Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

Hi board,

I have a kaffir lily which has been in my sitting room for the last couple
of years.
Recently I read in a book it should be summered outdoors and watered/fed
thoroughly during this period.

So I gave it good soaking and put it in my £20 plastic "greenhouse" about a
week ago. I just had a look at it and many of the top leaves have turned
yellow, almost white, and they're very floppy. In short it looks like I've
killed it.

Any ideas on how to save it? Should I bring it back indoors? How I wish I'd
never read that book.

Thanks for any advice
Mac

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

In article ,
It's Mac wrote:

I have a kaffir lily which has been in my sitting room for the last couple
of years.

That is Clivia not Schizostylis, I assume?

Recently I read in a book it should be summered outdoors and watered/fed
thoroughly during this period.

So I gave it good soaking and put it in my £20 plastic "greenhouse" about a
week ago. I just had a look at it and many of the top leaves have turned
yellow, almost white, and they're very floppy. In short it looks like I've
killed it.

Any ideas on how to save it? Should I bring it back indoors? How I wish I'd
never read that book.

Boggle. My guess would be a combination of lush growth, overheating
and waterlogging. When the book says outside, it means just that;
those plants do perfectly well on a patio in the summer IF the
soil/compost is sufficiently free-draining, they get plenty of light,
and they are not dried out too much.

But that is a wild guess, as the symptoms are not any I have seen.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

Xref: kermit uk.rec.gardening:256034


Clivias are extremely susceptible to exposure from direct sun if they
have been kept shaded. Your plant's symptoms are completely typical
of one that has been severely burnt. Move it into a shaded position
and when new leaves start to appear, apply a general purpose
fertiliser. The damaged leaves will not recover, but you should leave
them on until there is strong re-growth. In future, give your Clivia
50% shade from March to november, thereafter allow it to cope with
full light. They do not enjoy, nor can they tolerate direct UK sun
either through glass, or directly onto their leaves.

HTH

Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

Thanks for the advice guys. It seems hard to believe it's got sunburned with
the weather I've experienced in London this week!

Nevertheless, I believe what you're saying. I's a shame I've damaged such a
lovely plant (sob), but I haven't given up on it, just a shame I've ruined
so much growth.

But once again thanks for your advice, I'll treat it more delicately in
future



"Dave Poole" wrote in message
...

Clivias are extremely susceptible to exposure from direct sun if they
have been kept shaded. Your plant's symptoms are completely typical
of one that has been severely burnt. Move it into a shaded position
and when new leaves start to appear, apply a general purpose
fertiliser. The damaged leaves will not recover, but you should leave
them on until there is strong re-growth. In future, give your Clivia
50% shade from March to november, thereafter allow it to cope with
full light. They do not enjoy, nor can they tolerate direct UK sun
either through glass, or directly onto their leaves.

HTH

Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in reply to,
Dave Poole :

Clivias are extremely susceptible to exposure from direct sun if they
have been kept shaded. Your plant's symptoms are completely typical
of one that has been severely burnt. Move it into a shaded position
and when new leaves start to appear, apply a general purpose
fertiliser. The damaged leaves will not recover, but you should leave
them on until there is strong re-growth. In future, give your Clivia
50% shade from March to november, thereafter allow it to cope with
full light. They do not enjoy, nor can they tolerate direct UK sun
either through glass, or directly onto their leaves.

Have you got Clivia miniata to flower not exposed to any direct sun?
It certainly will grow like that, but the ones I have seen have been
effectively foliage plants.

I grew some Clivia nobilis from Chilterns seed, but they are growing
INCREDIBLY slowly. What is more, they don't seem to have a root
system worth a damn. My suspicion is that they are desert plants,
and regard the UK's summers as beneath contempt. Can you offer any
advice?


