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Garden Shed
Time has come to put a shed in our small garden for storage and
occasional whittling. 8x6 should do it nicely and this style looks just the job: http://www.tigersheds.com/product_de...d=7&option=428 Couple of questions: There seems to be quite a range in price and specification. Local garden centres (Derbyshire) are roughly double, for example, although these include assembly. On which: How difficult are these to assemble? All looks quite straightforward to me from the guides. Thanks, Rob |
Garden Shed
On Jan 26, 1:56*pm, Rob wrote:
Time has come to put a shed in our small garden for storage and occasional whittling. 8x6 should do it nicely and this style looks just the job: http://www.tigersheds.com/product_de...d=7&option=428 Couple of questions: There seems to be quite a range in price and specification. Local garden centres (Derbyshire) are roughly double, for example, although these include assembly. On which: How difficult are these to assemble? All looks quite straightforward to me from the guides. Thanks, Rob How handy are you? How long do you want it to last? Can you afford more? The reason I ask is that most commercially made sheds are of very light construction, not very secure and aren't made to last. I've just helped to move one from a neighbours house and at 7 years old the floor was starting to rot. Floors and roofs are often made of chipboard or osb board and they will not tolerate any wetness at all. (I replaced an old one I inherited when we moved here and the roof literally fell apart around my head when I was dismantling it to the extent that I just shovelled up the shreds into waste bags - there was nothing solid left at all) So - If you are reasonably competent with a handsaw, tape measure, spirit level and cordless screwdriver (use Spax screws instead of nails) and you can double your budget then make your own. That size shouldn't take more than about a week to build. You'll be using better heavier materials like heavier roofing felt, building paper or 'Tyvec' membrane lining. The roof and floor will be solid wood tongued and grooved boards, the main structural components will be 3"x2" tanalised timber and you should be able to get tanalised shiplap for the cladding. You need a good firm base of concrete flags or concrete, and sit the shed floor on 3x2 tanalised bearers to keep the base of the shed well away from any water. For the design, just go round the showgrounds with a tape and notebook but upgrade the timbers as I have described. Your local builders' merchants will sell all you need but take the same shopping list around at least a couple of merchants. You will get a much better shed that will be more secure, more weatherproof and last for very many years. Rod |
Garden Shed
On 26/01/2012 16:31, Rod wrote:
On Jan 26, 1:56 pm, wrote: Time has come to put a shed in our small garden for storage and occasional whittling. 8x6 should do it nicely and this style looks just the job: http://www.tigersheds.com/product_de...d=7&option=428 Couple of questions: There seems to be quite a range in price and specification. Local garden centres (Derbyshire) are roughly double, for example, although these include assembly. On which: How difficult are these to assemble? All looks quite straightforward to me from the guides. Thanks, Rob How handy are you? Fairly - bit slow nowadays but get there eventually. How long do you want it to last? 10 years I suppose, more would be a bonus. Can you afford more? Well, we'd budgeted £500, but money's a bit tight so any savings on the budget ill find a home. The reason I ask is that most commercially made sheds are of very light construction, not very secure and aren't made to last. I've just helped to move one from a neighbours house and at 7 years old the floor was starting to rot. Floors and roofs are often made of chipboard or osb board and they will not tolerate any wetness at all. (I replaced an old one I inherited when we moved here and the roof literally fell apart around my head when I was dismantling it to the extent that I just shovelled up the shreds into waste bags - there was nothing solid left at all) Yes - the floor is something I've looked at. The one linked to has 'thick tongue and grooved floorboard in the floor and roof sections and contains NO cheap sheet materials such as OSB or chipboard'. So - If you are reasonably competent with a handsaw, tape measure, spirit level and cordless screwdriver (use Spax screws instead of nails) and you can double your budget then make your own. That size shouldn't take more than about a week to build. Ah - don't really have that amount of time to commit. You'll be using better heavier materials like heavier roofing felt, building paper or 'Tyvec' membrane lining. The roof and floor will be solid wood tongued and grooved boards, the main structural components will be 3"x2" tanalised timber and you should be able to get tanalised shiplap for the cladding. You need a good firm base of concrete flags or concrete, and sit the shed floor on 3x2 tanalised bearers to keep the base of the shed well away from any water. Yes, good thinking. I'll spend some time on the foundation. But as I say,cost and time are factors right now. The immediate need is storage - bikes and tools and bits of wood and . . . it goes on! For the design, just go round the showgrounds with a tape and notebook but upgrade the timbers as I have described. Your local builders' merchants will sell all you need but take the same shopping list around at least a couple of merchants. You will get a much better shed that will be more secure, more weatherproof and last for very many years. Agreed, can't argue; parsomony, pragmatism, time and laziness I'm afraid. But food for thought. Thanks for the insight. Rob |
Garden Shed
