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#16
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Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 6, 7:50*pm, aquachimp
wrote: On Jun 6, 4:17*pm, "mo" wrote: these are concrete posts by the way. they are 9 foot as i have 6 foot posts and a gravel board - so i might end up putting just over 2 foot underground the electric post borer is looking more attractive if it will save me a LOT more time. The one up there is not electrical. It's 2stroke engine. And as stated, suitable for soft ground. i am guessing tho it will just me me a nice snug hole straight down - Not to fast straight down I hope; When they shoot down like that they can be a devil of a job to get back out again. will the hole be wide enough No, not a chance. I forgot to add, what you'll need is ballast, least, I think that's what it's called in the UK (sand&stones mix, probably 25kg bags; at least, & @ a bag per post, with cement at say; 5 to 1 ballast-cement and not too wet.) Also, something like a pickaxe handle (wider at the base) to pack in the mix around the posts. I don't think postcrete has enough grittiness for use with concrete posts. That extra stoniness adds to the working stability. If you're doing this all on your lonesome and can spread the work over time, I suggest you put in just one post on day one. Next day, or there after, it should be well set to help you out a bit. But if fencing to an existing set structure you wont need to wait. Using the gravel board in position, locate the position of the next post and dig it out. No need for measuring tape. Put in the next post, and check it's plume against the gravel board side, the first post/ existing structure being already set, you can fiddle about pressing the new post into the GB. You can even position the fence panels (I'm assuming...) but you'll need to give them independent support front and back so as their potential leaning weight do not sway the post to lean out of alignment. In fact, if you're doing this alone it's worth doing so because lifting panels to slide into position between the (grooved?) concrete posts is very difficult on ones own. Then continue with the others. or will i need to put a couple of heales near each I'm unfamiliar with "heales" other to make it wide enough? |
#18
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Digging a fence panel post hole
Posts delivered today, they are massive.
I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me. |
#19
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Digging a fence panel post hole
Oh - come on - to dig an old post out and put a new one I only allow
an hour per post, in all of my fencing jobs, and thats only with a ditching shovel and maybe a concrete breaker. But the time you have messed around on the forums ( 4 days ) you could have taken out and put in 28 posts. Posts delivered today, they are massive. I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me. |
#20
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Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 8, 9:08*pm, "mo" wrote:
Posts delivered today, they are massive. I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me.. Yep, 9' concrete posts are heavy. BTW, You'll need a string line long enough for a double line. 1 just above the ground, the other around eye level, or just above (not below) This help to speed up the checking on the leaning, in or out. A spirit level A crow-bar can be very useful A measuring tape, to mark off depth on the posts level to the top of the gravel board, unless the posts come with very handy marking A wheel barrow can be handy too for either mixing the mix, or just carting away the excess soil. |
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