I have an old apple tree in my garden which was there when we arrived.
It looks as though it has been neglected for 10+ years. It does crop
but the apples tend to be small - probably because there are too many
of them. The trunk kind of V's and my question is ... if I remove one
of the V's (about half the tree) would this kill the tree?

It would actually give the tree a better shape if I did this and I'm
hoping the apples (cookers) it produces would be bigger because there
would be less of them... any advice?

On 25/7/06 09:10, in article
, "Mook"
wrote:

I have an old apple tree in my garden which was there when we arrived.
It looks as though it has been neglected for 10+ years. It does crop
but the apples tend to be small - probably because there are too many
of them. The trunk kind of V's and my question is ... if I remove one
of the V's (about half the tree) would this kill the tree?

It would actually give the tree a better shape if I did this and I'm
hoping the apples (cookers) it produces would be bigger because there
would be less of them... any advice?

I think it would be worth consulting an expert. Generally speaking, the
approach to the pruning and re-shaping of old trees is very little at a
time, year after year. I had a James Grieve that was well over 100 years
old and still producing fruit. When I bought the house it was straggly and
overgrown with many crossing and rubbing branches, so a tree surgeon
carefully took out that sort of growth and it did seem to give the fruiting
renewed vigour.
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(email address on website)

You can safely take 1/3 of the tree at a time, no more. I would also wait
until the tree is dormant this winter. I would pick one side to remove, and
take some of it off the first time, and the rest the next winter.

Dwayne (in Kansas)

"Mook" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have an old apple tree in my garden which was there when we arrived.
It looks as though it has been neglected for 10+ years. It does crop
but the apples tend to be small - probably because there are too many
of them. The trunk kind of V's and my question is ... if I remove one
of the V's (about half the tree) would this kill the tree?

It would actually give the tree a better shape if I did this and I'm
hoping the apples (cookers) it produces would be bigger because there
would be less of them... any advice?

It is practical to rejuvinate an old tree, age isn't the issue, it's
its condition (there must be a better way of saying that, but I can't
think of it at the mo) - if there is evidence of new growth occurring,
then you stand a good chance of success. As the tree has not been
looked after for a while then pests and diseases can be an issue,
particully once you start stiring things up by pruning. Here are a few
steps to take.
..
First, this kind of pruning is done when the tree is dormant and there
is no hard cold spell that could damage the exposed tissues. Secondly
if there is a lot do do, then the work should be spread over at least
two, preferably more, winters. As the tree is of an age, be careful as
to what is safe to stand on if you are climbing it.
..
1. As with any pruning remove any dead, dieing or damaged branches.
Think larger banches rather than the fine growth, those that need a saw
rather than seceteurs. For the most part you will be cutting back to
healthy growth.
2. Remove branches that are growing the wrong way - they want to bee
going outwards not back into the crown of the tree.
3. Next are the crossing branches, here you need to stand back and
look at the tree from several positions to descide which branch to
remove.
4. Deal with branches that are too high, too low and too spreading.
Having done all this you will start to have a framework to work with.
5. Then it is a question of overcrowding. This is the enemy -
congestion limits light and air flow.
6. To help prevent fungal infections spreading, paint over large
wounds with a fungicidal paint such as Medo, available from good garden
centres.

The best advice I can give is to take your time, follow the steps in
order. Yes you are likely to go around the tree a few / several times,
but by following the steps you avoid being too drastic and being left
with a stump.

Winter pruning encourages growth, so don't be suprised to see lots of
new growth next season. Come summer, the new growth can be thinned to
select new branches.

It will probably take three to five years to get the tree back into the
full swing of things,

If you want further advice, feel free to ask. The Northern Fruit Group
run a course on renovating old fruit trees at Harlow Carr, Harrogate.
The course is very popular and fills quickly, so book early when the
RHS publish their Harrogate prospectus (available on the RHS web site).
If you want any details, let me know and I will get it for you.

Good Luck

Clifford
Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire.

The RHS has a leaflet - which can be found at
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...fruit_tree.asp
Clifford
Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire.

you are welcome
Mook wrote:
Thanks cliff_the_gardener... excellent advice

Mook wrote:
I have an old apple tree in my garden which was there when we arrived.
It looks as though it has been neglected for 10+ years. It does crop
but the apples tend to be small - probably because there are too many
of them. The trunk kind of V's and my question is ... if I remove one
of the V's (about half the tree) would this kill the tree?

It would actually give the tree a better shape if I did this and I'm
hoping the apples (cookers) it produces would be bigger because there
would be less of them... any advice?


Hi Mook

Get the Apple tree pruned by a professional Arborist. He will
remove waterspouts, crossed and rubbing branches and shape the
tree and thin out the fruiting wood.

You apples should be a bit bigger.

Derryl Killan
horticulturist.

You are able to hard prune an apple tree. If the tree is very overgrown it would be best to do this over a period of a few years. That said you can still take out one quarter to a third of all the growth at a time for very overgrown trees - not to be done on a regular basis! So go ahead and remove that limb out. What will happen is that you will get a lot of young shoots next year. You then need to prune those and leave a few that will become the new framework. Leave the pruning until winter, after the leaves have fallen, but when it is very cold, like a frosty day. This is the best time annd it is easier because you can see what you are doing.

Barry
www.barryholdsworth.com

Mook
Hello, just a follow up on this earlier posting. Today I visited an
orchard in Nottingham and the owner showed me a case of rust on pears.
Apparently in is starting to appear, there is no cure except to pick
off infected leaves. I have put two pics of the leaf so you can see
what it is like and compare notes with your trees issue.
Apparently when the fungus is ready to spore the underside of the leaf
has claws on it. I did not see it that advanced.
Initially it might only affect a couple of leaves, but will spread,
resulting in early leaf fall and ultimately affect the long-term health
of the tree. You can just pick the leaves off and dispose of them.
As yet it isn't a condition that affects the trees around Doncaster,
but just like Red Lilly beetle, it is spreading further North.
Regards
Clifford
Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire