The website I looked at suggested that they olives are hardy at least down
to -12C,
It is a year or two old from the pictures on the site (2 ft tall).
I am in Tyneside a couple of miles from the sea and it gets below freezing,
but only to -10C in a very extreme year.
Do I plant it in the ground or keep it in a tub?
Other helpful tips would be appreciated.
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk

In article ,
says...

The website I looked at suggested that they olives are hardy at least down
to -12C,
It is a year or two old from the pictures on the site (2 ft tall).
I am in Tyneside a couple of miles from the sea and it gets below freezing,
but only to -10C in a very extreme year.
Do I plant it in the ground or keep it in a tub?
Other helpful tips would be appreciated.

9 years ago I won a small one (1ft) in a raffle, and didn't expect it to
survive winters .No GH so thin king it was a hopeless case I parked the
pot out of sight in the garden and forgot it.A couple of years later I
found it again, alive and well and have potted it on twice; it's now in a
big ceramic pot. In the first few winters I towed it under the house eaves
for slight protection but it's too heavy now so don't bother. I live by
the sea and our coldest winter temps in that 9 yrs has been -6C. Last
winter we had about 3 weeks below freezing. The olive was fully exposed
but didn't even blink.

My olive is how about a metre high and across; would be twice that but
prune it quite hard; it grows about a foot every year. The trunk is
getting thick and gnarly, looks great. It flowered last years but no fruit
:-)

Janet West Scotland.

"Jim S" wrote in message
...
The website I looked at suggested that they olives are hardy at least down
to -12C,
It is a year or two old from the pictures on the site (2 ft tall).
I am in Tyneside a couple of miles from the sea and it gets below
freezing,
but only to -10C in a very extreme year.
Do I plant it in the ground or keep it in a tub?
Other helpful tips would be appreciated.


Tub should be fine - olives are quite hardy.
Probably quite a big tub so there is less chance of a quick freeze getting
to the roots.
Warmer here (coastal Suffolk) but our olive is out all year and seems fine.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

In article ,
David WE Roberts wrote:

Tub should be fine - olives are quite hardy.
Probably quite a big tub so there is less chance of a quick freeze getting
to the roots.
Warmer here (coastal Suffolk) but our olive is out all year and seems fine.

Like all of those plants, they hate waterlogging, which kills more
than frost. I don't know exactly how hardy they are, but my guess
is that you will need to stop the tub from freezing - in Cambridge,
that would mean moving it into a building, at least.

I lost my pomegranate last winter, but my feijoa survived without
trouble. Both were outside in pots, and had survived the pots
freezing before.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 22/12/2011 10:11, wrote:
In ,
David WE wrote:

Tub should be fine - olives are quite hardy.
Probably quite a big tub so there is less chance of a quick freeze getting
to the roots.
Warmer here (coastal Suffolk) but our olive is out all year and seems fine.

Like all of those plants, they hate waterlogging, which kills more
than frost. I don't know exactly how hardy they are, but my guess
is that you will need to stop the tub from freezing - in Cambridge,
that would mean moving it into a building, at least.

I lost my pomegranate last winter, but my feijoa survived without
trouble. Both were outside in pots, and had survived the pots
freezing before.


My Acca (Feijoa) survives quite happily in Sussex clay. It suffered a
bit last winter, but came through eventually, albeit with some damage.
It regularly flowers (sparsely this year), but has only set fruit once
or twice in a dozen years.

The smart money is on waterlogging causing trouble, but I am not sure it
is so clear-cut. I do wonder if a short period of waterlogging would
protect the plant from dehydration due to cold, desiccating winds far
more than if it were in a free-draining compost. And as water has a
higher latent heat than anything else, a pot full of water will freeze
more slowly than anything else (mind you, once frozen it will thaw more
slowly than anything else, too!). So damage due to root hairs freezing
is less likely in a very wet pot, but perhaps fungal damage is more
likely. Maybe someone has studied this and there is a definitive answer
for certain plants.

--

Jeff

On Dec 22, 4:20*pm, Sacha wrote:
On 2011-12-21 22:39:26 +0000, Jim S said:

The website I looked at suggested that they olives are hardy at least down
to -12C,
It is a year or two old from the pictures on the site (2 ft tall).
I am in Tyneside a couple of miles from the sea and it gets below freezing,
but only to -10C in a very extreme year.
Do I plant it in the ground or keep it in a tub?
Other helpful tips would be appreciated.

