Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from their
garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the like
so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little buggers
before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we have
a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I don't want
to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late into the
night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's the
"norm" around these parts generally.

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:07:35 -0000, "Robbo"
wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from their
garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the like
so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little buggers
before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we have
a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I don't want
to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late into the
night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's the
"norm" around these parts generally.


It's the norm everywhere. If you don't like wildlife, go and live in a
top floor flat with a window box.


--









Disclaimer

Pete has taken all reasonable care to ensure that pages published by him
were accurate on the date of publication or last modification.
Other pages which may be linked or which Pete may have published are in
a personal capacity. Pete takes no responsibility for the consequences
of error or for any loss or damage suffered by users of any of the information
published on any of these pages, and such information does not form any
basis of a contract with readers or users of it.

It is in the nature of Usenet & Web sites, that much of the information is
experimental or constantly changing, that information published may
be for test purposes only, may be out of date, or may be the personal
opinion of the author.
Readers should verify information gained from the Web/Usenet with the appropriate
authorities before relying on it.

Should you no longer wish to read this material or content, please use your
newsreaders kill filter.

"Robbo" wrote in message
...
Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?


http://tinyurl.com/2ddqhy

Which leads to

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/twin-pack-of-p...QQcmdZViewItem

Tom

In article ,
"Robbo" writes:
| Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from their
| garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?
|
| There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
| effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
| I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the like
| so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little buggers
| before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

Arsenic is no longer legal for use as a rat poison in this country,
and even phosphorus did not usually contaminate the rat carcases
enough to harm predators. I have never heard of the modern poisons
(legal in the UK) doing so.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Tom" wrote in message
...
"Robbo" wrote in message
...
Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat
from their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?


http://tinyurl.com/2ddqhy

Which leads to

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/twin-pack-of-p...QQcmdZViewItem

Rats aren't daft. Set a trap in a suitable place, you'll probably get
one on the first night but that's it, you won't catch any more just
there. A combination of a suitable rodenticide used as per the
instructions + and this is probably the most important part of the
programme, denial of access to food and living space. In other words,
stored foods kept secure from rats, waste foods disposed of properly.
Building maintenance and garden maintenance to fill or block off any
voids suitable for runs or nesting, get rid of any rubbish that might
provide living space. Constant vigilance, if it looks like they're
moving back in, start baiting again and keep baiting until they stop
taking it.
--
Rod

My real address is rodthegardeneratmyisp

"Robbo" wrote in message
...
Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little
buggers before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner.

Why not invest in a squirrel trap yourself?

Alan

Kind of think if you live next to a farm, then it's pretty much a case of
give up, you'll never get them all.

Traps can be quite good, we certainly used to catch a dozen+ some nights in
a single trap, used to use them to train the jack russells.

As for rat poison the most commonly available ones these days all rely on
the fact that rats can't vomit, so things like warferin can kill a rat but
would usually only make higher predators sick.

Having said all that, i'd come back to my first point. I mean we live next
to an open field, and to be honest you can kill a few but where there are
resources for them they will always come back. Living next to a farm you're
in for a very tough time.

My neighbour did make me laugh when he moved in and said, "I don't mind
rats, as long as they respect the boundaries of my garden", images of
small "no rats" signs going up round his fence came to mind.

Oh of course don't forget you can't release them when you catch them, cos
that's illegal.

Duncan

Robbo wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little
buggers before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we
have a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I
don't want to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late
into the night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's
the "norm" around these parts generally.

"Pete (.¿.)" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:07:35 -0000, "Robbo"
wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their
garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like
so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little buggers
before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we
have
a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I don't
want
to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late into the
night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's
the
"norm" around these parts generally.


It's the norm everywhere. If you don't like wildlife, go and live in a
top floor flat with a window box.

Firstly if you actually read the OP properly you'll notice I *do* care about
wildlife, which is why I was requesting a different approach to reducing the
problem,
Secondly I have already lived in a flat with a window box, which was
attacked by mice and birds resulting an a box devoid of anything growing.
Therefore BTDTGTTS.
Thirdly, your signature at the bottom of your post is too long, full of
unnecessary information and will now, as requested in the same you'll enter
my killfile during the next week or so when/if I can be bothered to read
your drivel again.

