Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more
than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot? Thanks very much Rachael |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
If it's very small after 11 years I wonder if it is poorly? I would move it
in the autumn to be on the safe side and give it plenty of water. Do you have acid soil? Just wondered if you have alkaline soil and that is why it has not grown -- praise the lord and pass the ammunition Rachael Reynolds wrote: : Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for : more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has : finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot? : : Thanks very much : Rachael |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two
plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas? "Rachael Reynolds" wrote in message ... Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot? Thanks very much Rachael |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
In article , Peter
Donovan writes In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas? How old is your house? Did the builders bury the remains of a bag of cement? My mother said that had happened to them -- Kay Easton Edward's earthworm page: http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
The north and south of your house, is there sun on one and not the other as
the plant must have summer sun to set the flowers for next year. Although the yellow leaves indicates a lime soil, strange Robert The Beachcomber http://briefcase.yahoo.com/robert_brimacombe Peter Donovan wrote: : In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have : two plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear : garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the : one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish : leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have : given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if : that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun : grow well.Any ideas? "Rachael Reynolds" : wrote in message : ... :: Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for :: more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has :: finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot? :: :: Thanks very much :: Rachael |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
In article ,
Peter Donovan wrote: In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas? Check the drainage. Camellias hate waterlogging (and drying out!) If it is not that, there may be some builder's rubble underneath, so try some of the treatments to make alkaline soil temporarily acid. And, of course, you could try some Epsom salts. If you do those reasonably well separated, you will see which works. If none, the plant may have got a viral infection, though I haven't heard of them being particularly susceptible. But I am no camellia expert, so I may well have got the causes in the wrong order of likelihood! Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
On Sat, 5 Apr 2003 19:52:52 +0100, "Peter Donovan"
wrote: In have a problem with a Camellia somebody might help me with.I have two plants one on the front garden and one at the rear.The rear garden plant is full of blossom,and doing fine every year.While the one at the front garden is looking very poorly with yellowish leaves,and no flowers.The soil is the same both back and front I have given the poor plant a good dose of dried blood fertiliser to see if that is the problem.The soil must be pretty acid as my Rhosedendrun grow well.Any ideas? Could be several reasons. You say the soil is the same front and back, but if your house is fairly new, the front garden might have been spoilt by builder's activities (cement, rubble, compaction etc.). The camellia might be in a pocket of alkaline soil, or in poor rubbly soil that dries out very quickly in summer, or it may be poorly draining and get waterlogged in winter. It may be in full sun, while the one in the back gets some shade. If it were mine I would mulch it with a 3 inch deep layer of moist peat each spring, and feed it once per month with sulphate of ammonia (1 heaped dessert spoon in 2 galls water) from now until July. Then I would then give it a similar dose of sulphate of potash in August. Also a couple of doses of chelated/sequestered iron and trace elements such as Sequestrine in early summer. Come to think of it, I believe Miracid combines fertiliser with chelated iron, so you could use that in place of the sulphate of ammonia. Make it to the strength they tell you on the packet. But don't use either beyond July, and then do give it a watering with sulphate of potash. If the summer's hot and dry, water it well, twice a week, in the evenings. Camellias set their flower buds in late summer/early autumn, for the following year. If they get dry at that time, the buds abort and you get little or no flowers next year. Watering with sulphate of potash encourages bud formation. If you continue with nitrogen (sulphate of ammonia or Miracid) too late in the season, it encourages late soft growth which doesn't have time to ripen and set flowers and may also get damaged by frosts. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Camelias
On Sat, 5 Apr 2003 01:28:12 +0000 (UTC), "Rachael Reynolds"
wrote: Is there a good time to move a Camelia Donation. Its been here for more than 11 years but is still very small. Wouldn after it has finished flowering be good and could I keep it in a pot? Thanks very much Rachael Why do you want to move it? Is it because you think it will do better somewhere else, or is there another reason? Camellias can be grown in tubs (pots are a bit small; I wouldn't put one into anything less than 24 inches in diameter if it's to be permanent), but unless you take really good care of them (especially plentiful watering in summer), they don't usually thrive. Have you ever fed or mulched it? If not, see my reply to Peter Donovan. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
camelias etc struggling in inner city planter box. | Australia | |||
Camelias | Australia | |||
CAMELIAS | United Kingdom | |||
CAMELIAS again | United Kingdom | |||
camelias | United Kingdom |