Our Clivia is decades old and has, in the past when it was my mothers, been
grown in a S. facing greenhouse in full sun just 200yds from the S. coast
without problems. It is now in our NNE facing lean-to greenhouse and only
gets full sun for a couple of hours at first light.
In both cases it was/is at the back of the greenhouse away from the front
glass, and in both cases there was no burn to the leaves and it has always
flowered well.

The only problem I have with it is I have never been able to get the seeds
to germinate. :-(

--
Regards
Bob
in Runnymede, 17miles west of London, UK

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

Nick, I haven't yet sorted out my thoughts on the causal factors
around Clivia leaf burn so you'll have to give me a few hours to work
out what I want to say in the way I want to say it - if you get my
drift.

On 11 Jul 2004 20:19:55 GMT, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:

Have you got Clivia miniata to flower not exposed to any direct sun?
It certainly will grow like that, but the ones I have seen have been
effectively foliage plants.

I've grow Clivias commercially and have never failed to get them into
flower. They were always shaded from direct overhead sun and given
the light shade typical of their natural environment. Typically they
are inhabitants of deciduous woodland and often the dominant under
storey species in areas where they occur. Shade varies from light
dappled to heavy and they suffer less competition in the more shaded
areas.

In winter they can be given full light and should be gradually inured
to this from late September onwards. The triggers for flowering are
keeping them cool and relatively dry over a period of 8 - 10 weeks.
Ideally maximum day temps should remain below 16C and fall to around
5C by night. Heavy shade throughout the year will prevent flowering,
it is simply a case of providing the right amount of light at the
right time.

I grew some Clivia nobilis from Chilterns seed, but they are growing
INCREDIBLY slowly. What is more, they don't seem to have a root
system worth a damn. My suspicion is that they are desert plants,
and regard the UK's summers as beneath contempt. Can you offer any
advice?

Nick, as with Clivia miniata, they are shade loving forest plants and
far from the desert species you suspect them to be. Cultural
requirements are almost identical and nobilis is at least as vigorous
as its more widely known near relative. They may be less tolerant of
absolute lows, but apart from that they need much the same.

My guess is that the compost you have your plants in is at fault. The
following mixture, which I've used for years encourages young plants
to make a very rapid and strong root system:

1 part JI No 2
2 parts soil-less (almost any will do - I use cheap grow bag compost)
1 part perlite

This gives a moderately rich, moisture retentive, but exceptionally
well aerated and free draining compost for germinated seeds and plants
up to 12 months old. Once the seedlings have filled 9cm. pots with
roots and have leaves up to 20 cms or more long, they are ready to be
transferred to 18 cm. diameter pots containing a slightly 'stronger'
mixtu

2 parts JI No2
2 parts soil-less
1 part perlite.

The plants can be grown on for another 12 months and then transferred
to their final flowering containers of around 25 - 28cms; diameter.
the mix for mature plants is either as above or

2 parts JI no 2
1 part soilless
1 part perlite.

Additional feeding should be carried out every 10 14 days from May to
September and I must say that i've found Maxicrop to be ideal for all
types of Clivias. During the summer, established plants can be
watered heavily and appear to relish plenty of moisture, responding
with rapid growth. I have a couple of large clumps permanently
against the west facing wall of the house outside. They get overhead
shade from a large trough, but get dappled sun from late afternoon
onwards. They are hosed thoroughly every day in summer, but can
become nearly bone dry in winter despite being out of doors. Several
to many flower spikes appear almost every April.


Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November

Clivia/Kaffir Lily
 

In article ,
"Bob Hobden" writes:
|
| Our Clivia is decades old and has, in the past when it was my mothers, been
| grown in a S. facing greenhouse in full sun just 200yds from the S. coast
| without problems. It is now in our NNE facing lean-to greenhouse and only
| gets full sun for a couple of hours at first light.
| In both cases it was/is at the back of the greenhouse away from the front
| glass, and in both cases there was no burn to the leaves and it has always
| flowered well.

Thanks very much. Interesting. That rather confirms my hypothesis
that burning under glass is a heat reflection effect rather than
being a sun strength one per se.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.