Digging a fence panel post hole
Hi
I need to install 7 fence posts, I want to do them AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! They are 9 foot posts As I understand it I should aim to do a narrow hole as possible. But I have also read I should stick some hardcore down there to help hold it in place - doesn't this mean I should dig the holes a bit wider than the post itself? or they just mean smaller rubble? Anyhow, which tool will do it for me the quickest? http://www.hss.com/g/62720/Post-Hole-Borer-Manual.html Looks a bit small.....? http://www.hss.com/g/50631/Shovel-Holer.html Any good? I also saw a digging shovel available elsewhe http://www.triadsupply.com/products/...392_shovel.jpg Thanks! |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 4, 10:16*pm, "mo" wrote:
Hi I need to install 7 fence posts, I want to do them AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! They are 9 foot posts As I understand it I should aim to do a narrow hole as possible. But I have also read I should stick some hardcore down there to help hold it in place - doesn't this mean I should dig the holes a bit wider than the post itself? or they just mean smaller rubble? Anyhow, which tool will do it for me the quickest? http://www.hss.com/g/62720/Post-Hole-Borer-Manual.html Looks a bit small.....? http://www.hss.com/g/50631/Shovel-Holer.html Any good? I also saw a digging shovel available elsewhe http://www.triadsupply.com/products/...392_shovel.jpg Thanks! Frankly none of the above. Go to your nearest tool hire company and tell them what you want to do. They will have a post hole borer you can hire that will do the job with the least effort and greatest efficiency. Yes you must make the hole bigger than the post so that you can put some concrete in it to hold the post securely particularly if they are nine foot posts! |
Digging a fence panel post hole
"mo" wrote in message ... Hi I need to install 7 fence posts, I want to do them AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! They are 9 foot posts As I understand it I should aim to do a narrow hole as possible. But I have also read I should stick some hardcore down there to help hold it in place - doesn't this mean I should dig the holes a bit wider than the post itself? or they just mean smaller rubble? Anyhow, which tool will do it for me the quickest? http://www.hss.com/g/62720/Post-Hole-Borer-Manual.html Looks a bit small.....? http://www.hss.com/g/50631/Shovel-Holer.html Any good? I also saw a digging shovel available elsewhe http://www.triadsupply.com/products/...392_shovel.jpg Thanks! Post Hole Borer Manual in the first link,i used one to put in 10 fence posts, a doddle. Bore the hole bit of rubble & then I used post mix (B&Q, Wickes) per post. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
"mo" wrote in message ... Hi I need to install 7 fence posts, I want to do them AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! Regardless of how you dig the holes if you want a quick job fill them in with quick setting postcrete or similar. It comes ready mixed in bags from your favourite builders merchant. Mixing normal concrete is cheaper, but takes a lot more time to set. In my experience a small hole is only best in solid ground. In soft sandy soils a bigger hole and more postcrete/concrete is more stable. Mike |
Digging a fence panel post hole
In my experience a small hole is only best in solid ground. In soft sandy
soils a bigger hole and more postcrete/concrete is more stable. Mike When I had my fence posts and fence panels delivered, the chap who delivered then was an expert, it was his own business and had years of experience. "You have very soft soil here, you need to make a big hole and concrete them in" which I did. The trouble was that they have nearly all rotted off by now at ground level. The fence was put up about 20 years + ago and they started rotting at out 10 years ago Mike |
Digging a fence panel post hole
"'Mike'" wrote in message ... In my experience a small hole is only best in solid ground. In soft sandy soils a bigger hole and more postcrete/concrete is more stable. Mike When I had my fence posts and fence panels delivered, the chap who delivered then was an expert, it was his own business and had years of experience. "You have very soft soil here, you need to make a big hole and concrete them in" which I did. The trouble was that they have nearly all rotted off by now at ground level. The fence was put up about 20 years + ago and they started rotting at out 10 years ago Softwood posts? I used oak at the last house, we lived there 20 years and when we left there was no sign of any posts rotting. I even built a chicken run using cheap reject (warped, bark edged, etc) oak posts at the same time. These were never treated with anything and still stand straight (well as straight as the warped ones could stand) with no sign of rotting off today. My old fence has been replaced with some thing prettier, must ask what the posts were like when they were taken out next time I visit. Mike (The muddy one) |
Digging a fence panel post hole
