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Old 19-11-2002, 11:25 AM
dave @ stejonda
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/
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Old 19-11-2002, 11:56 AM
Nick Gray
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii


"dave @ stejonda" wrote in message
...
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint

http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/

Hi Dave,

When you say handsaw do you mean a pruning saw or a bow saw? A good sharp
bow saw should do the job as quickly and effortlessly as an angle grinder. I
don't think I'd like to use an angle grinder - something spinning that fast
at just above head level, when a large section of tree is about to land on
it could mean trouble.

Just had a look on the B&Q site - they have the Wilkinson Sword 21" bow saw
for £9.98

HTH

Cheers

Nick
http://www.ukgardening.co.uk


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Old 19-11-2002, 12:01 PM
Nick Maclaren
 
Posts: n/a
Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii


In article , "dave @ stejonda" writes:
| I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
| edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
| am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
| would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
| relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
| catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
| probably 3". What do folks think?

This is where you want a Star Wars sword/torch/whatsit :-)

More seriously, the reason that you take too long with a hand
saw is that you have an inadequate hand saw. If you get a
decent bow saw with a decent blade, then cutting through 3" of
leylandii is nothing - under a minute, even for a horizontal
cut. CONSIDERABLY faster than you will do it with an angle
grinder.

For 3" trunks, any saw size from 18" upwards will be fine.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679
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Old 19-11-2002, 12:20 PM
dave @ stejonda
 
Posts: n/a
Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

In message , Nick Gray
writes
"dave @ stejonda" wrote in message
...
I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


When you say handsaw do you mean a pruning saw or a bow saw? A good sharp
bow saw should do the job as quickly and effortlessly as an angle grinder.


Ahh, good point. I've been using a bow saw which was new last year.
Maybe I just need to replace it/blade.

I
don't think I'd like to use an angle grinder - something spinning that fast
at just above head level, when a large section of tree is about to land on
it could mean trouble.


Very true.

Just had a look on the B&Q site - they have the Wilkinson Sword 21" bow saw
for £9.98

wow! - thanks.

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/
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Old 19-11-2002, 01:11 PM
Grahame Fendle
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


What Nick said. Bow saw is by far the easiest, and I'd be worried about an
angle-grider jamming.



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Old 19-11-2002, 02:38 PM
Jon Green
 
Posts: n/a
Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


FWIW, what I think is that you'll wreck the AG disc (by gacking it up
with sap you can't completely clean off afterwards).

It'd be much cheaper to buy the right tool (sharp saw) for the job than
to replace the disc.

Failing that, consider hiring a chainsaw from a local supplier. Don't
use HSS (or similar), use an agri hire company; much cheaper.


Jon (who still lurks here occasionally)
--
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Old 19-11-2002, 02:48 PM
Andrew
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

I have an urgent need to decrease to ~7ft a line of Leylandii along one
edge of my garden. Using a handsaw is good for me but takes too long. I
am not prepared to spend money on a chainsaw for this single use. What
would be the issues in using an angle-grinder? The sap is obviously
relatively viscous and non-seepy at the moment so I wouldn't expect
catching from that to be a problem. The maximum trunk diameter is
probably 3". What do folks think?


Three inches -- pah!? A new bow saw blade will be through that in 30
seconds, and with an assistant pulling the trunk away from the saw cut
witha rope you won't even need to cut a "kerf" out first to stop it
binding. Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been trained
how to use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially don't use one
up a ladder...
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Old 19-11-2002, 04:22 PM
William Tasso
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

Xref: 127.0.0.1 uk.rec.gardening:162315

Andrew wrote:
Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been
trained how to use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially
don't use one up a ladder...


Gets my vote - Really.

--
William Tasso


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Old 19-11-2002, 04:31 PM
dave @ stejonda
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

In message , Andrew
writes

Three inches -- pah!? A new bow saw blade will be through that in 30
seconds, and with an assistant pulling the trunk away from the saw cut
witha rope you won't even need to cut a "kerf" out first to stop it
binding.