If you decide to keep it in a tub, make sure the tub has holes drilled
in it and that it is raised up off the ground. *If it's a very young
tree and you are worried about it, put some horticultural fleece around
it. *But it's in much more danger from waterlogging with trapped rain
or snow melt.
--
Sachawww.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon

I'd say if yoiu can give it ptrotection this first winter, you don't
know if it's been outside, or has been inside or even shiped up from
Italy in the last few weeks.
Won't need heat but just protection from heavy frosts, then put it out
full time in the spring.
If you can find out if it's been outside all autumn in the UK it would
be easier.

Where I live (Adelaide, Australia) they are declared a noxious weed.
They grow everywhere. Even alongside my railway track where
they produce olives. Collected by Italians.

Minge

"Jim S" wrote in message ...

The website I looked at suggested that they olives are hardy at least down
to -12C,
It is a year or two old from the pictures on the site (2 ft tall).
I am in Tyneside a couple of miles from the sea and it gets below freezing,
but only to -10C in a very extreme year.
Do I plant it in the ground or keep it in a tub?
Other helpful tips would be appreciated.
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
www.jimscott.co.uk

[QUOTEI have been given an olive tree[/quote]


It must have been one hell of a row if it needed a whole tree instead of just a branch. :-)))

Janet wrote:
My olive is how about a metre high and across; would be twice that but
prune it quite hard; it grows about a foot every year. The trunk is
getting thick and gnarly, looks great. It flowered last years but no fruit

When do you prune? I've got an olive in a pot that is about 2 or 3 years
old, it gets as far as tiny little fruit every year, but doesn't go any
further. It's getting a bit one-sided and thought I ought to prune it back,
but haven't got to finding out how and when to do it yet.

Advice from someone who's managed to not kill one always appreciated. ;-)

wrote in message
...
Janet wrote:
My olive is how about a metre high and across; would be twice that but
prune it quite hard; it grows about a foot every year. The trunk is
getting thick and gnarly, looks great. It flowered last years but no
fruit

When do you prune? I've got an olive in a pot that is about 2 or 3 years
old, it gets as far as tiny little fruit every year, but doesn't go any
further. It's getting a bit one-sided and thought I ought to prune it
back,
but haven't got to finding out how and when to do it yet.

Advice from someone who's managed to not kill one always appreciated. ;-)

I haven't really pruned ours much - it seems to be doing fine at the moment
but no doubt will need pruning eventually.
About 6-8' tall including pot.
The tiny little fruit may be as designed.
Our tree produces loads of small fruit - nothing like the commercial
olives - which overwinter then go black in the spring.
Then something eats them.

From
http://www.bigplantnursery.co.uk/GrowingGuideOlives.htm
"Olive trees can be easily pruned to maintain the size and habit required.
We recommend that light, formative pruning is undertaken in mid-spring with
heavier trimming in early to mid-summer. Never prune during the winter and
be cautious in the autumn: like many Mediterranean trees, olives need some
heat and recovery time to heal wounds before the dormant winter period."

This sounds sensible advice.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

David WE Roberts wrote:
Advice from someone who's managed to not kill one always appreciated. ;-)
I haven't really pruned ours much - it seems to be doing fine at the moment
but no doubt will need pruning eventually.
About 6-8' tall including pot.

How big's the pot, out of interest?

The tiny little fruit may be as designed.
Our tree produces loads of small fruit - nothing like the commercial
olives - which overwinter then go black in the spring.
Then something eats them.

Presumably not you. :-)

From
http://www.bigplantnursery.co.uk/GrowingGuideOlives.htm
"Olive trees can be easily pruned to maintain the size and habit required.
We recommend that light, formative pruning is undertaken in mid-spring with
heavier trimming in early to mid-summer. Never prune during the winter and
be cautious in the autumn: like many Mediterranean trees, olives need some
heat and recovery time to heal wounds before the dormant winter period."

This sounds sensible advice.

It does. Much appreciated, thank you.

wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:
Advice from someone who's managed to not kill one always appreciated.
;-)
I haven't really pruned ours much - it seems to be doing fine at the
moment
but no doubt will need pruning eventually.
About 6-8' tall including pot.

How big's the pot, out of interest?


Picture and dimensions tomorrow.
Dark now.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:
Advice from someone who's managed to not kill one always appreciated.
;-)
I haven't really pruned ours much - it seems to be doing fine at the
moment
but no doubt will need pruning eventually.
About 6-8' tall including pot.

How big's the pot, out of interest?

snip

16" high, 22" diameter.
Picture
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=DSC_0710.jpg
Not the best of pictures but you can see the green olives and the pot.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

David WE Roberts wrote:
How big's the pot, out of interest?

snip

16" high, 22" diameter.
Picture
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=DSC_0710.jpg
Not the best of pictures but you can see the green olives and the pot.

Useful. The pot looks about the same size as mine, but my tree wouldn't
reach the bottom of the window! :-)