-- .. "Muddymike" wrote in message om... "'Mike'" wrote in message ... In my experience a small hole is only best in solid ground. In soft sandy soils a bigger hole and more postcrete/concrete is more stable. Mike When I had my fence posts and fence panels delivered, the chap who delivered then was an expert, it was his own business and had years of experience. "You have very soft soil here, you need to make a big hole and concrete them in" which I did. The trouble was that they have nearly all rotted off by now at ground level. The fence was put up about 20 years + ago and they started rotting at out 10 years ago Softwood posts? I used oak at the last house, we lived there 20 years and when we left there was no sign of any posts rotting. I even built a chicken run using cheap reject (warped, bark edged, etc) oak posts at the same time. These were never treated with anything and still stand straight (well as straight as the warped ones could stand) with no sign of rotting off today. My old fence has been replaced with some thing prettier, must ask what the posts were like when they were taken out next time I visit. Mike (The muddy one) :-(( Soft wood :-(( Mike |
Digging a fence panel post hole
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Digging a fence panel post hole
"prb" wrote in message om... If you fill the hole with rubble or bricks etc, all you are doing is making a nice sump for water to sit in thereby rotting the post. Fill the hole with concrete. how much conrete should i put in exactly? if you say 2 foot of the post is going in - how much extra space should i dig around (under?) the post so i can stick the concrete in, guy suggested 1 bag of mix per post - but i don't have the bags yet and i have no idea how much concrete there will be when its mixed! |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 08:47:56 +0100, prb wrote:
If you fill the hole with rubble or bricks etc, all you are doing is making a nice sump for water to sit in thereby rotting the post. Fill the hole with concrete. Eh? Rubble with nice big gaps between it forms a sump and hole full of concrete, with no gaps, doesn't? Not that it makes much difference, as another poster has said the posts will rot just above ground level. This is because the rot likes a particular range of damp in which to live, to wet (in the ground) or to dry (in the air) it doesn't live and the timber doesn't rot. -- Cheers Dave. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Thu, 4 Jun 2009 14:40:40 -0700 (PDT), moghouse wrote:
Frankly none of the above. Go to your nearest tool hire company and tell them what you want to do. They will have a post hole borer you can hire that will do the job with the least effort and greatest efficiency. I'm not sure I'd like to try holding a powered borer on my own. I think they are really a two person device. A lot will depend on the local soil conditions, few stones or rocks and just "earth" might not be to bad. Heavy clay or scattered rocks could be interesting when the bit jambs and the engine rotates, or tries to. Yes you must make the hole bigger than the post so that you can put some concrete in it to hold the post securely particularly if they are nine foot posts! Don't see 'em putting concrete around telephone or power poles... Snug hole with rammed soil/rubble around will hold a post, provided it's put in deep enough. A 9' total post needs a minimum of 2' better with 3' in the ground to be stable. If the ground is very light and soft you may need more depth. "Postcrete" or similar poured in dry around the post in a snug hole and settled in by waggling the post and a some tamping is less effort than ramming earth. The damp in the soil will set the 'crete and the post will be held before it's set anyway. -- Cheers Dave. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 18:29:32 +0100, mo wrote:
guy suggested 1 bag of mix per post - but i don't have the bags yet and i have no idea how much concrete there will be when its mixed! The same as a bag, the "guy" is suggesting the use of a "ready mix" like Postcrete not mixing up cemet, sand and agrregate... As I have just said dig a snuggish hole, not much more than 1" all round clearance, pop in the post and back fill with the dry mix waggling the post and tamping down the mix as you go. Having a bit of initial "give" in the post fixing may well be useful to take up "manufacturing tolerances" in the panels. -- Cheers Dave. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 4, 11:16*pm, "mo" wrote:
Hi I need to install 7 fence posts, I want to do them AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! They are 9 foot posts As I understand it I should aim to do a narrow hole as possible. But I have also read I should stick some hardcore down there to help hold it in place - doesn't this mean I should dig the holes a bit wider than the post itself? or they just mean smaller rubble? You don't say why they are 9' posts. I mean, presumably you want them to end up been X' above ground. As has been suggested, your posts will need to be 2' deep... at the very least. (90cm pref) so I hope that fits in with your end height plans. Anyhow, which tool will do it for me the quickest? http://www.hss.com/g/62720/Post-Hole-Borer-Manual.html I'm familiar with this one; Not so hard to use; more user friendly when it comes to that kick they give when suddenly jammed on something, eg a root. It'll soften the ground to make it easy to dig out. Alas, depth is only around 75 cm if memory serves. If your using round pointy posts and the ground is soft, you could try using that bore, plonk the stake in and try to hammer down to the right depth, but easier said than done. Looks a bit small.....? http://www.hss.com/g/50631/Shovel-Holer.html I never used one, so I'm wondering if they"re really only good for emptying out the already softened earth? Any good? I also saw a digging shovel available elsewhe http://www.triadsupply.com/products/...392_shovel.jpg I just call that a shovel. that said, I like mine to look like they wont snap within the first half hour (-; perhaps a long handled spade would be more appropriate; If you go for the digging out the hole option, do so, so that you end up with a hole that is wider at the bottom; Think of an elephant's foot. This gives the post a foot. As for the rubble, that's really for something else. Use bits of rubble to stabilize the post... if there's no one else around to hold it for you whilst you go off checking on other measurements. Thanks! |