I fact whilst the main trunks were 3" this ~50ft row of trees had been
repeatedly hacked over the years so that the actual width of the row was
(still is what's left) around 8ft (yes, eight feet!) along most of it.
I've now done the deed.
I had no assistant - no time to arrange one and SO busy working so did
have to contend with some binding. Long-handled loppers did for the
smaller stuff quite adequately. "kerf"? wotsat? - no time for fine
details like that!!!

Please, please don't hire a chainsaw unless you've been trained how to
use it, even to drop little leylandii. Especially don't use one up a
ladder...


No, I'm glad I stayed away from power for that little job.

Incidentally, the rush was that the house next door, in the garden of
which this row of terror was, is rented. The existing tenant died
recently and having been ill for quite some time (and therefore having
been unable, despite repeated promises, to sort the trees) I was advised
this morning off-the record by an agent for the lessors that rather than
trying to get the landowner to do something it would be best if I hacked
them before the new tenants moved in - which could be tomorrow. I hope
they'll be happy with my work, it can only benefit them as well (I'm
aware this is a self-serving argument).

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/
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Old 19-11-2002, 08:06 PM
DaveDay34
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

--
dave @ stejonda


Dave, I don't think there is much you can do. Some plants can be sprayed with
a hormone treatment which slows down growth. I don't know the name of the
hormone/chemical but the product most often seen in GC's goes under the trade
name of Cutlass. It's only suitable for certain plants, and I think it's not
suitable for leylandii. You can maybe check, but I think you're out of luck,
unless anyone else has any ideas. Personally I'd have the things out
completely as they're such a pain to keep looking tidy and managable. Sorry I
don't have netter news.

Dave.


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Old 19-11-2002, 08:44 PM
dave @ stejonda
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

In message , DaveDay34
writes
Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

Dave, I don't think there is much you can do. Some plants can be
sprayed with a hormone treatment which slows down growth. I don't know
the name of the hormone/chemical but the product most often seen in
GC's goes under the trade name of Cutlass. It's only suitable for
certain plants, and I think it's not suitable for leylandii. You can
maybe check, but I think you're out of luck, unless anyone else has any
ideas. Personally I'd have the things out completely as they're such a
pain to keep looking tidy and managable. Sorry I don't have netter news.


That's Ok Dave, thanks for the thought. Cutlass (heh thinks... if it's
not suitable for leylandii maybe it would poison them :~ ) would
presumably need reapplying periodically and on someone else's trees (as
they will be) I don't think I could really do that. Hopefully I can
establish good relations with the new neighbours and convince them of
the need to get rid of them in toto.

--
dave @ stejonda

calculate your ecological footprint http://www.lead.org/leadnet/footprint/
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Old 19-11-2002, 08:55 PM
Chris French and Helen Johnson
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

In message , "dave @ stejonda"
writes
In message , Andrew
writes

Re leylandii:


Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

No need to worry, they won't (or shouldn't) resprout. Unlike deciduous
trees which will normally resprout in such situations (hence coppicing)
conifers don't.

You can leave the stumps if you are happy to leave them , or dig them
out.
--
Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds
urg Suppliers and References FAQ:
http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html
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Old 19-11-2002, 09:25 PM
Jon Green
 
Posts: n/a
Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

"dave @ stejonda" wrote:

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.


A leylandii-hating cynic might think, "Hammer copper nails through the
trunks, wait for them to peg out, then chop 'em off at ground level."


Jon
--
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Old 19-11-2002, 09:26 PM
david
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

If you've cut them hard back then the chances of them re sprouting is almost
non existent.

--
David Hill
Abacus Nurseries
www.abacus-nurseries.co.uk


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Old 19-11-2002, 10:38 PM
Nick Maclaren
 
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Default using an angle-grinder to cut down live Leylandii

In article ,
Chris French and Helen Johnson wrote:
In message , "dave @ stejonda"
writes

Now, can anyone suggest what I might do to the things tonight to stop
them re-sprouting please - something which won't spread through the
soil.

No need to worry, they won't (or shouldn't) resprout. Unlike deciduous
trees which will normally resprout in such situations (hence coppicing)
conifers don't.


ObPedant: except for the coast redwood and Cretan cypress, which do.
I don't know of any others that do reliably, but I have seen the odd
sprout from old wood on my Korean fir and a few others. Yews are not
conifers, of course.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679
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