On Feb 22, 10:21*pm, "MuddyMike" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message

...





In article , writes
I take your point about the length of time involved - I had to
guess at how wide and packed those piles were and may have guessed
wrong. *But I can assure you that it is NOT as much faster to use
a chainsaw than it appears, if you are inexperienced or weakish
(as I am), because you dare not get even slightly tired when using
a chainsaw.

Oh right, well thank you for your answers i take your points very
seriously. Wouldn't use anything if i didn't think i was competent which
is one reason why i don't like the long armed hedge cutters. They are
balanced for people much taller than 5' 4"

A friend has something called an alligator which might be useful if they
can find it in their garage ! It's kind of like two sets of teeth that you
clamp round and cut medium thick stuff
--

I have just recently replaced a rather old B&Q electric chainsaw with an
Aldi cheapy. It came with 3 years warranty so if it only lasts that long its
well worth the money. It says Oregon on the bar, but otherwise is of unknown
brand yet is far more advanced than my old one. It has "no tools required"
chain adjustment, a kick back safety brake, and the chain stops almost
immediately when I let go of the trigger despite the motor still turning. I
used it for the first time last weekend to cut up a telegraph pole and a
dead 6ft tall 12" dia yew trunk. It cut both with absolute ease.

Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My neighbour who is in his early 80's burns nothing but wood and has
for several years used an old Black and Decker chain saw which has now
given up the ghost, He has had 2 of the Liddle/aldi chain saws for
cutting up the trunks but always used the B & D for branches and
thiner stuff ar it could be used one handed, after around 4 months he
is still trying to find a replacement,

On Feb 22, 7:33*pm, Another John wrote:
In article ,
*Farmer Giles wrote:

...I would add one important point on safety, if I may, and
that is to check the chain tension regularly and adjust if loose. A
badly tensioned chain is a definite safety hazard.

Very good point! *This is very easily checked, and corrected, on mine: I
check it constantly whilst sawing, and occasionally have to correct it.

John

The Bosch electricsaw has a chain tension adjuster that needs no
tools, Takes seconds.

Don't forget to buy chain oil. (And keep the saw topped up)

On 02/22/2012 11:21 PM, MuddyMike wrote:
[]
I have just recently replaced a rather old B&Q electric chainsaw with an
Aldi cheapy. It came with 3 years warranty so if it only lasts that long its
well worth the money. It says Oregon on the bar, but otherwise is of unknown
brand yet is far more advanced than my old one. It has "no tools required"
chain adjustment, a kick back safety brake, and the chain stops almost
immediately when I let go of the trigger despite the motor still turning. I
used it for the first time last weekend to cut up a telegraph pole and a
dead 6ft tall 12" dia yew trunk. It cut both with absolute ease.

Oregon makes good chains. I have one for the Stihl.

On 02/22/2012 10:08 PM, Janet Tweedy wrote:
In article
,
Another John writes
I agree, if you're pruning trees Emery. However as she has said, Janet
is faced with a large piles of logs to saw up into foot-lengths.


Actually they are less like logs and more like thickish branches with
the twigs still on in places!!

Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain
touches earth it will get dull, right quickly.

De-twigging this sort of wood is time consuming, too.

I find the chainsawing hard work whether high or low; but I've never had
an electric one as my cutting is rarely near mains. I guess the weight
difference would be considerable. In my case (sight unseen mind) I'd be
happier getting most of it out with the bowsaw.

-E

"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...

Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain
touches earth it will get dull, right quickly.

Any chainsaw hitting earth, stones or other very hard object will dull very
quickly.

De-twigging this sort of wood is time consuming, too.

I find the chainsawing hard work whether high or low; but I've never had
an electric one as my cutting is rarely near mains. I guess the weight
difference would be considerable. In my case (sight unseen mind) I'd be
happier getting most of it out with the bowsaw.

Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of kick-back.

As for weight difference, there is hardly any difference in weight between a
16" petrol Chaisaw and an electric one. The lack of wieight of the engine
in an electric one is made up by the weight of the electric motor.

