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Aly 02-03-2006 10:38 AM

Privet Hedging
 
I'm planting a privet green hedge.
It's coming from a nursery 'Root ball'.
I know exactly what this is and how to plant.
Root ball plants can be planted between October & March, (when ground is cold) but not when there is frost.
I live in South lanarkshire, Scotland and it's very frosty and don't expect the weather to have changed much by next week.
The plants also have to be planted within a few days of arrival.
has anyone had any experience of planting privet at this time of the year and do you think the plants will be ok?

I have the border well forked and prepared by digging in organic matter.
The plants are very expensive and i'm just a bit nervous of loosing them.
The best time would have been october, before frosts, but as it happens, it's had to be now.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Aly

Janet Galpin 02-03-2006 06:09 PM

Privet Hedging
 
The message
from Janet Baraclough contains these words:

The message
from Aly contains these words:



I'm planting a privet green hedge.
It's coming from a nursery 'Root ball'.
I know exactly what this is and how to plant.
Root ball plants can be planted between October & March, (when ground
is cold) but not when there is frost.
I live in South lanarkshire, Scotland and it's very frosty and don't
expect the weather to have changed much by next week.
The plants also have to be planted within a few days of arrival.


Don't plant until the frost lifts. If you have a shed or garage, you
can keep them in there. The tops aren't sensitive to freezing but the
roots are. It's better to keep them cold with damp roots (old blanket or
some such to prevent freezing ), that to keep them in a warm house where
the tops will begin to sprout and they will dehydrate.


Don't unpack the roots, keep those covered and moist, but let some air
get to the tops. They should be okay for at least a week like that (the
supplier should enclose directions about the root packaging material,
just follow those).


I was interested in this question and Janet's response as I have a
rather special bare-rooted apple tree which I received about 10 days
ago. I decided to heel it in in my veg garden as the roots looked as if
they might well dry out. Since then the weather has been very cold and
night-frosts have become steadily heavier so I didn't plant the tree
this weekend. I'm hoping that as the roots of the tree are well buried,
the soil round them won't be frozen solid, but if that's the case I
might just as well have planted it in its final position.
I don't quite understand the theory behind the traditional advice not to
plant when frosts are expected. For how long after planting are roots
vulnerable to frosts? Is it the actual act of planting which is crucial,
i.e. if roots are exposed to freezing air during planting?
Any thoughts?
Janet G

Aly 03-03-2006 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet Galpin
The message
from Janet Baraclough
contains these words:

The message

from Aly
contains these words:



I'm planting a privet green hedge.
It's coming from a nursery 'Root ball'.
I know exactly what this is and how to plant.
Root ball plants can be planted between October & March, (when ground
is cold) but not when there is frost.
I live in South lanarkshire, Scotland and it's very frosty and don't
expect the weather to have changed much by next week.
The plants also have to be planted within a few days of arrival.


Don't plant until the frost lifts. If you have a shed or garage, you
can keep them in there. The tops aren't sensitive to freezing but the
roots are. It's better to keep them cold with damp roots (old blanket or
some such to prevent freezing ), that to keep them in a warm house where
the tops will begin to sprout and they will dehydrate.


Don't unpack the roots, keep those covered and moist, but let some air
get to the tops. They should be okay for at least a week like that (the
supplier should enclose directions about the root packaging material,
just follow those).


I was interested in this question and Janet's response as I have a
rather special bare-rooted apple tree which I received about 10 days
ago. I decided to heel it in in my veg garden as the roots looked as if
they might well dry out. Since then the weather has been very cold and
night-frosts have become steadily heavier so I didn't plant the tree
this weekend. I'm hoping that as the roots of the tree are well buried,
the soil round them won't be frozen solid, but if that's the case I
might just as well have planted it in its final position.
I don't quite understand the theory behind the traditional advice not to
plant when frosts are expected. For how long after planting are roots
vulnerable to frosts? Is it the actual act of planting which is crucial,
i.e. if roots are exposed to freezing air during planting?
Any thoughts?
Janet G

Thanks

Will pop them in the greenhouse which has a frost free heater and some in shed and just keep an eye on them til frost has lifted (if it ever does up here)
I have planting instructions from nursery and have been chatting with the nursery, but it all seem to revolve round NO FROST!!
I'll check out the frost root theory when i start back college (ask the lecturers) i'm studying horticulture at moment.
Thanks for reply

newsb 07-03-2006 12:01 PM

Privet Hedging
 
In article , Janet Galpin
writes
I was interested in this question and Janet's response as I have a
rather special bare-rooted apple tree which I received about 10 days
ago. I decided to heel it in in my veg garden as the roots looked as if
they might well dry out. Since then the weather has been very cold and
night-frosts have become steadily heavier so I didn't plant the tree
this weekend


Although we didn't use many apple trees - maybe some crabs - when I
worked at Warwickshire CC countryside service, we got all the trees for
planting delivered in bulk (probably late November). These were always
heeled in even though the weather was often lousy (more often it was the
wettest, muddiest day of the year rather than frozen).

However, you imply that maybe it wasn't freezing when you heeled in -
and anyway, even if it was, hopefully the under surface would have been
fine. Either way, better than letting it dry out.

--
regards andyw


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