Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with insecticides
or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help and
I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Welcome to the group.

I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin
in that group.

Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible.
Likes water regularly, as do all roses.

Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and
support the flexible canes.

I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't
get anything else to grow that spot kinda way.

I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly
for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays.
They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids
do get diseases.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...
Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.
I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with
insecticides
or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help
and
I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Welcome to the group.

I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin
in that group.

Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible.
Likes water regularly, as do all roses.

Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and
support the flexible canes.

I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't
get anything else to grow that spot kinda way.

I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly
for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays.
They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids
do get diseases.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...
Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.
I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with
insecticides
or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help
and
I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Welcome to the group.

I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin
in that group.

Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible.
Likes water regularly, as do all roses.

Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and
support the flexible canes.

I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't
get anything else to grow that spot kinda way.

I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly
for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays.
They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids
do get diseases.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...
Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.
I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with
insecticides
or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help
and
I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Welcome to the group.

I grow Henrey Kelsy and William Baffin
in that group.

Baffin grows HUGE and is almost indestructible.
Likes water regularly, as do all roses.

Kelsey is more creeper so you have to train and
support the flexible canes.

I also grow Stanwell perp. in a sort of I can't
get anything else to grow that spot kinda way.

I don't grow too many rugosas. They grow too slowly
for my taste. You are right they don't take to sprays.
They are mostly disease free but some of the hybrids
do get diseases.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...
Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.
I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with
insecticides
or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help
and
I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Theo wrote:
Welcome to the group.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the
compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the
same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings?
Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it?
I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above
ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again
Theo for the welcome.
Sharon in MN


in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...

Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.

I

bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with

insecticides

or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help

and

I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Theo wrote:
Welcome to the group.

As far as fertilizers I think the recommendation
for a long time on this group has been to use time
release pellet fertlizers like osmocote.
The other recommendation is to go to fish emulsion.
If you can get over the stinkiness (which just lasts a day)
I highly recommend it. I only have to feed 2-3 times a year.

--
Theo

Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the
compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at the
same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings?
Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it?
I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above
ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again
Theo for the welcome.
Sharon in MN


in KC Z5

"Sharon Capps" wrote in message
...

Hello, my name is Sharon and I live in MN zone 4 is what they say. I am
new to roses and have purchased a few roses from Veseys and I am awaiting
their arrival. I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual.

I

bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy? I also read that Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with

insecticides

or liquid fertilizer. Can a person put a liquid mixed fertilizer around
the base after watering or should you water it in? Thanks for any help

and

I sure do love this group. I have been reading for about a month now.
Sharon in MN

Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the
compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at
the
same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings?
Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it?
I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above
ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again


That sounds more like a planting fert. advice.

They all do different things. The Epsom salts supposedly
encourage blooming and basal growth.

The blood meal legitimately claims to put phosphorus where the plant
can get it at but it has to be place at the bottom of the hole
before planting as soil percolation weakens its effectiveness.

Osmocote is good but needs to be scratched in and its been some years since
I could get near the base of some of my roses with out it becoming
a blood sport.

No, I've held my nose and completely converted to fish emulsion.
Sounds like a shameless plug but it does have all the nutrients
including all the micro stuff in a form the plant can readily absorb and
it breaks down slowly over months.

Yes excessive chemical fertilization will kill immature/establishing bushes.
Typically you apply the fert before watering in the bush. 2-3 gallons
should do it.

Mulch. Ah yes! reams have been written on this subject and
there doesn't seem to be any consensus. Everything from wood chips
to straw to peanut shells to cocoa shells to stone chips to char coal
to Lucerne Hay(don't ask me what that is!!) has been promoted here.
I'm sure they all work.

I grow about 130+ roses and what has been cheapest for me is to
drive down to the city mulch station and pick up a free load of
lightly composted wood chips in my truck. Yes there is some plastic
stuff and some stones in there but after a rain shower you can't
differentiate between this and a $3 a bag stuff @ home depot.

You live in a considerably colder region than mine
so please take my advice with a pinch of salt. Some one in your region
may know better.

Bud union depth has also been debated with no clear consensus. There
are positives and negative to burying the bud union.

My opinion is roses are too expensive to loose to bud union death. So
I only grow own root roses that have no bud union. They grow a bit
slower the first year but trust me by the second year they will way overtake
any grafted roses you have.

Many roses fulfill these requirements. The Buck roses, the canadian
explorer/morden roses and some of Graham Austins creations come to mind.

