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Feeding Pecan Trees
Anyone have any advice for feeding Pecan trees? Mine is pretty anemic
and I thought a good nutritional feeding might help. Your advice would be appreciated. |
#2
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"Harold E. Robbins" wrote in message . .. Anyone have any advice for feeding Pecan trees? Mine is pretty anemic and I thought a good nutritional feeding might help. Your advice would be appreciated. This page is not coming up for me right now, but it is what I am following for the trees in our park. http://www.heirloomgardenexperts.com...ruit-trees.htm Basically, nitrogen fertilizer and zinc are applied in February/March and again in May/June. I'm using used coffee grounds (about 200 lbs. per tree), an Epsom salt drench (1lb. per tree in 6 gallons of water) and alfalfa/compost tea (to be applied this week, late). I'm not interested in pecan production at this time. It is also suggested to mulch around the tree and keep it watered. HOME FRUIT PRODUCTION - PECANS http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/e...can/pecan.html Mature Trees - Nitrogen Apply 1 pound (2 cups) of 21-0-0 or 33-0-0 for each inch of trunk diameter in late March before bud break. Zinc Frequent zinc sprays are essential for rapid tree growth. Trees deficient in zinc usually have small, weak leaves, ORGANIC PECAN AND FRUIT TREE PROGRAM http://www.aehf.com/articles/GarrettOrgTree.htm FERTILIZING PROGRAM FOR PECANS AND FRUIT TREES Round #1 February 1-15 - organic fertilizer @ 20 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. (i.e. Garden-Ville, GreenSense, Bioform Dry, MaestroGro, Sustane or natural meals. Lava sand at 80 lbs./1,000 sq. ft., and Wheat bran/Cornmeal Soil Amendment at 50 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. Round #2 June 1-15 - organic fertilizer @ 10 lbs./1,000 sq. ft and Texas greensand @ 40-80 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. or soft rock phosphate at the same rate if in acid soils. Round #3 September 15-30 - organic fertilizer @ 10 lbs./1,000 sq. ft., and sul-po-mag @ 20 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. Note: Once soil health has been achieved, round #3 can be omitted.. http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1356.htm Zinc nutrition is especially important in pecan production. Zinc deficiency is called rosette. The most common and noticeable symptoms of rosette are bronzing and mottling of leaves; early defoliation; dead twigs in tops of trees; Zinc needs are best determined by a laboratory analysis of leaf samples taken in late July or early August |
#3
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Reply, thanks a million.....
Harold cat daddy wrote: "Harold E. Robbins" wrote in message . .. Anyone have any advice for feeding Pecan trees? Mine is pretty anemic and I thought a good nutritional feeding might help. Your advice would be appreciated. This page is not coming up for me right now, but it is what I am following for the trees in our park. http://www.heirloomgardenexperts.com...ruit-trees.htm Ba |
#4
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On Sat, 02 Apr 2005 22:57:31 GMT, "Harold E. Robbins"
wrote: Anyone have any advice for feeding Pecan trees? Mine is pretty anemic and I thought a good nutritional feeding might help. Your advice would be appreciated. I'm sure the info put forth by Cat Daddy is good, but I encourage you to think about this differently. Don't feed your trees. Feed your soil. Semantics, perhaps, but it highlights an important fact. Trees absorb nutrients from the soil in conjunction with symbiotic fungi. If the soil is sterile dirt and you dump on some nitrogen, the tree will absorb some of it and put on some new leaf growth, but won't really thrive. Later, when it comes time to support that extragrowth, the tree may have to work too hard and suffer. Feeding the soil is indirect, but more effective, as organic material decomposes and releases all its nutrients back into the soil instead of just dosing up the nitrogen level. If the soil is rich, permeable, and happy, the tree roots will be happy, and the tree will follow suit. Of the previous suggestions, I'd say the most important one was to mulch. This is a global tree-related answer, by the way, not a geared-to-produce-nuts answer. Adding a 3.5" layer of mulch all around the tree (out to the dripline would be excellent, but less is better than none and more is even better) leads to better drainage, more even soil moisture, less competition from weeds and grass, less compaction, and a more active soil ecosystem (bacteria, fungi, worms, bugs, etc.). To "feed" the equation more, you could start with a layer (maybe 1/2" or so) of composted manure, then top with wood chips, bark, or some other organic mulch. As always, be careful not to pile the mulch against the bottom of the tree trunk; it needs to be exposed to air. Again, this is not to contradict Cat Daddy. I just think we should be thinking in these terms when we evaluate fertilization recommendations. Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist |
#5
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"Treedweller" wrote in message ... On Sat, 02 Apr 2005 22:57:31 GMT, "Harold E. Robbins" wrote: Anyone have any advice for feeding Pecan trees? Mine is pretty anemic and I thought a good nutritional feeding might help. Your advice would be appreciated. I'm sure the info put forth by Cat Daddy is good, but I encourage you to think about this differently. Don't feed your trees. Feed your soil. Semantics, perhaps, but it highlights an important fact. Trees absorb nutrients from the soil in conjunction with symbiotic fungi. If the soil is sterile dirt and you dump on some nitrogen, the tree will absorb some of it and put on some new leaf growth, but won't really thrive. Later, when it comes time to support that extragrowth, the tree may have to work too hard and suffer. Feeding the soil is indirect, but more effective, as organic material decomposes and releases all its nutrients back into the soil instead of just dosing up the nitrogen level. If the soil is rich, permeable, and happy, the tree roots will be happy, and the tree will follow suit. Of the previous suggestions, I'd say the most important one was to mulch. This is a global tree-related answer, by the way, not a geared-to-produce-nuts answer. Adding a 3.5" layer of mulch all around the tree (out to the dripline would be excellent, but less is better than none and more is even better) leads to better drainage, more even soil moisture, less competition from weeds and grass, less compaction, and a more active soil ecosystem (bacteria, fungi, worms, bugs, etc.). To "feed" the equation more, you could start with a layer (maybe 1/2" or so) of composted manure, then top with wood chips, bark, or some other organic mulch. As always, be careful not to pile the mulch against the bottom of the tree trunk; it needs to be exposed to air. Again, this is not to contradict Cat Daddy. I just think we should be thinking in these terms when we evaluate fertilization recommendations. I am a great believer in the soilfoodweb and lasagna approach to gardening. I'm totally organic and a compost and compost tea maker. Nothing you said contradicts what I believe, although I can see how you could think that from the aggie link I provided. Gardening is just the by-product of compost making and plants are just the result of feeding the worms and microherd...... }:-) I'm now introducing "nurse logs" to promote mychorrizal fungi. (Actually, I've always left logs lying around as habitat for lizards and bugs, but now I have a cool name for it and an understanding of its other benefit......) Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist |
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