Greenhouse Base - how level?
Hi All,
I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'm using a metal base supplied with the greenhouse. With this amount of fall is it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level it up (if so using what?)? The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so it won't have to content with very high winds. I'd appreciate any advice. |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'd appreciate any advice. I would not worry about so little fall. Mike |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Muddymike" wrote in message ... "tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'd appreciate any advice. I would not worry about so little fall. Mike except that verticals will not be vertical and from a distance the lean will be noticeable if there are other true verticals in line of sight. Drive me mad that would. Mike |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Muddymike" wrote in message ... "tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'd appreciate any advice. I would not worry about so little fall. You will have no end of troubles if you do not ensure that the metal base is horizontal. I would suggest that you lay it first on your slabs and pack it up at the low point. You can then mortar the increasing gap across the base and along one side. Alternatively you could relay the slabs level. Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Muddymike" wrote in message ... "tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'd appreciate any advice. I would not worry about so little fall. You will have no end of troubles if you do not ensure that the metal base is horizontal. I would suggest that you lay it first on your slabs and pack it up at the low point. You can then mortar the increasing gap across the base and along one side. Alternatively you could relay the slabs level. Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Granity" wrote in message ... I love people who mix feet and millimeters :-) Probably won't matter too much if it's polycarbonate glazed but with glass it is a bit of a strain on the structure which eventually will shorten it's life, but you don't really need to worry. You can easily level it using drymix under the low side, put it in position, level using a couple of bits of tile or something, then push drymix into the gap and leave to set. (or you could rip the slabs up and relay them :-( ) -- Granity And where are you that it is already afternoon ? Regards Pete |
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Probably won't matter too much if it's polycarbonate glazed but with glass it is a bit of a strain on the structure which eventually will shorten it's life, but you don't really need to worry. You can easily level it using drymix under the low side, put it in position, level using a couple of bits of tile or something, then push drymix into the gap and leave to set. (or you could rip the slabs up and relay them :-( ) |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. I'm using a metal base supplied with the greenhouse. With this amount of fall is it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level it up (if so using what?)? The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so it won't have to content with very high winds. I'd appreciate any advice. If it's sheltered from strong winds I wouldn't even bother bolting it down, when it's glazed it's not going to go anywhere. As for the fall, so little is not going to be a problem unless it's in the direction that means the rain will come off in the most inconvenient place, ie where you can't site a water butt. But the bottom sections of many greenhouses are shaped with a lip rather than being flat, this means that you can screw it to timber, I would use as heavy as possible, and this also gives you the opportunity to adjust the fall. Steve |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"shazzbat" wrote in message ... If it's sheltered from strong winds I wouldn't even bother bolting it down, when it's glazed it's not going to go anywhere. As for the fall, so little is not going to be a problem unless it's in the direction that means the rain will come off in the most inconvenient place, ie where you can't site a water butt. But the bottom sections of many greenhouses are shaped with a lip rather than being flat, this means that you can screw it to timber, I would use as heavy as possible, and this also gives you the opportunity to adjust the fall. But tjr has already told us that has a metal base. Why introduce a rot factor by incorporating timber ? If you do not start off with a level base you run the risk of assembly troubles the nature of which depends on the style of structure. Been there - done that ( with a Halls Ally 8 x 6ft one) !! Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
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I know you ugers don't like the forum, but I belong to quite a lot of different groups and quite honestly forums are much less trouble as you don't get a constant stream of of things to sort through, just pick out what you are interested in. |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Granity" wrote in message ... It appears that us registered users posts don't appear to you when we post them but at some arbitrary time in the future. :-) I know you ugers don't like the forum, but I belong to quite a lot of different groups and quite honestly forums are much less trouble as you don't get a constant stream of of things to sort through, just pick out what you are interested in. I am an ugler who does not dislike "the forum". I just fail to understand why the time that the post was sent seems to be incorrect. Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
Hi All,
Thanks for the advice. On closer inspection the fall was more like 20mm so I've gone for the mortar option to get it level. It will be sited very close to a shed so the effect of a slope on the verticals would show up. I bolted down to the slabs as I didn't want to take any chances with it moving. Just gotta wait for the mortar to set before I can build it now! |
PS - something very strange happening with the time on this board. I posted this at 12:30PM and it says 5:40 PM. I've checked that my profile is set to GMT so who knows what's happening!
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Greenhouse Base - how level?
