Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 12:47 AM
Paddy
 
Posts: n/a
Default Newbie questin: Compost and weeds?


We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid
  #2   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 01:10 AM
Mike Lyle
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for

a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA
Paul.


I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

Mike.


  #3   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 01:55 AM
Paddy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message , Mike Lyle
writes
Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for

a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA
Paul.


I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

Mike.


Thanks, Mike. Lot of digging and sorting to do.
Paul.
--
Paul reply-to is valid
  #4   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 02:00 AM
Jaques d'Alltrades
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The message
from Paddy contains these words:

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?


You can compost any weeds - just as long as the heap gets to a high
enough temperature.

If you are going to add couch grass, ground elder or horsetails, be sure
to put them right in the middle, and get the heap going with plenty of
urine.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/
  #5   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 07:16 AM
Alan Gould
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Mike Lyle mike_lyle_uk@REMO
VETHISyahoo.co.uk writes

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.

We avoid using bindweed roots in composting, but we use a lot of nettle
and comfrey. The roots are mainly killed off by the compost heating up.
We cover our heaps to mature for 6 to 12 months after completion, so
any live roots, seeds or cutting which germinate will die off before the
compost is used. Pictures and details of our composting system can be
seen in the urg composting FAQ at:
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/organic.html
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.


  #6   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 09:53 AM
bnd777
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid




Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3 months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost


  #7   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 10:30 AM
Nick Maclaren
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Mike Lyle wrote:
Paddy wrote:
We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA


I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.


I run a cool heap, and put all of that on; effectively none survives.
As somone else says, it is a good idea to put the roots of weeds
that will regrow from the root away from the edges, but that is all
I do (and not always even that). Even if the heap is cool, the
very corrosive conditions of an active heap are inimicable to plant
roots.

With regard to pernicious weeds (e.g. nettles, goosefoot) with RIPE
seeds, I would burn them, as those seds can survive. Ragweed may
be another, but there is no problem composting it before the seeds
are ripe - they will not ripen in the compost.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
  #8   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 10:35 AM
Paddy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message , bnd777
writes

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid




Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3 months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost


So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season organically?
And what plants to put in next year to start things off, given that the
plot has been fallow for a year?
I hope I'm not asking too many questions. : )
Thanks
Paul.
--
Paul reply-to is valid
  #9   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 11:10 AM
Duncan Heenan
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid


If in doubt, get a shredder and put everything through that first. It will
kill & compost all the vegetation. However it is the seeds of weeds which
are more problematic. The best answer to that is to make the compost pile
big to produce lots of heat & cover it with a black plastic sheet for a
year. You need space an patience though.


  #10   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 11:41 AM
Martin Brown
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Nick Maclaren wrote:

In article ,
Mike Lyle wrote:

Paddy wrote:

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for
a year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be
excluded? TIA


If there is enough bulk for the heap to heat up you really can afford to
put anything on (unlikely to be so effective at this time of year). You
might get it to go though with a few cubic metres of material.

I'd recommend burning or dustbinning anything with a tap-root:
dandelions, docks. Or you could collect them in a closed plastic bag
and leave them aside for six months or so, then add them to the heap
when you're sure they're dead. You'll get a lot of seeds in your
compost heap if the allotment's been fallow for a year, so it's good
idea to try to get a good hot heap going.


I try not to add ripe seed heads of pernicious weeds like thistle,
dandelion and weed roots like bindweed or groundelder (unless they have
been dessicated in the sun for a couple of weeks).

If there's any ragwort on the plot, I'd burn or bin it: if you leave
it lying about it may well seed when your back's turned. Any nettle
or bindweed roots need to be burnt, or exposed to the weather till
they're dead: don't pop them straight in the compost heap, or they'll
grow if the heap doesn't heat up properly.



I run a cool heap, and put all of that on; effectively none survives.
As somone else says, it is a good idea to put the roots of weeds
that will regrow from the root away from the edges, but that is all
I do (and not always even that). Even if the heap is cool, the
very corrosive conditions of an active heap are inimicable to plant
roots.


Try telling that to the pumpkin plant I threw on the back of my hot
compost heap this year! I admit that after it reached a certain size I
tried to keep the hot zone away from it. But it thrived despite being
periodically bhalf buried and had a larger pumpkin than the ones I
planted in the veg patch.

With regard to pernicious weeds (e.g. nettles, goosefoot) with RIPE
seeds, I would burn them, as those seds can survive. Ragweed may
be another, but there is no problem composting it before the seeds
are ripe - they will not ripen in the compost.


Indeed. Though I have been surprised what will grow on a compost heap.
Nettles invade mine from the field behind and some buddlea prunings have
been known to root down and grow instead of rotting.

Regards,
Martin Brown


  #11   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 11:55 AM
Nick Maclaren
 
Posts: n/a
Default


In article ,
Martin Brown writes:
|
| I try not to add ripe seed heads of pernicious weeds like thistle,
| dandelion and weed roots like bindweed or groundelder (unless they have
| been dessicated in the sun for a couple of weeks).

I have no trouble with either of the bindweeds or ground elder, and
my garden is infested with them. They rarely grow on the heap.

| Try telling that to the pumpkin plant I threw on the back of my hot
| compost heap this year! I admit that after it reached a certain size I
| tried to keep the hot zone away from it. But it thrived despite being
| periodically bhalf buried and had a larger pumpkin than the ones I
| planted in the veg patch.

It isn't the hot zone so much as the anaerobic decomposition zone.
And, interestingly, cucurbits and potatoes are more resistant than
most weeds.

| Indeed. Though I have been surprised what will grow on a compost heap.
| Nettles invade mine from the field behind and some buddlea prunings have
| been known to root down and grow instead of rotting.

Oh, lots of things will grow ON heaps; very few will grow IN them,
and reach the outside.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
  #12   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2004, 04:35 PM
Jaques d'Alltrades
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I forgot to mention - uploaded two rather poor pics of the rhubarb at:

http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/roobarb1.jpg
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/roobarb2.jpg

Started this spring about the size of a man's fist.

--
Rusty
Open the creaking gate to make a horrid.squeak, then lower the foobar.
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/
  #13   Report Post  
Old 26-11-2004, 05:51 AM
Alan Gould
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Paddy
writes

So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season organically?
And what plants to put in next year to start things off, given that the
plot has been fallow for a year?

If the plot has been in fallow for a year, it will not need a lot of
preparation at present other than clearing unwanted top growth. Most of
that can be added to the compost heap. Some well matured stable or
farmyard manure could be applied now and turned in next spring, or you
could consider green manuring if you can organise the timing and space.

Depending on the size and shape of your plot, think of it in four
quarters for cropping and preparation purposes. That way you can find
out more quickly which style of management suits both you and your soil
best. I would say avoid potatoes in the first year, and plan any
overwintering [2005/6] crops carefully, but don't be afraid to
experiment a bit and make some mistakes, that's the way we all learn.

Have a look at some urg FAQs such as:
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/startingout.html
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFA...gardening.html
http://www.nugget.demon.co.uk/MetaFAQ/organic.html

and you'll find a lot of useful information on the HDRA site at:
www.hdra.org.uk

I hope I'm not asking too many questions. : )

Not at all, that's what this group is here for.
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.
  #14   Report Post  
Old 26-11-2004, 07:49 AM
Franz Heymann
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Paddy" wrote in message
...
In message , bnd777
writes

"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow

for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be

excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid




Provided you build a proper compost pile with the right mix of

stuff
especially grass cuttings and horse manure if you can get it from
stables/livery yards etc then the compost pile will get hot enough

to
destroy any weeds /seeds

Best bet is to use pallets to make at least 2 bins
layer in grass cuttings , shredded prunings ,weeds,carboard,horse
manure,shredded paper ,veg peelings etc and then pour on a few

buckets of
"night water " cover with a layer of cardboard a layer of plastic

and a
peice of old carpet plus another pallet for the top .........in 3

months
turn the lot into the empty bin , turn again in another 3 months

cover and leave for 9 months and you should have wonderful compost


So we are looking at 6 to 9 months for the compost to reach maturity

ie
the growing season after next - 2006.
Any tips as to how to prepare the plot for the next season

organically?

Find out if your council produces compost from recycled waste and
acquire as much of it as you can manage.

[snip]

Franz




  #15   Report Post  
Old 27-11-2004, 03:55 PM
bnd777
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Paddy" wrote in message
...

We are taking over an allotment plot soon that has been fallow for a
year.
Which weeds can be added to the compost heap and which must be excluded?
TIA
Paul.

--
Paul reply-to is valid




Paddy while your compost production gets underway ......phone round riding
schools/livery stables etc
It will be unusual if one of them is not delighted to have you cart away all
the horse muck you want

You can dig this straight into the soil once you have cleared the weeds
...........straw or shavings as well

If you check out the equestrian newsgroups and post on there someone will
also probably offer you piles of horse muck


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I need advice on this difficulty. Weeds weeds weeds. Miss Perspicacia Tick United Kingdom 12 18-07-2005 10:45 PM
Creeping red fescue and Weeds, A newbie that needs help. KBASSETT Gardening 1 26-08-2004 07:54 PM
ID aquatic plants please and a questin or two Roy Ponds 6 09-08-2004 08:47 AM
Use Weeds Killer to Keep Weeds Out of My Flower Garden? possibly OT Salty Thumb Gardening 0 23-06-2004 12:04 AM
Weeds...Weeds...Weeds J. Farnsworth Wallaby Gardening 4 15-03-2003 12:09 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:05 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 GardenBanter.co.uk.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Gardening"

 

Copyright © 2017