"D Russell" wrote in message
...
Kind of think if you live next to a farm, then it's pretty much a case of
give up, you'll never get them all.

Yes, I can see that and I'm not the only person suffering from the rodents
destroying stuff. Would have been useful to reduce the problem to a
managable level.


Traps can be quite good, we certainly used to catch a dozen+ some nights
in
a single trap, used to use them to train the jack russells.

Isn't bating illegal these days?



As for rat poison the most commonly available ones these days all rely on
the fact that rats can't vomit, so things like warferin can kill a rat but
would usually only make higher predators sick.

AH! I wasn't aware that Rats can't vomit. Although it does give me a problem
if the local moggy finds a carcase as he's quite frail and probably wouldn't
survive any form of poison.


Having said all that, i'd come back to my first point. I mean we live next
to an open field, and to be honest you can kill a few but where there are
resources for them they will always come back. Living next to a farm
you're
in for a very tough time.

Rat poison killed our cat several years ago. Vet suggested he'd ingested
some poison from a carcass. Fairly fit bugger he was too. Thoroughly
buggered up an entire week because the missus cared a lot for him.


My neighbour did make me laugh when he moved in and said, "I don't mind
rats, as long as they respect the boundaries of my garden", images of
small "no rats" signs going up round his fence came to mind.

Hmmm.....Good idea....Maybe if I hang some metal ones around the garden on
some electric fence ;-)


Oh of course don't forget you can't release them when you catch them, cos
that's illegal.

Ooops... Too late.


Robbo wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little
buggers before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we
have a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I
don't want to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions
late
into the night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's
the "norm" around these parts generally.

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:40:31 +0000, D Russell
wrote:

Kind of think if you live next to a farm, then it's pretty much a case of
give up, you'll never get them all.

Traps can be quite good, we certainly used to catch a dozen+ some nights in
a single trap, used to use them to train the jack russells.

Lets hope you reap what you sow one day, miserable prat!

My neighbour did make me laugh when he moved in and said, "I don't mind
rats, as long as they respect the boundaries of my garden", images of
small "no rats" signs going up round his fence came to mind.

Most of the population, city or otherwise don't have a problem with
wildlife. It's usually only the odd arsehole that go looking for
trouble, finds it, even when it isn't there.


Oh of course don't forget you can't release them when you catch them, cos
that's illegal.

So is using them for your dogs to play with. Prat.

Duncan

Robbo wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little
buggers before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we
have a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I
don't want to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late
into the night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's
the "norm" around these parts generally.

--









Disclaimer

Pete has taken all reasonable care to ensure that pages published by him
were accurate on the date of publication or last modification.
Other pages which may be linked or which Pete may have published are in
a personal capacity. Pete takes no responsibility for the consequences
of error or for any loss or damage suffered by users of any of the information
published on any of these pages, and such information does not form any
basis of a contract with readers or users of it.

It is in the nature of Usenet & Web sites, that much of the information is
experimental or constantly changing, that information published may
be for test purposes only, may be out of date, or may be the personal
opinion of the author.
Readers should verify information gained from the Web/Usenet with the appropriate
authorities before relying on it.

Should you no longer wish to read this material or content, please use your
newsreaders kill filter.

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:15:04 -0000, "Robbo"
wrote:


"Pete (.¿.)" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:07:35 -0000, "Robbo"
wrote:

Anyone in URG had any success in eradicating dear old Roland Rat from
their
garden *without* resorting to rodenticide?

There are several cats in my area and I *really* don't want a knock on
effect of Rat poison if they get to a carcass etc.
I also have a dog, who's naturally inquisitive about "roadkill" and the
like
so I am looking for a more humane way of despatching these little buggers
before the veg patch gets it's first seedlings soon.

I had some success with a squirrel trap, but it had to return to it's
rightful owner. Redistribution of the "I eat anything you leave lying
around" rodents was working quite well..... Until they bred and now we
have
a few too many. Shooting them is my neighbours resolution, but I don't
want
to sit on a rotating stool doing Japser Carrot impressions late into the
night.

Local council aren't too bothered as we are adjacent to a farm and it's
the
"norm" around these parts generally.


It's the norm everywhere. If you don't like wildlife, go and live in a
top floor flat with a window box.

