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Curing and splitting wood for burning
Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher writes: | Huge wrote: | On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: | | A ton of coal or wood is probably not far off 1000 liters of heating oil | in terms of heat output. I can easily get through that in 6 weeks here | if the weather is ultra cold. | | Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like | temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. | | BIG house. Audley End? Not that big. We have one like that nearby, and it takes about 10 grand a year to keep it dry, let alone warm. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
Huge wrote:
On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Huge wrote: On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: A ton of coal or wood is probably not far off 1000 liters of heating oil in terms of heat output. I can easily get through that in 6 weeks here if the weather is ultra cold. Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. BIG house. Ditto. 5 bed detached in exposed site. yeah..we are I guess about 6 bed here, or if divvied up into 'modern' sized rooms, a small hostel! On top of the hill and with nothing for miles. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On Jan 28, 11:33*am, Huge wrote:
On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: A ton of coal or wood is probably not far off 1000 liters of heating oil in terms of heat output. I can easily get through that in 6 weeks here if the weather is ultra cold. Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. With open fires, unless you've got rads from the fire, they can actually make other rooms colder if there are draughts through the windows. So, a lot depends on the house that they're in, the fireplace and chimney, and how the air supply is provided as to how much fuel is needed. In very old buildings with a fire only downstairs you make the downstairs room warmer and everywhere else colder! |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:
Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night. -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
In article ,
says... "Graham Harrison" wrote in message ... Having had some trees pruned I now have a pile of logs. Cut to length but will need splitting before I can burn them in the grate. I have Holly and Willow wood. Question is do I split them now or wait until they've cured and then split them? I'm expecting to have to leave them about 2 years to cure unsplit, would it speed the process if I split them now? On a related note, I've looked at local and national hire shop web sites but can't immediately locate a log splitter. I don't expect to have any more tree logs coming my way for a good few years so hiring seems to make more sense then spending something like £200 for a splitter (I know you can do it by hand and I also know that there are splitters for as little as £150). I'm in "South Somerset" (between Yeovil/Frome/Wells/Street/Glastonbury/Radstock and, at a push, Bristol, Bath, Dorchester, Weymouth.). The tree surgeon who did the work for us did warn us that the Willow would take a long time to cure and not burn wonderfully. We don't use the fire as a primary source so I use wood slowly and can wait for it to cure. As for splitting, I have tried a maul in the past and not been very successful. To be frank, I'm worried how much damage I could do (to me, and surrounding buldings, cars, walls etc. etc) if I were to try with an axe. Hence the thought about a machine. The comment about the farmer has bought and idea to mind. One of my neighbours might be able to help. Unfortunately it is all cut to a maximum of about a foot. That doesn't preclude turning it but does restrict what can be done (I have a beautiful walking stick that was turned by a friend of my father many years ago which rather directs my thinking). Try a grenade and a lump hammer, things are a bit more under control -- Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and Lapageria rosea |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 2008-01-28 13:03:17 +0000, The Natural Philosopher said:
Huge wrote: On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Huge wrote: On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: A ton of coal or wood is probably not far off 1000 liters of heating oil in terms of heat output. I can easily get through that in 6 weeks here if the weather is ultra cold. Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. BIG house. Ditto. 5 bed detached in exposed site. yeah..we are I guess about 6 bed here, or if divvied up into 'modern' sized rooms, a small hostel! On top of the hill and with nothing for miles. Hills? East Anglia? |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2008-01-28 13:03:17 +0000, The Natural Philosopher said: Huge wrote: On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Huge wrote: On 2008-01-28, The Natural Philosopher wrote: A ton of coal or wood is probably not far off 1000 liters of heating oil in terms of heat output. I can easily get through that in 6 weeks here if the weather is ultra cold. Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. BIG house. Ditto. 