I tend to be a Darwinian gardener. No weekly spray. No protection for
winter. Just water and fertilizer some grooming and trimming. If it fails
to thrive I get a replacement. All my roses fulfill these requirements.

Last year with great regret I put down a Red called Showbiz. I had
some sentiment attached to it but it was taking as much attention from me
as my other 130+ roses to keep it thriving.

There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want
some
recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me.

--
Theo

in Kansas City Z5/Z6?

Thank you Theo. I read earlier about using compost and then put alfalfa
meal, epson salts, blood meal and osmocote time release on top of the
compost. Water in with water and fish emulsion. Do you do this all at
the
same time or spread it out? Would this much stuff harm new plantings?
Also, what kind of things are used for mulch and how deep do you apply it?
I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct or should the bud union be above
ground? I guess that is more than enough questions for now. Thanks again


That sounds more like a planting fert. advice.

They all do different things. The Epsom salts supposedly
encourage blooming and basal growth.

The blood meal legitimately claims to put phosphorus where the plant
can get it at but it has to be place at the bottom of the hole
before planting as soil percolation weakens its effectiveness.

Osmocote is good but needs to be scratched in and its been some years since
I could get near the base of some of my roses with out it becoming
a blood sport.

No, I've held my nose and completely converted to fish emulsion.
Sounds like a shameless plug but it does have all the nutrients
including all the micro stuff in a form the plant can readily absorb and
it breaks down slowly over months.

Yes excessive chemical fertilization will kill immature/establishing bushes.
Typically you apply the fert before watering in the bush. 2-3 gallons
should do it.

Mulch. Ah yes! reams have been written on this subject and
there doesn't seem to be any consensus. Everything from wood chips
to straw to peanut shells to cocoa shells to stone chips to char coal
to Lucerne Hay(don't ask me what that is!!) has been promoted here.
I'm sure they all work.

I grow about 130+ roses and what has been cheapest for me is to
drive down to the city mulch station and pick up a free load of
lightly composted wood chips in my truck. Yes there is some plastic
stuff and some stones in there but after a rain shower you can't
differentiate between this and a $3 a bag stuff @ home depot.

You live in a considerably colder region than mine
so please take my advice with a pinch of salt. Some one in your region
may know better.

Bud union depth has also been debated with no clear consensus. There
are positives and negative to burying the bud union.

My opinion is roses are too expensive to loose to bud union death. So
I only grow own root roses that have no bud union. They grow a bit
slower the first year but trust me by the second year they will way overtake
any grafted roses you have.

Many roses fulfill these requirements. The Buck roses, the canadian
explorer/morden roses and some of Graham Austins creations come to mind.

I tend to be a Darwinian gardener. No weekly spray. No protection for
winter. Just water and fertilizer some grooming and trimming. If it fails
to thrive I get a replacement. All my roses fulfill these requirements.

Last year with great regret I put down a Red called Showbiz. I had
some sentiment attached to it but it was taking as much attention from me
as my other 130+ roses to keep it thriving.

There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want
some
recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me.

--
Theo

in Kansas City Z5/Z6?

There are thousands of roses that do just fine in our region. If you want
some
recommendations I can let you know what thrives for me.

--
Theo

in Kansas City Z5/Z6?

I would love some recommendations. I would say I am zone 3/4. I know we can
get 30 below but not very often. You say that you do not provide any
winter protection for your roses? I also will follow your suggestion and
get some of the wood chips from the compost center at the same time I get a
load of compost. Thanks for all the help. It is nice when a newbie can get
some good answers and not feel dumb. I have always had to work out of the
home so gardening became something I did not get into. Now I work at home
and so I am more in tune with my yard and love to see the flowers start to
come up in the spring. Roses have always beens something I have wanted to
grow.
Sharon in MN Z4/Z3?

Sharon Capps wrote:

I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy?

I am not familiar with Kaleidoscope, but I have grown all of the
others here in MN.
They are easy roses for our climate except for Topaz Jewel which
is slow to get going, fussy about location and soil and is not as
hardy as the rest. However it is a very nice rose, and I think it
is worth the trouble to baby it through its first few winters.
There is just not a big choice if you want a hardy yellow with
large double flowers. I have grown TJ for five or six years and
this is the first time it has come through winter with green
quite a ways above the wood chips that I mounded up late last
fall. I hope it is getting more hardy with age.

Henry Kelsey will require support because its canes are thin and
flexible. Be sure to give William Baffin plenty of room. It is
really more of a shrub than a climber. It will only require
support for the first year or two. It will, in a few years, look
more like an eight to ten foot lilac bush with canes at least as
thick as a broomstick.