The main cons are

The need to obtain and store petrol in the case of a petrol saw

The need to be fairly close to an electrical supply for an electric saw.

Bill

Bill

Janet Tweedy wrote in news:yKKqeJGLbSRPFwI4
@lancedal.demon.co.uk:

In article
, Dave
Hill writes
I've always gone for Sandvik
they are in a class of their own, it's like a knife through butter,
but it looks as if they now sell as Bahco.


Oh yes mine is also Sandvik, good quality as you say. Still takes
forever to cut through an old wooden cot someone gave me to use on the
fire!!

Janet, as a carpenter and joiner I can say yes Sandvik saws are among the
best, along with Spear & Jackson and Disston(American not Canadian), but
they all come in differing quality and therefore price. They all did a full
range from handyman to pro. £ to ££ to £££ etc.
The snag is that like all saws(hand, electric or petrol/diesal) they go
blunt and need sharpening and it sounds to me that your Sandvik needs
sharpening.
The only exception IMO are the hardpoint(disposable). They cannot be
sharpened without losing their tempered cutting edge, rendering them
useless afterwards. But they are the choice of todays Joiners who earn £20
per hour and can not afford to set and sharpen a saw because it takes too
long when a Bacho disposable costs £7 trade, and stays sharp for a very
long time as opposed to "non-hardpoint" which would dull after an hour or
two of intensive sawing.

Hope this helps

Baz

On 02/23/2012 12:25 PM, Bill Grey wrote:
"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...

Bear in mind if you go with the electric saw, every time the chain
touches earth it will get dull, right quickly.

Any chainsaw hitting earth, stones or other very hard object will dull very
quickly.

Well yes, of course I wasn't suggesting it was any different for a
petrol saw!

[]

Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of kick-back.

Tell it to a tree surgeon! But you're right in principal of course.

As for weight difference, there is hardly any difference in weight between a
16" petrol Chaisaw and an electric one. The lack of wieight of the engine
in an electric one is made up by the weight of the electric motor.

As I said I never use an electric chainsaw. But I do have an electric
hedge cutter, and it's much lighter than the equivalent-sized petrol one
I sometimes borrow.

The main cons are

The need to obtain and store petrol in the case of a petrol saw

The need to be fairly close to an electrical supply for an electric saw.


I find with the hedge cutter I worry about keeping the cable out of the
way, also.

On Feb 22, 8:38*pm, "Bill Grey" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message

...









In article , Bill Grey
writes
There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I
do
not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your
personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however
small.
I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use
of
chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and
surprisingly easy to incur.

As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day
course to learn how to use one simply.

However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved
learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools
as well!!

They also cost umpteen amounts of money ..........

Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc.

--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really
necessary for us gardeners.

A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine.

Bill

The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course.
First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and
cutting them up.

Jonathan

On Feb 23, 5:34*pm, Jonathan wrote:
On Feb 22, 8:38*pm, "Bill Grey" wrote:





"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message

...

In article , Bill Grey
writes
There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use.. I
do
not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your
personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however
small.
I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use
of
chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and
surprisingly easy to incur.

As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day
course to learn how to use one simply.

However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and involved
learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power tools
as well!!

They also cost umpteen amounts of money ..........

Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc.

--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really
necessary for us gardeners.

A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine.

Bill

The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course.
First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and
cutting them up.

Jonathan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


One advantage of an electric chain saw is that when you take your
finger of the trigget the motor stops, and when you want to make the
next cut you just pick it up and press the trigger again, no having to
either leave the thing running or having to start it again.

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

Can anyone recommend a small chainsaw for light work. Not to cut tree
trunks but heavier branches that are pruned and so on so i can use them
for the fire/ Sawing manually on a saw horse is definitely tiring if not
exhausting!!
--

If you live on your own, think carefully about using a chainsaw. If it
slips there is no-one there to save you.
I have a woodburner and have wood to saw but since I was widowed I daren't
risk it.
Some of the heavier duty electric saws (not chainsaws) can cope with
branches and are much safer, although it depends on the diameter of them,
obviously.
If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there.
I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring.
I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it.
Tina

"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...
On 02/23/2012 12:25 PM, Bill Grey wrote:
"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...
Chainsaws should NOT/ be used above shoulder height in case of
kick-back.