5 bed detached in exposed site. yeah..we are I guess about 6 bed here, or if divvied up into 'modern' sized rooms, a small hostel! On top of the hill and with nothing for miles. Hills? East Anglia? I didn't say mountains! We are almost - gasp - 200 meters above sea level..or is it 200 feet? Probably 200 ft. Norfolk and Suffolk are not fen. They start where the fens end, just about. They are gently rolling terminal moraines from the ice sheet, covered in sand and clay over a chalk substrate. The native tribes do not have webbed feet, and undertsand what a tree is. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Graham Harrison wrote: Having had some trees pruned I now have a pile of logs. Cut to length but will need splitting before I can burn them in the grate. I have Holly and Willow wood. Question is do I split them now or wait until they've cured and then split them? I'm expecting to have to leave them about 2 years to cure unsplit, would it speed the process if I split them now? Having failed to do it at the time, fer chrissake split the willow before it dries. Its a complete ******* to split once it is. Guess what my afternoon task is today.. On a related note, I've looked at local and national hire shop web sites but can't immediately locate a log splitter. I don't expect to have any more tree logs coming my way for a good few years so hiring seems to make more sense then spending something like ?200 for a splitter (I know you can do it by hand and I also know that there are splitters for as little as ?150). I'm in "South Somerset" (between Yeovil/Frome/Wells/Street/Glastonbury/Radstock and, at a push, Bristol, Bath, Dorchester, Weymouth.). Buy a splitting maul. Or a bomb if you can find one. I am using a hatchet and a sledge for the willow. Since the bomb broke. At least when wedged right in you can knock it out. Any thing more or less wedge shaped steel will work if it can be driven in HARD. The beech I had doesn't need the sledge. It splits (after a year), with one mega whack from the hatchet, once sawn to 12" long pieces. Blackthorn, hawthiorn and maple are a shade tougher, as is fruit wood. Not done holly yet. Now I'm intrigued. What's the difference between a maul, a bomb and a grenade? |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
Graham Harrison wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Graham Harrison wrote: Having had some trees pruned I now have a pile of logs. Cut to length but will need splitting before I can burn them in the grate. I have Holly and Willow wood. Question is do I split them now or wait until they've cured and then split them? I'm expecting to have to leave them about 2 years to cure unsplit, would it speed the process if I split them now? Having failed to do it at the time, fer chrissake split the willow before it dries. Its a complete ******* to split once it is. Guess what my afternoon task is today.. On a related note, I've looked at local and national hire shop web sites but can't immediately locate a log splitter. I don't expect to have any more tree logs coming my way for a good few years so hiring seems to make more sense then spending something like ?200 for a splitter (I know you can do it by hand and I also know that there are splitters for as little as ?150). I'm in "South Somerset" (between Yeovil/Frome/Wells/Street/Glastonbury/Radstock and, at a push, Bristol, Bath, Dorchester, Weymouth.). Buy a splitting maul. Or a bomb if you can find one. I am using a hatchet and a sledge for the willow. Since the bomb broke. At least when wedged right in you can knock it out. Any thing more or less wedge shaped steel will work if it can be driven in HARD. The beech I had doesn't need the sledge. It splits (after a year), with one mega whack from the hatchet, once sawn to 12" long pieces. Blackthorn, hawthiorn and maple are a shade tougher, as is fruit wood. Not done holly yet. Now I'm intrigued. What's the difference between a maul, a bomb and a grenade? A maul is a wedge on a stick. Like a broad headed axe. A bomb or grenade is a cast iron wedge thing, ovoid to cruciform in cross section. That needs to be whacked with a hammer. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote: Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Nope. Brand new timber framed. To latest building regs. However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of heat out when they are not burning. In las with 6 bed house of similar size, but less well insulated and rick, burn even more. I am getting by on 3500-400 liters a year..they need 4000-5000. Even with open fires as well. I'd say the house is equivalent to three 'modern' 4 bed houses stuck together. Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night. similar temps here. Except we have given up on the UFH downstairs altogether till Sunvic send a replacement stat, so thats down around 14-15c from heat bleed from the Aga only. If we live in the kitchen office and bedroom ONLY thats about 1/3rd of the oil burned. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 28/1/08 13:35, in article
, "Dave Liquorice" wrote: On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote: Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night. We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice solid walls keep us very snug. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 2008-01-28 13:56:01 +0000, The Natural Philosopher said:
