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Post and rail
Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in
post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? Janet -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
[quote=Sacha;706791]On 22/4/07 00:07, in article , "Janet Tweedy"
wrote: Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? QUOTE] Hi - your clematis screen will get quite a bit of pressure on it if it is in a windy spot. So it is worth doing a good job of fixing the posts. We would have 2'6" at least, preferably 3' in the ground, depending on the soil type. Dig the hole 3' deep, shove the post in & back fill with a lttle soil at a time - 4 or 5", then thump it down. Use the end of the post to thump it down, but it must be thumped evenly, or the post will keep moving. Let the thumper fall straight, & watch your hands - wear gloves. Put another 4" of soil in & thump again. Check the post is straight as you go, with a spirit level. If not, thump a bit more on one side than the other, to straighten it up. You can back fill with 1" chalk or brick rubble (particularly at the bottom of the hole) but make sure it is small enough and that it breaks down as you thump, so that it goes tight. To fix a post in firmly, there should be a third more soil in the hole with the post, than you took out - if you have thumped it down well enough! |
Post and rail
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? 1 Treat timber 18" from bottom with creosote or the like and allow to dry. 2 Dig 18" deep hole a spade size wide square hole for each post, add a few pebbles to bottom. 3 Put post in hole and lightly nail a piece of timber to each side at around 45 degrees to support in upright position, like a TeePee shape. 4 Using 6 to 1 ballast/cement mix, mix up to a stiff mix (Like a cake mix) and pour into hole leaving 2" from top local ground area level. Cover with polythene if rain expected. 5 Wait to set (2/3 days) 6 Carefully remove the support timbers and backfill over top of cement bases with sieved soil. 7 Seed area with grass seed or wait for it to infiltrate. Voila! When fixing the rails to the posts mark the rails and drill through using a drill slightly larger that the screw used to fix it onto the post and screw it on. That way if you need to take it apart for any reason it will be easier and allow it to be put back up again. For a couple of hundred metres you'd use a post ramming attachment on a tractor, loads of nails, 2 men and lots of Coffee or Tea....Plus bacon butties ;-) |
Post and rail
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? I recently hired a petrol powered post hole boring machine to make holes for some 3" diameter posts supporting new trees. It made short work of the holes but was quite a bit of a beast to use (we have clay soil with stones). You drill down a bit then lift it out and clean off the soil. Don't just let it drill itself all the way in or you won't be able to lift it out. There is no reverse gear. Might be better to go for the "two man" version rather than the "one man" that I had - easier to pull out. They come with a selection of drill bits but you want one that's a close match to diameter as your posts so no back fill. I'd go down around 3 foot. I think I'd put in three posts per 6 foot length. http://www.aplant.com/catalogue.aspx?id1=111016 http://www.aplant.com/catalogue.aspx?id1=111018 Most hire places have a day rate or a special rate for weekends. If you dig by hand back fill with gravel rather than soil. You could use concrete but it's harder to get them out again in the future. If using concrete slightly over fill and slope the top so water runs away from the post. |
Post and rail
On 22 Apr, 10:04, "R" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? 1 Treat timber 18" from bottom with creosote or the like and allow to dry. 2 Dig 18" deep hole a spade size wide square hole for each post, add a few pebbles to bottom. 3 Put post in hole and lightly nail a piece of timber to each side at around 45 degrees to support in upright position, like a TeePee shape. 4 Using 6 to 1 ballast/cement mix, mix up to a stiff mix (Like a cake mix) and pour into hole leaving 2" from top local ground area level. Cover with polythene if rain expected. 5 Wait to set (2/3 days) 6 Carefully remove the support timbers and backfill over top of cement bases with sieved soil. 7 Seed area with grass seed or wait for it to infiltrate. Voila! When fixing the rails to the posts mark the rails and drill through using a drill slightly larger that the screw used to fix it onto the post and screw it on. That way if you need to take it apart for any reason it will be easier and allow it to be put back up again. For a couple of hundred metres you'd use a post ramming attachment on a tractor, loads of nails, 2 men and lots of Coffee or Tea....Plus bacon butties ;-) Good advice BUT if you are going to put the post 18 inches into the ground then the preservative needs to be on at least 24 inches of post. Posts almost always rot at ground level and not underground where the wet and the air can work together. If the frames are only going to be 6ft wide then why not make them up before fixing the posts in the ground, then put up as one piece. David Hill Abacus Nurseries |