Tell it to a tree surgeon! But you're right in principal of course.

Complacency rules maybe!

Bill

"Malcolm" wrote in message
news

In article , writes
In article ,
Janet Tweedy wrote:

You have probably heard this before but, if you find manual sawing
difficult, you do not have the strength to use a chainsaw safely.

Oh I can saw well enough but currently i have three 4ft high piles of
very large logs in the garden from an oak, a mulberry an apple and a
silver Birch and the thought of sawing by hand, umpteen logs is a bit
daunting timewise, I need to cut them to about 12 inches long.

It looks soooo much easier slicing through them with an saw. Too thick
for my stihl hedgecutter though.

Eh? From the point of view of a bowsaw, "very large" is above 12"
in diameter (or 9" for smaller saws). And no plausible hedgecutter
will even approach that! Once something gets above that, it's worth
paying someone to do it, even if you have a chainsaw, as it needs
more than ordinary skills.

If most of those branches are 6-9", I would guess 3 days of 4 hours
each (with breaks to do other things) for a decent bowsaw, but
probably still 3 days and over half the time for an inexperienced
chainsaw user. Remember that, if you get even slightly tired, a
chainsaw changes from dangerous to lethal.

I'm still trying to work out if you have a chainsaw, Nick, or have used
one of the smaller (c.30cm) modern electric ones, and therefore have the
experience to back up the advice against them that you are giving. I have
an electric chainsaw (plus reinforced gloves and helmet with earmuffs and
vizor, of course) and I also have a good bow-saw, and I use whichever one
is appropriate for the job in hand. I think it perfectly reasonable for
someone who is finding that a bow-saw is not coping to use a chainsaw. The
advice given here on getting a smaller electric one and on maintenance has
been good and to the point and from obvious experience of them. And as far
as muscle use is concerned, different ones are definitely involved, though
obvously with some overlap.

--
Malcolm

Having recently felled a fairly tall Birch of diameter about 8 to 10 ins, I
cut into logs with my chainsaw (electric).. No way would I have considered
my bowsaw for such a task.

Bill

"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
On Feb 22, 8:38 pm, "Bill Grey" wrote:
"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message

...









In article , Bill Grey
writes
There are serious safety concerns to be considered with chain saw use. I
do
not wish to be patronising, but I strongly recommend you consider your
personal ability to use a chainsaw safely before getting one, however
small.
I was involved in giving safety filmshows to forestry workers in the use
of
chainsaws, and some of the injuries shown were both frightening and
surprisingly easy to incur.

As i posted a couple of months ago, i was quite prepared to go on a day
course to learn how to use one simply.

However the courses I found on the Internet were for aborists and
involved
learning to climb trees, where to prune, maintenance of heavy power
tools
as well!!

They also cost umpteen amounts of money ..........

Nothing for using a small one to chop up pruned branches etc.

--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

I can see there would be a problem with a full 9 yards course, not really
necessary for us gardeners.

A basic "how to use" and safety course would be fine.

Bill

The agricultural training board used to do a very good two day course.
First day on maintenance and safety, second day ctting down trees and
cutting them up.

Jonathan

That's Health and Safety at work - think insurance claims and it all makes
sense.

We are not talking agricultural tree felling in this thread.

Bill

"Christina Websell" wrote in message
...

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there.
I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring.
I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it.
Tina

Sound advice! Take heed.

Bill

http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/2006...igator-po.html




"Bill Grey" wrote in message
...

"Christina Websell" wrote in message
...

"Janet Tweedy" wrote in message
...

If you want to use a chainsaw, make sure someone else is there.
I can use a bowsaw but, as you say, it's tiring.
I'm thinking of paying someone to come and do it.
Tina

Sound advice! Take heed.

Bill