Andy Hall wrote: Hills? East Anglia? I didn't say mountains! We are almost - gasp - 200 meters above sea level..or is it 200 feet? Probably 200 ft. probably Norfolk and Suffolk are not fen. They start where the fens end, just about. They are gently rolling terminal moraines from the ice sheet, covered in sand and clay over a chalk substrate. The native tribes do not have webbed feet, and undertsand what a tree is. Not sure that that's true in parts of Norfolk ;-) |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 2008-01-28 14:28:12 +0000, Huge said:
On 2008-01-28, Dave Liquorice wrote: On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote: Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. Grief. OK, our house was built in 1977, has cavity wall insulation, double glazing throughout and 1970's standard loft insulation. Just goes to show that insulation is definitely worthwhile doing. BTW, I've been thinking about adding more loft insulation. Would that be worthwhile? Yes, but you must install at least 2m. Dr. D. says so. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
In article 479df114@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes: | On 2008-01-28 13:56:01 +0000, The Natural Philosopher said: | | Norfolk and Suffolk are not fen. They start where the fens end, just about. | | They are gently rolling terminal moraines from the ice sheet, covered | in sand and clay over a chalk substrate. | | The native tribes do not have webbed feet, and undertsand what a tree is. | | Not sure that that's true in parts of Norfolk ;-) Querying the word 'understand' in the context of the NFN, are you? :-) Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
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Curing and splitting wood for burning
In message , Sacha
writes We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice solid walls keep us very snug. Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Mind you, 25mm of Kingspan and boarding or render over 4" studwork walls is not a recipe for low cost heating. regards -- Tim Lamb |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
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Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote: In message , Sacha writes We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice solid walls keep us very snug. Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic. We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer, I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
In message , Sacha
writes On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim Lamb" wrote: Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic. We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer, I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out. Ah! I see. Have you asked what might be approved? Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work on the outer sheet. Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist. regards -- Tim Lamb |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
Sacha wrote:
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim Lamb" wrote: In message , Sacha writes We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice solid walls keep us very snug. Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic. We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer, I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out. The loss through a few small SG windows is not great. I've got these windows fitted to wooden frames..they were allowed on a new build..as everywhere else was insulated to the nines. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On 29/1/08 09:29, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote: In message , Sacha writes On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim Lamb" wrote: Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic. We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer, I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out. Ah! I see. Have you asked what might be approved? No, we haven't or not specifically about that. But my husband was given to understand some years ago that no such alterations or additions would be permitted. Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work on the outer sheet. I don't think we're in a particular conservation area. It's just that this house was the vicarage and was built by Miss Champernowne of Dartington Hall, as was the church. She gave the land and paid for the building. I believe she later paid for the building of the CoE school and the School House for the headmaster. The architect for church and house was John Loughborough Pearson and it's probably that which has attracted attention, rather than the overall area, if you see what I mean. That's not to say that it's not a beautiful place with some outstanding houses in it but it's my guess it's the peculiarity of ours that probably led to the Listing. Much of the farming here is on Church Commission land and when my husband bought the field behind us to make a car park, it hadn't changed hands for 1000 years! Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist. I think that would be a minor irritant, yes. But the depth of the chamfered mullions on the inside of the windows is such that I think it would be 8 or 9" before a fixing could be made onto the wood and we certainly wouldn't consider having any drilling into the stone. Double glazing would be terribly obtrusive here, I think. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
