I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels. Vegetables, soft
and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a bad
temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but even so,
I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and get it to stay
readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to make a
flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I wonder if there is a
dual purpose one that can also produce stiff plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and weaknesses and
the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife is happy
to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on it, but I do have
'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a question of
buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label. Nowadays, I
get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print "Prune March, pick
October."

TIA


--
Regards
Pat Gardiner
Test British pigs for MRSA now!
www.go-self-sufficient.com

"Pat Gardiner" wrote in message
...
I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels. Vegetables, soft
and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a bad
temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but even
so, I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and get it to stay
readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to make a
flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I wonder if there is
a dual purpose one that can also produce stiff plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and weaknesses
and the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife is happy
to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on it, but I do
have 'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a question
of buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label. Nowadays,
I get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print "Prune March, pick
October."

TIA


--
Regards
Pat Gardiner
Test British pigs for MRSA now!
www.go-self-sufficient.com




Avery Labels 7160 stuck back to back and laminated. Plant on the front. Info
on the back.

Design Pro 5 is the programme. I believe it can be downloaded now.

Simple programme I print 1000's of labels a year

Hope that helps

Mike


--
www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

On 9 Apr, 18:16, "'Mike'" wrote:
"Pat Gardiner" wrote in message

...





I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels. Vegetables, soft
and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a bad
temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but even
so, I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and get it to stay
readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to make a
flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I wonder if there is
a dual purpose one that can also produce stiff plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and weaknesses
and the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife is happy
to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on it, but I do
have 'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a question
of buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label. Nowadays,
I get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print "Prune March, pick
October."

TIA

--
Regards
Pat Gardiner
Test British pigs for MRSA now!
www.go-self-sufficient.com

Avery Labels 7160 stuck back to back and laminated. Plant on the front. Info
on the back.

Design Pro 5 is the programme. I believe it can be downloaded now.

Simple programme I print 1000's of labels a year

Hope that helps

Mike

--www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I find that an ordinary HB pencil seems to last the longest and
doesn't fade, will write on most plastic labels
David Hill

In article ,
says...
I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels. Vegetables, soft
and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a bad
temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but even so,
I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and get it to stay
readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to make a
flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I wonder if there is a
dual purpose one that can also produce stiff plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and weaknesses and
the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife is happy
to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on it, but I do have
'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a question of
buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label. Nowadays, I
get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print "Prune March, pick
October."

TIA



To print labels for out door use you need a thermal transfer printer the
cost 2-300 GBP and soft plastic labels which last longer than the hard
plastics (but all will break in strong wind) I used some old lead sheet
into which I scatched the names of the fruit trees that has lasted 26
years. but you can also get smaller hand held labeling machines like dymo
and brother.
Its worth saying what sort of labels you wish to use when buying as some
of the lower end thermal transfer printers can get their pring heads worn
out by the harder stick labels but are fine with the softer wrap around
sorts.
I would imagine lasar printers would be better than ink jet if on plastic
but still not as good as thermal transfer.
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

Dave Hill wrote:
On 9 Apr, 18:16, "'Mike'" wrote:
"Pat Gardiner" wrote in message

...





I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels.
Vegetables, soft and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and
outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a
bad temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but
even so, I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and
get it to stay readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to
make a flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I
wonder if there is a dual purpose one that can also produce stiff
plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and
weaknesses and the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife
is happy to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on
it, but I do have 'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a
question of buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label.
Nowadays, I get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print
"Prune March, pick October."

TIA

--
Regards
Pat Gardiner
Test British pigs for MRSA now!
www.go-self-sufficient.com


I find that an ordinary HB pencil seems to last the longest and
doesn't fade, will write on most plastic labels
David Hill

Yes, pencils are best (nothing like using low-tech, is there?!).

Scratch labels aren't bad. See he
http://www.twowests.co.uk/TwoWestsSite/product/BPSI.htm. Don't know if they
are still made, though.

--
Jeff
(cut "thetape" to reply)

On 9/4/08 18:04, in article , "Pat
Gardiner" wrote:

I'd like some advice please.

I have a large garden, orchards, greenhouses and tunnels. Vegetables, soft
and top fruit, vegetables both under cover and outside.

Labelling takes a lot of effort, creates many blunt pencils and a bad
temper.

I have found a pencil that stays readable for longer "Rainbow"- but even so,
I like to label the many fruit varieties accurately and get it to stay
readable.

I have been looking at these machines that are about, they seem to make a
flexible label suitable for trees and soft fruit, but I wonder if there is a
dual purpose one that can also produce stiff plastic.

Anyway, can anyone advise me about makes, their stengths and weaknesses and
the all important labels themselves.

I don't mind getting a special printer for the garden, as my wife is happy
to explain in detail I can spend like a drunken sailor on it, but I do have
'puter and a good HP office printer.

Would I be duplicating something I can do already? Is it just a question of
buying the right ink and sheets of labels?

I would like, if possible, to print on both sides of the label. Nowadays, I
get some help and it is useful if I can f.e. print "Prune March, pick
October."

TIA

The problem with all printed labels is the fading over time. In a private
garden and with enough time to do it, I'd go for lead labels and 'scratch'
what you want onto those. Many places sell them and they're both attractive
and practical for the private gardener, IMO. Otherwise, my personal
experience is that Dymo labels last as well, if not better, than most
things.

--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

"Sacha" wrote
The problem with all printed labels is the fading over time. In a private
garden and with enough time to do it, I'd go for lead labels and 'scratch'
what you want onto those. Many places sell them and they're both
attractive
and practical for the private gardener, IMO. Otherwise, my personal
experience is that Dymo labels last as well, if not better, than most
things.

We used Dymo out on the allotment for years on white painted sticks and now
use the Brother Labeller machine most GCs sell and find that they work even
better, not least because you can get black letters on white background. We
stick the labels onto large white plastic labels.

--
Regards
Bob Hobden

"Bob Hobden" wrote in message
...

"Sacha" wrote
The problem with all printed labels is the fading over time. In a
private
garden and with enough time to do it, I'd go for lead labels and
'scratch'
what you want onto those. Many places sell them and they're both
attractive
and practical for the private gardener, IMO. Otherwise, my personal
experience is that Dymo labels last as well, if not better, than most
things.

We used Dymo out on the allotment for years on white painted sticks and
now use the Brother Labeller machine most GCs sell and find that they work
even better, not least because you can get black letters on white
background. We stick the labels onto large white plastic labels.

Many thanks all for advice.

I'm probably more fanatical than most about labelling ( Certainly more
fanatical than some nurseries! ) I remember the old grey metal scratch
labels but haven't seen them for years.

Interestingly today, I was very amused to find that one of our most
prominent seed suppliers has been naughty.

I kept my emply packet of a variety of squash from a previous years, as a
reminder to buy some more. Unable to get the original variety, I bought the
nearest to it with a different name and description, but the same supplier
with colourful packet

Examination later revealed that the photo was the same, colour changed
slightly and very thoughtfully reversed, with printing obscuring the most
obvious points of similarity.

My wife's family were all in the seed trade, so I can have an interesting
day or two muttering about marrying into a bunch of rogues.


--
Regards
Pat Gardiner
Test British pigs for MRSA now!
www.go-self-sufficient.com


--
Regards
Bob Hobden

On 10/4/08 17:39, in article , "Pat
Gardiner" wrote:


"Bob Hobden" wrote in message
...

"Sacha" wrote
The problem with all printed labels is the fading over time. In a
private
garden and with enough time to do it, I'd go for lead labels and
'scratch'
what you want onto those. Many places sell them and they're both
attractive
and practical for the private gardener, IMO. Otherwise, my personal
experience is that Dymo labels last as well, if not better, than most
things.

We used Dymo out on the allotment for years on white painted sticks and
now use the Brother Labeller machine most GCs sell and find that they work
even better, not least because you can get black letters on white
background. We stick the labels onto large white plastic labels.

Many thanks all for advice.

I'm probably more fanatical than most about labelling ( Certainly more
fanatical than some nurseries! ) I remember the old grey metal scratch
labels but haven't seen them for years.

I'm thinking of the quite prettily shaped lead ones - faux lead?. I think
the RHS or NT does them, or something similar. And these are attractive
http://www.eclection.net/product_inf...roducts_id=156

Interestingly today, I was very amused to find that one of our most
prominent seed suppliers has been naughty.

I kept my emply packet of a variety of squash from a previous years, as a
reminder to buy some more. Unable to get the original variety, I bought the
nearest to it with a different name and description, but the same supplier
with colourful packet

Examination later revealed that the photo was the same, colour changed
slightly and very thoughtfully reversed, with printing obscuring the most
obvious points of similarity.

My wife's family were all in the seed trade, so I can have an interesting
day or two muttering about marrying into a bunch of rogues.


;-))

Labelling is the bane of our lives - sometimes. You can label as carefully
as you like but customers take stick in labels out of pots, read them and
drop them on the ground or, worse still, put them into the wrong pots. One
day I watched a child, observed by its uncaring mother, wandering up a bank
of plants here, taking labels out of every pot and alternating them with the
next door pat of a totally different species or variety every time. We must
sweep up hundreds of labels every year. Tie-ons don't suffer the same fate
but you can't use those on emerging perennials.

--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

"Sacha" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/08 17:39, in article , "Pat
Gardiner" wrote:


"Bob Hobden" wrote in message
...

"Sacha" wrote
The problem with all printed labels is the fading over time. In a
private
garden and with enough time to do it, I'd go for lead labels and
'scratch'
what you want onto those. Many places sell them and they're both
attractive
and practical for the private gardener, IMO. Otherwise, my personal
experience is that Dymo labels last as well, if not better, than most
things.

We used Dymo out on the allotment for years on white painted sticks and
now use the Brother Labeller machine most GCs sell and find that they
work
even better, not least because you can get black letters on white
background. We stick the labels onto large white plastic labels.

Many thanks all for advice.

I'm probably more fanatical than most about labelling ( Certainly more
fanatical than some nurseries! ) I remember the old grey metal scratch
labels but haven't seen them for years.

I'm thinking of the quite prettily shaped lead ones - faux lead?. I think
the RHS or NT does them, or something similar. And these are attractive
http://www.eclection.net/product_inf...roducts_id=156

I came across this idea used re-cycled drinks cans, which I thought I'd give
a go:

http://www.runnerduck.com/plant_tags.htm

Mark

I came across this idea used re-cycled drinks cans, which I thought I'd
give a go:

http://www.runnerduck.com/plant_tags.htm

Mark


And then give a coat of varnish to waterproof?

Lovely idea for rainy days :-)

Mike


--
www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

On 11 Apr, 09:02, "'Mike'" wrote:
I came across this idea used re-cycled drinks cans, which I thought I'd
give a go:

http://www.runnerduck.com/plant_tags.htm

Mark

And then give a coat of varnish to waterproof?

Lovely idea for rainy days :-)

Mike

--www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

If you are using wire on trees then wind some of it around a cane or
biro to give you what looks like a spring , with this in the loop
around the tree then as the tree grows the wire loop can evpand with
the trunk and not get grown over.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

"Dave Hill" wrote in message
...
On 11 Apr, 09:02, "'Mike'" wrote:
I came across this idea used re-cycled drinks cans, which I thought I'd
give a go:

http://www.runnerduck.com/plant_tags.htm

Mark

And then give a coat of varnish to waterproof?

Lovely idea for rainy days :-)

Mike

--www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

If you are using wire on trees then wind some of it around a cane or
biro to give you what looks like a spring , with this in the loop
around the tree then as the tree grows the wire loop can evpand with
the trunk and not get grown over.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

I have some wonderful pictures I took of a tree which had a wire hawser put
round it to support a fence. Completely grown over :-( Which site can I post
them on?

Mike


--
www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

In article 24fd4b60-f033-470c-87ea-
,
says...
On 11 Apr, 09:02, "'Mike'" wrote:
I came across this idea used re-cycled drinks cans, which I thought I'd
give a go:

http://www.runnerduck.com/plant_tags.htm

Mark

And then give a coat of varnish to waterproof?

Lovely idea for rainy days :-)

Mike

--www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.

If you are using wire on trees then wind some of it around a cane or
biro to give you what looks like a spring , with this in the loop
around the tree then as the tree grows the wire loop can evpand with
the trunk and not get grown over.
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

Thats a realy useful tip, you always mean to remember but always seem to
forget!!
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

"'Mike'" wrote in message
...
I have some wonderful pictures I took of a tree which had a wire hawser
put round it to support a fence. Completely grown over :-( Which site can
I post them on?


I use Twango, it works for me. If you don't want to start your own album
send the pics to me and I will put them up on mine for a while for folk to
take a look.

Mike (another one)