I bought a gallon of B&Q "Path and Patio" weedkiller, which is sprayed onto
each weed. I assumed that what I was buying would be the same substance as
Pathclear, except with the B&Q brand name, at a slightly lower price. I've
never used Pathclear so I cannot compare the two products. However, I was
dismayed at how almost totally ineffective the B&Q stuff was. I copiously
sprayed a lot of weeds on a dry day. A week later, all the weeds are still
alive!

Is Pathclear any better?

TIA

Al

In article ,
says...

I bought a gallon of B&Q "Path and Patio" weedkiller, which is sprayed onto
each weed. I assumed that what I was buying would be the same substance as
Pathclear, except with the B&Q brand name, at a slightly lower price. I've
never used Pathclear so I cannot compare the two products. However, I was
dismayed at how almost totally ineffective the B&Q stuff was. I copiously
sprayed a lot of weeds on a dry day. A week later, all the weeds are still
alive!

In midwinter. Is there a recommended outdoor temperature for it to be
effective?

Janet

On Tue, 31 Jan 2012 11:22:30 -0000, Janet wrote:

In article ,
says...

I bought a gallon of B&Q "Path and Patio" weedkiller, which is sprayed onto
each weed. I assumed that what I was buying would be the same substance as
Pathclear, except with the B&Q brand name, at a slightly lower price. I've
never used Pathclear so I cannot compare the two products. However, I was
dismayed at how almost totally ineffective the B&Q stuff was. I copiously
sprayed a lot of weeds on a dry day. A week later, all the weeds are still
alive!

In midwinter. Is there a recommended outdoor temperature for it to be
effective?

Janet

I have no experience of the B&Q product, but some general principles
....

AFAIK, most weedkillers are not effective below 10-12C. Plus the
foliar (systemic) types need the weed to be actively growing - it can
be green but not that active at this time of year and so it won't suck
the weedkiller in through the leaves as well as when it's less sleepy.

I think the residual types like Pathclear work on existing growth in
the same way as glyphosate based ones but with the added barrier
effect to stop new weeds growing for a while (or more appropriately
slow that growth down a bit!). So I'd guess that the same minimum
temperature/active growth requirements would apply to what's already
there.

I don't think of using any weedkiller until at least mid March and I
don't use any residual type at all.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay where
the four seasons are salt,pepper,mustard and vinegar.

Jake Nospam@invalid wrote in news:rqnfi7hmvf7pkt4tdss7umkqr9rlj8iknn@
4ax.com:


I don't think of using any weedkiller until at least mid March and I
don't use any residual type at all.


Thanks for your helpful feedback. I will follow your advice and try again
in March. The B&Q stuff claims to leave no residue in the soil.

Al

On 31 Jan 2012 12:58:28 GMT, "AL_n" wrote:

Jake Nospam@invalid wrote in news:rqnfi7hmvf7pkt4tdss7umkqr9rlj8iknn@
4ax.com:


I don't think of using any weedkiller until at least mid March and I
don't use any residual type at all.


Thanks for your helpful feedback. I will follow your advice and try again
in March. The B&Q stuff claims to leave no residue in the soil.

Al

I've checked the B&Q web site and what it calls its Path and Patio
product is totally different to Pathclear (which isn't glyophosate
based). The B&Q one is simply ready-diluted glyphosate so will only
kill what's already growing. Pathclear, on the other hand, is supposed
to (I say supposed to because anyone I've ever spoken to says it
doesn't really) leave a barrier to stop anything sprouting later from
seed.

FWIW you will usually save money by buying Glyphosate concentrate
(Bayer have both liquid and granular versions for example) rather than
ready-diluted versions. It's the same principle as the price of car
screen wash concentrate compared to a gallon of ready mixed stuff.

Remember that glyphosate works by getting right through the plant down
to the roots and killing those as well. This won't happen overnight so
you need to allow time for the weeds to die. You can speed things up a
bit by spraying in the morning of what will be a sunny, dry day. And
don't be too hasty removing wilting growth - the weedkiller will still
be working its way down and you don't want to cut it off before it
gets there.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay where
the four seasons are salt,pepper,mustard and vinegar.

Jake Nospam@invalid wrote in
:

On 31 Jan 2012 12:58:28 GMT, "AL_n" wrote:

Jake Nospam@invalid wrote in
news:rqnfi7hmvf7pkt4tdss7umkqr9rlj8iknn@ 4ax.com:


I don't think of using any weedkiller until at least mid March and I
don't use any residual type at all.