Off Topic Now Double Glazing
"Sacha" wrote in message . uk... On 29/1/08 09:29, in article , "Tim Lamb" wrote: In message , Sacha writes On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim Lamb" wrote: Why ever not? We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames. Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic. We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer, I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out. Ah! I see. Have you asked what might be approved? No, we haven't or not specifically about that. But my husband was given to understand some years ago that no such alterations or additions would be permitted. Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work on the outer sheet. I don't think we're in a particular conservation area. It's just that this house was the vicarage and was built by Miss Champernowne of Dartington Hall, as was the church. She gave the land and paid for the building. I believe she later paid for the building of the CoE school and the School House for the headmaster. The architect for church and house was John Loughborough Pearson and it's probably that which has attracted attention, rather than the overall area, if you see what I mean. That's not to say that it's not a beautiful place with some outstanding houses in it but it's my guess it's the peculiarity of ours that probably led to the Listing. Much of the farming here is on Church Commission land and when my husband bought the field behind us to make a car park, it hadn't changed hands for 1000 years! Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist. I think that would be a minor irritant, yes. But the depth of the chamfered mullions on the inside of the windows is such that I think it would be 8 or 9" before a fixing could be made onto the wood and we certainly wouldn't consider having any drilling into the stone. Double glazing would be terribly obtrusive here, I think. -- Sacha Plastics by Post Ltd http://www.plasticsbypost.net/ Glazing Materials Translucent Acrylic Sheeting. Cut to size and fitted with Magnetherm Adhesive tape. No drilling, nails or screws Removable for cleaning windows Undetectable so mind when you go to open a window. Preserves ALL features without masking or obliterating them. Been there. Done that in an old house. So I know it works. Kind regards Mike -- www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association. 'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates. www.iowtours.com for all ex-Service Reunions. More being added regularly After a lot of trouble www.nsrafa.org is now up and running for the National Service RAF man |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:33:15 +0000, David in Normandy wrote
(in article ): Huge says... snip Ankylosing spondylitis? I don't recall ever being given a specific name such as that, but the doctors spoke of the formation of bone spurs impinging my nerves and the degeneration of disks in my neck. To quote my medical report: At C4/5 level there is uncal osteophyte formation with some narrowing of the left exit foramen and probably impingement of the exiting nerve root. At C5/6 level there is left postero-lateral osteophyte formation, this would appear to be associated with a chronic protrusion. There is canal stenosis with cord compression and compression of the exiting left nerve root. (In none-medical jargon - It seriously bloody hurt!) Hi David, have only just caught up on some of my newsgroup reading and saw this. This sounds exactly like what I have, which is called Spinal Stenosis (NOT Ankylosing spondylitis, which my father had, and which is quite different). If you Google Spinal Stenosis you will find chapter and verse. I would urge you not to have surgery. My consultant once told me proudly (when I was resisting such) that he had done the same operation on one patient three times! He couldn't understand why I thought this was a failure, not a success. A friend of mine insisted that surgery was the only cure and that he had been told he would have a new quality of life within six months. He has. It's worse. This is seriously OT for this group except that gardeners have to watch their backs! If you want to take it to email, mine will work and I'll send you a real email address. -- Sally in Shropshire, UK Burne-Jones/William Morris window in Shropshire church with conservation churchyard: http://www.whitton-stmarys.org.uk |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
In article et,