Don't spray your Rugosas and I would go easy on the fertilizer as
well especially the first year.

I am in MN zone 4a near Rochester.

Regards,

Charles

--
Charles Perry
Reply to:

** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand **

Sharon Capps wrote:

I bought Therese Bugnet, F. J. Grootendoorst, Topaz Jewel
and Kaleidoscope which are Rugosas and I also bought Stanwell Perpetual. I
bought two climbing rose, Henry Kelsey and William Baffin. I understand
that they are all easy to grow. Is this the truth or just a marketing
ploy?

I am not familiar with Kaleidoscope, but I have grown all of the
others here in MN.
They are easy roses for our climate except for Topaz Jewel which
is slow to get going, fussy about location and soil and is not as
hardy as the rest. However it is a very nice rose, and I think it
is worth the trouble to baby it through its first few winters.
There is just not a big choice if you want a hardy yellow with
large double flowers. I have grown TJ for five or six years and
this is the first time it has come through winter with green
quite a ways above the wood chips that I mounded up late last
fall. I hope it is getting more hardy with age.

Henry Kelsey will require support because its canes are thin and
flexible. Be sure to give William Baffin plenty of room. It is
really more of a shrub than a climber. It will only require
support for the first year or two. It will, in a few years, look
more like an eight to ten foot lilac bush with canes at least as
thick as a broomstick.

Don't spray your Rugosas and I would go easy on the fertilizer as
well especially the first year.

I am in MN zone 4a near Rochester.

Regards,

Charles

--
Charles Perry
Reply to:

** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand **

Sharon Capps wrote:


... I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct...

More often than not many of the very hardy roses are sold on
their own root, particularly the Ag Canada roses such as Henry
Kelsey and William Baffin. If The roses are grafted, you should
definately plant the bud ubion at least three inches below ground
level. The rootstock varieties are not reliably hardy in MN and
if you don't plant them below the ground, You may lose the plant
in the first hard winter.

Regards,

Charles



--
Charles Perry
Reply to:

** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand **

It must be wonderful to work @ home. Sigh!
Do you intend to plant many more roses?

Heres a wonderful site by a guy who grows roses in Minnesota
http://homepage.mac.com/passepartoot/home/rosepage.htm

You can see we have a similar philosophy though he
does winter protect a bit. I'm too lazy to do even that.

Yes spring is wonderful. There is usually a
contest to see which rose buds and flowers first.

But it is also when my Cyclamen stop blooming
so that is sad.

The coldest I've recorded here is -15F. Though the record
is -20 F. So I will only recommend the bullet proof ones
that grow for me.

Absolutely cold hardy.

Lavender Lassie - pinkish
Compassion - Salmon
Guinevere - White
Apple jack - Pink (Buck rose)
Pearlie Mae - yellowish (buck rose)
Winter sunset - yellow (buck rose)
J.P.Connell - Yellow (Canadian tough rose)
Alba meidiland - white Bulldozer tough ground cover
New Dawn - pink (probably most popular rose in world)
Candelabra - Orange disease prone but really cold tough for a hybrid tea.
Alexander Mackenzie - Red Canadian. can't seem to get rebloom.

Some cold death but comes back strong.

Iceberg - Popular white.
B. Pink Iceberg - Pink sport really pretty.
Frontenac - Tough tough canadian red. excellent rebloom.

Just some that pop into mind.

--
Theo

in Kansas City Z5/Z6?






I would love some recommendations. I would say I am zone 3/4. I know we
can
get 30 below but not very often. You say that you do not provide any
winter protection for your roses? I also will follow your suggestion and
get some of the wood chips from the compost center at the same time I get
a
load of compost. Thanks for all the help. It is nice when a newbie can
get
some good answers and not feel dumb. I have always had to work out of the
home so gardening became something I did not get into. Now I work at home
and so I am more in tune with my yard and love to see the flowers start to
come up in the spring. Roses have always beens something I have wanted to

Sharon Capps wrote:


... I was told in very cold climates that I should plant the bud union about
an inch under ground. Is this correct...

More often than not many of the very hardy roses are sold on
their own root, particularly the Ag Canada roses such as Henry
Kelsey and William Baffin. If The roses are grafted, you should
definately plant the bud ubion at least three inches below ground
level. The rootstock varieties are not reliably hardy in MN and
if you don't plant them below the ground, You may lose the plant
in the first hard winter.

Regards,

Charles



--
Charles Perry
Reply to:

** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand **