Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?


Thanks

Ian

405 TD Estate wrote:
Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?

Depends how "nice" you want it. I'm a firm believer in just letting
grass rip in its own way, unless you want to make an exhibition-quality
lawn. I'd say just loosen the soil, rake out, allow to settle, and sow
whatever seed the budget will allow. Level out any really bad dips and
bumps over the next few years. Cheaper seed mixtures tend to be on the
coarse side: this may or may not matter in your situation, but people do
often waste money by going for the more expensive kinds on the grounds
that "you get what you pay for". You do (usually) get what you pay for,
of course: but how often does the difference show? The packets in the
garden centre will describe pretty accurately what the various seed
mixtures are best for.

Rotavating is a good idea only if the soil is _very_ compacted and there
aren't a lot of perennial weeds -- that is, it's usually a bad idea.

I don't think amateurs should bother with soil testing kits. It's
extremely difficult to get an accurate reading, and even if you are
skilful enough to get a true result, what are you going to do with the
information? You won't go wrong if you just loosen the soil: you're most
unlikely to need any fertiliser, but a bit of weed-and-feed may come in
handy later on.

--
Mike.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Mike Lyle" wrote in message
.. .
405 TD Estate wrote:
Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?

Depends how "nice" you want it. I'm a firm believer in just letting
grass rip in its own way, unless you want to make an exhibition-quality
lawn. I'd say just loosen the soil, rake out, allow to settle, and sow
whatever seed the budget will allow. Level out any really bad dips and
bumps over the next few years. Cheaper seed mixtures tend to be on the
coarse side: this may or may not matter in your situation, but people do
often waste money by going for the more expensive kinds on the grounds
that "you get what you pay for". You do (usually) get what you pay for,
of course: but how often does the difference show? The packets in the
garden centre will describe pretty accurately what the various seed
mixtures are best for.

aye, good common sense advice that. Get the type of grass that will suit the
wear and tear the grass will have to endure. Hardier, coarser stuff if kids
will play on it. Finer turf grasses if you want a 'show' type lawn. Don't
worry too much if in the first year or so the grass looks a little scungy,
if you cut it high the grass will self seed and thicken up in the right
conditions - spring & autumn.

rob

On 2 Mar, 10:00, "George.com" wrote:
"Mike Lyle" wrote in message

.. .





405 TD Estate wrote:
Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?

Depends how "nice" you want it. I'm a firm believer in just letting
grass rip in its own way, unless you want to make an exhibition-quality
lawn. I'd say just loosen the soil, rake out, allow to settle, and sow
whatever seed the budget will allow. Level out any really bad dips and
bumps over the next few years. Cheaper seed mixtures tend to be on the
coarse side: this may or may not matter in your situation, but people do
often waste money by going for the more expensive kinds on the grounds
that "you get what you pay for". You do (usually) get what you pay for,
of course: but how often does the difference show? The packets in the
garden centre will describe pretty accurately what the various seed
mixtures are best for.

aye, good common sense advice that. Get the type of grass that will suit the
wear and tear the grass will have to endure. Hardier, coarser stuff if kids
will play on it. Finer turf grasses if you want a 'show' type lawn. Don't
worry too much if in the first year or so the grass looks a little scungy,
if you cut it high the grass will self seed and thicken up in the right
conditions - spring & autumn.

rob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you cut it high - what the highest setting on the lawn mower?

Why would I have bald patches now - I'm thinking I need t change
something to stop this?

The last time I put grass seed down it didn't come through at all - do
you just put it on the surface?

"405 TD Estate" wrote in message
oups.com...
On 2 Mar, 10:00, "George.com" wrote:
"Mike Lyle" wrote in message

.. .

405 TD Estate wrote:
Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit
patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking
of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and
would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?

Depends how "nice" you want it. I'm a firm believer in just letting
grass rip in its own way, unless you want to make an
exhibition-quality
lawn. I'd say just loosen the soil, rake out, allow to settle, and sow
whatever seed the budget will allow. Level out any really bad dips and
bumps over the next few years. Cheaper seed mixtures tend to be on the
coarse side: this may or may not matter in your situation, but people
do
often waste money by going for the more expensive kinds on the grounds
that "you get what you pay for". You do (usually) get what you pay
for,
of course: but how often does the difference show? The packets in the
garden centre will describe pretty accurately what the various seed
mixtures are best for.

aye, good common sense advice that. Get the type of grass that will suit
the
wear and tear the grass will have to endure. Hardier, coarser stuff if
kids
will play on it. Finer turf grasses if you want a 'show' type lawn.
Don't
worry too much if in the first year or so the grass looks a little
scungy,
if you cut it high the grass will self seed and thicken up in the right
conditions - spring & autumn.

