Best bare-root soil ammendments
 

I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for
the most effective soil amendments.

Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of
dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months
before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow
manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the
roses' growth.

Any good recommendations?

Best bare-root soil ammendments
 

I only put a bit of bone meal in the hole, if I use anything as a
fertilizer. As far as soil preparation, it really depends on the type of
soil you have in the first place. I know Pickering roses, who sell a ton of
bare-roots, does not recommend, and, as a matter of fact, sight putting
manure in the hole as possible cause for "failure to thrive".

That being said, if the manure is well aged, the actual nitrogen content is
not very high. Interestingly, when using horse manure, as I do, you need to
be careful that you do not create a nitrogen defiance, as the wood chips
used in the stalls as bedding are high in carbon, which depletes the stores
of nitrogen in the surrounding soil.

The American Rose Society has a bunch of info on soil preparation, so that
would be a good place to look.

Best Regards

Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5


wrote in message
...
I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for
the most effective soil amendments.

Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of
dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months
before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow
manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the
roses' growth.

Any good recommendations?

Best bare-root soil ammendments
 

Here's what Pickering has to say. Note they do say it's OK to use dry, well
decomposed manure.

Before you plant:

a.. Gather the tools, etc. you need; spade, gloves, bucket of water,
garden hose with water turned on.

b.. Decide where the plants are going to be planted.

c.. Prepare the Planting Area or Rose Bed. Ideally one should prepare the
bed about 3 weeks prior to planting. Roses prefer a fairly rich clay based
soil that is well drained. They also benefit from generous amounts of
organic matter; peatmoss, compost, or well rotted (or Packaged) manure mixed
into the soil. The area should have about 18" of good soil mixture for best
results. If you are planting roses in an existing garden you should prepare
each location prior to planting.

d.. Dig and prepare the holes. Dig the holes about 18 inches deep and
wide, mix in a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate at the bottom of the
hole. You CAN omit the bonemeal if you're going to use a plant starter
solution after planting). DO NOT USE GRANULAR ROSE FOOD AT PLANTING TIME, IT
WILL KILL THE ROSE.

Ready to Plant:

Bare Root Plants - Place in a bucket of water while you're working, removing
only the one that will be immediately planted. If you can't fit all the
plants in the bucket, leave the remaining ones sealed in the bag in a cool
place out of the sun.

Established Potted roses - When removing containers TAKE CARE NOT TO DISTURB
THE ROOT BALL. Place the rose in the hole setting the union AT LEAST 2
INCHES BELOW THE SURFACE of the garden. This is imperative in zone 6 and
colder as it affords the plant extra protection in the winter, in warmer
climates the union may be placed level with the surface. You may plant
deeper if you wish.

*Some of our customers in Minnesota and Manitoba plant as deep as 6 inches
below the surface with great success.

Back fill the hole and compress the soil with your foot. Packing it down
with your hands isn't good enough as it doesn't eliminate air pockets.

Water the plants thoroughly with plain water or you may use a plant starter
solution but DO NOT USE ROSE FOOD AS IT WILL BURN THE ROOTS.

Back fill the remaining depressed area with more soil and ensure that the
union is covered by at least 2".

For early (or late) season planting hill the plants up with a mound of soil
about 10" deep. This protects the plant for the winter or if planting in the
spring, protects the plant from drying out while it sets roots. Remove after
2 weeks.

http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/planting.htm



Jeff, Southeast Michigan, zone 5 (and its colder than a well digger's butt!)



wrote in message
...
I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for
the most effective soil amendments.

Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of
dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months
before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow
manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the
roses' growth.

Any good recommendations?

Best bare-root soil ammendments
 

On Feb 20, 3:01 pm, "Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote:
Here's what Pickering has to say. Note they do say it's OK to use dry, well
decomposed manure.

Before you plant:

a.. Gather the tools, etc. you need; spade, gloves, bucket of water,
garden hose with water turned on.

b.. Decide where the plants are going to be planted.

c.. Prepare the Planting Area or Rose Bed. Ideally one should prepare the
bed about 3 weeks prior to planting. Roses prefer a fairly rich clay based
soil that is well drained. They also benefit from generous amounts of
organic matter; peatmoss, compost, or well rotted (or Packaged) manure mixed
into the soil. The area should have about 18" of good soil mixture for best
results. If you are planting roses in an existing garden you should prepare
each location prior to planting.

d.. Dig and prepare the holes. Dig the holes about 18 inches deep and
wide, mix in a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate at the bottom of the
hole. You CAN omit the bonemeal if you're going to use a plant starter
solution after planting). DO NOT USE GRANULAR ROSE FOOD AT PLANTING TIME, IT
WILL KILL THE ROSE.

Ready to Plant:

Bare Root Plants - Place in a bucket of water while you're working, removing
only the one that will be immediately planted. If you can't fit all the
plants in the bucket, leave the remaining ones sealed in the bag in a cool
place out of the sun.

Established Potted roses - When removing containers TAKE CARE NOT TO DISTURB
THE ROOT BALL. Place the rose in the hole setting the union AT LEAST 2
INCHES BELOW THE SURFACE of the garden. This is imperative in zone 6 and
colder as it affords the plant extra protection in the winter, in warmer
climates the union may be placed level with the surface. You may plant
deeper if you wish.

*Some of our customers in Minnesota and Manitoba plant as deep as 6 inches
below the surface with great success.

Back fill the hole and compress the soil with your foot. Packing it down
with your hands isn't good enough as it doesn't eliminate air pockets.

Water the plants thoroughly with plain water or you may use a plant starter
solution but DO NOT USE ROSE FOOD AS IT WILL BURN THE ROOTS.

Back fill the remaining depressed area with more soil and ensure that the
union is covered by at least 2".

For early (or late) season planting hill the plants up with a mound of soil
about 10" deep. This protects the plant for the winter or if planting in the
spring, protects the plant from drying out while it sets roots. Remove after
2 weeks.

http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/planting.htm

Jeff, Southeast Michigan, zone 5 (and its colder than a well digger's butt!)

wrote in message

...

I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for
the most effective soil amendments.

Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of
dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months
before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow
manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the
roses' growth.

Any good recommendations?

I have a follow up. You posted that I shouldn't use granular food
when planting a bare root rose. How long after the rose has been
planted can I begin to add the food?

I use the Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose fertilizer, but they indicate you
can place it in the ground at planting. I want to get the roses off
to a good start, but I really want to also have some color this year
too.

Best bare-root soil ammendments
 

I'd give the plant at least 4 weeks before feeding. And I'd go light at
first. The risk here is that the nitrogen will burn the young feeder roots,
which is not so good. Some say after the first bloom. Right now water is
the most important thing. Some every day or so. Nothing you do will make
the first flush outstanding, but if you avoid stressing the roses by feeding
too soon, the root systems will establish, and by mid summer you'll be glad
you went easy.

Next year, you can start feeding soon after new growth appears and every 6
weeks there after until 6 weeks before the first hard frost of fall is
scheduled.

Gook luck

Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5


I have a follow up. You posted that I shouldn't use granular food
when planting a bare root rose. How long after the rose has been
planted can I begin to add the food?

I use the Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose fertilizer, but they indicate you
can place it in the ground at planting. I want to get the roses off
to a good start, but I really want to also have some color this year
too.