I am looking for climbing roses for a Northwest exposure in Zone 7
(Missouri to be more specific). We are planning a trellis against a 2
story stone house. The sun will be rough during the summer, but are
hoping for something that will survive and grow to help shade the
house in a few years. Ivy is too intrusive for the mortar and doesn't
bloom.

Obviously I want the "perfect" rose. Hardy, repeat blooms, tall
growth, disease resistant. Does such a plant exist, or am I being
unnecessarily optimistic.

Currently the temperature is 7 F. Winter maintenance would probably
be restricted to pruning and mulching. Summer temps get over 100 F.
The first couple of years, until it is established, we can protect it
from the direct sun, but it will still get reflection and residual
heat from the house.

Does anyone have any suggestions? We would prefer pink, white,
possibly red. Most catalogs offer suggestions and I've researched
some in your group. How important is own root as opposed to grafted,
and how does a person find out from a grower?, etc.

To add a note of humor, I don't want much, I want it all.

Nancy G.

Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

Yes such roses exist.
In my experience own root is vital.

A north west exposure is probably not ideal as
rose need as much sun as they can get 4-6 hours min.
Most recomendationsare for a south east exposure
or the exact opposite of your situation.

On the other hand a fairly exposed north west exposure
might provide enough light. It up to you to judge. Roses in low light
conditions grow much slower and are more disease prone.

The absolute first choice should be New Dawn a pink favorite.
Cecile brunner climbing another pink could be a backup.

For other colors checkout the vast range of Noisette roses.
They should be hardy enough for Zone 7. They are slightly more
disease prone but their vigor more than compensates.

I know of few reds that satisfy your requirements.
Lavender lassie is lavender and Dublin bay
is not very robust on its own roots and is not tall.

Altissimo is a large single incredible rose. It often gets
passed over cos its single but it satifies all your criteria to a 'T'.


--
Theo

in KC Z5



wrote in message
om...
I am looking for climbing roses for a Northwest exposure in Zone 7
(Missouri to be more specific). We are planning a trellis against a 2
story stone house. The sun will be rough during the summer, but are
hoping for something that will survive and grow to help shade the
house in a few years. Ivy is too intrusive for the mortar and doesn't
bloom.

Obviously I want the "perfect" rose. Hardy, repeat blooms, tall
growth, disease resistant. Does such a plant exist, or am I being
unnecessarily optimistic.

Currently the temperature is 7 F. Winter maintenance would probably
be restricted to pruning and mulching. Summer temps get over 100 F.
The first couple of years, until it is established, we can protect it
from the direct sun, but it will still get reflection and residual
heat from the house.

Does anyone have any suggestions? We would prefer pink, white,
possibly red. Most catalogs offer suggestions and I've researched
some in your group. How important is own root as opposed to grafted,
and how does a person find out from a grower?, etc.

To add a note of humor, I don't want much, I want it all.

Nancy G.

Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

Yes such roses exist.
In my experience own root is vital.

A north west exposure is probably not ideal as
rose need as much sun as they can get 4-6 hours min.
Most recomendationsare for a south east exposure
or the exact opposite of your situation.

On the other hand a fairly exposed north west exposure
might provide enough light. It up to you to judge. Roses in low light
conditions grow much slower and are more disease prone.

The absolute first choice should be New Dawn a pink favorite.
Cecile brunner climbing another pink could be a backup.

For other colors checkout the vast range of Noisette roses.
They should be hardy enough for Zone 7. They are slightly more
disease prone but their vigor more than compensates.

I know of few reds that satisfy your requirements.
Lavender lassie is lavender and Dublin bay
is not very robust on its own roots and is not tall.

Altissimo is a large single incredible rose. It often gets
passed over cos its single but it satifies all your criteria to a 'T'.


--
Theo

in KC Z5



wrote in message
om...
I am looking for climbing roses for a Northwest exposure in Zone 7
(Missouri to be more specific). We are planning a trellis against a 2
story stone house. The sun will be rough during the summer, but are
hoping for something that will survive and grow to help shade the
house in a few years. Ivy is too intrusive for the mortar and doesn't
bloom.

Obviously I want the "perfect" rose. Hardy, repeat blooms, tall
growth, disease resistant. Does such a plant exist, or am I being
unnecessarily optimistic.

Currently the temperature is 7 F. Winter maintenance would probably
be restricted to pruning and mulching. Summer temps get over 100 F.
The first couple of years, until it is established, we can protect it
from the direct sun, but it will still get reflection and residual
heat from the house.

Does anyone have any suggestions? We would prefer pink, white,
possibly red. Most catalogs offer suggestions and I've researched
some in your group. How important is own root as opposed to grafted,
and how does a person find out from a grower?, etc.

To add a note of humor, I don't want much, I want it all.

Nancy G.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:02:11 GMT, "Theo"
wrote:

Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

She must be in the very tip of the bootheel if she's in zone 7
(Pemiscott or part of Dunklin).

At least this is by the old map. Maybe the new proposed zone map has
zone 7 extending further into the state.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:02:11 GMT, "Theo"
wrote:

Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

She must be in the very tip of the bootheel if she's in zone 7
(Pemiscott or part of Dunklin).

At least this is by the old map. Maybe the new proposed zone map has
zone 7 extending further into the state.

