?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

Hi,

I have a Mountfield M1 rotorvator with a Briggs and Stratton engine, model 111902. The problem is it runns for 10-15 minutes and the conks out. It will then not start for about 10 minutes. I have rebuilt the carburetor and replaced most of it. That has helped slightly as it only used to run for about 5 minutes before. I have also replaced the head gasket. The are under the head was rather black but I have cleaned this off. The inlet valve was a funny pink/coral colour. What can I do to make it run longer? Why does it keep stopping?

Thanks

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

In article ,
says...

Hi,

I have a Mountfield M1 rotorvator with a Briggs and Stratton engine,
model 111902. The problem is it runns for 10-15 minutes and the conks
out. It will then not start for about 10 minutes. I have rebuilt the
carburetor and replaced most of it. That has helped slightly as it
only used to run for about 5 minutes before. I have also replaced the
head gasket. The are under the head was rather black but I have
cleaned this off. The inlet valve was a funny pink/coral colour. What
can I do to make it run longer? Why does it keep stopping?

Thanks





Had a similar problem with one of their older generation mowers some time
ago, problem eventually taced to it running too hot which causes the
spark to fade, in the mowers case this was because my garden sloped and
their older mowers being splash lubricated were prone to overheating, but
I guess you could also get overheating from an incorrect fuel air
mixture. I solved the problem by taking the mower to the dump and never
buy mountfield again!
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

"Steve Sampson" wrote in message
...

Hi,

I have a Mountfield M1 rotorvator with a Briggs and Stratton engine,
model 111902. The problem is it runns for 10-15 minutes and the conks
out. It will then not start for about 10 minutes.

First check fuel is getting to the carb. Does the fuel run freely from the
supply pipe, if its an under carb tank is the diaphragm/gasket between carb
and tank in good nick/fitted correctly. Check the choke is it clearing the
carb opening okay. check the air filter, try running the engine without an
air filter. The filter or choke may be restricting air flow which the engine
won't mind whilst its cold but will object to once hot. If this is all ok
look to the main jet in the carb is it getting blocked by crap from a rusty
tank.

Then check the spark. Are you getting a spark when its hot? This may be
caused by a dodgy HT lead/cap. If the engine has points ignition have you
replaced them and the condenser. Both located inside the flywheel and can be
a bugger to get to. Have you dead stalled the engine by hitting something
solid? More common with direct drive rotary mowers I know but a bad stall
can slightly shear the woodruff key keeping the flywheel in position thus
altering the timing. Again a cold engine may not mind the timing being a bit
out but a hot one will.

If fuel and spark are okay, then the problem may be that the engine is
simply worn out, in which case Charlie had the best advise.

Mike
www.farend.org.uk

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

When I was looking for a rotavator a gent told me to stay clear of
Briggs and Stratton because they run for 10 minutes and stop. Have to
leave them and let them cool down and then they start. His advice to
me was to get a machine with a Honda engine because they are so
reliable.
Asking around to confirm this and got a few people saying the same
thing.
Unfortuantely Steve you are not the only one to have to suffer this
problem, regretably no simple solution (unless you fancy fitting a
different motor!)

Good luck

Clifford
Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

"cliff_the_gardener" wrote in message
...
When I was looking for a rotavator a gent told me to stay clear of
Briggs and Stratton because they run for 10 minutes and stop. Have to
leave them and let them cool down and then they start. His advice to
me was to get a machine with a Honda engine because they are so
reliable.
Asking around to confirm this and got a few people saying the same
thing.
Unfortuantely Steve you are not the only one to have to suffer this
problem, regretably no simple solution (unless you fancy fitting a
different motor!)

Yes the Honda is considered a better engine, yet I have owned (and still do
own) many B&S powered machines with no problem. My Billy Goat is B&S powered
and it starts second pull every time and runs perfectly as did my old Merry
Tiller rotavator that I gave away when I moved. Both my Hayter grass cutters
are B&S powered, so long as I remember to run them dry at the end of the
mowing season they both have always started with ease at the beginning of
the new season and continue to do so hot or cold. Admittedly they are both
electric start which makes life easier. My only 4 stroke machine without a
B&S engine is the snow blower which has a Tecumseh Snow King. Again it has
never failed to start when I have asked it to but I do look after it with
regular oil changes and fresh fuel into a dry tank each season.

Mike

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

On 8 Mar, 17:21, "Muddymike" wrote:
"cliff_the_gardener" wrote in message

...