If you cut it high - what the highest setting on the lawn mower?

Why would I have bald patches now - I'm thinking I need t change
something to stop this?

The last time I put grass seed down it didn't come through at all - do
you just put it on the surface?

set the cut height at least 1/2 way up, cut and see what develops over a
year. For example, I have set my mower to a certain height and observed that
I get rye grass seeding. Depending on how the grass takes you may get thin
patches. Letting the grass self seed will close those up over time.

rob

On Mar 2, 12:35 pm, "405 TD Estate" wrote:
On 2 Mar, 10:00, "George.com" wrote:





"Mike Lyle" wrote in message

. ..

405 TD Estate wrote:
Hi,

Some advice for an absolute beginner please:

I've bought a house and the grass in the rear garden is a bit patchy.
Also I want to move the path so that will leave a lot of bare soil.

The grass that is there is not very good quality so I was thinking of
re-grassing.

Is this the best thing to do? I dont mind if it's extra work and would
need rotavating to get the best results.

Also would the original grass need killing first?

Also would it be worth getting a PH meter or other soil sampler(dotn
know what) to make sure everything is good.

Any other tips for nice grass?

Depends how "nice" you want it. I'm a firm believer in just letting
grass rip in its own way, unless you want to make an exhibition-quality
lawn. I'd say just loosen the soil, rake out, allow to settle, and sow
whatever seed the budget will allow. Level out any really bad dips and
bumps over the next few years. Cheaper seed mixtures tend to be on the
coarse side: this may or may not matter in your situation, but people do
often waste money by going for the more expensive kinds on the grounds
that "you get what you pay for". You do (usually) get what you pay for,
of course: but how often does the difference show? The packets in the
garden centre will describe pretty accurately what the various seed
mixtures are best for.

aye, good common sense advice that. Get the type of grass that will suit the
wear and tear the grass will have to endure. Hardier, coarser stuff if kids
will play on it. Finer turf grasses if you want a 'show' type lawn. Don't
worry too much if in the first year or so the grass looks a little scungy,
if you cut it high the grass will self seed and thicken up in the right
conditions - spring & autumn.

rob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you cut it high - what the highest setting on the lawn mower?

Why would I have bald patches now - I'm thinking I need t change
something to stop this?

The last time I put grass seed down it didn't come through at all - do
you just put it on the surface?-

What kind of soil do you have? You could try sowing the seed then
putting a layer of fine topsoil over the top and then raking in. The
problem you sometimes get is rain washed the seed into the dips so you
can roll or tread on the soil after sowing. I have areas (in my
incomplete parts fo the garden) where the grass has only grown in my
muddy footprints.

On 2/3/07 12:35, in article
, "405 TD Estate"
wrote:

snip

The last time I put grass seed down it didn't come through at all - do
you just put it on the surface?

You could try the method my husband always uses here (apologies to other
urglers for the umpteenth repeat!)

He takes the required amount of grass seed and then, in a wheelbarrow, he
mixes it thoroughly with compost which he then dampens just a little if it's
very dry. Then he puts the mixture into an empty compost bag, rolls over
the top and leaves it for a few days. Once it's germinated, he scatters it
where needed and it's off to a head start. In cold weather and to keep
birds off, he covers it with horticultural fleece but the birds seem much
less interested in it because it's germinated.

--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
http://www.discoverdartmoor.co.uk/
(remove weeds from address)

"Sacha" wrote in message
. uk...
On 2/3/07 12:35, in article
, "405 TD Estate"
wrote:

snip

The last time I put grass seed down it didn't come through at all - do
you just put it on the surface?

You could try the method my husband always uses here (apologies to other
urglers for the umpteenth repeat!)


I don't claim to be expert in any gardening matters but have had good
results seeding bare bits of lawn by roughing up the surface with a rake,
then sprinkling the seed, followed by sifting a thin layer of soil over the
seed. I have successfully filled many quite large bare areas like this using
cheap grass seed bought from Lidl. When I tried raking the seed into the
earth I seemed to end up raking the seed into clumps which led to the grass
being very thick in places and none existent in others.

Mike

Mike Lyle wrote:
Rotavating is a good idea only if the soil is _very_ compacted and
there aren't a lot of perennial weeds -- that is, it's usually a bad
idea.


I disagree.

Pre-turf or seeding is the only time you have a chance to ger humous, air
and nutriesnts deep into the soil.

I would advise *always* rotovate and mix in well rotted manure or other
organis matter into the top foot of soil.

Before rotovating either reomove or kill the turf. If weed killing and
rotovaring make multi passes to ensude ther turf is very finelt chopped.

pk