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Forced to move Rose bush, how to prevent shock?
Roseburg, Oregon is the home of my grandfather's
two roses. His old property will sell soon and I want to transplant them 2 hours drive north to Jefferson Oregon, zone 6. Obviously speed is the answer, get them back in the ground, and I'll have the holes prepared, but this is obviously not the preferred time of year to do this move, but I have no choice.. do it now or loose them forever. I'm new to roses and would appreciate guidance on exactly how to go about this transplant so as to (almost) guaranty success since they have sentimental value. These monsters, which I do not have identified, are at least 40 years old with large root mass I'm sure and thick stocks by now, haven't been pruned in ages, overgrown etc. Any suggestions are appreciated on proper transport packaging to prevent shock, and even some kind words of wisdom on the fertilizers/prep I should do to prevent shock when replanting at this time of year. What if there is root rot, how should I handle that at this time of year? Rinse the roots and cut the old stuff out? Don't rinse the roots? I don't know what's wise. The transport can be in my air conditioned SUV, or if you think it would be better for some reason I can throw them on a small trailer wrapped up in tarps (to prevent wind damage and sun damage), again I dont know what would be best for the plants so please advise. Thanks! -Brendan Jefferson Oregon |
#2
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Forced to move Rose bush, how to prevent shock?
Hello Brendan,
Yes, this is indeed the least of all favorable times to move roses even here in Oregon. But you can do well by them if you follow some simple rules. If you can do this the day before moving the roses make sure they are well watered. Regardless of the size of the rose bush and of the roots, you will have to cut the canes down by about 2/3s of the present size, providing you can dig as much root as that from the ground. In other words, your canes should be proportionately in length to the width of the root system. They are two ways of transporting roses: one is the French method used to keep bareroots from drying out, and it is called pralinage. I have used this method for over 30 years and it works wonderfully well for me. What you need is soil, steer manure and water to mix together a slurry, thick enough to coat the roots of the rose.( Use the soil from your home to make the slurry, the same soil the rose is going to grow from now on, not the one where they are now). You need to mix equal parts of garden soil (preferably clay which we have abundance of in Oregon) and manure and add as I said just enough water to make a thick, but pourable slurry. For a couple of roses that size your best bet is to mix it in a plastic garbage can or some such where you can dip the roots into the slurry. The first thing you have to do is to take all the leaves off the rose; this is important in order not to stress the bush anymore than necessary. Then prune the rose to remove all dead or dried canes, or anything that may appear to have either brown or black stems. Take all the foliage off. Make sure that if your rootball is for instance 36 inch, the length of your canes do not exceed lets say, 24 inch. What you may lose in bloom this year if they bloom on old wood you will regain in good health and restoration to the plant. Next dig the rose out, and try to get as much of the root ball as possible. Since the soil in your grandfather's home may be different than that in your own and the pH may vary, the next thing you want to do is to wash the roots of most of the soil. When most of the soil is off, put the rose into the pralinage, until the entire root is well covered. Let them soak for about 1 hour or more. Then set the plant on some newspapers and let it dry. Yes, let it dry. (You can do this in the morning early and then go off until after lunch, that is what we do) What the pralinage does is to keep the roots from dehydrating at the same time that it will make the perfect foil for the new soil. It is guaranteed that there are not going to be air pockets or anything else that will impede your roses from growing happily in their new home. By using this system you can avoid the weight of wet soil which would make it very cumbersome and nearly always a problem when trying to move big roses to adapt to their new grounds. Once planted in your home, the pralinage will make a perfect "bond" with the surrounding soil in the new hole and the manure in the pralinage will be a nutritious "nursery" for the new root hairs that will grow over this summer after you transplant that rose. Or you can use the ball and burlap method. You will need to lay down a big piece of burlap to protect the roots after digging the rose out. This is a job for at least two people, as you will have to dig all around the root ball and then undercut it. One of you will have to raise the root ball and the other will have to place the wet burlap under the root ball in order to wrap it entirely with it. Have some heavy twine to tie it with and make sure that the burlap is wet. Whichever method you decide to use, you must prune and defoliate the plant before moving it this time of the year, as although it is not yet summer we are having warmer and warmer days by now. If you decide to use the ball and burlap method, make sure to provide the roses with some manure as well in the new hole, and try not to feed them immediately. I know that we all fret over transplanted roses, but they are resistant if we learn to understand their ways. They need to be fed indeed, but not right away and not a full strength fertilizer of any kind. The simplest way to get them to grow at their own pace is to use a very diluted form of Fish fertilizer for instance in warm water, and feed them this once a month until you see new growth, which should happen relatively soon given the season. After that any good fertilizer will do. But to try to feed them too much too soon is the best way to kill them, with kindness but to kill them nonetheless. I have gone on and on because I know how difficult it is to make the decision to move roses that size. Just remember the elementals: take off all the foliage, cut the canes to about 2/3 the size of the root's diameter and if using the pralinage just wrap the roses in newspapers and don't worry about the two hour trip. We just got an order from Pickering in Ontario Canada of 6 roses, they broke dormancy in transit ( one full week ) and as soon as they got home, dried as prunes, we soaked them in a big bucket of water with some Superthrive and they are already greening. They arrived Wednesday and today is Sunday. Good luck, I am sure your roses will thrive for you, a rescued rose is an even more lovely rose than those we can buy. And don't think for a moment that the rose doesn't know it ;) Allegra in Portland Oregon "Brendan OMara" wrote in message om... Roseburg, Oregon is the home of my grandfather's two roses. His old property will sell soon and I want to transplant them 2 hours drive north to Jefferson Oregon, zone 6. Obviously speed is the answer, get them back in the ground, and I'll have the holes prepared, but this is obviously not the preferred time of year to do this move, but I have no choice.. do it now or loose them forever. I'm new to roses and would appreciate guidance on exactly how to go about this transplant so as to (almost) guaranty success since they have sentimental value. These monsters, which I do not have identified, are at least 40 years old with large root mass I'm sure and thick stocks by now, haven't been pruned in ages, overgrown etc. Any suggestions are appreciated on proper transport packaging to prevent shock, and even some kind words of wisdom on the fertilizers/prep I should do to prevent shock when replanting at this time of year. What if there is root rot, how should I handle that at this time of year? Rinse the roots and cut the old stuff out? Don't rinse the roots? I don't know what's wise. The transport can be in my air conditioned SUV, or if you think it would be better for some reason I can throw them on a small trailer wrapped up in tarps (to prevent wind damage and sun damage), again I dont know what would be best for the plants so please advise. Thanks! -Brendan Jefferson Oregon |
#3
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Forced to move Rose bush, how to prevent shock?
Brendan,
Listen to Allegra, I feel confident her suggestions give the roses their best chance of survival.. But there is one other thing I would do: Take cuttings. There's lots of advice on getting cuttings to root on the internet and it seems each person has his/her own personal favorite. In addition to using which ever method your prefer, I would also give some of the cuttings to someone else for rooting. With roses this precious to you, you want to do everything possible to ensure their presence in your garden. Julie |
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