilize your lilies every four weeks during the growing season w ith 3-4 tablets. Push the tablets 1-2β down into the soil, away from t he tuber. Remove spent flower buds and old leaves throughout the season as necessary. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Lilies - Lilies-Red_5688.jpg (1/1) | Garden Photos | |||
Lilies - Lilies-Red_5684.jpg (1/1) | Garden Photos | |||
Lilies: - Lilies-Stargazer-CU.jpg (1/1) | Garden Photos | |||
PEACE LILIES WITH NO LILIES | United Kingdom | |||
When to divide lilies? | Ponds |