Firstly if you actually read the OP properly you'll notice I *do* care about
wildlife, which is why I was requesting a different approach to reducing the
problem,
Secondly I have already lived in a flat with a window box, which was
attacked by mice and birds resulting an a box devoid of anything growing.
Therefore BTDTGTTS.
Thirdly, your signature at the bottom of your post is too long, full of
unnecessary information and will now, as requested in the same you'll enter
my killfile during the next week or so when/if I can be bothered to read
your drivel again.


Walk like a prat, sound like a prat.............
--









Disclaimer

Pete has taken all reasonable care to ensure that pages published by him
were accurate on the date of publication or last modification.
Other pages which may be linked or which Pete may have published are in
a personal capacity. Pete takes no responsibility for the consequences
of error or for any loss or damage suffered by users of any of the information
published on any of these pages, and such information does not form any
basis of a contract with readers or users of it.

It is in the nature of Usenet & Web sites, that much of the information is
experimental or constantly changing, that information published may
be for test purposes only, may be out of date, or may be the personal
opinion of the author.
Readers should verify information gained from the Web/Usenet with the appropriate
authorities before relying on it.

Should you no longer wish to read this material or content, please use your
newsreaders kill filter.

Living in Harmony With Nature
http://www.peta.org.uk/factsheet/fil...ID=189&pf=true
We cause our wild animal neighbours far more trouble than they cause
us, as each day, we invade thousands of acres of their territories,
destroy their homes and kill those who inconvenience us in some way.
Much of the damage we do is unintentional and can easily be rectified.
Here are some ways to live in harmony with wild animals.

Squirrels
If you hear scurrying in your attic, it could be a trapped bird, or it
could be a squirrel nesting in a warm, safe environment. Squirrels
breed twice a year, between January and April and again between June
and August. If you hear noises in your attic at these times, you may
have to live with it for a few weeks. Driving parents away at these
times would mean the death of their young. Instead, wait until the
young are old enough to leave the nest, and ensure your attic is empty
before blocking off any holes. Loud music and a dish of Jeyes fluid
(squirrels apparently hate the smell) should encourage squirrels to
leave. Then put up a squirrel nesting box in the garden as an
alternative nesting site. Position it in a place where you can see it
from your living room, and you’ll have a front-row seat for watching
the squirrels’ antics.

If you must evict squirrels with their young, provide them with a
nesting box outside for them to move into, turn the music on loud and
put a light on in the attic. Leave these things in place for a few
days in order to give the mother time to find a new home and move her
children. Check thoroughly before blocking holes in case the mum is
out and the babies are still inside. If you still cannot get the
animals out, call a wildlife sanctuary for help and advice. Never
trust animals’ lives to anyone else, especially “pest-control
services”, no matter what they tell you.

Mice and Rats
Mice often seek warmth and food inside our houses but can be
encouraged to relocate. The most humane and effective way to evict
rodents is to make your home inhospitable to them by locking away all
food in glass, metal, ceramic or plastic containers (mice can climb,
so don’t think bread is safe on a worktop). One PETA member drove mice
out of her cupboards by putting cotton balls soaked in oil of
peppermint in them. After the mice have left, seal up all holes and
cracks you can find that are half a centimetre in diameter or larger.

Live-trapping and releasing mice outdoors should be used as a last
resort – doing so can endanger the lives of animals who are stressed
as a result of being separated from their families and food and water
sources. And the mice may simply find their way back inside. If you do
opt to trap and release mice, remember they are nocturnal, and set
humane traps before going to bed. There are a number of box traps
available, but a homemade trap works just as well. Put some food in
the bottom of a bucket and stack some books or bricks next to it so
the mice can get to the top of the bucket. The mice will climb up,
jump into the bucket after the food and be unable to climb out again.
If you add a few sheets of kitchen paper, they will have something to
hide under while they await your return. Make sure you check the trap
first thing in the morning and relocate any mice caught to a safe
environment away from the house. If you have a garden and can create a
safe place for them under a shed or in an outbuilding, then you can
make food and water available until they are able to source their own.

People unintentionally raise mice and rat populations by leaving
companion animal food on the floor or outside near the house and by
keeping bird feeders. Make sure bins are secure and that compost heaps
are covered. Rats and mice will not hang around if there is no food
available.