Post and rail
"CWatters" wrote in message ... "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? I recently hired a petrol powered post hole boring machine to make holes for some 3" diameter posts supporting new trees. It made short work of the holes but was quite a bit of a beast to use (we have clay soil with stones). I borrowed one of these about 20 years ago to put up 100yards of fence at the old place. First hole fine, second a bit tough going, on the third the drill jammed on a rock about a foot down. We could not hold the machine and had to let go. It continued twirling round and round with the drill jammed firmly in the ground acting as an anchor. What to do? Thing going round so fast we could not really see let alone reach the stop switch or throttle control for fear of having a hand ripped off, almost full tank of petrol. In the end my mate thwacked the spark plug cap (it was luckily the only easily identifiable part as it stuck out the side) with a hammer as it spun past, after a couple of goes he smashed the plug and cap. That stopped it. I returned it to the owner and hired a newer one with a safety bar hand grip. Let go of this one and the engine stops. Mike |
Post and rail
In article , Sacha
writes Our post 'n rope set up has round (chamfered) posts about 8' above the ground and 2' below and they're cemented in. You need a spirit level to ensure you get them absolutely straight. I think Matthew backfilled with stone, as you say and then poured the cement over that. If I can get more or different detail from him later, I will. I'll also take a photo and email it to you. Thanks Sacha, don't want to use 2x2 or similar as it looks too perfect for the garden. Wanted something that will 'disappear' I like the hazel rails in appearance so shall get long enough ones for the actual uprights. janet -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
Post and rail
In article , R
writes 1 Treat timber 18" from bottom with creosote or the like and allow to dry. 2 Dig 18" deep hole a spade size wide square hole for each post, add a few pebbles to bottom. 3 Put post in hole and lightly nail a piece of timber to each side at around 45 degrees to support in upright position, like a TeePee shape. 4 Using 6 to 1 ballast/cement mix, mix up to a stiff mix (Like a cake mix) and pour into hole leaving 2" from top local ground area level. Cover with polythene if rain expected. 5 Wait to set (2/3 days) 6 Carefully remove the support timbers and backfill over top of cement bases with sieved soil. 7 Seed area with grass seed or wait for it to infiltrate. Voila! When fixing the rails to the posts mark the rails and drill through using a drill slightly larger that the screw used to fix it onto the post and screw it on. That way if you need to take it apart for any reason it will be easier and allow it to be put back up again. Thanks, I'll print this out! -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
Post and rail
In article .com, Dave
Hill writes If the frames are only going to be 6ft wide then why not make them up before fixing the posts in the ground, then put up as one piece. David Hill Abacus Nurseries Oh good idea, it might make them straighter in the end! Thanks David -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
Post and rail
On 22/4/07 13:09, in article , "Janet Tweedy"
wrote: In article , Sacha writes Our post 'n rope set up has round (chamfered) posts about 8' above the ground and 2' below and they're cemented in. You need a spirit level to ensure you get them absolutely straight. I think Matthew backfilled with stone, as you say and then poured the cement over that. If I can get more or different detail from him later, I will. I'll also take a photo and email it to you. Thanks Sacha, don't want to use 2x2 or similar as it looks too perfect for the garden. Wanted something that will 'disappear' I like the hazel rails in appearance so shall get long enough ones for the actual uprights. janet This might be of interest to you, Janet. It's bang up to date: http://www.traditionalropecompany.co.uk/ This is the person we got our rope from and he made us some 'scrambling net' trellis, too. Not only does it look attractive, it's ideal for a painted wall because it's attached by hooks, so that when it comes to repainting we can carefully unhook it and 'peel' it back with plants attached. Trellis is too unyielding for that to be easily done. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon http://www.discoverdartmoor.co.uk/ (remove weeds from address) |
Post and rail
