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Light Kit Transformers
Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .
If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
I run a 12v pond light from a Malibu timer that powers my low voltage
garden lights. Just be careful not to exceed the total wattage of the transformer. The pond light uses a 20 watt bulb. "stricks760" wrote in message news:yUIPa.97$Ze.73@fed1read03... Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
stricks760 wrote:
If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Absolutely. Although, I bought a 300w malibu transformer for, I think about $100. After 2 months it died. Home depot is a great place. I took it back, got another. Two months later - poof. One more time; two months later - yup. So I bought a different brand (300w for $48) still going strong. Can't remember the manufacturer, but email me privately and I'll go look. Joe -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
Light Kit Transformers
stricks760 wrote: Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! it will work just make sure its output is rated for the total wattagge of your pond lites and a bit more -- John Rutz Z5 New Mexico never miss a good oportunity to shut up see my pond at: http://www.fuerjefe.com |
Light Kit Transformers
The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because
they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC) can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is a really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that any wire splicing is done well away from the water. I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last year. I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright LEDs. On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760" wrote: Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely
submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of lexan, maybe. I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that. wrote in message ... The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC) can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is a really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that any wire splicing is done well away from the water. I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last year. I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright LEDs. On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760" wrote: Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED
lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting resistor built in. I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC. The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall. On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 12:56:54 -0400, "Hank Pagel" wrote: I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of lexan, maybe. I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that. wrote in message .. . The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC) can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is a really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that any wire splicing is done well away from the water. I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last year. I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright LEDs. On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760" wrote: Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
Thanks, Potting would be alot easier than a housing and a lot less
buoyant and noticeable in the daytime. wrote in message ... for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting resistor built in. I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC. The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall. On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 12:56:54 -0400, "Hank Pagel" wrote: I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of lexan, maybe. I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that. wrote in message .. . The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC) can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is a really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that any wire splicing is done well away from the water. I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last year. I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright LEDs. On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760" wrote: Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . .. . If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home Depot, can I run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.) The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get real pondlights. Thanks again! |
Light Kit Transformers
Actually, the Sunbrite lamp replcament LEDs even have the diode built
into the package... On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 01:59:32 -0500, "malcolm" wrote: best to put an inverse parallel diode across the LEDs too, and an inline fuse so if the supply get reversed the fuse goes not the LEDs regards malcolm -- ¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·. ¸ LED Headlamps and Sea Fishing UK http://www.geocities.com/malc_hurn http://groups.yahoo.com/group/seafishinguk http://www.brockstock.org.uk ¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·. ¸ wrote in message .. . for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting resistor built in. I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC. The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall. |
Light Kit Transformers
good product then
wrote in message ... Actually, the Sunbrite lamp replcament LEDs even have the diode built into the package... On Sun, 13 Jul 2003 01:59:32 -0500, "malcolm" wrote: best to put an inverse parallel diode across the LEDs too, and an inline fuse so if the supply get reversed the fuse goes not the LEDs regards malcolm -- ¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·. ¸ LED Headlamps and Sea Fishing UK http://www.geocities.com/malc_hurn http://groups.yahoo.com/group/seafishinguk http://www.brockstock.org.uk ¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸((((º.·´¯`·. ¸ wrote in message .. . for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting resistor built in. I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC. The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall. |
Light Kit Transformers
from the past....
wrote: for my LED lights I use a cluster of four Sunbrite mini-wedge 10mm LED lamp replacements. The Sunbrite mini-wedge LEDs are packaged to replace a 12V bulb and hence have the appropriate current limiting resistor built in. I parallel the cluster of four together, then pot them and the power cable in a waterproof epoxy resin. The waterproof resin, which I use is not clear, so I leave the top 1/4" of the LEDs protruding. Each LED produces 1600 mcd with merely 20ma of current draw at 12 VDC. The Sunbrite LEDs are available in clear, yellow, red, green, and blue for $1.60 each (I buy them from Digkey). I use two of my cluster lights (of the blue ones) to illuminate my waterfall. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
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