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Moving Roses
Can anyone advise me of any precaution I should take when moving established roses to a new patch.
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#2
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Moving Roses
Norton wrote:
Can anyone advise me of any precaution I should take when moving established roses to a new patch. This assumes it is the correct time to plant bareroots in your region and that the established roses are large, 6 feet and taller. The fall is the perfect time to plant bareroots in my zone, Zone 9. That makes it the perfect time to transplant as well. 1. Prepare the new home thoroughly, adding lots of organic matter to the soil and a handful of bone meal. Loosen the soil down to 18 inches to 24 inches. The perfect rose hole is 24 x 24. 2. Cut the rose back so the canes are no longer than 2 feet. You are creating a bareroot rose. This can be intimidating but it works. Don't cheat and leave 4 foot canes. It will not improve your rose. 3. Strip off all the leaves. 4. Dig the rose out using a shovel at least 18 inches from the crown of the plant. Don't worry about the small, fine roots. Try to get as much of the very large anchor root as possible, at least 18 inches of it. If you can't dig out a root, cut it with your secateurs. 5. After the rose is out of the soil, balance the size of the top to the size of the bottom. If you need to remove an older cane and limit the total number of canes to 3 to 5, do it. Be heartless and brutal. 5. If you cannot plant the rose immediately or if the conditions are dry, soak the removed rose in a container of water large enough to submerge it until you are ready to plant. 6. Plant it in the new hole with *no* fertilizer. Do not fertilize the rose until after it is fully leafed out with at least 2 inches of vigorous new growth. Do not tamp the soil. Simply water it in. 7. Keep the rose well-watered but not drowned. If it is hot and dry, mound the canes with mulch so that only the tips are exposed. Here is a picture of a 7 x 7 foot rose that I dug up with lots of help last winter. Note that the canes are too long and needed to be cut back just a bit more. http://home.earthlink.net/~cbernstei...s/Bareroot.jpg |
#3
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Moving Roses
Plant it in the new hole with *no* fertilizer.
The rose must have some type of phoshate fertilizer in the hole. It could be rock phospate or super phosphate added per the instructions on the label whatever you nirmally use. Phosphate has to be added to the soil around the roots or it will never get there as it does not readily move through the soil like N does. If applied to the surface it will stay there chemically bound to the soil where it is applied. |
#4
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Moving Roses
In oPYrb.165236$HS4.1342989@attbi_s01 Centifolia wrote:
If applied to the surface it will stay there chemically bound to the soil where it is applied. Well it does move a little, but generally you are right. I mix blood and bone and Osmocote into the planting soil to address this. I'd be pretty cautious about putting superphosphate right onto roots. |
#5
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Moving Roses
"Daniel Hanna" wrote in message home.com.au... In oPYrb.165236$HS4.1342989@attbi_s01 Centifolia wrote: If applied to the surface it will stay there chemically bound to the soil where it is applied. Well it does move a little, but generally you are right. I mix blood and bone and Osmocote into the planting soil to address this. I'd be pretty cautious about putting superphosphate right onto roots. I second that. Chemical fertilizers tend to be much stronger that most plants generally need or can use. IIRC phosphates have a tendency to get chemically bonded as they percolate through the soil. Mixing it in at the time of planting may address a short term need but is not a long term solution. It might therefore be more useful to use an organic feed like fish emulsion that chemically bonds the phosphate as it percolates till it breaks down slowly allowing a more natural uptake. Yes, a dose of chem ferts can produce lush growth but like steroids it can also do damage. -- Theo in KC Z5 |
#6
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Moving Roses
"Centifolia" wrote: Plant it in the new hole with *no* fertilizer. The rose must have some type of phoshate fertilizer in the hole...Phosphate has to be added to the soil around the roots or it will never get there as it does not readily move through the soil like N does.... Maybe I should be happy that I live in Florida phosphate country: pH 4.5, phosphate off the scale according to soil tests of the black sand/clay mix on much of my land. Even moribund bushes put out blooms before dying. Flip side: no other major nutrients in the soil. I've been known to do strange things, such as urinate next to treasured plants to give them nitrogenous goodies, or chuck potassium chloride water-softener pellets (don't try this with regular salt pellets!) over their roots. Luckily, one can also buy fertilizers with the middle number (phosphorus) 2 or even 0, at least around here. Mark., now to try mycorrhizal stuff again, easy on the fertilizer |
#7
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Moving Roses
"Norton" wrote in message s.com... Can anyone advise me of any precaution I should take when moving established roses to a new patch. -- Norton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ posted via www.GardenBanter.co.uk |
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