Fertilizing
We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about
fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? |
Fertilizing
"Shiva" wrote in message news:fc9bbe888b2a92c16943ce7ba93557c0@TeraNews... We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? Remember when you were little, and your Mom would always tell you, "leave that alone, quit picking at it"? And did you ever leave it alone? Nope. So, I don't know about anyone else, but I know that I sure can't stop picking at my roses for 9 months at a time. Whether they NEED it or not is a purely academic question, as far as I'm concerned. JimS. Seattle |
Fertilizing
Xref: kermit rec.gardens.roses:92564
JimS. wrote: Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? Remember when you were little, and your Mom would always tell you, "leave that alone, quit picking at it"? And did you ever leave it alone? Nope. So, I don't know about anyone else, but I know that I sure can't stop picking at my roses for 9 months at a time. Whether they NEED it or not is a purely academic question, as far as I'm concerned. Hee! Great Answer. But if JB is right, those of us who are having trouble doing more than tossing Osmocote at them in passing and watering can feel better. JimS. Seattle |
Fertilizing
JimS. wrote:
"Shiva" wrote in message We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? Remember when you were little, and your Mom would always tell you, "leave that alone, quit picking at it"? And did you ever leave it alone? Nope. So, I don't know about anyone else, but I know that I sure can't stop picking at my roses for 9 months at a time. Whether they NEED it or not is a purely academic question, as far as I'm concerned. I agree with Johnny. The temptation is to do something *to* them instead of letting them do it themselves. Except for exhibitors' roses, which need to force bloom to a schedule, roses don't need massive amount of ferts. They grow to their genetically determined schedule and size. A 15 foot rambler doesn't need more ferts to get 15 feet than a 4 foot shrub needs. I think our time is much better spent concentrating on soil tilth and soil chemistry, keeping the pH in the range and keeping the soil healthy. I'm a huge fan of compost for roses. Unfortunately, it's a lot more work than fertilizer in a plastic jar. |
Fertilizing
We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about
fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? Several thoughts on this: Most nine month fertilizer doesn't last 9 months in warm climates. It is designed for soil at a specific temerature, too cool and it feeds more slowly, to warm and it breaks down very quickly. In the summer it will only last about three months in my soil. Bethal Farms does produce a slow-release made for warmer soils that may work better, but you have to look for it. Most people buy the Osmocote and it does not last here. It has been my experience that better fed roses are more disease resistant. I've found a regular monthly application of fertilizer does as much to prevent blackspot as weekly spraying. The combination of fertilizer and spray is the only way I can keep BS somewhat under control on the HTs. In easier climates there may not be as significant difference, but it does help here. I don't use only synthetic fertilizer, but try to rotate the applications just like I do fungicides. One month they get a synthetic, the next something organic. This way I feel I'm feeding the soil as well as the roses. My 2 cents worth, your mileage may vary. Julie |
Fertilizing
In fc9bbe888b2a92c16943ce7ba93557c0@TeraNews Shiva wrote:
Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? It depends on what you want from the roses. If you want regular flushes of large blooms on strong stems, you need a lot more than that. I've been using the 'Roses Superfeeder' version of Osmocote for years now, and at best it's maintenance therapy. Good for mixing into the planting soil. I use a combination of organic and chemical foods to bring out the best from my bushes. Some have reached more than 6 feet tall in their first year and their performance is excellent. My ideas are at: http://members.optushome.com.au/djhanna/ under the heading 'Cultivation'. |
Fertilizing
