Manure...what depth
 

Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.

Manure...what depth
 

"osssrtvcdse" wrote in message ...
Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.

Given unlimited muck & unlimited time incorporate 2-4 inches in the bottom of the trench, fork in some more after double digging and
if it really is that well rotted apply a mulch of a couple of inches after planting.


Rod

Manure...what depth
 

If its sandy soil it will drain quickly and nutrients are leached out so you
can pile in now and keep piling on add infinitum as much muck and compost as
you can get/make ......or.you will find in a years time it will be exactly
same as today
"osssrtvcdse" wrote in message
...
Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much
should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to
near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.

Manure...what depth
 

My fathers routine was always the same, double digging in the autumn, for
the winter to break down, but we used to do one spit depth of soil out of
the ground and piled up, then the second spit depth was broken up, on this
was piled usually around 6 inches of well rotten muck, and then the next top
spit layer was placed on top of the manure. Pretty much the classic double
digging and manuering routine I thought. Bloody hard work though, and all I
used to do was the muck shovelling, from the muck heap to the trenchs and
back again.

I thought this idea had sort of fallen out of favour recently though, since
the breaking up of the sub-soil is something that really didn't need to be
done every year, if you are careful not to compress is during the year too
much, then a light dig and covering with manure to let the worms incorporate
over winter was supposedly, not only easier, but better for the soil !!!

Duncan

"osssrtvcdse" wrote in message
...
Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much
should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to
near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.

Manure...what depth
 

My fathers routine was always the same, double digging in the autumn, for
the winter to break down, but we used to do one spit depth of soil out of
the ground and piled up, then the second spit depth was broken up, on this
was piled usually around 6 inches of well rotten muck, and then the next top
spit layer was placed on top of the manure. Pretty much the classic double
digging and manuering routine I thought. Bloody hard work though, and all I
used to do was the muck shovelling, from the muck heap to the trenchs and
back again.

I thought this idea had sort of fallen out of favour recently though, since
the breaking up of the sub-soil is something that really didn't need to be
done every year, if you are careful not to compress is during the year too
much, then a light dig and covering with manure to let the worms incorporate
over winter was supposedly, not only easier, but better for the soil !!!

Duncan

"osssrtvcdse" wrote in message
...
Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much
should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to
near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.

Manure...what depth
 

"Druss" wrote in message ...
My fathers routine was always the same, double digging in the autumn, [...]

I thought this idea had sort of fallen out of favour recently though, since
the breaking up of the sub-soil is something that really didn't need to be
done every year, if you are careful not to compress is during the year too
much, then a light dig and covering with manure to let the worms incorporate
over winter was supposedly, not only easier, but better for the soil !!!

Duncan

"osssrtvcdse" wrote in message
...
Double digging ground that will eventually be borders, I have access to as
much well rotted [1] horse manure as i like. Two questions, How much
should
I add? and At what depth should it be added? I know rotovating it in would
be best, but this aint an opption, just a layer added at some
point........Its hard enough work to start with!

I had been thinking of a 2" layer about 6" from the top.

The ground, I think is a slightly sany loam, that has been compacted to
near
a concrete state.

[1] The Manure is black and the straw in most is unrecognisable, their is
little to no smell

How quickly can I plant into this, providing I make sure no manure is
touching the new root ball.


If the stuff is that well rotted, it won't do any harm at all.

I'd double-dig the first time if I could find the energy, since your
soil is so compacted; but as it's not heavy clay I wouldn't do more
than just lightly fork a truckload in every autumn thereafter. Duncan
is right about the worms: wonderful little things! Your land will
still produce more vegetables than you need, even if it's sandier than
you suggest; flowers need very little help, and indeed may even be
hindered by too much muck. Broccoli and sprouts don't like it too
soft, either: loose soil makes them produce loose heads.

(Apparently the market-gardeners outside Paris used to bring in so
much muck that it was written into their leases that if they left the
land they had to reduce it to its original level before leaving!)

Mike.