lid says... On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:33:15 +0000, David in Normandy wrote (in article ): Huge says... snip Ankylosing spondylitis? I don't recall ever being given a specific name such as that, but the doctors spoke of the formation of bone spurs impinging my nerves and the degeneration of disks in my neck. To quote my medical report: At C4/5 level there is uncal osteophyte formation with some narrowing of the left exit foramen and probably impingement of the exiting nerve root. At C5/6 level there is left postero-lateral osteophyte formation, this would appear to be associated with a chronic protrusion. There is canal stenosis with cord compression and compression of the exiting left nerve root. (In none-medical jargon - It seriously bloody hurt!) Hi David, have only just caught up on some of my newsgroup reading and saw this. This sounds exactly like what I have, which is called Spinal Stenosis (NOT Ankylosing spondylitis, which my father had, and which is quite different). If you Google Spinal Stenosis you will find chapter and verse. I would urge you not to have surgery. My consultant once told me proudly (when I was resisting such) that he had done the same operation on one patient three times! He couldn't understand why I thought this was a failure, not a success. A friend of mine insisted that surgery was the only cure and that he had been told he would have a new quality of life within six months. He has. It's worse. This is seriously OT for this group except that gardeners have to watch their backs! If you want to take it to email, mine will work and I'll send you a real email address. I know its OT but I couldn't agree more, my sister had the op and was in such pain after that she had it done again after which she was worse and pleading with them to remove her leg (hers being the same problem in her lower back, but apparently removing the leg would not have removed the pain) now recovering from her third operation and life seems to be getting better and she is nearly back to the pain levals she lived with before the first op! In her case the original bad back was not caused by gardening but it has certainly restricted her ability to garden. (feeble attempt to get back on topic!) -- Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and Lapageria rosea |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
On Jan 31, 1:25*pm, Charlie Pridham
wrote: In article et, says... On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:33:15 +0000, David in Normandy wrote (in article ): Huge says... snip Ankylosing spondylitis? I don't recall ever being given a specific name such as that, but the doctors spoke of the formation of bone spurs impinging my nerves and the degeneration of disks in my neck. To quote my medical report: At C4/5 level there is uncal osteophyte formation with some narrowing of the left exit foramen and probably impingement of the exiting nerve root. At C5/6 level there is left postero-lateral osteophyte formation, this would appear to be associated with a chronic protrusion. There is canal stenosis with cord compression and compression of the exiting left nerve root. (In none-medical jargon - It seriously bloody hurt!) Hi David, have only just caught up on some of my newsgroup reading and saw this. *This sounds exactly like what I have, which is called Spinal Stenosis (NOT Ankylosing spondylitis, which my father had, and which is quite different). *If you Google Spinal Stenosis you will find chapter and verse. I would urge you not to have surgery. *My consultant once told me proudly (when I was resisting such) that he had done the same operation on one patient three times! *He couldn't understand why I thought this was a failure, not a success. *A friend of mine insisted that surgery was the only cure and that he had been told he would have a new quality of life within six months. *He has. *It's worse. This is seriously OT for this group except that gardeners have to watch their backs! *If you want to take it to email, mine will work and I'll send you a real email address. I know its OT but I couldn't agree more, my sister had the op and was in such pain after that she had it done again after which she was worse and pleading with them to remove her leg (hers being the same problem in her lower back, but apparently removing the leg would not have removed the pain) now recovering from her third operation and life seems to be getting better and she is nearly back to the pain levals she lived with before the first op! In her case the original bad back was not caused by gardening but it has certainly restricted her ability to garden. (feeble attempt to get back on topic!) -- Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwallwww.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and Lapageria rosea- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I've missed a lot of this but if you have a back condition where you can actually move then it's pilates pilates pilates. "Cured" me (symptom free) of a bad back and dodgey hip. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
adder1969 wrote:
snip I've missed a lot of this but if you have a back condition where you can actually move then it's pilates pilates pilates. "Cured" me (symptom free) of a bad back and dodgey hip. I am very glad that it helped you. But that is *not* universal advice to be followed. Partner gets worse if she does anything like pilates (and she has tried). -- Rod |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
I'm only in my 40's but have little bits of bone growing in
various places where they shouldn't. Some unfortunately into major nerves in my neck and also into my spinal cord. Thankfully it went into remission before my date for surgery came up so operation on hold. The surgery itself carries a risk of paralysis or death, so I'm hoping it stays permanently in remission. I just have to take care not to jar or inflame the vertebrae. Swinging an axe is something I do with care and moderation! David, this sounds horribly familiar. I have bony spurs growing on my neck vertebrae and without gentle chiropractic intervention can't walk straight after a week or so. Yesterday, I did some gentle gardening but it involved quite a lot of bending and then standing up etc. just to tidy things up and carry the debris to the wheelbarrow. Later that evening I had a sudden loss of balance which usually indicates my entire spine is right 'out'. A couple of weeks ago, I suddenly had a brief period of double vision and feeling very weak, almost faint. My previous doc wouldn't even arrange for an X-ray on the grounds that I wouldn't want an operation such as you describe, whatever happened to show up on the X-ray. The chiropractor *did* commission an X-ray and while it's not awful, it's not terrifically good, either. I wonder if you'd be kind enough to email me about this? (remove weeds from address) I'd be very glad to hear from someone with similar symptoms, though yours sound worse than mine are at present. I have similar things that come and go -- and thanks be, go for a lot of the time;!.. BTW read today on the Ceefax news that theres an upsurge in cases of Gout in the US of A, seems to be caused by too many sugary fizzy drinks wrong sort of fructose.. Not directly to do with osteophytes or bone spurs, but all part 'n parcel of the arthritic parcel of problems we have to endure;!.... BTW there is a news group uk.people.support.artertits but its a very low post rate group.. And some there are -very- afflicted by this awful condition:(. Some would love to be able to walk around in the garden, let alone tend it.. -- Tony Sayer |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
tony sayer wrote:
BTW there is a news group uk.people.support.artertits but its a very low post rate group.. I'm not surprised if that's what they called it. :) There are 9 groups on news containing "arthri" in the title on my server, a couple even mention "spondy". Andy |
Curing and splitting wood for burning
In article , Andy Champ
scribeth thus tony sayer wrote: BTW there is a news group uk.people.support.artertits but its a very low post rate group.. I'm not surprised if that's what they called it. :) There are 9 groups on news containing "arthri" in the title on my server, a couple even mention "spondy". Andy I am indebted to my 'learned friend for pointing out that my mind was clearly on another newsgroup;)... -- Tony Sayer |
Curing and splitting wood for burning - vents to my woodburners
However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of
heat out when they are not burning. im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners, which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows, but arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on, and the chimney cleverly muffled, so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss? -- [george] ~ [g] ~ ~ ~ ~ 07970 378 572 ~ ~ www.dicegeorge.com ~ ~ (c)2008 ~ ~ ~ "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Dave Liquorice wrote: On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote: Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year. I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Nope. Brand new timber framed. To latest building regs. However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of heat out when they are not burning. In las with 6 bed house of similar size, but less well insulated and rick, burn even more. I am getting by on 3500-400 liters a year..they need 4000-5000. Even with open fires as well. I'd say the house is equivalent to three 'modern' 4 bed houses stuck together. Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night. similar temps here. Except we have given up on the UFH downstairs altogether till Sunvic send a replacement stat, so thats down around 14-15c from heat bleed from the Aga only. If we live in the kitchen office and bedroom ONLY thats about 1/3rd of the oil burned. |
Curing and splitting wood for burning - vents to my woodburners
In article ,
says... However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of heat out when they are not burning. im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners, which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows, but arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on, and the chimney cleverly muffled, so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss? I am not sure that they are "meant to be" but mine have a rotating brass wheel that makes them open or shut, I put them in when I was renevating the Chimney but with the wood burning (which like most has doors) I have never had them open as there are no drafts -- Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and Lapageria rosea |
Curing and splitting wood for burning - vents to my woodburners
George (dicegeorge) wrote:
However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of heat out when they are not burning. im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners, which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows, but arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on, and the chimney cleverly muffled, so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss? Depends No one says you have to. Ours gets plant pots over em in summer..;-) Plugging chimneys is fine, if you CAN. |
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