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:02:11 GMT, "Theo"
wrote:

Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

She must be in the very tip of the bootheel if she's in zone 7
(Pemiscott or part of Dunklin).

At least this is by the old map. Maybe the new proposed zone map has
zone 7 extending further into the state.

"Theo" wrote in message ws.com...
Hi Nancy,

I grow roses up here in Kansas City.
Where ats are you?

Warsaw. Just moved here from Alabama, so I probably mesed up on the
zone. The weather here is a little milder than Kansas City. What do
you grow with reasonable expectations of success?

Yes such roses exist.
In my experience own root is vital.

A north west exposure is probably not ideal as
rose need as much sun as they can get 4-6 hours min.
Most recomendationsare for a south east exposure
or the exact opposite of your situation.

On the other hand a fairly exposed north west exposure
might provide enough light. It up to you to judge. Roses in low light
conditions grow much slower and are more disease prone.

I know, but we have trees are on the south east. The only shade the
roses would have in the location I have in mind would be from the
house during the morning. Afternoon is full sun. Would be a harsh
transition in temperature and light during that time of day. They
would also be exposed to prevailing winds year round, hot and cold.

The absolute first choice should be New Dawn a pink favorite.
Cecile brunner climbing another pink could be a backup.

I was planning on a recommendation for the coldest zone I could get.
Probably got the zone wrong as I said, but even in Northern Alabama it
would get cold enough to do damage, especially if the temperature drop
came off a mild spell. You had to watch for breaks in dormancy there,
but there was significant chilling.

For other colors checkout the vast range of Noisette roses.
They should be hardy enough for Zone 7. They are slightly more
disease prone but their vigor more than compensates.

I know of few reds that satisfy your requirements.
Lavender lassie is lavender and Dublin bay
is not very robust on its own roots and is not tall.

Altissimo is a large single incredible rose. It often gets
passed over cos its single but it satifies all your criteria to a 'T'.


--
Theo

in KC Z5

Thank you,

Nancy G.

On 27 Jan 2004 17:32:50 -0800, wrote:

On the other hand a fairly exposed north west exposure
might provide enough light. It up to you to judge. Roses in low light
conditions grow much slower and are more disease prone.

I know, but we have trees are on the south east. The only shade the
roses would have in the location I have in mind would be from the
house during the morning. Afternoon is full sun. Would be a harsh
transition in temperature and light during that time of day. They
would also be exposed to prevailing winds year round, hot and cold.

Still, this isn't optimum. Your rose won't flourish, although it
should do pretty well. Most roses really need the 6 or 8 hours of
strong sunlight and do better if it's 8 hours+. 6 hours is just barely
enough, and you really shouldn't reasonably count the sun after about
5 in the summer (IMHO).

I planted Sombreuil on a due east side of my house (no shade). It gets
sun from sunrise until about 1 pm when the house shades it. This is
really only about 5 hours of strong sun (from about 8 until 1). It's
done "OK" but it hasn't really flourished (and Sombreuil is a pretty
quick grower).

I'm not trying to discourage you and if you want a *really* quick
cover that might not mind a some morning shade, I'd recommend Cecile
Brunner (Cl). It's a polyantha with very small white blooms. There is
some controversy regarding a couple of different plants named CD (Cl)
in regards to the reblooming. There is one plant that only blooms once
but mine stays in almost constant bloom during the entire blooming
season, with only the occasional rest. I got mine from Antique Rose
Emporium in Texas. Most climbers need at least three years to *really*
start getting extensive, but this plant exploded for me the third year
(second year wasn't bad either). Here's a picture of a full blown one
growing up a wall:

http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/climbers/cecile.html

PS, I wouldn't assume that the plant pictured is only 3 years old. I
think that Paul unintentionally gives that idea with his text
(although maybe he *was* saying that it's 3 years old - I just know
that *mine* isn't that extensive quite yet).

Here are some pic of mine growing up a dead sugar maple in full sun in
its third season (Nashville Zone 6b). The first is March 31st of this
year (third season):

http://www.pbase.com/image/25547956

This is August 11th of the same year:

http://www.pbase.com/image/25548010

The "canopy" on April 30th

http://www.pbase.com/image/25547372

The "canopy" on May 6th:

http://www.pbase.com/image/25548102

Panicles growing from the base on June 8th:

http://www.pbase.com/image/25547303

And this is what it looked like a couple of months after planting, way
back when:

http://www.pbase.com/image/25548741

As a size reference, the v notch on the tree is about 5 feet off the
ground.

Hope this helps...

Dave can you remind me again where
you got your Cecile brunner.

There might be a climbing location coming open
in my yard.

--
Theo

in KC Z5


http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/climbers/cecile.html

PS, I wouldn't assume that the plant pictured is only 3 years old. I
think that Paul unintentionally gives that idea with his text
(although maybe he *was* saying that it's 3 years old - I just know
that *mine* isn't that extensive quite yet).

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:17:08 GMT, "Theo"
wrote:

Dave can you remind me again where
you got your Cecile brunner.

There might be a climbing location coming open
in my yard.

Antique Rose Emporium.

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:17:08 GMT, "Theo"
wrote:

Dave can you remind me again where
you got your Cecile brunner.

There might be a climbing location coming open
in my yard.

Antique Rose Emporium.