Birds
Wild bird in your house? Close the door to the room the bird is in and
keep it quiet and dark. Open the window and put a light outside it.
The bird should fly out to the light. Be careful not to frighten
trapped birds because they may fly into a closed window pane in
confusion.

Cap your chimney. When birds sit on top of chimneys for warmth, they
can inhale toxic fumes, and when chimneys are uncapped, they can fall
in and die.

Remember that wild birds will need water during hot summers, and put
bowls of water out that are large enough for them to bathe in. In
winter, hang feeders up to ensure a supply of food if you do not have
sufficient berry and seed-bearing bushes and trees.

Bats
When Britain was largely forested, bats would roost in holes in old
trees. Now they choose other draught-free sites, including houses and
garages. Bats are excellent navigators and won’t get tangled in your
hair, contrary to myth! Nineteen years of research have shown just
four cases of rabies in bats in Britain, and because infection can
only be spread through a bite from an infected bat, the risk of
catching rabies from bats is virtually nil.

There are 16 species of bats in Britain, and most are classified as
vulnerable, rare or endangered. Many people try to help and attract
these insect-eating animals by providing bat boxes.

Bats are protected, and it is illegal to intentionally disturb a bat
or the shelter which he or she is using. If a bat is at rest, you may
very gently catch him using a box and cardboard, but it is safest to
simply turn off all lights and open outside doors and windows. Be sure
to wear gloves if you attempt to handle bats, and always release them
carefully outdoors. If you find a grounded or injured bat, call the
Bat Conservation Trust on 0845 1300 228 during office hours for help
and advice.

Foxes and Badgers
Foxes and badgers are symbols of the British countryside, although
both can be found in towns and foxes can live happily in city centres.
Foxes are adept at getting into bins, and badgers are opportunistic
enough to make off with tasty scraps left lying around. If you want to
deter these animals from your garden, store your bin in a garage or
make a wooden rack to hold it securely. If you are happy to have these
visitors to your home but would prefer they didn’t make a mess, do as
one homeowner did and leave a small bag of “goodies” beside the bin
each night. Satisfied, the midnight raider left the rubbish alone.
Hungry foxes have been known to prey on small companion animals, so
make sure these animals are kept indoors at night.

Hedgehogs
These much-loved nocturnal animals are known as the gardener’s friend
because they eat slugs, snails and moth larvae. Hedgehogs can live as
long as 10 years with our help, but they often only live to be 2 or 3.
Make sure they can get out of ponds if they fall in. Never use slug
pellets because they also poison hedgehogs, and provide a comfortable
and dry box for hibernation. Do not disturb this box unless you think
it has become damp; then you can gently add dry straw and cover it in
waterproof material. A late litter of hoglets may not put on enough
weight for winter hibernation and may rely on kind humans taking them
in until spring. Check with your local wildlife-rescue centre about
volunteer opportunities.

Moles
Moles can also be beneficial to gardeners. They eat the white grubs
which damage grass and flowers. If you really want to encourage them
to leave, set a dish of Jeyes fluid along their runs in the garden –
like squirrels, they hate the smell of it. Chilli powder, moth balls
and garlic can also be tried. Electronic devices which emit a sound
that drives moles away are available for purchase.

Snakes
Snakes are timid, and in Britain, only one type of snake – the adder –
is poisonous; adders’ bites are rarely fatal to humans. Snakes control
rodent populations and should be left alone. To keep snakes away from
the house, make sure wood or junk piles are kept at a distance, as
snakes prefer this type of cover.

Keeping Wild Animals Safe
Uncovered ponds, pools and wells trap many animals, including
hedgehogs, frogs and kittens. To help animals climb out, lean escape
planks of rough lumber (to allow for footholds) from the bottom to the
top of each uncovered well, and place rocks in the shallow ends of
ponds and pools in order to give animals who fall in a way to climb
out. Also, a stick in the birdbath gives drowning insects a leg up.

Many animals die tragically when they push their faces into discarded
food containers to lick them clean and get their heads stuck inside.
Rinse out jars and tin cans before recycling or discarding them. Put
the tin-can lid inside – so tongues won’t get cut – and crush the open
end of the can as flat as possible. Cut open one side of empty
cardboard cup-like containers. Also, cut apart all sections of plastic
six-pack rings, including the inner diamonds.