When I was looking for a rotavator a gent told me to stay clear of
Briggs and Stratton because they run for 10 minutes and stop. Have to
leave them and let them cool down and then they start. *His advice to
me was to get a machine with a Honda engine because they are so
reliable.
Asking around to confirm this and got a few people saying the same
thing.
Unfortuantely Steve you are not the only one to have to suffer this
problem, regretably no simple solution (unless you fancy fitting a
different motor!)

Yes the Honda is considered a better engine, yet I have owned (and still do
own) many B&S powered machines with no problem. My Billy Goat is B&S powered
and it starts second pull every time and runs perfectly as did my old Merry
Tiller rotavator that I gave away when I moved. Both my Hayter grass cutters
are B&S powered, so long as I remember to run them dry at the end of the
mowing season they both have always started with ease at the beginning of
the new season and continue to do so hot or cold. Admittedly they are both
electric start which makes life easier. My only 4 stroke machine without a
B&S engine is the snow blower which has a Tecumseh Snow King. Again it has
never failed to start when I have asked it to but I do look after it with
regular oil changes and fresh fuel into a dry tank each season.

Mike

Sounds like a problem I once had, the cap on the petrol tank wasn't
letting air into the tank so a vaccume was developing so stoping the
fuel from flowing.after a few minutes the air seeped back into the
tank and it would go again for a few mins.
worth checking.

David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

On Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:42:47 -0000, Charlie Pridham wrote:

I guess you could also get overheating from an incorrect fuel air
mixture.

The pink valves indicate over heating but that normally affects exhaust
valves not inlet. Black deposits on the head stikes me as indication of
the mixture being a bit rich but that is contra indicated by hot valves
which are normally associted with the mixture being lean...

These carbs are horribly simple maybe idle is rich and running lean? They
can also be right beggers to set up if one of the jet adjusters has been
screwed in two hard and deformed the needle or seat...

I solved the problem by taking the mower to the dump and never buy
mountfield again!

Why single out Mountfield? The majority of non-honda engined stuff has B&S
engine...

--
Cheers
Dave.

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

Do you live at Poets Corner?

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

In article et,
says...
On Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:42:47 -0000, Charlie Pridham wrote:

I guess you could also get overheating from an incorrect fuel air
mixture.

The pink valves indicate over heating but that normally affects exhaust
valves not inlet. Black deposits on the head stikes me as indication of
the mixture being a bit rich but that is contra indicated by hot valves
which are normally associted with the mixture being lean...

These carbs are horribly simple maybe idle is rich and running lean? They
can also be right beggers to set up if one of the jet adjusters has been
screwed in two hard and deformed the needle or seat...

I solved the problem by taking the mower to the dump and never buy
mountfield again!

Why single out Mountfield? The majority of non-honda engined stuff has B&S
engine...


Well it was 25 years ago now! but I was incensed that they chose to put
an engine on one of their larger machines that was not fit for purpose,
it would only work on flat lawns according to mountfield, something they
had avoided mentioning before I bought it, they then refused to rectify
the situation, either repair or replace, nor did they offer to compensate
for the costs of repairs which ran to hundreds of pounds, so although I
am aware that the newer B&S engines are fine, and that mountfield are
probebly no worse than much of the other kit being sold, I personally
would not have one of their machines as a gift never mind paying for it.
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

After reading just about every thing I can on rotavators before I buy one I have come to the conclusion that it is not so much the b&s engine there are far to many very good reports on them maybe its just that mountfield rotavators as a hole are shit

?m1 Mountfield Rotorvator
 

Lesley wrote

After reading just about every thing I can on rotavators before I buy one I
have come to the conclusion that it is not so much the b&s engine there are
far to many very good reports on them maybe its just that mountfield
rotavators as a hole are shit.


One of the cheaper makes and with all garden machinery you get what you pay
for.
Depends how much you want to spend?
I've got a Honda one (Eqv F220) that I've had for many years and it starts
first pull even after being laid up for months and all I've ever done is
change the oil, spares are also available which is handy because I've worn
out one set of tines and replaced them.
http://www.honda.co.uk/garden/tillers/
Viking are part of the Stihl group and they also make tillers.
http://www.vikingmowers.co.uk/VIKING...0/Tillers.aspx

If you can get one that you can adjust the handles sideways so you don't
have to walk on what you have tilled then so much the better.

--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK