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Old 17-04-2015, 07:43 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?

I have a Japanese Maple which has been healthy throughout last year. But
this spring it became noticeable that a number of new top stems have died
back. I've now cut these back to main branches. I've no idea what killed
them and we haven't had that cold a winter to cause that amount of dieback.
New growth has already started lower down the main stem, and at the moment
that looks healthy and vigorous. But I'm wondering whether the symptoms
could be early signs of verticillium wilt although there's no sign of the
new growth wilting so far?

I don't know much about Japanese Maples but recently learned that vw is the
main threat to growing them successfully.



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Old 17-04-2015, 08:44 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?

On 17/04/15 19:43, FrankB wrote:
I have a Japanese Maple which has been healthy throughout last year. But
this spring it became noticeable that a number of new top stems have died
back. I've now cut these back to main branches. I've no idea what killed
them and we haven't had that cold a winter to cause that amount of dieback.
New growth has already started lower down the main stem, and at the moment
that looks healthy and vigorous. But I'm wondering whether the symptoms
could be early signs of verticillium wilt although there's no sign of the
new growth wilting so far?

I don't know much about Japanese Maples but recently learned that vw is the
main threat to growing them successfully.


A few years ago I had an Acer palmatum 'Shindeshojo' which started to
die back on one of its main branches. I cut the branch back as far as I
could to where it joined another branch - not to just below the dieback.
It looked unsightly for several years, but now you'd hardly notice, and
it is spectacular.

This year the half-dozen A.P. varieties I grow were all ok, except for
dissectum "Crimson Princess". That seems dead to about 10cm above the
graft (it was about 120 cm high, and only planted about a year ago).
I've cut it back to about 5 cm above the graft, but doubt it will
survive. I have no idea why it has died back, but won't put another A.P.
anywhere near that position.

--

Jeff
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Old 17-04-2015, 10:51 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 20:44:39 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:

On 17/04/15 19:43, FrankB wrote:
I have a Japanese Maple which has been healthy throughout last year. But
this spring it became noticeable that a number of new top stems have died
back. I've now cut these back to main branches. I've no idea what killed
them and we haven't had that cold a winter to cause that amount of dieback.
New growth has already started lower down the main stem, and at the moment
that looks healthy and vigorous. But I'm wondering whether the symptoms
could be early signs of verticillium wilt although there's no sign of the
new growth wilting so far?

I don't know much about Japanese Maples but recently learned that vw is the
main threat to growing them successfully.


A few years ago I had an Acer palmatum 'Shindeshojo' which started to
die back on one of its main branches. I cut the branch back as far as I
could to where it joined another branch - not to just below the dieback.
It looked unsightly for several years, but now you'd hardly notice, and
it is spectacular.

This year the half-dozen A.P. varieties I grow were all ok, except for
dissectum "Crimson Princess". That seems dead to about 10cm above the
graft (it was about 120 cm high, and only planted about a year ago).
I've cut it back to about 5 cm above the graft, but doubt it will
survive. I have no idea why it has died back, but won't put another A.P.
anywhere near that position.


I've had this happen with maples. I've learned not to cut them back
too early. I have a small one with some very dead twigs butin the past
I've found that they shoot out again from the first bud on live wood

A friend and I looked at some acers priced £10 at Tesco last week. I
said I had no intention of buying any more acers. The next day I went
to Tesco to do food shopping and saw a very good looking one, named
Shindeshojo as Jeff's is. I thought it a bargain at £10 so now I am
waiting to see how it does. I have had a Shindeshojo before but lost
it!
Time will tell but I don't know the die-back solution.
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Old 19-04-2015, 01:02 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:43:37 +0100, FrankB wrote:

I have a Japanese Maple which has been healthy throughout last year. But
this spring it became noticeable that a number of new top stems have
died back. I've now cut these back to main branches. I've no idea what
killed them and we haven't had that cold a winter to cause that amount
of dieback.
New growth has already started lower down the main stem, and at the
moment that looks healthy and vigorous. But I'm wondering whether the
symptoms could be early signs of verticillium wilt although there's no
sign of the new growth wilting so far?