Digging a fence panel post hole
these are concrete posts by the way. they are 9 foot as i have 6 foot posts
and a gravel board - so i might end up putting just over 2 foot underground the electric post borer is looking more attractive if it will save me a LOT more time. i am guessing tho it will just me me a nice snug hole straight down - will the hole be wide enough or will i need to put a couple of heales near each other to make it wide enough? |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 6, 4:17*pm, "mo" wrote:
these are concrete posts by the way. they are 9 foot as i have 6 foot posts and a gravel board - so i might end up putting just over 2 foot underground the electric post borer is looking more attractive if it will save me a LOT more time. The one up there is not electrical. It's 2stroke engine. And as stated, suitable for soft ground. i am guessing tho it will just me me a nice snug hole straight down - Not to fast straight down I hope; When they shoot down like that they can be a devil of a job to get back out again. will the hole be wide enough No, not a chance. or will i need to put a couple of heales near each I'm unfamiliar with "heales" other to make it wide enough? |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 6, 7:50*pm, aquachimp
wrote: On Jun 6, 4:17*pm, "mo" wrote: these are concrete posts by the way. they are 9 foot as i have 6 foot posts and a gravel board - so i might end up putting just over 2 foot underground the electric post borer is looking more attractive if it will save me a LOT more time. The one up there is not electrical. It's 2stroke engine. And as stated, suitable for soft ground. i am guessing tho it will just me me a nice snug hole straight down - Not to fast straight down I hope; When they shoot down like that they can be a devil of a job to get back out again. will the hole be wide enough No, not a chance. I forgot to add, what you'll need is ballast, least, I think that's what it's called in the UK (sand&stones mix, probably 25kg bags; at least, & @ a bag per post, with cement at say; 5 to 1 ballast-cement and not too wet.) Also, something like a pickaxe handle (wider at the base) to pack in the mix around the posts. I don't think postcrete has enough grittiness for use with concrete posts. That extra stoniness adds to the working stability. If you're doing this all on your lonesome and can spread the work over time, I suggest you put in just one post on day one. Next day, or there after, it should be well set to help you out a bit. But if fencing to an existing set structure you wont need to wait. Using the gravel board in position, locate the position of the next post and dig it out. No need for measuring tape. Put in the next post, and check it's plume against the gravel board side, the first post/ existing structure being already set, you can fiddle about pressing the new post into the GB. You can even position the fence panels (I'm assuming...) but you'll need to give them independent support front and back so as their potential leaning weight do not sway the post to lean out of alignment. In fact, if you're doing this alone it's worth doing so because lifting panels to slide into position between the (grooved?) concrete posts is very difficult on ones own. Then continue with the others. or will i need to put a couple of heales near each I'm unfamiliar with "heales" other to make it wide enough? |
Digging a fence panel post hole
Posts delivered today, they are massive.
I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
Oh - come on - to dig an old post out and put a new one I only allow
an hour per post, in all of my fencing jobs, and thats only with a ditching shovel and maybe a concrete breaker. But the time you have messed around on the forums ( 4 days ) you could have taken out and put in 28 posts. Posts delivered today, they are massive. I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me. |
Digging a fence panel post hole
On Jun 8, 9:08*pm, "mo" wrote:
Posts delivered today, they are massive. I think I will go for some sort of electric or motor powered digger because manually digging the holes plus geeting the posts in will near on kill me.. Yep, 9' concrete posts are heavy. BTW, You'll need a string line long enough for a double line. 1 just above the ground, the other around eye level, or just above (not below) This help to speed up the checking on the leaning, in or out. A spirit level A crow-bar can be very useful A measuring tape, to mark off depth on the posts level to the top of the gravel board, unless the posts come with very handy marking A wheel barrow can be handy too for either mixing the mix, or just carting away the excess soil. |
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