I am in need of the following parts for my poor old Husqvarna brushcutter.
Can anyone help:

Piston & Ring
Engine Barrel
Flywheel

Colin Forsyth

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:02:02 +0100, "Colin Forsyth"
wrote:

I am in need of the following parts for my poor old Husqvarna brushcutter.
Can anyone help:

Piston & Ring
Engine Barrel
Flywheel

Colin Forsyth

You mean a Husqvarna dealer can't get them for you?

--John W. Wells
25 year owner of a 165r--that's a 240r on steroids! Hunnh, hunnh!

Sorry, yes the dealer can get them but at Significant cost ! Over
£200 for the lot. Now although I am aware that the 240R cost in the
region of £570 new, I was given the thing, so am a bit loathe to shell
out this amount of cash when I can probably buy a petrol strimmer from
B&Q for less than the repair cost of the Huskie.

Col


John W. Wells wrote in message

You mean a Husqvarna dealer can't get them for you?

On 26 Jun 2003 01:49:01 -0700,
(Col Forsyth) wrote:

Sorry, yes the dealer can get them but at Significant cost ! Over
£200 for the lot. Now although I am aware that the 240R cost in the
region of £570 new, I was given the thing, so am a bit loathe to shell
out this amount of cash when I can probably buy a petrol strimmer from
B&Q for less than the repair cost of the Huskie.

Col

Ahh, too bad. My 165r seized up about 10 years ago (way, way out of
warranty, of course). The dealer (a great guy) told me that if
cleaned all the aluminum (aluminium to you!) out of the cylinder, he'd
save me the cost of a new one.

Spent a few hours with a sharp knife and did it, but the reassembled
machine soon seized again. So the dealer took it in and did the full
job--this time under warranty, so at no additional cost to me!

When I picked it up he lectured me on the IMPORTANCE of correct
adjustment of the high-speed needle valve and basically told me to
never touch it--but to bring it in if ever I thought it needed
adjustment!

If one closes that valve enough to get SMOOTH high speed operation,
then the engine will run to lean--and seize. It must be a bit rough
at full throttle (I think they call that roughness "4-cycling"--but
how does one know what degree of roughness is just right?).

So I haven't touched it since, and these 10 years later it's been
starting and running fine!

--JWW

John W. Wells wrote in message . ..

Ahh, too bad. My 165r seized up about 10 years ago (way, way out of
warranty, of course). The dealer (a great guy) told me that if
cleaned all the aluminum (aluminium to you!) out of the cylinder, he'd
save me the cost of a new one.

Spent a few hours with a sharp knife and did it, but the reassembled
machine soon seized again. So the dealer took it in and did the full
job--this time under warranty, so at no additional cost to me!

When I picked it up he lectured me on the IMPORTANCE of correct
adjustment of the high-speed needle valve and basically told me to
never touch it--but to bring it in if ever I thought it needed
adjustment!

If one closes that valve enough to get SMOOTH high speed operation,
then the engine will run to lean--and seize. It must be a bit rough
at full throttle (I think they call that roughness "4-cycling"--but
how does one know what degree of roughness is just right?).

So I haven't touched it since, and these 10 years later it's been
starting and running fine!

--JWW


A tuned ear is prob what you need....and lots of practice. I'm sure
that the guys who set these things up are so accustomed to the sound
and feel that they can do it very quickly. I got the same lecture
from my dealer.

Anyway, my poor old Huskie that I thought was a fantastic deal (Well
it was free !) will be going to Huskie Heaven pretty soon..... :-(

Already been pricing a replacement. Although I have a very large
garden, I dont quite need the capacity of the 240R so will be getting
a 21 or 25cc McCulloch (B&Q and Homebase for £80-100)

Ho hum

CF

"Col Forsyth" wrote in message
om...

Anyway, my poor old Huskie that I thought was a fantastic deal (Well
it was free !) will be going to Huskie Heaven pretty soon..... :-(

Already been pricing a replacement. Although I have a very large
garden, I dont quite need the capacity of the 240R so will be getting
a 21 or 25cc McCulloch (B&Q and Homebase for £80-100)

Ho hum

CF

Hmmn... How do you think they get the price down to £90. As long as you're
only going to trim fine grass and you have a garden the size of a postage
stamp you'll be okay. Otherwise you may get 12 months use out of it. People
don't go and buy the cheapest televisions, white goods or cars they can
find, so why do they buy the cheapest garden machinery?

Take a trip to your local garden machinery dealer and buy something like a
Stihl or other decent make, price about £149 for a bent shaft machine.

"Alastair J. Smith" wrote in message
...

Hmmn... How do you think they get the price down to £90. As long as you're
only going to trim fine grass and you have a garden the size of a postage
stamp you'll be okay. Otherwise you may get 12 months use out of it.
People
don't go and buy the cheapest televisions, white goods or cars they can
find, so why do they buy the cheapest garden machinery?

Take a trip to your local garden machinery dealer and buy something like a
Stihl or other decent make, price about £149 for a bent shaft machine.



I see what you mean, good advice really ! When you say a bent shaft
machine, what do you mean ? Is that a flexible drive or with a gearbox ?

CF

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 14:30:00 -0700, John W. Wells
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:02:02 +0100, "Colin Forsyth"
wrote:

I am in need of the following parts for my poor old Husqvarna brushcutter.
Can anyone help:

Piston & Ring
Engine Barrel

If you mean part No.506 01 06-07
Mahle 42ZD9 stamped on the barrel

I have an A1 grade unused barrel, piston and ring, less gudgeon pin
circlips, in stock, make me an offer.

We seized a number of these when we changed to strimmers from brush
cut blades. I reckoned air resistance of the cord cut the revs and
cooling plus moved the rev range into an area that the carb operated
very weak.

Normally you adjust the carb to 4 stroke at peak revs which are a bit
higher than normal operating revs, with the engine running slower with
the strimmer head an overheating problem arose. Solved by purchase of
Stihl strimmers.

Flywheel

Colin Forsyth

You mean a Husqvarna dealer can't get them for you?

--John W. Wells
25 year owner of a 165r--that's a 240r on steroids! Hunnh, hunnh!

I've still got my 1974 165r, running, that I first used to up my
piecerate from fagging hook, disgruntled my co workers so much I was
transferred!

One time posting as I was referred to this post by my wife and do not
normally lurk here.

AJH

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 14:30:00 -0700, John W. Wells
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:02:02 +0100, "Colin Forsyth"
wrote:

I am in need of the following parts for my poor old Husqvarna brushcutter.
Can anyone help:

Piston & Ring
Engine Barrel

If you mean part No.506 01 06-07
Mahle 42ZD9 stamped on the barrel

I have an A1 grade unused barrel, piston and ring, less gudgeon pin
circlips, in stock, make me an offer.

We seized a number of these when we changed to strimmers from brush
cut blades. I reckoned air resistance of the cord cut the revs and
cooling plus moved the rev range into an area that the carb operated
very weak.

Normally you adjust the carb to 4 stroke at peak revs which are a bit
higher than normal operating revs, with the engine running slower with
the strimmer head an overheating problem arose. Solved by purchase of
Stihl strimmers.

Flywheel

Colin Forsyth

You mean a Husqvarna dealer can't get them for you?

--John W. Wells
25 year owner of a 165r--that's a 240r on steroids! Hunnh, hunnh!

I've still got my 1974 165r, running, that I first used to up my
piecerate from fagging hook, disgruntled my co workers so much I was
transferred!

One time posting as I was referred to this post by my wife and do not
normally lurk here.

AJH

"Colin Forsyth" wrote in message
...

I see what you mean, good advice really ! When you say a bent shaft
machine, what do you mean ? Is that a flexible drive or with a gearbox ?

Bent shaft means flexible drive. My advice was, better to buy a quality bent
shaft with a decent engine than one that would only tackle very light work
or not last long.

If you are doing a lot of work or thicker stuff requiring a blade then you
need a straight shaft (gearbox) but of course that then pushes the price up.

"Colin Forsyth" wrote in message
...

I see what you mean, good advice really ! When you say a bent shaft
machine, what do you mean ? Is that a flexible drive or with a gearbox ?

Bent shaft means flexible drive. My advice was, better to buy a quality bent
shaft with a decent engine than one that would only tackle very light work
or not last long.

If you are doing a lot of work or thicker stuff requiring a blade then you
need a straight shaft (gearbox) but of course that then pushes the price up.

I am looking for a cylinder Mahle 42ZD9 and piston and ring for my brushcutter Partner B380.I can make an offer.
Jean.