I know all the rose 'guides' say feed 'em every month w/ osmocote or what ever latest drug is in fashion. I'd like to make a case for the opposite. I do not use any chemical ferts. The only thing I feed 'em is Fish emulsion. Table spoon in a Gallon every month. So much easier than moving mulch, scratching earth, etc. Recently I've cheated a bit. I add Mills 'magic' Mix to couple of roses. Havn't seen any perceptible difference. Most of my roses are just weighed down w/ blooms & buds right now. -- Theo in Zone 5 Kansas City "Unique Too" wrote in message ... We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? Several thoughts on this: Most nine month fertilizer doesn't last 9 months in warm climates. It is designed for soil at a specific temerature, too cool and it feeds more slowly, to warm and it breaks down very quickly. In the summer it will only last about three months in my soil. Bethal Farms does produce a slow-release made for warmer soils that may work better, but you have to look for it. Most people buy the Osmocote and it does not last here. It has been my experience that better fed roses are more disease resistant. I've found a regular monthly application of fertilizer does as much to prevent blackspot as weekly spraying. The combination of fertilizer and spray is the only way I can keep BS somewhat under control on the HTs. In easier climates there may not be as significant difference, but it does help here. I don't use only synthetic fertilizer, but try to rotate the applications just like I do fungicides. One month they get a synthetic, the next something organic. This way I feel I'm feeding the soil as well as the roses. My 2 cents worth, your mileage may vary. Julie |
Fertilizing
"Shiva" wrote in message
news:fc9bbe888b2a92c16943ce7ba93557c0@TeraNews... We are having a discussion at Gardenweb in the Roses forum about fertilizing. Someone quoted Johnny Becnel (SP!) as saying most of us overferilize. He apparently feeds a nine-month slow release and lets the roses rely on mulch breakdown aside from that and a single application of organics early in the season. Thoughts? I almost never use any synthetic fertilizer, and I get a sufficient volume of blooms, enough to keep me happy. In the winter, I sprinkle bone meal and blood meal around the base of the roses, then pile composted steer manure around the base as well. Then every two weeks I clean the filter for my pond, and I just dump all the muck and algae around the roses as well. Better to feed the plants with the muck then to dump down the storm drain. Works extremely well for me. |
Fertilizing
On Wed, 14 May 2003 17:21:07 GMT, "Snooze"
wrote: I almost never use any synthetic fertilizer, and I get a sufficient volume of blooms, enough to keep me happy. In the winter, I sprinkle bone meal and blood meal around the base of the roses, then pile composted steer manure around the base as well. Then every two weeks I clean the filter for my pond, and I just dump all the muck and algae around the roses as well. Better to feed the plants with the muck then to dump down the storm drain. Works extremely well for me. You know, this echos the current trend in human nutrition science that holds that "whole" foods have a greater overall benefit, although we have only begun to understand what substances in them bring the benefit. Roses fed only whole fertilizers may also benefit from the lack of salt(s) found in synthetic fertilizers. |
Fertilizing
In a9e253c1b1958e0212c28af7749e6e4a@TeraNews Shiva wrote:
You know, this echos the current trend in human nutrition science that holds that "whole" foods have a greater overall benefit, although we have only begun to understand what substances in them bring the benefit. Roses fed only whole fertilizers may also benefit from the lack of salt(s) found in synthetic fertilizers. At the end of the day, feeding roses ANYTHING involves adding chemicals to the soil they are growing in. With artificial fertilisers you are feeding roses what we gather are the main ingredients (NPK and trace elements). Organics have the advantage of added extras, some no doubt yet to be discovered by research. They can also have beneficial hormones and microbacteria. Their downside is that they can miss some basic necessities for plant growth and imbalance soil just as easily as artificial fertilisers. Three examples: (a) Blood 'n' bone (aka bone meal) is great for slow release nitrogen and calcium. Hopeless for phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, magnesium and other things roses need. (b) Chicken manure has plenty of nitrogen and phosphorus. It's also acidic enough to whack soil out of balance. (c) Seaweed, by contrast, will never imbalance soil and it has trace levels of just about every element including gold and selenium. It also has a lot of plant hormones that promote root growth. But its nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium components are also only at trace level, not enough to sustain a rose bush. I've therefore come to the conclusion that the best diet for roses is a combination of artificial and organic. Relying on either exclusively creates gaps, either in the main elements or in trace elements and hormones. |
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