"Rob" wrote in message b.com... On 26/01/2012 16:31, Rod wrote: On Jan 26, 1:56 pm, wrote: Time has come to put a shed in our small garden for storage and occasional whittling. 8x6 should do it nicely and this style looks just the job: http://www.tigersheds.com/product_de...d=7&option=428 Couple of questions: There seems to be quite a range in price and specification. Local garden centres (Derbyshire) are roughly double, for example, although these include assembly. On which: How difficult are these to assemble? All looks quite straightforward to me from the guides. Thanks, Rob How handy are you? Fairly - bit slow nowadays but get there eventually. How long do you want it to last? 10 years I suppose, more would be a bonus. Can you afford more? Well, we'd budgeted £500, but money's a bit tight so any savings on the budget ill find a home. The reason I ask is that most commercially made sheds are of very light construction, not very secure and aren't made to last. I've just helped to move one from a neighbours house and at 7 years old the floor was starting to rot. Floors and roofs are often made of chipboard or osb board and they will not tolerate any wetness at all. (I replaced an old one I inherited when we moved here and the roof literally fell apart around my head when I was dismantling it to the extent that I just shovelled up the shreds into waste bags - there was nothing solid left at all) Yes - the floor is something I've looked at. The one linked to has 'thick tongue and grooved floorboard in the floor and roof sections and contains NO cheap sheet materials such as OSB or chipboard'. So - If you are reasonably competent with a handsaw, tape measure, spirit level and cordless screwdriver (use Spax screws instead of nails) and you can double your budget then make your own. That size shouldn't take more than about a week to build. Ah - don't really have that amount of time to commit. You'll be using better heavier materials like heavier roofing felt, building paper or 'Tyvec' membrane lining. The roof and floor will be solid wood tongued and grooved boards, the main structural components will be 3"x2" tanalised timber and you should be able to get tanalised shiplap for the cladding. You need a good firm base of concrete flags or concrete, and sit the shed floor on 3x2 tanalised bearers to keep the base of the shed well away from any water. Yes, good thinking. I'll spend some time on the foundation. But as I say,cost and time are factors right now. The immediate need is storage - bikes and tools and bits of wood and . . . it goes on! For the design, just go round the showgrounds with a tape and notebook but upgrade the timbers as I have described. Your local builders' merchants will sell all you need but take the same shopping list around at least a couple of merchants. You will get a much better shed that will be more secure, more weatherproof and last for very many years. Agreed, can't argue; parsomony, pragmatism, time and laziness I'm afraid. But food for thought. Thanks for the insight. Rob In addition to the above, you can improve your shed by covering the supplied floor with half inch thick chipboard,also replace any screws on access points such as door and window, with nuts and bolts. The screw head should be on the outside and "spoiled" when installed. The door should be more secure as the bolts would be much harder to remove than srews - something for a villain to think about. Bill |
Garden Shed
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 17:43:56 -0000, Bill Grey wrote:
How difficult are these to assemble? All looks quite straightforward to me from the guides. If there are two of you not very difficult at all. I've deconstructed, reclad and rebuilt ours on my own but it is in a corner by walls so those two sides can lean against the wall whilst you pick up the adjacent side. There is nothing stopping you buying a commercial shed and upgrading the weak points. Before assembly give the inside and out an good soaking in wood preservative(*) after assembly paint with a presevative/protective shed/fence paint of some sort. Have a look at the roofing felts in a DIY shed and if the stuff supplied isn't as good don't use it and buy some better stuff. Maybe put a few extra fixings in. Small things with little cost but will improve the longevity of the shed. The foundations are probably the most important. Don't put the joists of the shed directly on the ground/slabs/concrete but lift them up on 3" square tannalised timbers (fence posts). These should be supported at least at the quarters with bricks or WHY firmly bedded into the soil and leveled. Personally a complete hardstanding underneath isn't required, but keep the gaps between this posts clear and the ends open to allow air to pass through. Security, well making the locks/bolts hard to defeat will just make a thief take the next easier route and with a shiplap or thin T&G clad shed that will be pulling the cladding off... -- Cheers Dave. |
Garden Shed
A few years ago, budget forced me to by a second hand shed. I stapled heavy
duty polythene to the underside of the floor and set the shed on lightweight building blocks. Pete C |
Quote:
Most DIY sheds are pretty easy to assemble, It's the base you need to be careful about, best to get some ex-council flags (they are getting rid of these on pavements and replacing them with tarmac) and make a "square" about a foot wider than the shed. You must make sure the base is level, though I'd have a "fall" of about an inch across them so there's no chance of standing water. They rot from the ground up. You can't tell the quality of the wood from a webpage. Unless you really look after them they soon deteriorate. The roofing felt supplied is usually rubbish, best to cover it after a year or so, with a non-tear heavy duty variety, you won't find it in the DIY sheds. Why not build your own? I built mine from 3"X2" and roofing ply, plus three recycled windows. It sits on brick piers six inches above the ground, to let air get under it. So no rot. This is it last summer, it's now 35 years old. http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/8215/p1020413pb.jpg Then I got more adventurous and built this, photographed last year, it's only 26 years old. This again is six inches off the ground, the "skirts" are just ornamentation. http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/2610/p1030157f.jpg http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5527/p1030158mh.jpg |
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