I don't know much about Japanese Maples but recently learned that vw is
the main threat to growing them successfully.


Verticillium wilt usually happens in spring or summer depending on form:
the sudden spring wilt and death characterised by a loss of turgidity in
new growth is caused by albo-atrum IIRC, the more common long term
verticillium -- that we sometimes call the cancer of maples -- dahliae
occurs more during summer, and can be controlled by cutting back, at
least for a while. I have certainly tens of maples that suffer from this
form but survive or even thrive to some extent.

In all likelyhood what you're seeing is pseudomonas infections which is
the most common cause of winter tip dieback in maples. The bacteria
enters the soft tissue when temperatures are near freezing and causes
blackening and stem death. Sometimes lesions appear further down the
stem, often they are round but always with the characteristic blackening.

In contrast to verticillium, pseudomonas can be controlled by copper,
e.g. bordeaux mix or some other pulverized on the stems. The treatment
should be repeated every 7-14 days until all of the blackening is gone;
but of course cutting the blackened parts off is the right thing to do
once the threat of frost is over, and the copper becomes mostly
prophylactic.

Risk of pseudomonas is a main reason why only light fertilization of
maples is usually recommended.

HTH,

-E



--
Gardening in Lower Normandy
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Old 27-04-2015, 09:43 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?


"Emery Davis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 19:43:37 +0100, FrankB wrote:

I have a Japanese Maple which has been healthy throughout last year. But
this spring it became noticeable that a number of new top stems have
died back. I've now cut these back to main branches. I've no idea what
killed them and we haven't had that cold a winter to cause that amount
of dieback.
New growth has already started lower down the main stem, and at the
moment that looks healthy and vigorous. But I'm wondering whether the
symptoms could be early signs of verticillium wilt although there's no
sign of the new growth wilting so far?

I don't know much about Japanese Maples but recently learned that vw is
the main threat to growing them successfully.


Verticillium wilt usually happens in spring or summer depending on form:
the sudden spring wilt and death characterised by a loss of turgidity in
new growth is caused by albo-atrum IIRC, the more common long term
verticillium -- that we sometimes call the cancer of maples -- dahliae
occurs more during summer, and can be controlled by cutting back, at
least for a while. I have certainly tens of maples that suffer from this
form but survive or even thrive to some extent.

In all likelyhood what you're seeing is pseudomonas infections which is
the most common cause of winter tip dieback in maples. The bacteria
enters the soft tissue when temperatures are near freezing and causes
blackening and stem death. Sometimes lesions appear further down the
stem, often they are round but always with the characteristic blackening.

In contrast to verticillium, pseudomonas can be controlled by copper,
e.g. bordeaux mix or some other pulverized on the stems. The treatment
should be repeated every 7-14 days until all of the blackening is gone;
but of course cutting the blackened parts off is the right thing to do
once the threat of frost is over, and the copper becomes mostly
prophylactic.

Risk of pseudomonas is a main reason why only light fertilization of
maples is usually recommended.

HTH,

Thanks for that. I think Bordeaux mixture is no longer available at garden
centres in the UK sonce the EU were considering banning it 2 years ago. I
haven't seen any bottles of it around of late.

By coincidence someone else has just posted on a forum with the identical
problem to mine.

http://www.growsonyou.com/question/show/287153




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Old 29-04-2015, 06:37 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Japanese Maple problem?

On Mon, 27 Apr 2015 21:43:01 +0100, FrankB wrote:
[]
Thanks for that. I think Bordeaux mixture is no longer available at
garden centres in the UK sonce the EU were considering banning it 2
years ago. I haven't seen any bottles of it around of late.

By coincidence someone else has just posted on a forum with the
identical problem to mine.


Hi Frank, looks like it was more or less the same answer there. You can
use any copper-based solution, usually available as a powder, rather than
Bordeaux mix. It's the copper that counts. There are definitely
applicable products available.

-E



--
Gardening in Lower Normandy
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