Thanks for your helpful feedback. I will follow your advice and try
again in March. The B&Q stuff claims to leave no residue in the soil.

Al

I've checked the B&Q web site and what it calls its Path and Patio
product is totally different to Pathclear (which isn't glyophosate
based). The B&Q one is simply ready-diluted glyphosate so will only
kill what's already growing. Pathclear, on the other hand, is supposed
to (I say supposed to because anyone I've ever spoken to says it
doesn't really) leave a barrier to stop anything sprouting later from
seed.

FWIW you will usually save money by buying Glyphosate concentrate
(Bayer have both liquid and granular versions for example) rather than
ready-diluted versions. It's the same principle as the price of car
screen wash concentrate compared to a gallon of ready mixed stuff.

Remember that glyphosate works by getting right through the plant down
to the roots and killing those as well. This won't happen overnight so
you need to allow time for the weeds to die. You can speed things up a
bit by spraying in the morning of what will be a sunny, dry day. And
don't be too hasty removing wilting growth - the weedkiller will still
be working its way down and you don't want to cut it off before it
gets there.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay where
the four seasons are salt,pepper,mustard and vinegar.


Can I put a pennys worth here.
At this time of year most weeds will have seeds on them if they have not
already blown off(to grow elsewhere), so it is important to remove them
if you can before treating them.
As far as I am aware weedkillers only kill the weed, not the seed.
So when the weeds regrow from their seed it is only too easy to hoe the
young things where and when they show their ugly mugs, and keep on doing
it.
Of course if you have a really big garden it can be a big problem.

What I am getting at is don't let them seed again, or at least prevent
them. See young weeds, hoe them out.

Baz

On Jan 31, 2:34*pm, Baz wrote:
Jake Nospam@invalid wrote :





On 31 Jan 2012 12:58:28 GMT, "AL_n" wrote:

Jake Nospam@invalid wrote in
news:rqnfi7hmvf7pkt4tdss7umkqr9rlj8iknn@ 4ax.com:

I don't think of using any weedkiller until at least mid March and I
don't use any residual type at all.

Thanks for your helpful feedback. I will follow your advice and try
again in March. The B&Q stuff claims to leave no residue in the soil.

Al

I've checked the B&Q web site and what it calls its Path and Patio
product is totally different to Pathclear (which isn't glyophosate
based). The B&Q one is simply ready-diluted glyphosate so will only
kill what's already growing. Pathclear, on the other hand, is supposed
to (I say supposed to because anyone I've ever spoken to says it
doesn't really) leave a barrier to stop anything sprouting later from
seed.

FWIW you will usually save money by buying Glyphosate concentrate
(Bayer have both liquid and granular versions for example) rather than
ready-diluted versions. It's the same principle as the price of car
screen wash concentrate compared to a gallon of ready mixed stuff.

Remember that glyphosate works by getting right through the plant down
to the roots and killing those as well. This won't happen overnight so
you need to allow time for the weeds to die. You can speed things up a
bit by spraying in the morning of what will be a sunny, dry day. And
don't be too hasty removing wilting growth - the weedkiller will still
be working its way down and you don't want to cut it off before it
gets there.

Cheers, Jake
=======================================
Urgling happily from the dryer end of Swansea Bay where
the four seasons are salt,pepper,mustard and vinegar.

Can I put a pennys worth here.
At this time of year most weeds will have seeds on them if they have not
already blown off(to grow elsewhere), so it is important to remove them
if you can before treating them.
As far as I am aware weedkillers only kill the weed, not the seed.
So when the weeds regrow from their seed it is only too easy to hoe the
young things where and when they show their ugly mugs, and keep on doing
it.
Of course if you have a really big garden it can be a big problem.

What I am getting at is don't let them seed again, or at least prevent
them. See young weeds, hoe them out.

Baz- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What you must remember, they work on GROWING plants, not plants that
have grown and are now dormant.
In good growing conditions it can be a couple of weeks before you see
any efects from spraying, at ths time of year it could be 4 or 5 weeks.

I usually keep my paths, drive and patios clear of moss and weeds with my "industrial strength" Karcher. I find using it rather therapeutic. Usually twice a year.

However, an elderly neighbour now sadly departed, managed to achieve the same effect on his, with a weak solution of cheap bleach, applied fortnightly with a bog-standard 5ltr garden pressure sprayer.