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#1
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Camellia Mary Williams
This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower
so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow ? advice would be appreciated clumsy Kate |
#2
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Camellia Mary Williams
On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:09:23 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote: This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow ? advice would be appreciated clumsy Kate Camellia cuttings are best made with semi-ripe shoots of current year's growth, 3 or 4 inches long. They can be slow and reluctant to root. If there are any such shoots on these branches (and you've kept the branches in water since the accident), you could try rooting them, but I think success is unlikely as they probably won't be ripe enough yet. I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering can is the next best thing. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#3
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Camellia Mary Williams
snip
I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering can is the next best thing. Chris, thank you for all that information I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely that they will root but it is well worth a try thanks again kate |
#4
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Camellia Mary Williams
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:34:26 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote: I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely that they will root but it is well worth a try Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail. Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound (powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring if you're lucky. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#5
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Camellia Mary Williams
Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail. Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound (powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring if you're lucky. Thanks once again, have followed instructions and will be hoping for the best next Spring,it`s worth a try :-) kate |
#6
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Camellia Mary Williams
On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 17:09:23 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote: This year my husband gave me a Camellia Mary Williams, it was in flower so I left it in a the pot intending to plant it out into the garden this autumn. However clumsy old me had a fight with a kinked hose pipe and the pot containing the camellia got knocked off the wall. Three long branches got snapped off,can I use them,if I pot them up will they grow ? advice would be appreciated clumsy Kate Camellia cuttings are best made with semi-ripe shoots of current year's growth, 3 or 4 inches long. They can be slow and reluctant to root. If there are any such shoots on these branches (and you've kept the branches in water since the accident), you could try rooting them, but I think success is unlikely as they probably won't be ripe enough yet. I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering can is the next best thing. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#7
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Camellia Mary Williams
snip
I hope you are keeping the plant well watered and have fed it since being given it. They set their flower buds in late summer and early autumn for flowering next year. Dry roots, as often happens with camellias in pots in a dry summer, will cause the buds to abort or even not form at all, resulting in few or no flowers next year. A feed with a high-potash fertiliser (e.g. tomato feed) about now and in a month's time will encourage flower buds, and water it well with soft water at least weekly. If you don't have soft water (from a butt, for example), tap water with a teaspoon of vinegar per 2 gallon watering can is the next best thing. Chris, thank you for all that information I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely that they will root but it is well worth a try thanks again kate |
#8
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Camellia Mary Williams
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:34:26 GMT, Kate Morgan
wrote: I have kept the mother plant watered and will feed it right away, the broken branches were put into water and it does sound rather unlikely that they will root but it is well worth a try Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail. Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound (powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring if you're lucky. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#9
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Camellia Mary Williams
Don't root the whole branches, as they will almost certainly fail. Remove the new shoots by holding them tightly at the base and carefully prising them downwards and away from the old stem so that you get a 'heel' of the old wood. Dip the ends in rooting compound (powder or liquid) if you believe in it. Pot them up into a mixture of equal parts peat and sand or peat and perlite, give them a swish with a watering can and enclose in a polythene bag. You may need a hoop of wire to keep the bag in shape. Place on good light but out of direct sunlight. Gentle bottom heat helps. They may be rooted by next spring if you're lucky. Thanks once again, have followed instructions and will be hoping for the best next Spring,it`s worth a try :-) kate |
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