"CWatters" wrote in message ... "Janet Tweedy" wrote in message ... Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? I recently hired a petrol powered post hole boring machine to make holes for some 3" diameter posts supporting new trees. It made short work of the holes but was quite a bit of a beast to use (we have clay soil with stones). You drill down a bit then lift it out and clean off the soil. Don't just let it drill itself all the way in or you won't be able to lift it out. There is no reverse gear. Might be better to go for the "two man" version rather than the "one man" that I had - easier to pull out. They come with a selection of drill bits but you want one that's a close match to diameter as your posts so no back fill. I'd go down around 3 foot. I think I'd put in three posts per 6 foot length. http://www.aplant.com/catalogue.aspx?id1=111016 http://www.aplant.com/catalogue.aspx?id1=111018 Most hire places have a day rate or a special rate for weekends. If you dig by hand back fill with gravel rather than soil. You could use concrete but it's harder to get them out again in the future. If using concrete slightly over fill and slope the top so water runs away from the post. For 4 posts that might be a little excessive, but the 2 man option is always the better idea. Having put in hundreds of posts with a 2 man machine (After unsuccessfully using a one man machine) it's slightly quicker and less tiring. |
Post and rail
On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 00:07:57 +0100, Janet Tweedy
wrote: Not being a madly expert DIYer can anyone tell me the best way to put in post and rail fencing so I can train clematis and possibly Chaenemole along the length. It has to be in two 6 foot lengths or thereabouts with a gap in the middle so I can access the path from the lawn. I know how to put in 4x4 stuff using metposts but there aren't any round alternatives to metposts. Do I dig a hole first and then shove the post in or backfill with bits of stone etc like the post for the washing line? Posts will be about 6 foot above the ground, so how much needs to be below? Janet For solid fencing, I believe the ROT is 1ft below ground for every 2ft above, but I guess for a more open structure you can get away with less depth. When I did our wind-break fencing I dug holes down to the length of my arm-plus-trowel when lying flat on the ground, IYSWIM. This keeps them fairly narrow. An empty tin-can helps in scooping out the soil. I put a flat stone in the bottom, put the post in place supported vertically by a couple of temporary props driven into the ground at angles, and filled around the post with rapid-setting post-hole mix, available from DIY sheds. You pour it in dry, then water it afterwards. It goes off in ten minutes or so, full strength after about 24hrs IIRC. If you can screw the rails to the posts (electric screwdriver) it doesn't shake them nearly so much as hammering in nails. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
Post and rail
"Muddymike" wrote in message om... I borrowed one of these about 20 years ago to put up 100yards of fence at the old place. First hole fine, second a bit tough going, on the third the drill jammed on a rock about a foot down. We could not hold the machine and had to let go. It continued twirling round and round with the drill jammed firmly in the ground acting as an anchor. What to do? Thing going round so fast we could not really see let alone reach the stop switch or throttle control for fear of having a hand ripped off, almost full tank of petrol. In the end my mate thwacked the spark plug cap (it was luckily the only easily identifiable part as it stuck out the side) with a hammer as it spun past, after a couple of goes he smashed the plug and cap. That stopped it. The one I hired had a cut off lever. As soon as the body starts to rotate the lever "hits" your body/legs and the clutch releases. No problem. |
Post and rail
"CWatters" wrote in message ... "Muddymike" wrote in message om... I borrowed one of these about 20 years ago to put up 100yards of fence at the old place. First hole fine, second a bit tough going, on the third the drill jammed on a rock about a foot down. We could not hold the machine and had to let go. It continued twirling round and round with the drill jammed firmly in the ground acting as an anchor. What to do? Thing going round so fast we could not really see let alone reach the stop switch or throttle control for fear of having a hand ripped off, almost full tank of petrol. In the end my mate thwacked the spark plug cap (it was luckily the only easily identifiable part as it stuck out the side) with a hammer as it spun past, after a couple of goes he smashed the plug and cap. That stopped it. The one I hired had a cut off lever. As soon as the body starts to rotate the lever "hits" your body/legs and the clutch releases. No problem Good, the one I hired had a safety bar clutch which you had to hold in all the time. As soon as you let go it stopped, much safer. Mike |
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