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#1
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transplanting or moving established rose
I have a spot in my front garden where I have a couple 4ft plantsthat are too
close together. I would like to move them another foot apart but obviously do not want to do so until safe. My thinking is that both are to close and that is what makes both bushes susceptible to fungal diseases. So, when to move them? Late fall or early spring. The latter is a much wetter time for me (Louisville) so I think I would have a limited window to play with, and would likely have to move and mulch over the canes in order to be safe with late frosts. Any ideas for me? This mail is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects. |
#2
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transplanting or moving established rose
"ScoobyRCP" wrote in message ... So, when to move them? Late fall or early spring. The latter is a much wetter time for me (Louisville) so I think I would have a limited window to play with, and would likely have to move and mulch over the canes in order to be safe with late frosts. Wouldn't it be easiest to move them in the early spring, after the canes have been cut back? Has anyone tried winter mulching with styrofoam peanuts used in packing? Not only is styrofoam an excellent insulator, but shouldn't compost the plants if it gets too warm. Zachary Lau W1VT |
#3
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transplanting or moving established rose
Zack, how do you plan to make the styrofoam peanuts stay put??? Even the
slightest breeze would have them all over the neighborhood, I'd think. Sorry, I didn't understand the part about "composting the plants" unless you meant that the plants could die if the weather got too hot. Anne Lurie Raleigh, NC "Zack Lau" wrote in message ... Has anyone tried winter mulching with styrofoam peanuts used in packing? Not only is styrofoam an excellent insulator, but shouldn't compost the plants if it gets too warm. Zachary Lau W1VT |
#4
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transplanting or moving established rose
"Anne Lurie" wrote in message m... Zack, how do you plan to make the styrofoam peanuts stay put??? Even the slightest breeze would have them all over the neighborhood, I'd think. I was thinking wrapping the roses with gunnysack and filling in the air space with peanuts for more insulation. Sorry, I didn't understand the part about "composting the plants" unless you meant that the plants could die if the weather got too hot. I've heard that mulching the plants with leaves can be a bad idea when the weather gets unseasonably warm during the winter--"composting the plants." I think roses get adapted to winter--we only lost one rose that had survived a previous winter. The newly planted roses will get more protection this year Zack Lau W1VT |
#5
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transplanting or moving established rose
In article , Zack Lau
wrote: "ScoobyRCP" wrote in message ... So, when to move them? Late fall or early spring. The latter is a much wetter time for me (Louisville) so I think I would have a limited window to play with, and would likely have to move and mulch over the canes in order to be safe with late frosts. Wouldn't it be easiest to move them in the early spring, after the canes have been cut back? Sorry, I'm not paying attention. Which zone are we talking about? If it isn't colder than say zone 6 or 7, you can move them (a) in early October, after cool weather makes them go dormant. You will essentially be engaging in fall bareroot planting. This is not something I do here in Zone 9, as I don't like bareroot roses, but it works especially well where the winter gets cold and stays cold, like in Canada; or, more commonly, (b) whenever spring pruning season is in your zone, which is the same time you will be preparing for spring bareroot planting. In both case, you need to have the holes already amended and prepared. You will also need to cut the rose back to about 15 inches and remove all the really old canes. You are essentially creating a bareroot rose in your own garden. You must balance the top of the plant with the reduced size of the root mass you are able to manage to move. Many people worry about fall "pruning" inducing new growth, but this is a much more drastic kind of action than topping, and the roses should remain dormant, assuming you don't have a steady run of 75 degree weather after you do it. If that is a possible weather pattern because you live in a mild weather zone, make the move in the middle of winter. Last winter I moved 7 roses this way. The harder I cut back the canes, even of the climbers, the better they look this year. In fact, both of my Westerlands, which happily produces 8 foot canes, are 5 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Eden aka Pierre de Ronsard, has produced an 8 foot climbing cane and a lot of growth to 4 feet. I didn't cut it back hard but should have (it was an experiment). Sunsprite, a smaller plant, floribunda, revelled in the hard pruning is looks better than it ever looked in its life. Joseph's Coat is still in a 10 gallon pot doing fine, plenty of 5 foot canes, which is about what I can expect in a pot. |
#6
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transplanting or moving established rose
"Zack Lau" writes:
I was thinking wrapping the roses with gunnysack and filling in the air space with peanuts for more insulation. Zack, Try wetting some of the peanuts before you fill your bags. In order to be more envionmentaly friendly many of them are not plastic any longer. Now they are made of a starch that disappears when wet. Julie |
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