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#1
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taking seeds from bedding plants...
I knew someone years ago who used to do this every year, and I've also seen
lobelias growing through flags etc where hanging baskets the previous year had dropped seeds. What I want to know is, can I take seeds from any or all of these for sowing in spring? - if so, how and when? (I'm not being tight-fisted, it's just that these were exceptional flowering and I wondered if their progeny would be the same) Lobelia. Tagetes. Verbena. Pansy. Also, I remember that geraniums have to be taken indoors over winter, what is the best time to dig 'em up? will the first frost kill 'em stone dead or can they resist a bit of light frost? - how do I store them? - some of them are in baskets/planters etc which will be easy to shift, but the majority are planted directly in the beds.. TIA |
#2
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On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:29:59 GMT, "Phil L"
wrote: I knew someone years ago who used to do this every year, and I've also seen lobelias growing through flags etc where hanging baskets the previous year had dropped seeds. What I want to know is, can I take seeds from any or all of these for sowing in spring? - if so, how and when? Impatiens (Busy Lizzie) are fun to save seed from and unless you want particular colours, I have found no loss of vigour from seed saved year after year. The progeny will NOT be the same colours as the parents. About now, assuming you have some in flower, the seed pods form and pop when ripe. I soon learned at what stage to pick them, and get them safely in a paper bag or deep pot. Store them in a paper bag or envelope until sowing time next spring. I have found that several non-hardy plants have grown fron seed which has self sown, as the lobelia you mentioned. Impatiens do that also. Morning glory is easy to save seed from, as soon as the pods are ripe. You will learn by experience and save a lot of money, whether you are tight fisted or not. You will NOT be able to save seed from Surfinias however! It depends what you are growing this year, and remember you only really need a few seed of each to get started. Pam in Bristol |
#3
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"Phil L" wrote in message ... [...snipped...] Also, I remember that geraniums have to be taken indoors over winter, what is the best time to dig 'em up? will the first frost kill 'em stone dead or can they resist a bit of light frost? - how do I store them? - some of them are in baskets/planters etc which will be easy to shift, but the majority are planted directly in the beds.. TIA Hi Phil, I'm assuming that you are talking about the tender pelargonium rather than true geraniums. Most geraniums are UK hardy, dying back in the autumn and regrowing in the spring. If you don't have a greenhouse or conservatory, try to dry them out as follows: Best time to dig them up is before the first frost. If they get caught with a hard frost they will turn black and die, but the extent of the damage will depend on how dry they are and how heavy the frost is. Depending where in the country you live this is likely to be sept/oct. Put it in a plastic or preferably a paper bag, allowing the soil to dry out completely. Remove the dry soil as it drops off the root ball. You'll also find that any remaining flowers and leaves will fall off. Loosely tie the top of the bag and store in the shed, porch or spare room. Check the plant regularly, if the stems begin to shrivel, mist with a water spray. If there's signs of mould, open the bag, allowing any moisture to escape. In the spring, plant up, water well and cut the stems to 6ins (15cm). If you do have an unheated greenhouse, pot them up and water sparingly though the winter, trimming them in the spring. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#4
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In article , Phil L
writes Also, I remember that geraniums have to be taken indoors over winter, what is the best time to dig 'em up? will the first frost kill 'em stone dead Yes or can they resist a bit of light frost? - how do I store them? - some of them are in baskets/planters etc which will be easy to shift, but the majority are planted directly in the beds.. Less space consuming to take cuttings. They're very easy to root, and you will have younger bushier plants for next year. Don't know whether it's too late for reliable rooting. -- Kay "Do not insult the crocodile until you have crossed the river" |
#5
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"Phil L" wrote in
: What I want to know is, can I take seeds from any or all of these for sowing in spring? - if so, how and when? (I'm not being tight-fisted, it's just that these were exceptional flowering and I wondered if their progeny would be the same) Verbena. I have found that most hanging basket verbenas are really tender perennials. They survive over winter in my unheated greenhouse, though I think you might get better plants next year if you took cuttings and kept them indoors instead. Cuttings should come completely true to the parent, unlike seed which is usually pretty variable, so definitely worth a try if they are something special. Dunno about the others, sorry. I can report that the 'miniature morning glory' convolvulus sabatius and 'million bells' petunias can also be treated as slightly tender perennials and perpetuated through cuttings. Petunias need a bit more warmth / damp than the convolvulus, which will survive sub-zero temperatures if you keep it very dry. Victoria -- gardening on a north-facing hill in South-East Cornwall -- |
#6
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Phil L wrote:
Thanks all!! On reflection, I think I've left it too late for cuttings, so will salvage what geraniums (pelargoniums) i can and will store them as suggested by Nick for replanting next spring. The seeds I shall attempt to save are from the tagetes only...I don't think I'll bother with the lobelias or verbena, although I am tempted to try to keep the latter alive over winter as they were immense this year, each plant almost filling an entire hanging basket by itself! - although this could have something to do with the medium which I filled the baskets and planters with....In early spring, I went over the flagged area of the back garden with sodium chlorate, not trusting the soil adjacent to the treated area for using in the planters, I used a small amount of potting compost along with about 60% of rotted lawn cuttings from last year, which are about two foot deep in my 'compost' heap - it was soggy and took a lot of mixing etc, but the final outcome was a good texture and retained a lot of moisture, something which I think is essential for hanging baskets in particular....I've never used home made compost before as our lawn is full of dandelions and other assorted weeds and I figured that I would spend mre time weeding the hanging baskets more than the rest of the garden but it never happened - in the first few weeks I simply picked out the weedlings(!) as they sprouted and nothing came even close to getting established except the intended plants...I have 8 hangers and about 20 planters of various shapes and sizes and they all did far better than those planted in the beds at the same time...even now they are still twice the size. Thanks all, I'll keep all replies and print them off so that I can check that I'm doing it right through the coming months. |
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