Orphaned or Sick Animals
Wild youngsters are appealing, but never try to make one your pet.
It’s unfair; they need to be with others of their kind. If you tame
one, when the time comes for release, the animal will not know how to
forage for food or be safe.

If you find a youngster who appears to be orphaned, wait quietly at a
distance for a while to be certain the animal’s parents are nowhere
nearby. If the animal is safe from cats or other predators, then leave
for several hours. If they are not, take the little one to a
professional wildlife sanctuary for care and eventual release into a
protected wild area. If you are unsure where your nearest wildlife
sanctuary is located, call a local vet and ask for a reference.

An injured bird can easily be carried in a cardboard box. Keep the top
closed, because the bird will be less stressed in a dark environment.
Often, fully grown but fledgling seagulls can be found on the ground,
with their parents clearly watching from above. This is because the
youngsters thought they could fly sooner than they were actually able
to! Gently catch such babies and lift them to safety on a roof, where
parents can continue to feed them until they are able to fly.

Some wild rabbits suffer from the viral disease myxomatosis. If you
see a rabbit with swollen, pus-filled eyes out in daylight, then it’s
almost certain that the animal has myxomatosis and will die a slow and
painful death. Catch the rabbit, making sure you handle him or her
carefully, and put the animal in a box to transport him or her a local
vet. Euthanasia is the only humane option at this stage. To avoid
spreading the disease, wash your clothes immediately and de-flea
anywhere that the sick rabbit has been.

On very hot days, some animals come out of hiding. Foxes have been
known to stretch out on patios. Normally nocturnal adult animals seen
in daytime should be observed – if they run away from you, chances are
they are healthy. If sick, they may walk slowly, stagger or be
lethargic. Call a wildlife expert and keep a list of wildlife-rescue
centres and services at home and in your car in case of emergencies.

Create a Wildlife-Friendly Garden
Don’t use pesticides in your garden, and leave part of it natural and
unmanicured. Dead wood is ecological gold, so simply top off – rather
than chop down – dead trees which are 12 inches or more in diameter.
Save dead logs. Leave plenty of bushes for wildlife cover. Keep a
birdbath filled with water and a pan for small mammals. Add bird, bat
and squirrel boxes, and enjoy sharing your space with our wonderful,
wild neighbours.

Pete (.¿.) wrote:
Plonk!
--
ßôyþëtë

In article , Derek Moody
wrote:

Nothing. Pete the troll is forging posts in my name.

Living in Harmony With Nature

And he's cut-and-pasting someone else's work without bothering about
copyrights.

Cheerio,

--

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 20:45:34 +0000, Derek Moody
wrote:

Living in Harmony With Nature
http://www.peta.org.uk/factsheet/fil...ID=189&pf=true
We cause our wild animal neighbours far more trouble than they cause
us, as each day, we invade thousands of acres of their territories,
destroy their homes and kill those who inconvenience us in some way.
Much of the damage we do is unintentional and can easily be rectified.
Here are some ways to live in harmony with wild animals.

Squirrels
If you hear scurrying in your attic, it could be a trapped bird, or it
could be a squirrel nesting in a warm, safe environment. Squirrels
breed twice a year, between January and April and again between June
and August. If you hear noises in your attic at these times, you may
have to live with it for a few weeks. Driving parents away at these
times would mean the death of their young. Instead, wait until the
young are old enough to leave the nest, and ensure your attic is empty
before blocking off any holes. Loud music and a dish of Jeyes fluid
(squirrels apparently hate the smell) should encourage squirrels to
leave. Then put up a squirrel nesting box in the garden as an
alternative nesting site. Position it in a place where you can see it
from your living room, and you’ll have a front-row seat for watching
the squirrels’ antics.

If you must evict squirrels with their young, provide them with a
nesting box outside for them to move into, turn the music on loud and
put a light on in the attic. Leave these things in place for a few
days in order to give the mother time to find a new home and move her
children. Check thoroughly before blocking holes in case the mum is
out and the babies are still inside. If you still cannot get the
animals out, call a wildlife sanctuary for help and advice. Never
trust animals’ lives to anyone else, especially “pest-control
services”, no matter what they tell you.

