Aphid control- need a rethink
 

I've been trying to use the soapy spray technique to control aphids. I have
several shrub roses which would be ok to spray this way, about once a week
even, but it is the rugosa hedge that defeated me. I haven't been able to
finish spraying it. I have disabilities and medical problems that make the
physical demands of spraying this way impossible to meet. Even my firend who
does a lot of my gardening work for me and is more able-bodied than me can't
do it. Initially I tried spraying some of these (currently around 2ft high)
bushes from a short distance. but when examined close up I found most aphids
had not been touched as they were relatively secure in narrow spaces that I
hadn't got the spray into. I found that to get at the aphids I have to grab
each newish green shoot or flower bud and spray down into the gaps around it
between shoot and leaves etc in order to actually get the water onto the
aphids at all. Most of them seem to be hiding away in this manner. Then I
have to turn the shoot or leaf over and spray on the underside. After a few
bushes I was unable to continue- it was (for me) back-breaking and having
been unable to finish it over two days and now needing a few days of rest to
recouperate, this is clearly not something I can do every two weeks. It is
debatable if I can do this at all, ever! If it was just half a dozen shrub
roses, ok, but this hedge is about forty bushes and in a difficult to access
place, only really accessible from one side. Next year when they are higher
and broader I won't be able to reach individual shoots and buds at all.

So I need to weigh up the options. My first thought is- I seem to be the kind
of gardener that systemic pesticides were meant for! One or two sprayings,
not necessarily from really close up, and the pesticide is then in the sap!
But it seems a pity to abandon organic principles.

I wonder if less energetic organic methods could work well enough. I could
try putting up the lacewing boxes, ladybird boxes if there are such things,
and growing nettles. And I could also try to get some perspective. These are
rosa rugosa alba- that's a wild species- it must be capable of withstanding
aphids.

Any explanations of how the organic thing can be made to work in such a
situation would be very helpful. It MUST be possible without me exhausting
myself in the process. Any suggestions one way or the other would be helpful.

PS three bits of possibly relevant information- [1] This hedge of rugosas was
only planted last year and I did do some pesticide spaying last summer- not
much, but some (I used up one small bug spray -can't remember what it was
now). Could I have ruined the local eco-system in my front garden for the
next 12 years by doing that? [2] This hedge is next to the pavement and there
are cars/pedestrians passing every few minutes at the very least- it's not a
really tranquil environment so birds that might eat aphids (if that happens)
could be less likely to feed there, right next to the road. [3] When it gets
windy, it gets VERY windy here.

--
VX (remove alcohol for email)

If the bushes are not suffering too much with the current aphid infestation, I'd suggest leaving them alone for a while. Aphid parasitoids will be emerging soon and they will have major impact at reducing the infestation. Predators, such as ladybirds, hoverfly larvae and lacewing larvae will also be colonising the infested bushes. A strong jet of water will also help to reduce numbers, and you could apply this from the comfort of a sun-lounger ! If you spray anything that's systemic (probably imidacloprid), you'll also affect the natural enemies.

Aphid control- need a rethink
 

VX writes
These are rosa rugosa alba- that's a wild species- it must be capable
of withstanding aphids.

FWIW I have not found aphids to cause a problem on rugosas. Unless the
aphids are causing physical damage, i would not bother with trying to
eradicate them.
--
Kay

Aphid control- need a rethink
 

The message m
from VX contains these words:

I found that to get at the aphids I have to grab
each newish green shoot or flower bud and spray down into the gaps
around it
between shoot and leaves etc in order to actually get the water onto the
aphids at all. Most of them seem to be hiding away in this manner. Then I
have to turn the shoot or leaf over and spray on the underside. After a few
bushes I was unable to continue- it was (for me) back-breaking

Are you using one of those small handsprayers? No wonder it's such
hard work! Those are really for houseplants. For spraying gardens,
people usually use a larger one which has a long "wand" applicator and
works at much higher pressure. Getting under leaves, into the middle of
bushes etc is just a matter of turning the wand (while standing upright
with the spray container sitting on the ground; no bending and no
weight) But as Kay says, rugosa seldom sufferes from any pests so you
may not need to do anything. Hang a peanut feeder on a stake close to
infested plants and bluetits will soon make short work of the aphids.

Janet

Aphid control- need a rethink
 

Have you considered using a paint sprayer? You'de get your volume, all
right, and it would be much, much easier! You can often rent one from a
hardware store. I use one to clean the trees and bushes here - the
force is enough to blast off bugs with just water. If that doesn't
work, a little soap often does - though I only had to follow up with
soap twice.

Aphid control- need a rethink
 

"VX" wrote in message
s.com...

Any explanations of how the organic thing can be made to work in such a
situation would be very helpful. It MUST be possible without me exhausting
myself in the process. Any suggestions one way or the other would be
helpful.

The more leaf litter and other stuff you leaving around undisturbed
over winter - or all of the time for that matter, the more insects
you'll attract to your garden. Indeed the more wildlife in general.
The birds pick at dead seedheads and pips over winter and use the
material for nests etc. Boxes are more for people who insist on having
a tidy garden all the time. Again if your soil has the right fertility
nettles will become easily established and wil require no maintainence
once established, except cuttting back every summer, maybe for use in
compost and as nettle tea.

You have a choice really. If you succeed in killing off all
the aphids with chemicals you will have no predators ladybirds
lacewings, hoverflies and birds visting your garden at all.
And so you will be solely dependant on chemicals. Its also
necessary to know what you're supposed to be spraying as ladybird
and lacewing larvae look nothing like the adults while hoverfies most
resemble wasps.

Whereas if you leave the insects and birds to just get on with the
job, they will eventually establish a balance.


michael adams

....



--
VX (remove alcohol for email)

Aphid control- need a rethink
 

On Sun, 7 May 2006 22:43:12 +0100, K wrote
(in message ):

VX writes
These are rosa rugosa alba- that's a wild species- it must be capable
of withstanding aphids.

FWIW I have not found aphids to cause a problem on rugosas. Unless the
aphids are causing physical damage, i would not bother with trying to
eradicate them.
--
Kay


Thanks for that- it does put it in perspective. I can see a few curling
leaves but nothing beyond that, so far anyway. I've probably been worrying
for no good reason...

--
VX (remove alcohol for email)