"tjr" wrote in message ... Hi All, Thanks for the advice. On closer inspection the fall was more like 20mm so I've gone for the mortar option to get it level. It will be sited very close to a shed so the effect of a slope on the verticals would show up. I bolted down to the slabs as I didn't want to take any chances with it moving. Just gotta wait for the mortar to set before I can build it now! -- tjr I am relieved to learn that you have bolted it down. There are two extremes in the "sheltered" mode. I had failed to advise that in my earlier posts and the cost is minimal for the added security. What make and model is it by the way ? Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
tjr wrote:
Hi All, Thanks for the advice. On closer inspection the fall was more like 20mm so I've gone for the mortar option to get it level. It will be sited very close to a shed so the effect of a slope on the verticals would show up. I bolted down to the slabs as I didn't want to take any chances with it moving. Just gotta wait for the mortar to set before I can build it now! An additional reason is that you would have problems with rainwater collection - would be forced to the lower end. -- CTC Right to Ride Rep. for Richmond upon Thames |
Update: My greenhouse is now complete. It was definitely worth the extra time to level up and secure the base as it feels very solid. Thanks to all for the advice.
Pete - It's a Halls Supreme. My choice was heavily influenced by my wife who liked the curved roof panels. As it had to be situated in a fairly prominent position in our garden I wouldn't have been allowed anything she considered ugly! Construction was simple enough, though a few of the instructions were a bit vague! Halls - if you're reading this some better quality photos would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got long arms!). There are a few leaks but I'm sure I can sort them over time with some silicone sealant. Too bad its autumn, and I've got to wait for the next season to start using it - unless anyone has some good ideas about what to grow over the winter. |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Granity" wrote in message ... LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down methinks. :-( -- Granity I used "Barrowmix" (wet) and found it just fine. As well as the base foundation - you could consider using it for a central pathway. More digging I am afraid ! Sounds like you could do with a little help from a friend or go mechanical !! Regards Pete www.thecanalshop.com |
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Hopefully my son will appear to help if not then it will just take time. |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
In article , Granity
writes LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down methinks. :-( We've just got a 8 x 14 Rhino greenhouse. Wonderful!! It came with 8 vents with automatic openers and two side louvres. Paid extra for blinds on one side of the roof (greenhouse now turned to north south axis). It's feels much, much bigger than the old one because of course the sides are straight rather than the leaning ones of the cedar Alton. I took the old Alton down, though it took a bit of huffing and puffing and pure grit at one point to get the glass out as the thing was so swaybacked it's a wonder it didn't fall down before I dismantled it!" I won't put anything in it even low staging yet until i have dug out wither side and put down weed suppressant matting and then shingle. Bit tricky once the staging is in!. Ended up trailing the pole with the electric wire inside, under the greenhouse frame in a channel and so I'll have to have a think about the way i am going to fix it to aboard inside. It also came with guttering and hose pipe connections at each corner so i can fix a huge tank to the short end . It'll never look so good as it does now of course - all shiny and new:) -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
tjr wrote:
would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got long arms!). Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a Halls, and the back is going to be against a 6' fence. Thanks. |
Greenhouse Base - how level?
"Ian Prideaux" wrote in message ... tjr wrote: would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got long arms!). Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a Halls, and the back is going to be against a 6' fence. Thanks. If it is hard against a 6' fence, just as ours is, don't glaze, panel with ply from the inside :-) Mike |
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I managed the whole job by myself, but if you have an extra pair of hands to help you it would be a lot easier, as they can hold the glass in place whilst you get the clips in. The main drawback of this approach is that it will be very difficult to replace a broken pane. If one ever breaks at the back I'd have to remove other panels to get to the broken one. It's in a very sheltered position so the main risk will be if I break it from inside! |
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[QUOTE
I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs. The slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level. I'm building a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm. [/quote] You were lucky. Having struggled for 2 days to remove the old G/H and put the base together for the 8x10 we laid it on the ground and got the spirit level out :-( With the back left corner on the ground the front right is 7" high, the front left 5" high and the back right 2" high. This leaves me with a serious problem, if I dig out the back by 7" it means the gravel (the area is membraned with 2" of gravel on top) will be above the bottom of the glass. If I compromise say dig out 3" and thin down the gravel it still leaves a step at the door of about 9" which is silly and impossible to get a wheel barrow inside easily ( the base unit is 5" high) Seems like a lot of landscaping is needed to level the whole area. :-( :-( |
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http://www.gabrielash.com/base-calculator good luck ! |
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