Mice and Rats
Mice often seek warmth and food inside our houses but can be
encouraged to relocate. The most humane and effective way to evict
rodents is to make your home inhospitable to them by locking away all
food in glass, metal, ceramic or plastic containers (mice can climb,
so don’t think bread is safe on a worktop). One PETA member drove mice
out of her cupboards by putting cotton balls soaked in oil of
peppermint in them. After the mice have left, seal up all holes and
cracks you can find that are half a centimetre in diameter or larger.

Live-trapping and releasing mice outdoors should be used as a last
resort – doing so can endanger the lives of animals who are stressed
as a result of being separated from their families and food and water
sources. And the mice may simply find their way back inside. If you do
opt to trap and release mice, remember they are nocturnal, and set
humane traps before going to bed. There are a number of box traps
available, but a homemade trap works just as well. Put some food in
the bottom of a bucket and stack some books or bricks next to it so
the mice can get to the top of the bucket. The mice will climb up,
jump into the bucket after the food and be unable to climb out again.
If you add a few sheets of kitchen paper, they will have something to
hide under while they await your return. Make sure you check the trap
first thing in the morning and relocate any mice caught to a safe
environment away from the house. If you have a garden and can create a
safe place for them under a shed or in an outbuilding, then you can
make food and water available until they are able to source their own.

People unintentionally raise mice and rat populations by leaving
companion animal food on the floor or outside near the house and by
keeping bird feeders. Make sure bins are secure and that compost heaps
are covered. Rats and mice will not hang around if there is no food
available.

Birds
Wild bird in your house? Close the door to the room the bird is in and
keep it quiet and dark. Open the window and put a light outside it.
The bird should fly out to the light. Be careful not to frighten
trapped birds because they may fly into a closed window pane in
confusion.

Cap your chimney. When birds sit on top of chimneys for warmth, they
can inhale toxic fumes, and when chimneys are uncapped, they can fall
in and die.

Remember that wild birds will need water during hot summers, and put
bowls of water out that are large enough for them to bathe in. In
winter, hang feeders up to ensure a supply of food if you do not have
sufficient berry and seed-bearing bushes and trees.

Bats
When Britain was largely forested, bats would roost in holes in old
trees. Now they choose other draught-free sites, including houses and
garages. Bats are excellent navigators and won’t get tangled in your
hair, contrary to myth! Nineteen years of research have shown just
four cases of rabies in bats in Britain, and because infection can
only be spread through a bite from an infected bat, the risk of
catching rabies from bats is virtually nil.

There are 16 species of bats in Britain, and most are classified as
vulnerable, rare or endangered. Many people try to help and attract
these insect-eating animals by providing bat boxes.

Bats are protected, and it is illegal to intentionally disturb a bat
or the shelter which he or she is using. If a bat is at rest, you may
very gently catch him using a box and cardboard, but it is safest to
simply turn off all lights and open outside doors and windows. Be sure
to wear gloves if you attempt to handle bats, and always release them
carefully outdoors. If you find a grounded or injured bat, call the
Bat Conservation Trust on 0845 1300 228 during office hours for help
and advice.

Foxes and Badgers
Foxes and badgers are symbols of the British countryside, although
both can be found in towns and foxes can live happily in city centres.
Foxes are adept at getting into bins, and badgers are opportunistic
enough to make off with tasty scraps left lying around. If you want to
deter these animals from your garden, store your bin in a garage or
make a wooden rack to hold it securely. If you are happy to have these
visitors to your home but would prefer they didn’t make a mess, do as
one homeowner did and leave a small bag of “goodies” beside the bin
each night. Satisfied, the midnight raider left the rubbish alone.
Hungry foxes have been known to prey on small companion animals, so
make sure these animals are kept indoors at night.

Hedgehogs
These much-loved nocturnal animals are known as the gardener’s friend
because they eat slugs, snails and moth larvae. Hedgehogs can live as
long as 10 years with our help, but they often only live to be 2 or 3.
Make sure they can get out of ponds if they fall in. Never use slug
pellets because they also poison hedgehogs, and provide a comfortable
and dry box for hibernation. Do not disturb this box unless you think
it has become damp; then you can gently add dry straw and cover it in
waterproof material. A late litter of hoglets may not put on enough
weight for winter hibernation and may rely on kind humans taking them
in until spring. Check with your local wildlife-rescue centre about
volunteer opportunities.

Moles
Moles can also be beneficial to gardeners. They eat the white grubs
which damage grass and flowers. If you really want to encourage them
to leave, set a dish of Jeyes fluid along their runs in the garden –
like squirrels, they hate the smell of it. Chilli powder, moth balls
and garlic can also be tried. Electronic devices which emit a sound
that drives moles away are available for purchase.

Snakes
Snakes are timid, and in Britain, only one type of snake – the adder –
is poisonous; adders’ bites are rarely fatal to humans. Snakes control
rodent populations and should be left alone. To keep snakes away from
the house, make sure wood or junk piles are kept at a distance, as
snakes prefer this type of cover.

Keeping Wild Animals Safe
Uncovered ponds, pools and wells trap many animals, including
hedgehogs, frogs and kittens. To help animals climb out, lean escape
planks of rough lumber (to allow for footholds) from the bottom to the
top of each uncovered well, and place rocks in the shallow ends of
ponds and pools in order to give animals who fall in a way to climb
out. Also, a stick in the birdbath gives drowning insects a leg up.

Many animals die tragically when they push their faces into discarded
food containers to lick them clean and get their heads stuck inside.
Rinse out jars and tin cans before recycling or discarding them. Put
the tin-can lid inside – so tongues won’t get cut – and crush the open
end of the can as flat as possible. Cut open one side of empty
cardboard cup-like containers. Also, cut apart all sections of plastic
six-pack rings, including the inner diamonds.

Orphaned or Sick Animals
Wild youngsters are appealing, but never try to make one your pet.
It’s unfair; they need to be with others of their kind. If you tame
one, when the time comes for release, the animal will not know how to
forage for food or be safe.

If you find a youngster who appears to be orphaned, wait quietly at a
distance for a while to be certain the animal’s parents are nowhere
nearby. If the animal is safe from cats or other predators, then leave
for several hours. If they are not, take the little one to a
professional wildlife sanctuary for care and eventual release into a
protected wild area. If you are unsure where your nearest wildlife
sanctuary is located, call a local vet and ask for a reference.

An injured bird can easily be carried in a cardboard box. Keep the top
closed, because the bird will be less stressed in a dark environment.
Often, fully grown but fledgling seagulls can be found on the ground,
with their parents clearly watching from above. This is because the
youngsters thought they could fly sooner than they were actually able
to! Gently catch such babies and lift them to safety on a roof, where
parents can continue to feed them until they are able to fly.

Some wild rabbits suffer from the viral disease myxomatosis. If you
see a rabbit with swollen, pus-filled eyes out in daylight, then it’s
almost certain that the animal has myxomatosis and will die a slow and
painful death. Catch the rabbit, making sure you handle him or her
carefully, and put the animal in a box to transport him or her a local
vet. Euthanasia is the only humane option at this stage. To avoid
spreading the disease, wash your clothes immediately and de-flea
anywhere that the sick rabbit has been.

On very hot days, some animals come out of hiding. Foxes have been
known to stretch out on patios. Normally nocturnal adult animals seen
in daytime should be observed – if they run away from you, chances are
they are healthy. If sick, they may walk slowly, stagger or be
lethargic. Call a wildlife expert and keep a list of wildlife-rescue
centres and services at home and in your car in case of emergencies.

Create a Wildlife-Friendly Garden
Don’t use pesticides in your garden, and leave part of it natural and
unmanicured. Dead wood is ecological gold, so simply top off – rather
than chop down – dead trees which are 12 inches or more in diameter.
Save dead logs. Leave plenty of bushes for wildlife cover. Keep a
birdbath filled with water and a pan for small mammals. Add bird, bat
and squirrel boxes, and enjoy sharing your space with our wonderful,
wild neighbours.






Absolutely right!


Angus Macmillan
www.roots-of-blood.org.uk
www.killhunting.org
www.con-servation.org.uk

All truth passes through three stages:
First, it is ridiculed;
Second, it is violently opposed; and
Third, it is accepted as self-evident.
-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)